Trix TTR just keep on going

[Il Grifone]

Some more Trix, Trix Express this time.

 

 

Baureihe 80 and wagon.

 

 

Two more wagons The van was also in the Rivarossi catalogue.

 

 

Short Trix open and, to end up, the dustcart - a Lima refuse wagon (or so I believe it to be!)

 

The track is Formoway with the sleepers spaced out to 10mm. Trix will not run on this (code 100).

[siltec]

It has been suggested that I start a Trix thread, so here we are. I run a Hornby Dublo 3 track layout and if you have ever run one, you will know where the moniker came from. Anyway back to the plot. By chance I bought a load of Trix TTR with some HD stuff I wanted. Trouble was, it fascinated me by its simplicity. It's like a small old Hornby, Brim etc. O gauge system, although not so colourful and without the tin-plate buildings or the size. Not very similar really, but you probably get my drift. Then on the other hand the 14V AC electric motor is so much more complicated in its operation than the simple 12V DC we are all use today, including my Dublo.

That's enough waffle for now, so here's a few photo's. 1. A pre war 040 tank LNER goods. 2. A late 1955ish 040 tender BR goods. 3. A pair of pre war LNER suburban 4 wheel coaches. Eat your heart out Hornby with them there new fancy plastic versions. Sad thing is, I prefer mine even if the window have fell down. ( On the to-do list, haven’t owned them long, honest.)

So anyone else out there with my affliction.

I recently acquired a powered 0-4-0 Trix chassis off ebay, It works but is missing the power pickup for the wheels. Looking at your photo I assume it is between the wheels behind the part of the body coming down. I also bought some old trix track. Pretty good stuff. First time I set up the oval just cleaned the top of the running and centre rail and it all worked. No cleaning between track pieces but circuit was complete. I am working on 3 rail and the assorted chassis I had to try were all DIY conversions, and all ran.

My three rail experimentation can be seen at

 

http://threerail.tripod.com/

 

I reckon a few saw cuts and the Trix track will make an excellent 3 rail auto loop. I think I will also have a go at seeing how the Trix Twin set up works.

[damndublo]

I recently acquired a powered 0-4-0 Trix chassis off ebay, It works but is missing the power pickup for the wheels. Looking at your photo I assume it is between the wheels behind the part of the body coming down. I also bought some old trix track. Pretty good stuff. First time I set up the oval just cleaned the top of the running and centre rail and it all worked. No cleaning between track pieces but circuit was complete. I am working on 3 rail and the assorted chassis I had to try were all DIY conversions, and all ran.

My three rail experimentation can be seen at

 

http://threerail.tripod.com/

 

I reckon a few saw cuts and the Trix track will make an excellent 3 rail auto loop. I think I will also have a go at seeing how the Trix Twin set up works.

There should be a copper strip riveted between the wheels. The ends are slightly turned down which allows the pick-ups to be sprung lightly when clamped in place by the bar. The pick-ups at the front and rear of the wheels differ between AC and DC on the 040 chassis. The DC version has a less angled holder than AC. If a photo helps,I've posted a couple. The first one is pre war chassis that has been dismantled. The second is complete. Both are AC. Remember that an AC loco is 14V and can't reverse with a standard transformer, although will run happily on 12V DC in one direction. Or have you got a DC chassis anyway?

 

Brian

[sagaguy]

I think that if you have an old H&M Powermaster,the green boost button should operate the reverse relay.

 

Ray.

[Il Grifone]

I convert mine to DC by rewiring them with four diodes to arrange that the field current always flows the same way. They then reverse like any other DC motor.

 

The twin system is quite straightforward, All three rails are insulated from each other and the locos are arranged to pickup from one or other running rail and return via the common centre rail return (The opposite to Dublo.) Like 2 rail return loops require special wiring. It is possible to make one train normal 2 rail and the other uses the centre rail and one of the running rails as normal Trix.

 

The reversing relay is quite complicated and has the disadvantage of never being sure which way the train will run. It operates on a forward - neutral - reverse - neutral - forward sequence each time the supply is cut off (below about 4V when the relay cuts out) Each time it re-energises the reverser moves on one step. The motor has to be set (brush tension) to stop when the track voltage is less than about 6V. This means that any loss of contact operates the reverser. There is more info on the TTRCA website.

 

The rails are plated steel and harsh abrasives should be avoided. Minor rust can be removed with a brass brush.

 

Märklin reversers operate with a high voltage pulse (about 20V) which operates a two state relay. This feeds current to one or other of two opposed field windings (and only needs two diodes!).

[siltec]

There should be a copper strip riveted between the wheels. The ends are slightly turned down which allows the pick-ups to be sprung lightly when clamped in place by the bar. The pick-ups at the front and rear of the wheels differ between AC and DC on the 040 chassis. The DC version has a less angled holder than AC. If a photo helps,I've posted a couple. The first one is pre war chassis that has been dismantled. The second is complete. Both are AC. Remember that an AC loco is 14V and can't reverse with a standard transformer, although will run happily on 12V DC in one direction. Or have you got a DC chassis anyway?

 

Brian

 

Thanks for that reply. The pictures are really useful, thanks. I assume !have a 12V DC chassis as there are no lumps sticking out. It should not be too difficult to fit a centre collector.

 

There is a toy auction at Tennants, Leyburn, Yorkshire today. I went up yesterday to have a look and there was some TT on sale. First time I have had a chance to have a good look and to be honest I was surprised to find the direct track pick ups. I assumed it was two wheels and a centre collector. Those I looked at were obviously AC. I assume that the bits on the side are the auto reverser.

 

My chassis has no pick ups. What I do like though is the non worm drive and the gearing to both axles. Wheels are much to big for genuine scale but I intend hiding it under a card tram body so no problem. I assume the direct rack collection is used instead of having rubbing collectors on the wheels. Initially as well as the centre collector I would need to make a rubbing connector for the wheels insulated from the chassis, but am now wondering whether to try track collectors both side which could look like tram magnetic track brakes.

 

Interestingly after Leyburn I went to Sedburgh and looking in one of the SH bookshops found an old model railway book with good line drawings of the Trix Twin locos. As most of the book was of little interest I did not buy it - so if anyone is really interested it is up in Sedburgh in the Tourist Office come bookshop.

 

While not a Trix enthusiast I do like the old style track and the interesting chassis.

[Il Grifone]

The two caps at the side house the motor brushes. The reverser is the complicated gubbins which occupies the entire cab. Each time the coil energises, the gearing shifts the rotary switch above the brush gear a quarter turn.

DC models have a permanent magnet (as opposed to the AC a field wound electromagnet). This usually consists of a conventional motor (not unlike the Tri-ang X-04) but there are examples where the field winding has been replaced with a permanent magnet. AFAIK these are confined to the American locos intended for export. A few of these made it to the home market - I have one - and are conventional 2 rail with 'scale' flanges.

 

The track pickups are reversible so that either running rail can be used for pickup. I assume they were designed like this for ease of use and also lead and mazak are not the best materials for current collection.

 

One problem with Trix track (apart from the tram type radii) is the pointwork is intended for their steamroller wheels and will not accept anything else, (with the possible exception of early Tri-ang?). There are universal points available in the fibre based range, but unfortunately these attract collector's attention and prices

[siltec]

I tried out my 3 rail coversions on Trix track and they all ran OK, but there were no points! I have some so next time I set it up I will see what happens. Thanks for the warning though.

 

The 'tram radii' are fine for my needs, model trams.

 

The Trix chassis I have has a DC motor in a cylindrical case. Drive is from a pinion on the motor shaft to a contrate gear and then gear reduction to both wheels. No worm. It is obviously an early model of the modern motor type as it is pretty big. However for my tram models loosely based on the Dearne and District tramway it is fine, even if the wheel diameters are a bit OTT.

[sagaguy]

The two caps at the side house the motor brushes. The reverser is the complicated gubbins which occupies the entire cab. Each time the coil energises, the gearing shifts the rotary switch above the brush gear a quarter turn.

DC models have a permanent magnet (as opposed to the AC a field wound electromagnet). This usually consists of a conventional motor (not unlike the Tri-ang X-04) but there are examples where the field winding has been replaced with a permanent magnet. AFAIK these are confined to the American locos intended for export. A few of these made it to the home market - I have one - and are conventional 2 rail with 'scale' flanges.

 

 

 

 

The Southgate hobbyshop used to offer dc conversions to 14v AC locos to 12v DC by fitting a permanent magnet in place of the field coil in the early 1960`s.

Oh for shops like that now.

 

Ray.

[APOLLO]

I have several old Trix lit semaphore signals my brother gave me back in the late 70's. They originally had one bulb in the base, light was conducted to the arms via a clear plastic tube. I removed this (easy, a clip on back plate) and fitted very small lamps running on 9V. Just the job.

 

 

Brit15

[sagaguy]

I`ve got a couple of these,excellent signals,slightly overscale but again,you can`t buy these anymore.Shame!!

 

Ray.

[damndublo]

I tried out my 3 rail coversions on Trix track and they all ran OK, but there were no points! I have some so next time I set it up I will see what happens. Thanks for the warning though.

 

The 'tram radii' are fine for my needs, model trams.

 

The Trix chassis I have has a DC motor in a cylindrical case. Drive is from a pinion on the motor shaft to a contrate gear and then gear reduction to both wheels. No worm. It is obviously an early model of the modern motor type as it is pretty big. However for my tram models loosely based on the Dearne and District tramway it is fine, even if the wheel diameters are a bit OTT.

Went and had a look at your trams. Good stuff. Like you say, simple designs. I think this simpleness is one of the reasons Trix TTR appeals to me. Haven't tried card modelling yet as I need the other components from the tatty coaches that I make my own overlays for, so it's not worth the effort and I'm never short of another project. Just made some platforms and ramps in Trix style from wood. Now working on a set of LNER Tourist coaches OL's to cover some very rough, but cheaply bought Trix Blood and Custard bogie stock. Trix aficionados will probably baulk at the previous statement. But as I run everything in my collection and very little is perfect, I really don't care. Trouble is, I'm also working on some LNER Silver Jubilee OL's for my Dublo coaches at the same time.

So many projects.....So little time.

[siltec]

Well I have got in Trix in a bigger way than expected. What happens when you leave a low bid at an auction and then win. So now I have a Trix Twin cadet set, two in fact. One with two locos the other with one. I think they have 12V DC motors rather than the old AC. Rolling stock and plenty of track but no controllers. 

At least I might find out how the twin system works in practice.

Must admit that three rail is looking more fun than the replication of every rivet and blade of grass which seems to dominate the model rail scene these days.

[Il Grifone]

Well I have got in Trix in a bigger way than expected. What happens when you leave a low bid at an auction and then win. So now I have a Trix Twin cadet set, two in fact. One with two locos the other with one. I think they have 12V DC motors rather than the old AC. Rolling stock and plenty of track but no controllers. 

At least I might find out how the twin system works in practice.

Must admit that three rail is looking more fun than the replication of every rivet and blade of grass which seems to dominate the model rail scene these days.

 

I believe the Cadet motors are actually 6V DC. Speed is not lacking anyway.

 

From what I remember there were two Cadet sets Loco + 2 non-corridor 'shortie' coaches and Loco + wagons* (tank and 3 plank) + brake van. Some had a hand cranked generator to provide power. The loco body is always warped to a greater of lesser degree (cellulose acetate strikes again!).

 

These have plain axleguards without the stampings representing springs and axlebox fitted to the full price range.

 

The Twin system is very effective - cunning wiring allows two rail and Trix locos to run together under independent control.

[5050]

Plenty of Trix adverts available too!

 

I remember the Trix Junior set where you had to wind a crank on a small generator to create current to get the train moving.  After a couple of minutes I was absolutely knackered!  I doubt they sold many!

 

Some years ago at our exhibition I had a Trix Twin layout next to my P4 layout.  Deliberate action on the part of the organiser was the conclusion.

 

Needless to say both worked perfectly.

 

Until I had a go on the TT layout that is..................................................

[damndublo]

That's how I got into Trix. I found some HD bits on ebay that I had wanted and it included a boxed black 0-4-0, three B&C coaches, track and a one piece Trix transformer/controller. I was the only bidder as it was listed in the wrong place and probably didn't get good viewing. I paid less including postage, than the HD platform extension was worth.... which was the item I was after in the lot. I had intended to sell the Trix bits on. Unfortunately I then managed to pick up an immaculate 0-4-0 freight set. Even the box was in pristine condition. Paid just over £26 including postage. The rot had really set in at that point. Never mind.

 

Brian

[5050]

Peco couplings were mentioned above.  Whilst trawling through the '54 MRN I found this.  It would seem someone at Trix had been a bit naughty?

[davknigh]

There will be some Trix Twin running at the Brampton Train Show this weekend if any of you happen to be near Brampton Ontario http://bramptonmodelrailroadshow.com/

 

Cheers,

 

David

[sagaguy]

Oh yes,Trix thought they`d get away with it seeing as Peco was a small company.I think he got a royalty  for every coupling, the same with Meccano.Peco was probably founded on these payments.A better coupling i have yet to see,simple & when correctly adjusted uncoupled every time on the uncoupling rails.I know some folk had trouble with them uncoupling at the wrong time but again,not if the were adjusted correctly,the drop arm should be 1/32" above the rail.

 

   Ray.

[Il Grifone]

It's also important that the coupling height is correct. I set mine using a Dublo wagon with pristine couplings, but the correct height is around 10mm (the same as Kadee!). The actual coupling hook should be vertical.

 

the 'spike' on TTR couplings is to couple with pre-war Trix Twin or Trix Express loop couplings but leaves rather a large space between vehicles.

 

Owing to their coarse wheels the uncoupling dropper on Trix (and Playcraft who used the same type of coupling later on (I'm not sure of the Patent rights on this one) is nearer to the centre of the track. Thus they will couple quite satisfactorily, but uncoupling needs the specific rail (or Peco ramp).

[sagaguy]

A friend many years ago gave a bag of Dublo/Trix like couplings with a larger lug on top similar to the later HD metal couplings.It turned out that they were Playcraft which used them.I wonder how they got round the patent situation?

[Il Grifone]

A friend many years ago gave a bag of Dublo/Trix like couplings with a larger lug on top similar to the later HD metal couplings.It turned out that they were Playcraft which used them.I wonder how they got round the patent situation?

 

Possibly it had expired after 20 years? (How long did they last back then?) or maybe, without the help of Meccano Ltd., it wasn't worth pursuing?