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Manual Point Control


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Thanks for all the info Gormo. So helpful! Got some searching to do now to locate all the bits and pieces... starting with the garden centre just down the road!

 

John. Thanks for that link... which is useful too for getting an idea about costs... compared to 'straightforward' point motors.

Would that Victorian modeler happen to be: http://vrwv.blogspot...ls-and-eye.html

 

I'm considering using this method myself.

The GEM Mercontrol system has been available for many years and the parts are available now from Lytchet Manor Models, they can be used to save scratch building the parts.

 

http://www.lytchettm...mercontrol.html

 

Hi Alan,John &Alx,

The link for the Victorian modeller is not that shown above........I`ll have to do some serious back tracking to find him........?????

There is no doubt that the Mercontrol system is a great way to go , however, I have the time and the equipment to scratch build my own parts. I don`t have unlimited funds for my hobby so anything I can do to reduce costs is a bonus and to top it off, when you assemble this system from scratch it is a source of great satisfaction.

Good luck with the search Alan.........it`s just a matter of finding what fits with what and going for it. In Australia we have retail outlets that we call $2 shops. They carry a wide range of items all very cheap and usually from China. I bought my hinges from a $2 dollar shop.......$2.50 for a Pk of 2 hinges which will do 4 points for me. The cable also came from that shop.....it was originally a drain unblocker.......25 feet of cable in it for $6.50. I already have stacks of screws etc. and parts from a previous layout. All the aluminium parts and wire came from our big hardware chain.

I may do another video showing parts...........all the best guys........Cheers .......Gormo

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi gormo :)

 

What a great idea mate !!

 

I've just recently started building my first layout, and although I'm going down the DCC route for control of the trains, the layout itself isn't that big ....... and the more I think about it, the more I reckon DCC controlled point motors might be "over egging the pudding" ....... both operationally and from a cost point of view.

 

I also kind of like the idea of controlling the points myself ....... "Hand of Pud" so to speak !!

 

Good vids by the way ....... very easy to follow what you've got going there ....... nice one !!

 

Definitely worth more thinking about ........ might give this a try on Riverside Cement.

 

 

Cheers !!

 

Simon. :good:

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Here's a couple of pics of the underside of boards using a similar system. You can see the rods coming off the lever frame and going to the various points via cranks, The aluminium colour rectangles do the job of Gormo's hinges and are made from curtain track, the black rectangles are microswitches for the frog polarity., wired up in the grovenor sidings pic, ready for wiring in the loco yard pic. The rods and cranks I used are for model aircraft control and are cheaper than point motors but DIy as Gormo has done saves a bit more.

Regards

Keith

post-3169-0-40702100-1334529279_thumb.jpg

post-3169-0-29607100-1334529307_thumb.jpg

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The clevis that clips onto the cranks is supplied by the model aircraft shop, the rods come about 9 inch long with one end threaded to fit the clevis, if a rod is needed shorter than supplied I usually solder the unthreaded end into the clevis. Sometimes I have cut a thread on the end but the steel can be a bit hard and doesn't do the die any good. Where the rod needs to be longer I just use a brass terminal block from a chocolate strip, and put the two rods through it. You can see a couple of those in the bottom pic, with and without the plastic part. I used the old GEM lever frames for these but practically any lever frame will do. Here's the top view of one of them.

post-3169-0-94832600-1334607001.jpg

post-3169-0-19699800-1334607019.jpg

 

Regards

Keith

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Chocolate strip or chocolate block is the colloquial term for the terminal blocks sold in every DIY and lots of other places with 10 or a dozen twin brass screw terminals in a soft plastic moulding which can be cut to length. Originally the plastic was almost always brown, hence the name, now they are usually sort of translucent white. See http://www.maplin.co.uk/terminal-blocks-42654

Regards

Keith

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Hi gormo :)

 

What a great idea mate !!

 

I've just recently started building my first layout, and although I'm going down the DCC route for control of the trains, the layout itself isn't that big ....... and the more I think about it, the more I reckon DCC controlled point motors might be "over egging the pudding" ....... both operationally and from a cost point of view.

 

I also kind of like the idea of controlling the points myself ....... "Hand of Pud" so to speak !!

 

Good vids by the way ....... very easy to follow what you've got going there ....... nice one !!

 

Definitely worth more thinking about ........ might give this a try on Riverside Cement.

 

 

Cheers !!

 

Simon. :good:

Hi Simon

I have been off the radar for a short while and also I thought this topic had gone to sleep.........oh well...... you can never assume such things.

I agree with you about operating the points yourself........there is something quite satisfying and prototypical about it. I have also found that one can avoid the harsh throw of some electrical systems by going manual and thereby take some strain off the fragile connections on the tie bars.............

I am glad you enjoyed the videos........Cheers Gormo

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Hi Keith and Alan,

On the subject of rods.............I noticed the rods shown above are also quite similar to push bike spokes. I have experimented with spokes. They are quite rigid, they have a thread on one end and they vary in length depending on the size of wheel.

In Australia , we are allowed to put out unwanted rubbish of many and varied types, on our verge , about twice yearly.

The local council then comes around and takes it away. Quite often there are unwanted bicycles put out and about.........so there is an opportunity for some free point rods going begging................Does this happen in the UK.....????????

I quite often find myself looking at rejected household items and wondering if they could be useful for my railway..........for example?????.........old or damaged and unwanted umbrellas have very useful struts that would be quite handy for a model railway...........so guys ........let`s recycle and re-use and save the planet at the same time.

 

Cheers Gormo

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Hi Simon

I have been off the radar for a short while and also I thought this topic had gone to sleep.........oh well...... you can never assume such things.

I agree with you about operating the points yourself........there is something quite satisfying and prototypical about it. I have also found that one can avoid the harsh throw of some electrical systems by going manual and thereby take some strain off the fragile connections on the tie bars.............

I am glad you enjoyed the videos........Cheers Gormo

 

Good topics never go to sleep ...... they just lie there ....... waiting for some Pudding or other to root them out !! :read:

 

 

Cheers. !!

 

Simon. :)

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Here is a great reason for manual point control

 

post-1131-0-83441700-1335389917_thumb.jpg

 

The layout is Tower Pier and was at the Watford Finescale show this year, controlling trains from your own signal box. Though the levers on this layout may be electrical and not mechanical. Super layout well worth going to a show just to see it.

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Way to go Hayfield...!!!!!!

What a brilliant idea............creating a miniature signal box for point levers. What an enhancement to a control panel..........I am impressed........thanks for the pic.

Cheers Gormo

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Hi Gra

I would enjoy having a beer or three with you........so if you get to Sydney........give me a call.....

I understand where you are coming from in relation to the cost of our hobby. I don`t have unlimited funds to use on model railway gear .........so I use and buy good second hand items that turn up. I have a large quantity of track that I bought second hand and in addition I am recycling track from a previous layout. Most of my rolling stock dates from the 1980`s & 1990`s and it is not DCC.

What the heck.....I don`t care.......it looks good going around the track and if you have a layout that requires a certain degree of grey matter to operate..........well it`s never boring.

I just had a thought regarding point levers.........a system that has been around for a long time is the sliding switch method.

Instead of using a lever to throw the point........use a sliding switch with a hole drilled through it`s plastic lever. Connect a wire to the hole and you have a very cheap lever........I`ll see if I can post a pic or a link to explain better.........

 

Cheers Gormo

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Hi Cypher

Sorry I didn`t reply from YouTube........because I really only use it to upload vids for this forum.........most of the Q & A happens on this forum.......so sorry about that.

To answer your question.......I made the levers from aluminium flat bar. If you take a look at the video above ( Manual Point Control III ), on this page,, it shows you the materials that have been used for this system.

Each lever is 60mm long and starts out as a rectangular piece. I then drill it and file it and shape it to achieve the levers you have seen. It sounds difficult, but once you develop a method, it turns into a production line. I hope this answers your question .

 

Cheers Gormo

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Hi Grastairs

I agree about the feel of levers. My prototype out in the shed, even though it`s still in it`s rough state, feels good to use and

works reliably. There is never any doubt as to wether the points blades have shifted all way and or if they have made proper contact.

Good luck with the bits and bobs..............Goodnight all................Cheers Gormo

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Hi gormo.. it's me again!

 

Just came across this product on another modelling web site and wondered if you knew about it... and whether you think it could be incorporated into your method in place of the cranks etc. It was referred to in a post by a chap who'd used the rods for point control (in N Gauge) but his explanation of how he linked it to the tie bar at one end and a lever at the other wasn't exactly clear. No photos either, which was a shame. So I'm asking the maestro... do you think it has potential? I understand it's mainly used by aircraft modellers who fly their machines.

 

http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GoldnRodContent.htm

 

Cheers for your thoughts

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Hi gormo.. it's me again!

 

Just came across this product on another modelling web site and wondered if you knew about it... and whether you think it could be incorporated into your method in place of the cranks etc. It was referred to in a post by a chap who'd used the rods for point control (in N Gauge) but his explanation of how he linked it to the tie bar at one end and a lever at the other wasn't exactly clear. No photos either, which was a shame. So I'm asking the maestro... do you think it has potential? I understand it's mainly used by aircraft modellers who fly their machines.

 

http://www.sullivanp...nRodContent.htm

 

Cheers for your thoughts

Hi Alan

I assume you mean the flexible cable and clevis system shown on the link. There is certainly loads of potential with those aircraft hardware systems. The flexible cable could "possibly" eliminate bell cranks and therefore simplify the whole process. I would seek advice from the retailer and also a little demonstration so that you could see what limits the product might have. In other words.......how far can you bend it before it won`t work?????

I like the idea of being able to cut the cable to length and then screw in a clevis to suit............The only issue I would have with the system as you`ve probably already guessed .........is the price.??? I insert a link here to give an example http://www.sullivanproducts.com/LocateProductsMainFrame.htm

 

Cheers Gormo

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Hi Gormo, and thanks for replying so quickly... with what I feel is a positive response... to me it is anyway, as I'm not much of a diyer when it comes rods and cranks and such! The price I've come across is £6.00 a pair... although my local store 'seems' to have a price of £4.50, so I'll be paying them a visit shortly and (taking your sensible advice!) asking for a demo. Having just totted up the cost for 20+ cobalts, and all that goes with them, I'm as keen as mustard to go 'manual'!

 

Cheers for now

Alan

 

Oh, and Keith... love to know whether you give 'em a try!

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