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West Kirby Town: narrow gauge may be coming to town.


Dmudriver
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Hi all.

 

No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy - so I've read somewhere.  Well it's like that with one of the magnets.  The first one in fact, which I put before the 2 sidings on the near side of the station.  The placing was good in theory (one magnet for a fan of sidings) and for a couple of tests it was OK but in cold-blooded operation it doesn't work!  It's fine for the straight road, but when propelling uncoupled bogie vehicles  across the crossover - and over an s-bend - the loop slips down the side of the hook and latch and then one item of stock derails as the track straightens out due to the side pressure.  I think it's to do with the length of the overhang and the consequent amount of swing on a bend.  As far as I can work out, the Dinghams were designed for shorter wheelbase stock which would have less outswing.

 

So, .... I've lifted that magnet and I'm putting one at the beginning of each siding so that uncoupling is followed by a straight push.  That will work - as it does in the platforms and the straight siding.  Tomorrow's job - or one of them!!

 

I've also got a challenge with the Heljan 37.  The buffer beam is recessed behind the bodywork and the buffers are attached to the body so the heads are about 15mm from the beam, rather than the 12.5mm the Dingham coupling instructions specify.  I think I can sort it, though, by setting the hook 2 to 2.5mm out from the beam.  Another job for tomorrow!!  I've fitted the couplings to the 25 and they've worked satisfactorily - I'll try and give them a proper in service test tomorrow.

 

I'll report back on that shortly.  More soon.

 

Rod

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Rod I enjoyed the 2 recent videos err well actually I kept watching a few more too, very believable. It's been a while since I've been to West Kirby or for that matter taken the Southport line up past the airfield at Woodvale, ahh memories.

Oh God just done the sums I was in my teens then and I'm now in my early 70's.  :O  :jester:

 

Regards

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Hi all.

 

I've changed the thread title!!  As it says, the Dinghams are working well!!  They're now fitted to the 25 and the 37 and have been tested in all the situations in which they will be used.  And I'm satisfied!!!!

 

The 25 was pretty easy: no alterations to the loco to make.  The 37 was a bit more difficult, as I mentioned in my last post.

 

With the hooks for the 37, I added a short bar in the first hole which is normally behind the buffer beam.  The pic shows what I mean:

 

post-7571-0-73056100-1508705222_thumb.jpg

 

There are a couple of stops behind the hook on all the couplings: these normally press up against the buffer beam and which is how they are fitted to everything except the 37.  Because that buffer beam is set back, I've added a short piece of wire 2 - 2.5mm back - as in the top left and the inner right.  This wire now rests against the buffer beam and is the perfect distance!!

 

Comparing the 2 hooks and loops on the right, the inner one (for the 37) has the dropper arm bent differently.  This is because, left as designed (on the right) it caught on the bar between the snowploughs and did not work well at all.  The new bend enables it to, with a bit of a slot filed out of the buffer beam.  All in all, quite simple - and effective.

 

I've now got to put some of the plumbing back on the 37's buffer beam - and a snow plough that broke off! - and that's it for the locos.  Just the GUV and a van to fit now which should be relatively simple and I can start playing/operating properly again.

 

More soon.

 

Rod

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Love that 8min video - always happy to see more if you care to make them :good: Thank you

I'll see what I can do, bcnPete.  It might be two or three weeks and I'l try and think of some different viewpoints.

 

Glad you liked it, though.

 

Rod

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Hi all.

 

The Dingham fitting is complete - apart from 1 van which needs painting first.  I've done a bit of "proper" running using the Dingham fitted stock, including uncoupling in the fiddle yard and, apart from one problem, it's all fine.

 

That one problem was a train becoming uncoupled, in both directions at the same point on the layout - where the tracks enter/leave the shed on to the outside section.  I found that what was happening was that, in all the wet weather, the baseboard had swelled a bit (even though it's meant to be marine ply) and had lifted from the bearer below, creating a hump.  Exactly why the couplings came uncoupled there, I'm not sure, although the loops on the Dingham couplings were slightly high.  However, a few long screws through the board into the bearer has got it nice and flat again and stock runs over it with no problem.  

 

I just love the ease of coupling/uncoupling!!!

 

Next job was to reallocate some functions on my 08 to get them consistent with the rest of my stock (eg. double horn on F2, single on F3) - so much easier than referring to crib sheets all the time.

 

So, onto a new chapter which I've decided will be painting and weathering - track and stock.  I need to fill in with ballast where I've dug out to get the magnets fitted: then that will need spraying to blend in with the rest.  At the same time, I'll go over various areas as some are looking a bit tired.  Then there's the new bogies on the Mark 1s and the GUV to spray and weather, together with the bodywork on the GUV.  Followed by the van, which will be an Express Parcels one.

 

Plenty to do in the new chapter!!

 

I did wonder about doing the scenery next (the video above brought it home to me!!) but I decided the track and stock were a higher priority.

 

Watch this space - more soon!!

Edited by Dmudriver
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Hello Rod a nice little update there, when I saw “New chapter” I was expecting see the words ....... third rail “cough cough”

 

Best regards

Craig

I wouldn't rule a third rail out completely, Craig, but I would rule out 503s replacing the 115 and other DMUs!!  Sorry!!!!  The third rail would be for looks only!!

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I wouldn't rule a third rail out completely, Craig, but I would rule out 503s replacing the 115 and other DMUs!!  Sorry!!!!  The third rail would be for looks only!!

 

That would be a nice scenic addition Rod, and I take it the scenario is Electrical engineering works / upgrades going on, hence the DMU usage ?

 

Best regards

Craig.

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I wouldn't rule a third rail out completely, Craig, but I would rule out 503s replacing the 115 and other DMUs!!  Sorry!!!!  The third rail would be for looks only!!

 

 

I don't know Rod, if you acquired a 503, the live third rail could help with pick-ups ....

 

What do you mean..... :triniti:

 

Yea ok .... I'll get me coat! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

That would be a nice scenic addition Rod, and I take it the scenario is Electrical engineering works / upgrades going on, hence the DMU usage ?

 

Best regards

Craig.

I've been looking high and low but I can't find it...  There IS a picture, somewhere, of a DMU (a 101, I think) at West Kirby during some complete "Power Off" engineering work.  It might even have only gone as far as Leasowe for transfer to rail replacement service buses.

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I've been looking high and low but I can't find it...  There IS a picture, somewhere, of a DMU (a 101, I think) at West Kirby during some complete "Power Off" engineering work.  It might even have only gone as far as Leasowe for transfer to rail replacement service buses.

I don't remember seeing that one but I found this one some time ago.  Where I found it and whose copyright it is, I don't know. **

 

It's the only one I've seen of a DMU at West Kirby.

 

post-7571-0-56695600-1510924249_thumb.jpg

 

Rod

 

**  If I've infringed anything, I'll remove it.

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Iirc the 101's were used on the Bidston - Wrexham route, so would be a convenient choice if there were need of something off the juice

 

Presume they were ok for gauge as they shared tracks with the electrics at Bidston

 

Best

Simon

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Hi all.

 

Though I've been a bit quiet on here, I've not been idle railway modelling-wise.  I have this habit that, anytime I go into the shed, I have to have a "play", particularly now I've got the Dinghams working properly!!  Uncoupling at the building end of the platform roads is a little challenging but it does look good and there's no more big hand from the sky!!

 

I've also taken advantage of the odd decent day to use the fiddle yard, too - and I've now got the hang of that.

 

The only problem really with the Dinghams is being unable to couple/uncouple on a curve but that doesn't happen often and in the normal course of operations can be avoided easily enough

 

I've decided to work on the scenery a bit - as I've said earlier** - so I've finished off the portacabin: by painting it and putting some furniture inside.  The latter a bit of a wasted exercise, really, as I'm not putting lights inside (at the moment, anyway) so it's difficult to see in.  However, I know what's in there!!  So, here's some pics of it:  firstly showing its position relative to the rest of the station area:

 

post-7571-0-98102000-1510924870_thumb.jpg post-7571-0-82502300-1510924926_thumb.jpg

 

Secondly, views of the inside.  In the first, the supervisor's office is on the left and the crews room/rest room is on the right.

 

post-7571-0-15175000-1510924947_thumb.jpg

 

In the second, the view inside from the other side:

 

post-7571-0-76963700-1510925022_thumb.jpg

 

I must admit that I'm tempted to add more detail but as I've a lot more to do on the layout as a whole, I'll give it a miss!!

 

NOTE:  in the first pic, the apparent pillars in the background between the DMUs and the signal box are in fact the platform canopy which I've not put back in place yet after fitting and playing with, the magnets.   I also noticed, when I was cropping the picture, that the far leg of the cabin is bent.  It's now been straightened!!

 

Next is painting the fuel tank and  the bund walls, filler pipe and setting them all up.  Then the fuel point is to be fitted, followed by grassing the area round about.  So, watch this space. 

 

More soon.

 

Rod

 

**  EDIT   I've just read a previous post where I said the next phase was painting/weathering of track and stock.  I did the above because it's nice and warm in the house and not so much so in the shed!!!  So much for not writing a plan down!!!  I have added an extra magnet, though - on the rear siding, close to the ground signal to uncouple stock should I decide to use that road which I can do now with the automatic un/coupling.

Edited by Dmudriver
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Rod

 

The Portacabin is great & deserves lighting imo

 

A couple of leds would do the trick, but if it's difficult to hide the wires, could you use "light pipes" - strands of plastic or glass with a "ball" at one end and a led hidden under the baseboard at the other?

 

Of course, once you start with lighting...

 

Best

Simon

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Hi Rod,

 

I agree with the above two comments about lighting.

I have some really nice little SMD LED's here that are warm white and very discreet, could be glued to the inside of the roof and the wires run down a thin drinking straw in the corners of each room to be lit.

I run these SMD LED's through a 10k resistor and they give a nice glow with a yellow incandescent hue.

 

If you want I will make you up a couple of sets to glue into place and send them over.

 

Alternatively I had some Express Models LED flourescent lighting units with a dimmer that I had stuck inside my depot on my 4mm Wrexbury layout, you are welcome to try one of those as well as I still have them.

 

Regards

Jinty ;)

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Rod, I agree with Simon it does deserve lighting, a nice note pad and newspaper on the supervisors desk, and an off duty driver having a snooze on those DMU seats would add some lovely touches.

 

Craig,

Well spotted, Craig, that those are DMU seats!! I had some left over from early builds and thought that this is where I would use them. Also ties in with the "save money " sort of approach that was probably present in the late 70s/early 80s - spare DMU seats from the local depot for the temporary portacabin.

 

As for the lighting, gentlemen, I agree with what you say, but as Simon indicates, where do you stop? I'd need lamps on the platform, under the canopies on the platform and concourse, in the station building and the signal box, not to mention the houses!!!!

 

I need to do more to the scenery first to make the layout look more "whole". Then, I would think about lighting. I'm operating (on Oldham King Street Parcels) this weekend at an exhibition in Colne and there's a number of layouts with lighting that I've been admiring and I do like the idea. It's definitely on the "to do" list (way before any third rail!!!!!) but after scenery. I won't plant anything in place that can't be moved later, to make the job easier later.

 

But you did tempt me!!!!!!!

 

Rod

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Hi Rod,

 

I agree with the above two comments about lighting.

I have some really nice little SMD LED's here that are warm white and very discreet, could be glued to the inside of the roof and the wires run down a thin drinking straw in the corners of each room to be lit.

I run these SMD LED's through a 10k resistor and they give a nice glow with a yellow incandescent hue.

 

If you want I will make you up a couple of sets to glue into place and send them over.

 

Alternatively I had some Express Models LED flourescent lighting units with a dimmer that I had stuck inside my depot on my 4mm Wrexbury layout, you are welcome to try one of those as well as I still have them.

 

Regards

Jinty ;)

Hi Jinty

 

Thanks for being so specific on the lighting. What you suggest is really tempting (particularly as the signals are lit) but I'm finding it's too easy to be led astray from the main objective. I've got the layout running how I want it but now I need to make it a railway within a landscape. Then I'll look at finer details. The scenery may well be a simple, broad brush approach and I'll decide where to go next at that stage.

 

I really do appreciate the offer but I'll take a raincheck for the moment, if that's OK.

 

Thanks again.

 

Rod

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Rod, the cabin is a great bit of modelling but I still think the row of buildings at the rear of the layout are simply superb and they steal the show for me.

 

Thanks, Chris.  The portacabin is a Greenwood Model Products kit.  I built the kit and all I added to it were strips of plastic along the top of the roof to hide where the tags (if that's the right word!) at the top of the sides (pics 3 and 4) were visible through the holes in the roof into which they fitted.   You can see similar in the floors in the interior pictures but these are not as obvious as those on the roof would have been.  I could have used filler, I suppose, but to me this was a quicker way and they look realistic (pic 2 shows them - if you enlarge it!!)   I then sprayed it with primer and hand painted it.  The only minor criticism is that the legs are very thin and do bend and then break easily.  To take the weight off them I've put 2 blocks of timber underneath for it to sit on.  I don't think that's obvious from the pics!!!

 

I'm no more than a satisfied customer, by the way: it was Mike who did the custom platform canopy for me.  I've just looked on his website for the portacabin but it's not there.  I bought it from him having seen it on his stand at a show.

 

As I've said before, the buildings are by Streetscene Models - again, I'm no more than a very (!!) satisfied customer.

 

Rod

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