Chubber Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 This simple project is designed to show how you can make attractive stone built buildings and shelters from commonly available 5 mm foam board and I'm posting it here after a request for a 'how-to' after a previous post in someon else's thread and I'm sorry if this is a bit disjointed as I still haven't mastered getting all the pictures posted in the right order yet! Stage 1 Mark out on a sheet of 5 mm foam board as much as is needed for the model, separate it from the stock and then peel off one face to leave a smooth foam surface. Some are easier than others to peel, and may need wetting and gentle rubbing to remove the paper. A small sample of 'Canson' proved best. Ideally you need a board with a firm and fine foam filling, some are unsuitable for this job. Stage 2 On the peeled side, mark out end and side elevations including all openings very, very lightly with a 2B pencil and cut into individual wall lengths. Stage 3 Choose one wall and using a freshly sharpened 2B pencil held almost vertically draw in the pattern of the stonework, penetrating about 1mm – 2mm. Regularly re-sharpen the pencil. For dressed stonework use a sharp blade to first mark the horizontal lines, completing the verticals afterwards. I ground down and sharpened a used scalpel blade to a chisel edge of the requisite width to speed up the process. A reference photograph will help to produce realistic approximations of the masonry around door and window reveals. Think carefully about corner stones and the way in which they will appear to go ‘round the bend'. Stage 4 Cut out door and window openings, preferably using a new blade. As walls will be joined by 1mm half-lap joints decide which way your half-lap joints will be laid out. Be sure to do all scribing and cutting of openings before you cut the half laps, as 1 mm foam will tear or break very easily. Stage 5 Now put on the base colour of the stone using neat acrylic paint because the dry paint will toughen the vulnerable foam face in preparation for fitting the windows and doors. In this model the mortar lines stay pale grey from the pencil so a lightly loaded flat brush was used, drawn smoothly over the surface at a low angle. Mortar lines may be coloured by first using a wet brush, then allowing that paint to dry prior to using a lightly loaded brush in a wiping motion to apply the base colour to the raised surfaces of the stones. Stage 6 To glaze this model clear plastic material from a CD case is set into the rear face of the foam board. Using a razor saw or fine hacksaw cut each piece approximately 6mm larger than each window opening. A square format will simplify subsequent fitting and alignment of the glazing bars. Working from the inside, a piece is placed centrally in position over an opening and accurately cut around, penetrating only as far as the paper layer. A recess should now be made into which the plastic glazing should fit accurately to the required depth. Cutting to a consistent depth over the area of the glazing can be difficult, so a gadget made from the earth pin of a U.K. 3-pin plug as shown will prove very useful. Simply cut the pin with an Exacto razor saw, and it will hold a scalpel blade at a constant depth proving especially useful when cutting half-lap wall joints. Left-handed modellers should cut it on the opposite diagonal. Stage 7 With the plastic is fitted and held in place by hand, a sharp point is used from the outside face to scribe around the opening. This will leave a visible trace of the opening on the glazing which is used to guide the application of fine strips of self-adhesive paper label to represent glazing bars. For a more realistic effect, a frame and micro-strip can be applied using Mek Pak, as CD case material glues easily with clear solvents. The finished window may be secured in the wall recess with a little Copydex or fastened with Sellotape. Stage 8 A half-lap joint is now formed as shown with the adjoining wall and whilst held together the major corner stone positions are marked around to the second wall. Their disposition is mirrored at the opposite end of the wall and the marking of the stone pattern in between is completed. These two walls may now be joined with Super Glue gel, but prior to doing so, prime the mating surfaces lightly with 50% P.V.A. solution and allow drying. This will prevent the foam from absorbing all the Super Glue and causing a weak joint. Carefully press the 1 mm overlap along the joint lines with the 2B pencil to ensure the mortar lines coincide. Doors, made from painted card are fitted from the inside in the same way as the windows. Repeat the procedure with the other two walls. I thought I was a very clever bunny having 'invented' this technique until I was introduced to a French modeller Emmanuel Nouaillier see http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/nouaillier_a.htm who puts this job very much in the shade! I hope this has been of interest, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Excellent explanation, Doug. You are really good in that. For those who want read more on this subject can have look at http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4083 This is an article of Emmanuel Nouaillier showing how to scratch build and age miniature structures. Regards, Job Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kf4yyd Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I was wondering about peeling the paper off.... Seems I have some that refuses to come off without leaving the underlying foam looking like an artillery range. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Thank you for sharing this with us, great job on the building. I have seen a similar technique but using drywall instead of foamcore. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 I was wondering about peeling the paper off.... Seems I have some that refuses to come off without leaving the underlying foam looking like an artillery range. Tom Hi, Tom, please see my remarks in Note 1 above. Some peel nicely, some don't. You can generally tell by looking at the corners of shop stock and having a little 'tweak' at any damaged corners. Warming slightly with a hair-dryer helps but having said that, a sheet left [mistakenly] in the dampe atmosphere of my cellr peeled relatively easily. Try peeling back an egde, then pressing a ruler close to the peeled edge and slowly working backwards, hoping it will rip stright off is a bit of a no-no. I have also found I am able to cleanly strip a smaller [component] piece whereas a large piece tears. Hope this helps, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Just use Safe Print - no paper to peel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Nevard Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Great thread! I wonder if wetting the side to be pealed would help the separation? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Not suggesting my skills compare (cos they don't) and I will definately be trying this technique on my next building, but you can get some reasonable effects embossing the foamboard without peeling the top layer off. only works for higly dressed stone, or maybe brick where the amount of relief is minimal. the walls on this are too clean, admittedly, and I will be doing more individual painting on the next building to break the look of the stones up a bit. by the way - added the Emmanuel Nouaillier link to my favourites - to beat myself over the head with whenever I think I have done a bit of decent modelling such inspirtional work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Just use Safe Print - no paper to peel. Hi, I don't think I know this 'Safeprint'? I have tried some 5mm high density foam sheet without paper covering, but it was way too fragile for my paws, and after a couple of days the painted side pulled it and warped it. What is 'Safe Print'? Yup, I look at E.N.s work when I feel abit smug, it's like the 'gold standard' in my mind. Chris, I did spray one sheet with 'wet water' but as the glue appears to be like the dratted stuff they put on price labels [the ones that mess up the front of CD cases etc] it didn't seem to help. Nope, the only answer is to use genuine 'Canson' with it's little purple logo on one side and peel off the non-logo side. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 as a hought , I have seen an article that suggests using the polystyrene bases from oven ready pizzas in the same way - free and you don't have to peel the paper off. I have used it to reasonable effect with children at school for making wooden viking houses. it did need backing with some other card if you needed it to have a great deal of strength Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Hi, I don't think I know this 'Safeprint'? I have tried some 5mm high density foam sheet without paper covering, but it was way too fragile for my paws, and after a couple of days the painted side pulled it and warped it. What is 'Safe Print'? Yup, I look at E.N.s work when I feel abit smug, it's like the 'gold standard' in my mind. Chris, I did spray one sheet with 'wet water' but as the glue appears to be like the dratted stuff they put on price labels [the ones that mess up the front of CD cases etc] it didn't seem to help. Nope, the only answer is to use genuine 'Canson' with it's little purple logo on one side and peel off the non-logo side. Doug See here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Print-Polystrene-Alternative-Block-Sheets/dp/B003JN1O82 used in schools. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Thank you for that, Meil, it looks very useful, and I think it could be glued one side to card. At 3mm it might be abit thin for cutting half-lap joints though... Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 See here: http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B003JN1O82 used in schools. thanks for that - have used it in schools - it is great stuff, but a bit pricey if you have got 60 kids doing it - pizza bases are similar... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Hi there, Great thread, as someone else has already said... I have used foamcore board previously, and I know Gordon Gravett also used it in the past, to superb effect.... Do you find the walls warp? I know Mr Gravett says you should either "sandwich" the board, in 3 layers or treat both inside + outside surfaces in the same manner, to prevent warping... I built a few small structures, and then went on to building a larger warehouse The warehouse walls were quite big, and warped very badly.... This by the way, was having used Howard scenics brick paper on the outside, and thin card on the outside.. However, I cut it down, and re-cycled much of it, and got a better result with more small buildings Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Would this work for doing roads and pavements or would resting vehicles etc on it cause it to degrade too quickly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 23, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23, 2012 Would this work for doing roads and pavements or would resting vehicles etc on it cause it to degrade too quickly? Just like the real thing, then... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 true, although as I'm thinking of producing cobbles and paving flags I'm worried that cleaning it will wear the surface away requiring maintenance of the surface... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted April 23, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23, 2012 Would a matt varnish over the top help to seal / protect it ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Hi there, Great thread, as someone else has already said... I have used foamcore board previously, and I know Gordon Gravett also used it in the past, to superb effect.... Do you find the walls warp? I know Mr Gravett says you should either "sandwich" the board, in 3 layers or treat both inside + outside surfaces in the same manner, to prevent warping... I built a few small structures, and then went on to building a larger warehouse The warehouse walls were quite big, and warped very badly.... This by the way, was having used Howard scenics brick paper on the outside, and thin card on the outside.. However, I cut it down, and re-cycled much of it, and got a better result with more small buildings Hi, Marc, I think internal bracing is required for anything over 9"x9", either floors or 2" wide pieces glued onto the inside of the walls. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 true, although as I'm thinking of producing cobbles and paving flags I'm worried that cleaning it will wear the surface away requiring maintenance of the surface... Hi, Sheepy, I think it's great for road surfaces, after a coat of acrylic paint it is jolly tough and you can sand down quite subtle cambers. You can even add realistic cracks in old tarmac by carefully bending it until it snaps slightly before gluing it down. The little building above you could wash with a soapy flannel if you needed to! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Just a thought - you can get stuff made from oranges called "Sticky stuff remover" - Lakeland sell it amongst others - excellent for removing the sticky deposit from CD cases Dabbing it on the paper surface and letting it soak in may help the paper to peel - of course you may then be plagued by the smell of oranges! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Shortliner [all well up in the highlands?] and Stubby, I'd be careful of solvent/petroleum based stuff in this foam, I've had a couple of mini-disasters! Smells of oranges? I had a girlfriend nearly 50 years ago who used a perfume called 'Aquamanda' that smelt of mandarins, I have her brought to mind each Xmas when the satsumas arrive! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I've had a go with some foam board I've got in, but struggled to get it to peel, what might I be doing wrong? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I've had a go with some foam board I've got in, but struggled to get it to peel, what might I be doing wrong? same 'ere. probably wrong make of board? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 The black stuff from The Range and Staples peels very easily. I haven't tried the white stuff yet... Great technique using foamboard this way. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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