Morris Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Hi, I'm new here, from Belgium, and sorry for my flawed English. Instead of using one sheet of 5mm Canson I use twoo sheets of 3mm. First a house,build in 3 mm and then on top a sheet with one side peeled of, and the stones ingraved. Here some pics: Regards, Morris Steens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 that looks awesome I am actually stunned that the model above is not an incredibly well molded and put together kit / resin cast I'm also wondering if foamboard would lend itself to building curved buildings in the art deco style or the georgian / victorian crescent style. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morris Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Yes you can,because once one of the layers is peeled of, you can fold the sheet annyway you want. Here some more pics from houses all build the same way as described before. The streets are also made fron foamsheet. I have manny more pics Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 ...I'm also wondering if foamboard would lend itself to building curved buildings in the art deco style or the georgian / victorian crescent style. Yes you can,because once one of the layers is peeled of, you can fold the sheet annyway you want... Yes, it will curve but art deco, Georgian and Victorian buildings are rarely faced with coarse or even rusticated stone. They may be brick or smooth ashlar or even rendered, so surely the benefits of engraving the foam would not come into play. Indeed the relatively coarse texture of the foam surface might be too coarse for most such buildings. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 There is some lovely work here! Re the 'Ashlar' etc, the foam board can be cut lightly with a Stanley blade [because it is thicker than a scalpel] and straight edge to give dressed stone effects, especially if it is wiped over with a slightly darker colour than the final stone colour. Interestingly, if you use two Stanley blades side by side you can get the effect of a deliberately 'spaced' mortar line, have go and see, it's difficult to explain and I don't have the model anymore. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kf4yyd Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Morris, Excellent work! Really like the Emsworth Arms, love the ivy effect you produced. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Morris, Welcome to rmweb... Some great modelling there sir! Thanks for sharing those super pictures with us I'm sure that as a road surface, it's easy enough to sculpt stones into I found it easy to carve potholes, to represent puddles. BTW. I used some of the black version of the card as dividers in a new stock box, and found it seems to glue better with PVA and has resulted in a seemingly stronger bond than the white version of the board Cheers Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kf4yyd Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 When you guys peel the paper off of the foam is there any paper residue left or is it straight foam? It looks like the type I can find leaves a small layer of paper.Wonder if I could run some fine grit paper over it. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 The type I have sometimes does this, I find I have to peel of the first layer, then peel of the remainder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morris Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hi, If you use foamboard from Canson, ther will not be any paper left on the foam once you have peeled of the paper. Other producer of foamboard mostly are verry difficult to peel,and there wil be paper left on the foam. Reg, Morris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hi, If you use foamboard from Canson, ther will not be any paper left on the foam once you have peeled of the paper. Other producer of foamboard mostly are verry difficult to peel,and there wil be paper left on the foam. Reg, Morris Yes, as Morris has said, [and as I said in the first post of this thread], 'Canson' is the brand to go for. Don't be fooled as I have been in the past into buying foamboard from a rack bearing the Canson logo, all genuine Canson card carries the name in white in a pale lilac triangle or the name Canson in pale lilac italic letters on one side. They also make an very good [but commensurately expensive] Bristol board of the sort used by Pendon Museum model builders. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Hi, Sheepy, I think it's great for road surfaces, after a coat of acrylic paint it is jolly tough and you can sand down quite subtle cambers. You can even add realistic cracks in old tarmac by carefully bending it until it snaps slightly before gluing it down. The little building above you could wash with a soapy flannel if you needed to! Doug Hi Doug, I'm liking that road surface - can I just confirm as I was struggling to follow the narrative of the thread a bit, that's foamboard with one side of the board removed? So that broken surface is the foam within? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 That's right, Dave, you can sandpaper the camber into the strip of 'road', paint it with acrylics and indent gutters, drains etc and 'wheel tracks', with a model vehicle. If, like me you always have the 'sun' on one side of your layout, darken the north side of the ruts with a darker shade etc, sprinkle grit into the wet paint at the edges, and so on. Good luck, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Good stuff, many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Doug, Thanks for this thread. Until yesterday I'd never used foam board. Your "show and tell" changed that. This is my first attempt at scratch building. The forum was "down" yesterday when I came to do this job so your technique was from memory - and having now re-read it I can see some improvements for next time. Windows and door will be added and the gaps filled around them. I've made a start on putting individual tiles on as per the technique proposed by Chris Nevard. My pet hate is seeing a gap around the bottom of buildings. So, to get round this I've channelled out a trench and once the building is complete I'll back fill with plaster and sink the building in. I've put some scatter down nearby - slightly out of synch, but wanted to check that the colour I was using for the stonework looked "ok" against grass rather than the burn umber terrain paint I've covered the plaster surround with. Thanks again, Andy Trench for foundations - avoid seeing a gap "underneath" a building. First attempt with foam board. Initial layer of colour added. Windows and door to be added and gaps filled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C&WR Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Morris, you may be writing from Belgium but looking at the names of some of the businesses on your splendid models you are learning English from a master. Just don't be disappointed that we don't all speak like that author's characters all the time... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 Looking good, Andy, hoping to see the finished model soon, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 An update on post #40, above. I've tiled the roof, with tiles laid individually from shredded paper cut up into squares. I've learnt a lot from this thread. Definitely going to persevere with foam construction. BUT the biggest thing I need to improve is cutting neat joints. To be honest it was done on the top of the chest freezer out in the garage - not the best environment to attempt high quality modelling. I can disguise their roughness on this occasion with some ivy growing up the corner of the building. But that'd look might suspicious on every building I'm planning! But on balance I'm quite pleased with this, my first scratch built building. Onwards and upwards. Anyway, thanks Doug for the tutorial. Andy EDIT: DOH! Forgot to mention - had a load of fun doing this little project! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 As mentioned yesterday I've added some ivy creeper on the corners to hide my poor workmanship (less than accurate cutting of foam board and forming of corners). The front door is made from balsa and painted with burn umber acrylic. Seems to work ok. The porch was formed just as the roof, a small piece of card with small squares of shredded paper added individually. Then painted with washes of raw umber and vermillion. The posts holding the porch up are again from slivers of balsa. I though some roses up over the porch would be good, so added a few strands of teased out green wool to the posts and then added some Peco scenic scatter (Poppy field). Anyway, I think that that kind of concludes this building and it is ready to plant into the baseboard, pot in with air drying clay and then work on the garden. Worth mentioning that before reading this thread I'd no idea how to work with foam board. The forum triumphs again! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 That looks very rustic, well done. What did you use for your windows? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 That looks very rustic, well done. What did you use for your windows? Thanks, Campaman. As I say, it was enjoyable. I'll put a photo of the finished item in situ up maybe tomorrow. The windows openings were cut out and I used Wills (I think) "frames and doors", simply push fitted in and a bit of pva glue to bond it. I may put a bit of DAS clay in where there are gaps between the frames and the stonework. The lower left window opening was too big (as mentioned my cutting was not too accurate), so I cut out a strip of balsa wood and fitted it as a window ledge. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 The lower left window opening was too big (as mentioned my cutting was not too accurate), Andy Nice original work! Do try to make the little cutting aid I have shown earlier, [picture 4, post No 1] as the little pieces of thin foam are quite flexible and deform easily to cover the inevitable wobbles. Another good idea is to use the small snap-off Stanley knife with about 2" of blade extended, and a good steel straight edge, it is much easier to get a good square cut Alternatively, as many 'rough' stone buildings had nicely shaped corner stones, download a Scalescenes 'stone' sheet from the scratchbuilders range and cover the building corners with the appropriate stone strips. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morris Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Hi, I just completed my whisky distillery. Here are some pictures. Al remaks are of course more than welcome. Kind regards, Morris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HARRYMALLARD Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Wow his is stunning work, I especially love that last picture with a nice manor! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morris Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Thanks, it's the manor of Jeeves the owner of the distilery. :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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