Michael Delamar Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 superb work! what wheels and pickup arrangement are you using? sorry if its been mentioned already, ill be interested to hear how well these little critters run,, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 superb work! what wheels and pickup arrangement are you using? sorry if its been mentioned already, ill be interested to hear how well these little critters run,, Hi Michael, I will be using the wheels supplied in the kit with some sort of scraper pick up. I wont know the actual design until final assembly. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 14, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 14, 2012 superb work! what wheels and pickup arrangement are you using? sorry if its been mentioned already, ill be interested to hear how well these little critters run,, Mike I see a LOR loco coming your way! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Mike I see a LOR loco coming your way! already got an impetus one, well Chris has. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 I had not realised that I had neglected this little shunter for so long. Here with the three main parts given a coat of primer. I am hoping to start painting the top coats on Saturday. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 12, 2016 Nice to see it finished Gordon! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Not quite Mike. Motor, gear box, wheels and pickups to fit, not to mention some glazing. I am hoping to have it up and running for Railex. Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 I masked the body off, then Richard L spray painted the top coat for me. Paint still wet. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Some pictures of the inner chassis and gearbox put together. Not my best set of photographs. The brass spacer adjacent the final drive gear on the fixed axle is NOT necessary. The gear is held in place by another gear in the chain. Spotted after fitting. The two brass spacers on the rocking axle outside the frames are my first thought as to how I can keep the final drive gear, which is 1.25mm thick, in mesh but still have minimal side play for this axle to rock. It would be easier to fit the gearbox to the chassis before adding the brake shoes and sand pipes, as they get in the way when trying to wind the two millimetre axles through the interference fit final drive gears. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 Motor and wheels fitted. Gears and motor bearings given a miniscule drop of oil as well as axle holes and bearings. I had to open the motor mount screw holes outwards a few thou to mount the motor. A good round rat tail file to the rescue. The whole gearbox assembly and wheels appear to run smoothly. A bit of tweeking of brakes and sand pipes are required. If I was building another one I would add these after fitting the motor, gear box and wheels and having checked they run smoothly. The motor is a Mashima 1020. Next job on the chassis will be the pick ups. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Having a spare ten minutes I decided to make sure the body would fit. No it does not. A check with a measuring stick revealed that the cut out in the cab front is 10mm wide and the motor I fitted was a Mashima 1220 - 12mm wide. So a large slitting disk was used to enlarge the cut out in the cab front. You can see the shiny scars from my surgery. The net result is the cab now fits. The next job will be fitting the pick ups. The representation of the sand pipes are useful as a set of legs when test running the mechanism. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 At last the pick ups. I used two pieces of copper clad point strip approx. 8mm long. I have filed the copperclad away from the edge nearest the chassis on the side where the pickups will be soldered to prevent any chance of a short through the chassis. If you go back to post 19 you will see that I added a length of 2 x 2mm brass angle down each side. The pieces of copper clad point strip are glued to the underside of the brass angle using super glue gel midway between the wheels on each side. I then cut two pieces of 0.35mm phosphor bronze wire 32mm long and soldered them to the underside of the copper clad. I place the pickup wire so that it sits in the curve between the flange and the rim of the wheels. The next job was to bend the wire with tweezers so that there is a constant pressure on the wheels. The sand pies were cut to length and bent to shape. After test running the mechanism again using croc clips on the motor I connected the motor to the pick ups using offcuts of wire from DCC chips. I ground a notch in each side of the gearbox end of the chassis for the wires using a slitting disc with great care. The chassis was test run last night on a yard of track and the wheels given a clean with degreasent. With a bit of running in the chassis runs smoothly, but with a wobble. The wobble I believe is due to a loose wheel which I ended up gluing in place with superglue. I would like to add a DCC chip with stay alive, finish off painting,add buffers, a driver and glazing. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45707 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Gordon, thanks for outlining your build method and the pitfalls. I have just started to build one. Have just got to the stage where the gearbox is complete and running smoothly although there was an issue with the etch of the swinging arm resolved with a piercing saw and file. Like you I had to open up the inner frame so as to get the gear box in. One of my main concerns is getting the B to B gauge in when pressing home the wheels. Cheers RobM..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Have you finished this yet, Gordon? Have you managed to get it to run nicely? I have one of these kits that was built by someone on here for me. It's been sat on a shelf for years and so with me getting into OO again I took it down and to 5050 of this parish to be regauged from EM to OO. After the wonderful Hornby Pecketts that re-started my interest in OO this little 48DS is a real disappointment. It seems to run well enough in a straight line and at speed but will suddenly stop for no apparent reason and there is one turnout where it stops every time. The Pecketts have no problems on the turnout, or any other parts of the layout and it's not the frog where the 48DS is stopping either. When it is deliberately stopped it often won't start again without a prod. The wheels are clean and I can clean the track and it will stop whether the track is clean or not. I don't have these problems with O gauge locos so just how are you supposed to get these tiny damn OO things to work properly? I was thinking of buying a Judith Edge 88DS, or an RT Models Thomas Hill but if this is how small OO kit-built shunters are then I don't think I'll bother. Surely they can't all be such poor runners? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Fit a small flywheel. I did it to my Je 48ds which behaved as you describe, and it worked wonders. A little lead behind the frames and under the cab roof improves things too, and white metal crew. I used the 7mm diam flywheel from the 3mm society, which just fitted. Paul A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 I'd second the comment about flywheels and lots of weight. My 48DS (A1 body plus compensated RT models chassis) has all of these (I even used metal centred wheels rather than Gibsons) and can crawl along to the point where it's barely moving. It's also worth checking the pickups to make sure all are in all contact with the wheels and working properly. I've started doing this using a multimeter on the resistance setting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Ruston, Construction is finished apart from glazing and couplings. Basic painting is also done. A basic test run has been done. I am thinking of bringing it to S4 North. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Ruston, Construction is finished apart from glazing and couplings. Basic painting is also done. A basic test run has been done. I am thinking of bringing it to S4 North. Gordon A He'll be there. I'll make sure of it! Not sure if there's sufficient shaft left at the rear of the motor for a flywheel, is there Dave? I've got a couple of flywheels 'in stock' but they're an easy turning item anyway. Sorry to hear it's not running to well. I was hoping it would run in and be OK for you. I wonder if it could be the motor? It did seem to be running rather hot didn't it. How hot does yours get Gordon? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Mine also ran hot at first - mainly because to get a continuous, reliable travel I had to apply upwards of 10 volts. With a flywheel fitted it's much better - there's enough room for the 7mm diam. one as I say, but these are unavailable at present from the 3mm society. If anyone has any 7mm diam. flywheels going spare of fancies turning a few up, drop me a line! Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 I spoke to Mike Edge about this, today. He recommended that I change the phosphor bronze strip pickups to phosphor bronze wire instead. It seems to have done the trick. it now runs pretty much faultlessly over the turnout that was causing trouble and is now very controllable. It has a surprising amount of haulage power and can take 3x 7-plank wagons up the 1 in 15 on Nant Y Mynydd.The Hornby Pecketts can only manage 4. I have looked at it and there may be space for a thinned flywheel. So now the running is sorted I have painted it and fitted the buffers. The weathering wasn't intentional but I have decided to leave it as it looks like a loco that has faded paintwork. The effect came about after I had sprayed it with Revell Deep Bronze Green, which looked very matt and not dark enough and so I applied T-cut, using a cotton bud and somewhat overdid it and cut through to the primer.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Sorry to hear it's not running to well. I was hoping it would run in and be OK for you. I wonder if it could be the motor? It did seem to be running rather hot didn't it. How hot does yours get Gordon? It ran hot on test, on your layout, but seems to be fine now. I think this was something to do with yours being a feedback controller and I remember reading somewhere that really small motors, such as on these little locos, don't like running on feedback controllers and run hot with them. Regarding the fitting of flywheels to these locos - does it actually make any difference at all? Just how much energy can be stored in a flywheel weighing a few grams, and how far will the loco travel on that stored energy once the juice is shut off, or interrupted? Not enough to make any difference at all with a 108:1 gearbox I would imagine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 Another chapter to my voyage. This one is fitting DCC to my loco. My first attempt was after reading Nigel Cliffe's blog to fit a small DCC chip with stay alive. The chip is a CT DCX77z along with a small capacitor. In short I wired up ten of these capacitors along with the requisite two diodes and a resistor, but was not happy with the result. The chip ran hot, so this attempt was removed. I then played with a Zen DCC Concepts chip with stay alive. I did not take a picture of the stay alive. After satisfactory test runs with this lash up I settled down and found that the chip will sit in the chassis. I also removed the blue, yellow and white wires as they were surplus to my needs. The first job was to file two notches in the rear ends of the chassis for the red and black wires to the pick-ups.. I then fitted the chip and fed the red and black wires through the notches to the pick-ups and soldered the orange and grey wires to the motor. After I had sorted the wires out I bent up a simple right angle bracket to hold the chip in place. The remaining blue and black wires are for the stay alive unit. Then disaster struck when I gave the chassis another test run it would not play ball. Closer examination revealed that I had knackered two teeth on the final drive gear on the back axle! So work has come to a temporary halt with an e-mail to High Level. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 Right having managed to melt a couple of teeth on a final drive gear which resulted in frying the Zen Nano chip my modelling mojo took a bit of a dive. I obtained a replacement gear which was fitted. A test run on DC proved that the chassis was running sweetly again. A check on the current consumption revealed that the whole lot was pulling about 98 milliamps running suspended in the air. L looked up the Zen Nano's specks which showed a continuous out put of 750ma, so I ordered another chip with stay alive from Coastal DCC. The picture below shows the location of the first Zen Nano. As you can see the chip will fit between the inner chassis side frame and gear box side. My only concern in this position is that the chip could move clogging the teeth and frying another chip. This time I have fitted the current chip below the motor. Unfortunately it has twisted, but this is not a problem. The two stray wires black and blue are for the "stay alive" unit, the reason for choosing this chip along with its size. The "stay alive" unit will fit comfortable in the cab. So far so good. I have also glazed the cab windows using acrylic sheet from Ambis engineering and Deluxe Glues card glue. It sticks a treat. The next job is to find a driver, paint and fit in the cab. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 I have been playing testing my Ruston chassis with the "stay alive" attached. I am pleased to say that attaching the "stay alive" gives much smother and more reliable running. Here is the picture of the chassis and wagon with the "stay alive" in. Initially I was running this test with a decent piece of lead on the chassis. Removing the lead did not have any detrimental effect on the running. Next job the driver. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Right, I have found that after fitting the DCC concepts Zeno Nano "stay alive" package to the back of the cab, the body would not fit onto the chassis. Either the "stay alive" had to go or I had to fit a smaller motor. So I opted for a Mashima 1015 from Chris at HL. Here is the chassis fitted with the new 1015. The red yellow wires have only been added for testing on DC. Here is a shot with the 1015 fitted and the 1220 alongside in comparison. On measuring the 1015 the cross section appears to be the same as the 1220, however crucially in my case it is 5mm shorter. Chris G warned me that the motor mounting holes in the gear box would need easing, which proved to be the case. A few minutes work with a rat tail file. Here is a shot showing the "stay alive" package glued to the cab back and one of the drivers feet. And finally with the body screwed on, well four out of the six screws. You can just see the drivers arm. The loco runs quite nicely on my test track with the "stay alive" enabling smooth slow starts and stops. Just final detailing and touching up to do. Now can I fit the sane DCC package in my Planet? Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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