RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted March 30, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2015 Woodford Halse fascinates me, and I don't know why. Fascinating place railwaywise although oddly it was nigh impossible to find by road as it was little more than a housing estate for railway staff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Fascinating place railwaywise although oddly it was nigh impossible to find by road as it was little more than a housing estate for railway staff. I've been there, and the sheer massiveness of the remaining infrastructure is still quite something to see.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 6, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2015 To be continued…. Steve. Completing the Soldered components….. This model will be using several resin components that require gluing in place. To prevent any heat compromising the glue bond, I now needed to complete all the soldering. I’ve made a small square mount for the two Weight Bar bearings, which will ensure they are aligned correctly and represent the clamps holding the bearings to the Main Post. This is simply a short length of 4mm square Brass bar, drilled in the lathe for the main post and parted off. Marked off for the centres, it was drilled 0.45mm to take the Weight Bar axle, which will pass right through both bearings. The two Weight Bar assemblies were made up earlier: Only the bearing parts have been soldered in place, using a 0.45mm drill for alignment: All the Lampman’s staging supports, with handrail stanchions, were prepared earlier: These comprise a 17mm length of Brass section 1.0mm x 0.5mm. Drilled near each end for the Lace Pins that are secured with 225deg solder which will prevent them coming loose when they are attached to the signal bracket with 145deg solder. These were soldered in place: Followed by the upper level ladders. All the ladders are MSE etches, with 0.4mm N/S wire soldered to each stile for strength. Once the edges have been carefully filed flat, they look quite acceptable, and are certainly strong. The Ladder Hoops are Les Green etches. At this stage I added the 1/2in dia Foundation Tube to the base plate This will locate the signal in the baseboard, and align the servo motors correctly. The Main Post was now secured at the correct height and alignment: This allowed the signal to stand up on its own. The main ladder could now be added: The Rocking Shaft assembly: The shaft bearings are 7m scale Handrail Knobs. There are two concentric shafts. The inner one is 0.5mm N/S wire with cranks at each end which drive the Home arm. This runs inside a 1/32in Tube (0.55mm I.D.) which is the outer rocking shaft and this drives the Distant arm. This assembly was soldered in place on the front face of the channel bracket. And finally, the Handrail formed from 0.4mm N/S wire was added as seen above. Fixing the resin components will be next…. Steve. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Beautiful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 8, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2015 (edited) Adding the Resin components…… These components have been “3D Printed” by Shapeways in Holland. Les Green did all the drawings and ordered them for me. Les then used the 3D prints of the shoes to make a mould in which he cast the items I've used here. First the “Shoes”: On the prototype these are the castings that fix the Post and Dolls to the bracket work. Then the Lamp, its Bracket and the Arm Bearing: Two are required on the taller doll. I formed a piece of 0.5mm N/S wire to help set the 6 ft. spacing and alignment. The rear face of this component has a shallow groove of 1.0mm radius to give a close fit on the Doll. (If using it on a square or lattice Doll, a few strokes with a file gives a flat surface. All these resin items were fixed with Loctite Cyano. Glue. Cleanliness of the brass, after a little abrasion with an emery board helps make a strong bond. When everything was nice and firm, it was a good scrub in “Cif” followed by a thorough rinse in Cellulose Thinners then off to the Paintshop………. Steve. edited to add info. on Casting the Shoes. Edited April 8, 2015 by SteveAtBax 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) Adding the Resin components…… These components have been “3D Printed” by Shapeways in Holland. Les Green did all the drawings and ordered them for me. Les...... Les.....is more. Edited April 14, 2015 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) Hi Steve. Let me say I'm in awe of your work, given the constraints of 4mm. Two questions 1. I'm modelling a1970 -80s Irish rail layout. This uses tubular lower quadrant signals. Most are simple single pole. One or two have dollies or a bracket However these signals tended to have the weights close to the arm. , this means the linkage going through cranks down to the servo is very un prototypical. Would operating the signal using polyester thread ( to the servo ) and arranging the return operation under gravity be feasible. Obviously a clear snag free path for the thread would be needed. Your views. ( b). Could you give us a list of the most useful brass and /or nickel silver tubes wires and box section you find most useful. Thanks Dave Edited April 15, 2015 by Junctionmad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknich2003 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Dave, I have a few drawings of Irish signals, if you want copys, please ask. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Dave, I have a few drawings of Irish signals, if you want copys, please ask. thanks,I will bear that in mind, I have a very comprehensive photo survey myself , taken around 1981, when these signals were in widespread use. They are simplistic enough to model as most are not ornate. However the issues around activation in 4mm without too many cranks and rods, has perplexed me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 15, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 15, 2015 Hi Dave, I have never tried to use Gravity to move any of my signals. It just doesn't scale. You could try using a fine "spring" in tension to assist. I have heard of modellers using "Lycra" thread for this purpose. Sorry if that's not much help. As to wires and tubes etc.: I always use N/S wire in preference to Brass. Its just so much easier to work with and solder. Favourite sizes: 0.33; 0.40; 0.45 mm but I carry stock of all available sizes up to 1.00 mm Round Brass Tubes: K&S range (American): 1/32; 3/64; 1/16 Thick and Thin-wall; 5/64; 3/32 Thick & Thinwall; 1/8 and 5/32. With these sizes, you can telescope them to make any size you might wish. Metric sizes: Albion Alloys very fine sizes: 0.6mm OD x 0.4mm ID is very good for sleeving over 0.4mm wire to make a joint. Square Tubes: 1/8in and 5/32in Other solid sections: Channel up to 4mm x 1mm, Tee up to 2mm x 2mm, Square up to 4mm. Over the years I have built up a good range: Here is my "Metal stores": They are all stored in an A4 Ring binder in "35mm Negative" holders. Finer items in clear plastic tubes. Hope that helps. Steve. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Hi Dave, I have never tried to use Gravity to move any of my signals. It just doesn't scale. You could try using a fine "spring" in tension to assist. I have heard of modellers using "Lycra" thread for this purpose. thanks Steve, even if the weights were upped a bit to generate a bit more " gravity ". I suppose the best answer is to try it, I must rig a test up. Like most people to date I have built them using rods from the base up, but its looks all wrong for this prototype , especially for dollies and brackets , I have tried hiding the cranks in the trussing etc, but its very fiddly and difficult to do. The other option might be a small spring behind the arm, providing additional return force or something tks re metal stores Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 16, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 16, 2015 Back from the Paintshop…… All the parts have been given a few light coats of Halford’s White Primer. Precision Satin Black was then brushed on The Signal arms were treated to a thin Gloss Varnish that is the base for the Arm Transfers which are from Chiltern. These in turn were touched in with Precision red and yellow as necessary, followed by a Satin Varnish sealing coat. The glazing, from MSE, is glued to the rear of the spectacles with “Canopy Glue” – as used by Aircraft Maodellers. I use a Leather Punch to produce the appropriate discs of Glazing: Before final assembly, the fibres for the lighting were threaded through the structure, terminating below the signal in a brass “plug” which fits in the brass tube that holds the Gaslight LED from Helmsman. This plug was made from telescoping sizes of Brass Tube. Assembly and operating wires are next….. Steve. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete22 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Hi Steve, Can you advise on a good brand of mini drills to use ...which make/source to you favour ? I have tried the usual cheap drills, but I find they won't even drill through a thin brass etch. Also, have you tried the mini carbide drills that are meant for drilling PCB's ? Please advise if you can... Thanks, P. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 17, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 17, 2015 Hi Pete, I have one of those Orange coloured boxes of twenty drills from 0.3mm to 1.6mm called "Microbox" I bought it years ago from Eileen's Emporium, when it was run by Eileen and Jim!. I keep it full, replacing broken drills from my back-up stock. These I purchase from Squires. I always buy their Packs of Ten, and keep at least one full pack and one open one to hand in all sizes up to 1.0mm. I always buy High Speed Steel drills.-- HSS To avoid rapid blunting, and prevent binding in deep holes, always use a lubricant. I use a fine oil, just a drop from a hypodermic tube. Use "spit" in an emergency. Hope this helps. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Woodford Halse fascinates me, and I don't know why. Me too when I lived up there in my younger years, but it didn't have much to do with trains back then ! Oh how I wish I'd paid more attention to my mother Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete22 Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Hi Pete, I have one of those Orange coloured boxes of twenty drills from 0.3mm to 1.6mm called "Microbox" I bought it years ago from Eileen's Emporium, when it was run by Eileen and Jim!. I keep it full, replacing broken drills from my back-up stock. These I purchase from Squires. I always buy their Packs of Ten, and keep at least one full pack and one open one to hand in all sizes up to 1.0mm. I always buy High Speed Steel drills.-- HSS To avoid rapid blunting, and prevent binding in deep holes, always use a lubricant. I use a fine oil, just a drop from a hypodermic tube. Use "spit" in an emergency. Hope this helps. Steve. Thanks Steve, My 1st drills were Microbox (in a blue box) but I can't get them to drill anything. I then bought packs of 10 by another make, and these are a real joke, badly shaped tips viewed under a magnifying glass etc. I read somewhere that Dormer are good, and probably Heller also - problem is these are all very expensive. This leads me to asking about the tungsten carbide PCB drills as seen on the net. They can be obtained for circa £5 per pack of 10 (0.3 to1.2mm in eack pack) and I would expect they are very sharp !, only problem is being carbide they won't bend at all, so a drilling stand & lots of care is needed. I spoke with the buyer at the company that I bought the last drills from, interestingly he said all these cheap drills are made in "drill city" in China, and that there is virtually no quality control at any of these factories, it's just pot luck if you get a good set or not. Think I may buy a set of the carbide PCB drills....... I will let you know how they perform. P. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 18, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 18, 2015 Hi Pete, I'll certainly be interested in how you get on with the carbide drills. In general, "You get what you pay for" seems to apply. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Thanks Steve, Think I may buy a set of the carbide PCB drills....... I will let you know how they perform. P. You will almost certainly break them the first time you use them. They are very brittle and any sideways movement whilst drilling will cause it to shatter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 20, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 20, 2015 Assembly and operating wires are next….. Steve. Assembling and Operation…. Not much in the way of photos to show here, except the results. The operating wires are 0.4mm N/S, blackened with Gun Blue. Careful measurement of the lengths required and bending with fine pliers and fingers is all that’s needed. I usually get one or two bends the wrong way round, but managed all bar one OK this time. I started with the arms on the taller doll. The Distant first, followed by the Home, connecting them to the Rocking Shafts’ cranks. The Weight Bars were next, connected to the other end of the Rocking Shafts. The two Weight Bars on this side of the Main Post are supposed to be “Slotted”, so the one for the Distant has two weights. The actual slotting will be done electrically, by the operating switches. The Arm on the shorter doll is connected directly to its Weight Bar, on the other side of the Main Post. The “Back Light Blinders” were now fitted to each signal to fix them permanently. Once I was happy with the way everything worked, I connected the operating wires which pass below ground to the Servo Motors. From the point at which these pass out of sight, they were each sleeved in 1/32th in. dia Brass Tube. These are a running fit in the Guide Tubes which were installed earlier. This minimises the risk of buckling when the signals return to Danger, and ensures an accurate alignment with the “Horns” of the servos. The final connection to the Servo Motor is made by a 1/16th in. dia Brass Tube. This is carefully formed to align everything correctly. To solder these together without any risk of getting it all solid, I cut a small hole in the side of each tube which allows a good joint to be made with a minimum of solder and well away from any moving surfaces. The final joint for each arm is made with the servo motor set to its “Safe” position, and the arm set mid-way between Danger and Clear. (The safe position is set by a switch on the GF Controllers, and is the mid-way position.) The final part of the signal to be added was the wooden staging. The timbers were cut to size from “North West Lumber” material, and stained with Colron wood dye. Each timber was held in place with a tiny spot of Loctite super glue where it rested on the metal work. A rare “Up and Under” shot which probably cannot be seen once the signal is installed: More to follow, including a little video, I hope. Steve. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 A lovely new looking signal and it has arms with rust streaks. I thought the LMR policy was to spend as much as possible on the GC to make it look uneconomic? <G> Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 22, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 22, 2015 A little diversion from my 4mm modelling: On Saturday I'll be demonstrating at: NORTH WEST 0 GAUGE MODELLERS LEIGH SHOW 25th APRIL 2015 INDOOR SPORTS CENTRE, LEIGH SPORTS VILLAGE, SALE WAY, LEIGH, LANCASHIRE. WN7 4JY. I'll be working on a "Devon Lasercraft" kit of a GWR Platform Mounted bracket signal. Do come along and say "Hello", (or anything else). Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 (edited) A little diversion from my 4mm modelling: On Saturday I'll be demonstrating at: NORTH WEST 0 GAUGE MODELLERS LEIGH SHOW 25th APRIL 2015 INDOOR SPORTS CENTRE, LEIGH SPORTS VILLAGE, SALE WAY, LEIGH, LANCASHIRE. WN7 4JY. I'll be working on a "Devon Lasercraft" kit of a GWR Platform Mounted bracket signal. Do come along and say "Hello", (or anything else). Steve. See you there then! JF Edited April 23, 2015 by Jon Fitness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Assembling and Operation…. Not much in the way of photos to show here, except the results. The operating wires are 0.4mm N/S, blackened with Gun Blue. Careful measurement of the lengths required and bending with fine pliers and fingers is all that’s needed. I usually get one or two bends the wrong way round, but managed all bar one OK this time. I started with the arms on the taller doll. The Distant first, followed by the Home, connecting them to the Rocking Shafts’ cranks. RIMG1309.jpg The Weight Bars were next, connected to the other end of the Rocking Shafts. RIMG1308.jpg The two Weight Bars on this side of the Main Post are supposed to be “Slotted”, so the one for the Distant has two weights. RIMG1310.jpg The actual slotting will be done electrically, by the operating switches. The Arm on the shorter doll is connected directly to its Weight Bar, on the other side of the Main Post. RIMG1312.jpg The “Back Light Blinders” were now fitted to each signal to fix them permanently. Once I was happy with the way everything worked, I connected the operating wires which pass below ground to the Servo Motors. From the point at which these pass out of sight, they were each sleeved in 1/32th in. dia Brass Tube. These are a running fit in the Guide Tubes which were installed earlier. This minimises the risk of buckling when the signals return to Danger, and ensures an accurate alignment with the “Horns” of the servos. The final connection to the Servo Motor is made by a 1/16th in. dia Brass Tube. This is carefully formed to align everything correctly. RIMG1316.jpg To solder these together without any risk of getting it all solid, I cut a small hole in the side of each tube which allows a good joint to be made with a minimum of solder and well away from any moving surfaces. RIMG1315.jpg RIMG1326.jpg The final joint for each arm is made with the servo motor set to its “Safe” position, and the arm set mid-way between Danger and Clear. RIMG1321.jpg (The safe position is set by a switch on the GF Controllers, and is the mid-way position.) The final part of the signal to be added was the wooden staging. The timbers were cut to size from “North West Lumber” material, and stained with Colron wood dye. Each timber was held in place with a tiny spot of Loctite super glue where it rested on the metal work. RIMG1322.jpg A rare “Up and Under” shot which probably cannot be seen once the signal is installed: RIMG1324.jpg More to follow, including a little video, I hope. Steve. Even with those cruel enlargements that signal looks the dogs doo-dahs. Wonderful rendition of my favourite type of signals. JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Steve Hewitt Posted April 23, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23, 2015 Thanks Jon, I'll bring that one with me on Saturday. Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I wish I could get there, but with an MRI in the morning and a 4 1/2 hr drive its just not possible. Just that little bit to far from me. May be a little nearer to home at some time, like NEC. Hope you have a great day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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