Pugsley Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Looking good Tony B) There's nothing like taking a saw to a nice new model, is there? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Peters Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Tony, looking good as always. You are really an insperation to all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted August 7, 2010 Author Share Posted August 7, 2010 Looking good Tony B) There's nothing like taking a saw to a nice new model, is there? I agree entirely, in fact if there's no saw cuts it 'aint real prototype modelling. :D :D But Martin, there's more sawing to do. Tony, looking good as always. You are really an insperation to all Andrew, thanks bud, I hope that you find an odd thing I do on here that you can adapt to your own modelling style. So on with the clinic AND the saw. Because the shell has been shortened the underframe needs the same treatment, After cutting the frame in two both ends need to be filed so that when the two sections are re-inserted back into their location the hole for the trucks matches the location stud in the body shell whilst at the same time the ends join neatly somewhere close to the center. Note also the internal lugs for the side supports must also be relocated, again to match the side support locations. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Share Posted August 10, 2010 Hi Guys, The tub underside on the BLMA model look like this: Solid...!! The prototype underside looks like this: Not solid but channels. So in keeping with the concept of prototype modelling I decided to represent them as accurately as I could and removed the BLMA moldings and added brass channel section, thus: I annotated the image with the note about removing the sharp corner with a chamfer. Initially I didn't do this and when I first came to fit the actual side tub strap it broke when I bent it around the 90 degree corner. This will become apparant in my next posting. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
branchie Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Tony, Your accuracy to detail is amazing. Can't wait to see more sir Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 Tony, Your accuracy to detail is amazing. Can't wait to see more sir Thanks Branchie, I enjoy doing it and since I'm building only a small US layout then it provides time to do all these stinky details. They also provide me with complete clinic presentations (lectures in UK parlance) for the RPM meets I go to. If I were to build one of those huge basements layouts, then no, not enough time to detail in the way I derive my enjoyment out of the hobby. These images show the stages of fitting the tub strap brackets and the reason why I remove the sharp corners of the channels I have added. I first CA glue styrene strips and leave them for 24 hours for the CA to get good and hard, then bend them at 90 deg and glue that portion of the strip to the brass channel. Soon as they get a bite on the channels I pressure cut to length with a sharp scalpel blade. Second image shows a piece of styrene angle and pass a rivet thru and the detail is done. Surely BLMA could have done similar. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Haven't been in this section for quite a while, so maybe time to do a really easy Athearn Blue Box Bash. Just how many US modellers have got a few unfinished blue boxes in their cupboard...? A guess...a lot. For the Southern Railway Historical Assoc I was asked to put together a presentation for their 'Gathering' earlier this month. The 'Gathering' focuses on Southern Rly modelling. Being an NS modeller I had to come up with something to show. So I decided to do a Southern box car, specifically for beginners rather than experts. The SRHA happens to have a huge number of beginners. :D First off this is a fantasy car. Fantasy in this context means that the end result will not be accurate but somewhat closer to the prototype and hopefully a darn sight better than when the new blue box car was lifted out of its r-t-r box packaging. Image that follows was my starting point. The areas here work for all four sides. The B end. A end similar. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 Hi Guys, Onto the actual butchering. Image shows where I have prepped the underside of the lower sill. It also shows where I have made a start on the sill slope angle instead of the square ends. This image shows the added styrene strip which will later be filled and smoothed so as to end up with an increased height sill. You can also see in this image where I have bashed the ends. Here I'm showing a close up of some of the butchery going on. Note that I have already busted off one of the stirrups. They will all get snapped off with finger and thumb, quicker than using pliers. I fill the join with Bondo. Works the best, far superior to Squadron putty and Milliput. The final product all close and cosy. Note the molded on hand grabs have also been chiseled off. The final product - From a distance. Until...???? Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Typically I make screw ups. Annoying..? not really, they help me to improve in a variety of aspects. To pay attention, measure twice cut once..that sort of thing. After doing what I had with the sill I then started to review some images to use as a guide to continue this fantasy box car. Once I had selected what I felt would do the trick I saw something that I had to change, the sloped angle of the sill. You can see here that I have removed the styrene I had originally added on the sloped area and rebuilt the horizontal area. Plus a small piece of styrene stuck onto the corner where I had damaged that corner. The other end with some similar damage fill plus the replacement hand grabs bent and fitted. image below shows the very rough butchery removal of the B end detail parts, the A end looks almost the same. :lol: Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Typically I make screw ups. Heh, that makes me feel better. I like to include my screw-ups in my posts - I don't want people to think I'm some kind of brilliant modeller, just 'cos they only get to see the good bits. I'd better go and post something on the protoweathering forum now, before I get chopped by 'Jerry the Axe' Fascinating stuff, as always, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Hi Tony, Funny that you should be doing this, I just stumbled across a Athearn boxcar in my desk that has been waiting for me to get a round tuit . This should help. BTW what diameter wire are you using for the hand grabs? Cheers, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 Hi Tony, Funny that you should be doing this, I just stumbled across a Athearn boxcar in my desk that has been waiting for me to get a round tuit . This should help. BTW what diameter wire are you using for the hand grabs? Cheers, David David, always 0.012" dimeter. Likewise same for engine hand rails. Thinking about it Dave, all handrail/hand grabs. Period. Good you have a blue box in your cupboard. Hope you enjoy following along. Tell you what, be neat if you post a few images of your efforts. Nothing like encouragement to those lurkers out there. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 Heh, that makes me feel better. I like to include my screw-ups in my posts - I don't want people to think I'm some kind of brilliant modeller, just 'cos they only get to see the good bits. I'd better go and post something on the protoweathering forum now, before I get chopped by 'Jerry the Axe' Fascinating stuff, as always, Tony. You and me both Pugsley dude. Axe from PW..?? not part of the plan, your contributions are so top drawer and show many a novice so much. Period. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 I go about replacing the original hunky chunky tack boards by making new from styrene strip. Not exactly a skill job. I don't take too much care with these as they look better when they are a bit tatty like the prototype when they get old. Attached to the B end. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Share Posted October 29, 2010 Hi Guys, You will see in this image that I decided to go a step or two further with this fantasy blue box bash. The hand grabs I fitted I removed. This is because I wanted to add the vertical posts to the inside of the corner posts. An item I forgot to do earlier. The image shows the car getting undressed. And here you see the car with no clothes on... Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Tony Why don't you strip the model before you start to add things? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Axe from PW..?? not part of the plan, your contributions are so top drawer and show many a novice so much. Period. Very kind of you to say so. I was only kidding, I didn't think Jerry was going to axe me really. :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Share Posted October 30, 2010 Tony Why don't you strip the model before you start to add things? Pete Pete, Couple of reasons. 1. I use the existing paint for scribing lines and marking drill centres without digging into the base plastic. And 2. by the time I have done a bunch of changes a good deal of the paint I have filed and scraped off and that makes it easy for the alcohol to get under what remains and the paint lifts off in a New Your minute. In this case I wasn't too concerned how this car looked as it was a fantasy car. i.e. not a prototype car and I used it as a practice of my weathering and a few ideas I had for other cars that will become as close to prototype as I possibly can make it/them. Athearn blue box cars are basically junk to me but make great demo cars for weathering linics and such and as I said, to practice on. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Share Posted October 30, 2010 Very kind of you to say so. I was only kidding, I didn't think Jerry was going to axe me really. :) He wouldn't dare, your work is too good. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Tony You have said that you use alcohol to remove the paint could you be more detailed in what you mean buy the term alcohol please or do you mean some Yanky type of Moon Shine Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Share Posted October 30, 2010 Tony You have said that you use alcohol to remove the paint could you be more detailed in what you mean buy the term alcohol please or do you mean some Yanky type of Moon Shine Pete Medicinal alcohol from the pharmacy, Pete, the stuff they rub on your arm before sticking you with the needle. I get either 71% or 90%, whatever is available on the shelf. Obviously the 90% is the stronger solution and works bit faster on the models. Comes in a bottle. I have been 100% successful in removing paint from original models for all my projects so far. Depending on the model - an Athearn needs about an hour's soak versus a Kato which takes about a month plus soak. Other manufacturers paint jobs vary. I always time my projects such that paint is removed way before I'm ready to get the blade out and start cutting a shell to pieces. Right now I have a models soaking for close on a year, maybe longer. When I lift them out of the alcohol I'll be able to blow the paint off with my air nozzle in about 2 or 3 minutes. There will usually be a few odd corners that I have to get the tooth brush to, is all. One container I made was using a 15 inch length of 4 or 5 inch diameter plastic pipe, used in the house construction industry - plumbing and all of that. I buy it at the equivalent of D&Q or is it P&Q..? Anyhow any decent DIY store will have plastic pipe of various dias. I glue a piece of flat plastic to the bottom and stand it vertically. Pour alcohol into it plus the model and cover the top with an old plastic grocery bag and an elastic band. I check it now and again and top off any alcohol that has evaporated, which eventually it does. The nice thing is that there is no oily mess to remove from the model as the alcohol simply evaporates and the shell surface is immediately ready for paint. I tip the used alcohol back into the bottle using a funnel and a coffee filter to capture all the paint flakes and debris in the mix. During the soak the container must have an air tight lid otherwise the alcohol will evaporate. I've also found alcohol is good for airbrush cleaning in the old ultrasonic cleaner. I used petroleum product before that and still do depending on the paint base. Alcohol is pretty good for dissolving acrylics. But I'm still experimenting and learning different techniques on how to clean up efficiently with minimum time and mess. I use alcohol as a medium for some weathering processes as well. Useful product to keep in the tool kit. Helps to clean hands and pour on the scalpel blade cuts to boot. And when you're thirsty......hehehehhe Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 Thanks Tony That explains it I will have to see if I can get hold of some to try out. Being the Nanny State the UK is now the god that is "Health and Safety" may have stopped that type of alcohol from being sold in large volumes for our own safety of course. Thank you for going in to such detail. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Share Posted October 30, 2010 Thanks Tony That explains it I will have to see if I can get hold of some to try out. Being the Nanny State the UK is now the god that is "Health and Safety" may have stopped that type of alcohol from being sold in large volumes for our own safety of course. Thank you for going in to such detail. Pete Pete, try http://www.chemistdirect.co.uk/surgical-spirit_1_11475.html This is Isopropyl Alcohol and I'm guessing it is tantamount to the same thing. US parlance a little different methinks. I'd certainly give this a try and test it out and report back here. be interesting little project. I typed in Google - Surgical Spirit - and a bunch came up. Amazon.UK has got some in stock too. HTH Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Share Posted October 30, 2010 Hi Guys, Next job I did to make a visual improvement was to modify the door slide. An easy job to do which takes not much more than 10 to 15 minutes all told. The image shows the starting point. I file gaps in the solid slide according to a 'typical' prototype I have. In this case it was spaced closely to the Exactrail Waffle side box car. Add a plate covering the gaps and after some minor adjustments you're good to go. Small changes like this to that old blue box makes quite a big difference to the look of the car. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 This image shows some remedial work completed on the corner where I dropped it plus a set of hand grabs (for the 2nd time ) and a glimpse of a few bits of brake gear. Brake gear under the car is much like modelling steam engine inside motion you can't really see it that well. A fun folly but good practice for the purpose of understanding how brake gear is laid out and functions. A view of the whole enchilada. The B end looking a lot closer to a prototype, whatever it may be. Don't forget this is a fantasy car not an actual prototype model. Later, Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.