RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 17, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2013 As suggested in the posts in the Dapol Easy Shunt Magnetic Couplings here is a topic where you can post how you installed these couplings in to various stock that doesnt come with ready fitted NEM pockets.Itsl ikely that these couplings will be fitted tostock other than N scale such as 009 or TT scale, so please feel free to post any such conversions in here.Here is a link to a conversion I did in another post to Farish VGA 4 wheel wagonshttp://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48728-Dapol-easi-shunt-magnetic-couplings-in-n/?p=944623Will add a few more conversiondetaisl later.Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 17, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2013 Here is this one of this mornings tasks. After testing the first farish container flat conversion on the layout at Tonbridge yesterday - it worked fine. So here is another modification doen this morning. This works with the TPM end flat conversion kit whihc pushes the end of the vehicle out further. This modification would need changing to do the inner ends. First off is the end of the vehicle fitted with the longer rapido supplied in the TPM kit. After removal of the bogie from the wagon and the removal of the rapido coupling the underside of the rapido box is given a quick file to roughen the surface for the superglue Using the packer in the Dapol conversion kit, it is glued to the underside of the rapido box leaving a section protruding for the Dapol box The Dapol box is then glued onto the end of the old rapido box and the spacer. The moved up to the Dapol height gauge to check it is at the correct height. (it wont fit into the obx due to the spacer plate glued underneath). The wagon tested yeaterday was at the front of a 12 ft train and the glue held it firmly in place depsite the load behind it. Next conversio later is to more of the Farish class 66's. Ian Once the inner peice and coupler are fitted with the bogie back on the wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Hope this works, my conversion of a Dapol Collett bogie coach. The bogie, removed from the coach, axles removed along with the brass spring that supports the Rapido coupling. The existing coupling sliced off The area made as flat, level and square as possible Superglue was used to attach the new mounting box The bogie re-attached to the coach Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Hope this works, my conversion of a Dapol Collett bogie coach. Thanks very much for posting that. I have a couple of rakes of these that will need doing at the outer ends. Several of the latest Dapol models have been retooled to have NEM pockets (including the Siphon G and Autocoach). It is a shame that this year's bunch of Colletts have not been done too. I have a pack of pockets but my LMS did not have the conversion pack with the guage in it so I will wait to get that before I start slicing and docing my stock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomJ Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 This topic is very, very useful. Good to see people successfully modifying bogie stock - as I too have a lot of older steam era stock such as B-sets. The original advice I had from Dapol was that the conversion was only really designed for 4-wheeled stock so I had held off my steam stuff. But I'm having such fun hands free shunting my later diesel stuff I am tempted to try if its as easy as it seems. The real clincher will be whether anyone has tried modifying the pony truck of a loco - such as the Dapol 45xx!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 The real clincher will be whether anyone has tried modifying the pony truck of a loco - such as the Dapol 45xx!!! Not yet but I will be having a go at it at some point. Whether someone beats me to it remains to be seen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 19, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2013 Last night I fitted some more Farish class 66's with Dapol couplings. The whole truck assembly is pulled out of the loco and then the plastic sideframes are removed from the wheelsets by carefully prising the inner of the truck end off with a screwdriver. This is now a good time to check for any out of place pickups to the wheels- I found a few such even on fairly new locos that had hardly run. The rapdio and its spring if it has not already poped out is now removed The gap in the front of the truck where the Rapido poked through is now widened just enough to take the Dapol coupler The coupler will fit snugly in the resultant gap and at just about the correct height. A small amount of Superglue is added making sure that none getsinito the slots that hte wheel assembly fits back into - its easily done as that happend on a few of mine then having ot scrape the glue out so the wheel assembly would fit back in. The truck is reassembled and re fitted to the loco. I havent tried them over a magnet to see how well they uncouple but the first ones I converted have now been in use on Banbury for a few shows hauling freight around the tightest of the fiddleyard curves. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 19, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2013 Hi Ian Useful topic - thanks for posting! cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian b Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I've got a couple of older farish locos (31s & 37s) converted as per the 66 above, along with old farish mk1s & 2s and they work perfectly! Just received another 30 couplings in the post so that'll keep me busy for a few days! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Conversion of GF 100T bogey Tank wagons part No 3703, Poole made with shiny wheels. China made,373-555A slightly smaller wheels. After some deliberation I decided that the original coupling box would not be of any use so it was carefully cut off out of the way with nail clippers taking care not to damage the remaining drawbar shank......I made a sort of set of jaws out of very thin aluminium (top) and thin brass (bottom) into which the outer Dapol box will fit. See picture....points to ponder !..... A = leave at least 2.5 mm clear from edge of hole to take collar from underside of tank......B the metal here should be just clear of the axle, it can be filed to length where it fits up against the lower collar......The bending of this metal is a bit of a hit and miss affair but you should aim to make the Dapol box a good fit inside. Once bent I made a v shaped cut in the end to correspond with the v in Dapol box.....I used super glue for fixing but as mentioned elsewhere do not insert the inner box until all glue is dry.it is not meant to be solid ! The final filing to size/shape can be done after it is glued together....... I have made this as a one off for the front of the tanker train which will uncouple the whole train at once. I have given it a good testing and found it to work very well... If anyone has any questions please feel free to send me a PM Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 The real clincher will be whether anyone has tried modifying the pony truck of a loco - such as the Dapol 45xx!!! Hi Tom In answer to your question,yes! I am sure someone will have a go at putting a coupling on a pony truck but I ask is it worth the bother ? Most new locos are now fitted with NEM pockets and I would think only a few modelers who perhaps run steam loco's from the very early days would need to convert their loco's at all.... Rolling stock is an entirely different matter,that's why Dapol can't get these new decouplers made quickly enough..I am however going to contradict myself because I am now looking at the feasibility of fitting a coupling to a Union Mills tender loco, but don't hold your breath cos I might be thinking for quite some time. I will also have to consider what Mr Heard will say if I mutilate one of his beautiful loco's. Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 I'm planning on investigating using these on 3mm/ft.. I know continental TT rolling stock already uses NEM sockets to n-gauge sizing although not sure if the height from rail is the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 I am sure someone will have a go at putting a coupling on a pony truck but I ask is it worth the bother ? Most new locos are now fitted with NEM pockets and I would think only a few modelers who perhaps run steam loco's from the very early days would need to convert their loco's at all. Very early days? I still think of the Dapol small prairies and B-sets as modern. Whilst they have been out of production for a couple of years, there are plenty about and they are an indispensible part of the GWR scene away from the big cities. I am however going to contradict myself because I am now looking at the feasibility of fitting a coupling to a Union Mills tender loco, but don't hold your breath cos I might be thinking for quite some time. I will also have to consider what Mr Heard will say if I mutilate one of his beautiful loco's. Regarding, Union Mills, there is an article in the latest NGS journal about fitting these pockets to a variety of stock including a UM loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Conversion of NGS Kit No 009a Pollybulk Hopper Wagon. At first glance this conversion looks like a straight forward coupling box swap but no! it is not that easy.... These bogeys are quite compact and are fitted with a very petite coupling box and small modern wheels and if the new box were to be fitted directly under the drawbar shank it would be much too low and not conform to the standard, so the coupling box and drawbar have to be cut off just level with the front of the axle. Oh dear! we don't have much drawbar left do we ? We now take a piece of very thin brass plate (see picture) drill a hole about the same size as the bogey centre hole and cut and file to size and shape and with the hole centred mark and bend the end so that it finishes up just in front of the axle....The top piece can now be soldered in position (I do not need to say to keep it away from the plastic whilst soldering, do I ? ) and cut a V in the front similar to the new outer box,...file top piece to size and now it can all be glued together...I used 2 part glue and used a tapered wooden paintbrush handle to centre the holes while the glue set (didn't take it out soon enough so I had to cut it out) and there you have it. This is another one off coupling job to use at the front end of the train, it takes to long to even consider making 2 for each wagon....The plate on top of the bogey will of course raise the wagon slightly, I do not consider it necessary but a tad could be taken off the boss on the underside of wagon to compensate and possibly a small piece out of the buffer beam.......It looks like rather a lot of work but if you want a proper job you gotta do the work. PS....Tip.... before inserting inner box poke a tiny drill bit through vertical hole in outer box to clear any glue that may be there. .......For more coupling tips see NGS Journal 1/13.............Page 17 Happy modeling John....Chief Engineer to Horseley Fields.... On the 2nd of March we will be at March exhibition in Cambridgeshire Horseley Fields - N Gauge layout (was Dibben Junction) - Layout topics - RMweb - Page 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkie Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Mmmm I wonder if these will sort out the coupling problem with my farish VGA's Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Mmmm I wonder if these will sort out the coupling problem with my farish VGA's Hi Porkie ................You don't mention what the coupling problem is but nothing ventured nothing gained.... VGA's have quite a bit of overhang front and back meaning that any coupling needs to have some lateral movement this is of course more evident on a 4 wheeled as opposed to a bogie wagon.... Dapols new coupling boxes do have some sideways movement and you might get away with it.... If you do go ahead please post a pic on this thread for the benefit of other members. Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 26, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hello Porkie, Let me add to John's post that the Dapol couplers come in Long, Medium and Short lengths, so the long versions may well give you the separation required for trouble free operations. cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon D Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Porkie, Have you seen the conversion that Roundhouse has done to his VGA's. Here is a link to a conversion he did in another post. http://www.rmweb.co....-in-n/?p=944623 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 26, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2013 Have a look at the first post on this thread. It has a link to my conversion of the 4 wheel VGA's which I didnt make very clear. I used medium length couplers. The VGA's easily go round 11.5" radius curves and probably tighter than that. I will edit to make it clearer. Regards ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 ...........Union Mills Tender Drive conversion as fitted to an 0-6-0....J11 I didn't need to do so much thinking after all,...(see #11).....This has been the easiest conversion to date,one would think that Dapol made these boxes just for Union Mills loco's.......Method...;....remove tender from loco.....,motor etc from tender...We don't want filings in the motor do we ? The 2 driving cogs can remain but will need a good wash later... Cut the corner piece out for the box very very carefully, I used a junior hacksaw followed by filing and take a small piece out of the upper end of wheel retaining bar as well,...just a tad.... Offer up the box and mark and drill a hole where the lugs on the inner box will come this is so that any glue blocking the hole in the outer box can be easily removed before fitting the inner box, See diagram.....The box can now be glued with 2 part glue and left to cure for several hours........I have not looked inside but I am quite sure that the J11 loco would lend its self to having a coupling fitted at the front as well and that does not look to be a difficult job either. That's all for now folks,my 3 postings on this thread should keep you busy for a few days. Happy modeling cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Have a look at the first post on this thread. It has a link to my conversion of the 4 wheel VGA's which I didnt make very clear. I used medium length couplers. The VGA's easily go round 11.5" radius curves and probably tighter than that. Hi Ian ..........Sorry!..... I don't always get the old brain engaged....I forgot about your VGA's and I even posted a comment about them. ..........but that was last week.. Cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted February 26, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2013 John You are not alone, I do the same quite often Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkie Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Thanks for your replies peeps, I will have a good read of roundhouses thread and have ago at that first Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engage Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 .........Problems with converting 16T mineral wagons..!After cutting both original coupling boxes off a new type made in China 16T mineral wagon with modern small wheels I had a measure-upand found that if the new boxes were to be fitted at the correct height they would need to be fitted to the underside of the body and notthe chassis..... Since this in my opinion was a non starter I filed as much as practicable from the underside of the chassis and fitted largerwheels....Job done!..... Advice...unless you have a stock of the older large wheels it would be best to convert only old wagons already fittedwith the larger wheels.that is if you want the boxes fitted at the correct height or if you don't mind them being fixed to the underside of thebody..I don't think they would look right being fitted between the buffers.!.............Has anyone else come across this problem.?...Of course I now have a modern 16 tonner that stands a tad higher than similar wagons but at least it lends its self to hands off uncoupling.Moral:...measure before cutting.Addition to the aforementioned..!...Having just looked at some other 16T minerals I think it would be fair to say that not all of these Made in China with small wheels wagons have a lower than standard chassis..,perhaps the above mentioned was just one of a batch made just that bit lower.CheersJohn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted March 3, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 3, 2013 This morning I modified a Farish mk3 bogie. This ocach has been converted to form part of the EWS business train using Electra graphice sides.The bogie is removed and the old Rapido box cut off.Upon removal the remaining end of the box is filed flat. It is important to check that it is fild in such a way that when the Dapol outer box is offered up to it then the Dapol box sits level (not poinitng up which might happen if the remaining part of the Rapido box isnt filed correctly). The top of the bogie is filed to give a rough surface for the next stage.A part of the spacer supplied with the converion kit is then stuck to the top of the bogie with a small bit of it sticking out over the bogie.The Dapol outer box is then offered up to the bogie and prior to applying Superglue the level and position is checked.Once set the inner box is fitted and then the medium lenght Dapol coupler is fitted. I think the shorter ones will also work if the track curves arent too tight.The bogie is refitted and the coupler conversion is completed.I have just done the outer ends of this rake but in time all the couplers will be replaced.Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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