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Rob Pulham's 7mm Workbench - Back to the LNER 06 (MOK 8F)


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Although the close up makes it look big and it is 7mm the longest leaf in the springs are only 10mm long with the smallest at 4mm.

 

Once again I couldn't have done this without the Microflame - in order to make them removable, I filed the hexagons off a 14BA nut to make it have a flat to solder to the frame, while still allowing the horn-block to pass it (making it rectangular). I also had to prevent the solder from filling the threads on the nut - almost impossible with my soldering iron.

 

For the horn-guides I used square brass bar with a piece of paper between them and the horn-block to create clearance for movement. To ensure all was square I clamped a set square to the frame and one side of the horn-block while soldering.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I haven't updated this for a while but I haven't been entirely idle in the mean time. I took my Q7 along to Scalefour North so that Arthur could see his parts in the flesh so to speak and while I was there I got a couple of gear boxes for future projects from Highlevel and I also picked up something I never expected from a scale four show and that was a Hobby Holidays 7mm Rectank kit. My good lady was so taken with all the working springs and stuff she almost insisted I had one. I of course wasn't about to argue - gift horses etc.

 

Anyway on to progress with Severn. I have cut out the footplate, made the buffer beam's (I may revisit these as looking again at the photos they could do with being even chunkier)

 

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And fit the fillers to the tank top. I did this by drawing a circle around the end of a piece of tube on a piece of scrap brass I then riveted it around and soldered it to the end of the tube after cutting it roughly to shape with snips. I then mounted it in my drill and filled it round. I drilled a bigger hole in the tank top and another couple of pieces of scrap and then drilled a hole the diameter of the tube in a fourth piece. I curved them all to match the curve of the tank top and then soldered them together.. I just need to ensure that i don't fill the recess with paint when I come to paint it.

 

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This is what I was trying to emulate. It's part of a photo of Severn that is attributed to HC Casserley

 

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Here are the rear splashers before trimming and fitting.

 

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Today I managed to cut out rivet and assemble the remaining tank parts so I couldn't resist balancing it all together to see if it looks like a loco. This shot also shows the front buffer beam in detail. Looking at photos I thought that impressed rivets wouldn't convey the bolts in the buffer beam so I drill and fitted some 0.9mm pieces of wire to represent them (on another I would get some scale hardware but this is a first attempt and a learning experience.)

 

 

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I also discovered that even though I took Ken's advice and raised the chassis depth to ensure that the wheels cleared the splashers. I still need to raise it some more as the conrods touch the foot plate at present - but it all adds to the fun.

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Don't go over yet - I need to see your progress on the 4F before I get stuck into mine.

 

I must admit though the scratch building bit is really quite satisfying. There are a few things I would do differently on another but I am chuffed so far. And I still need to finish the Q7, and the several part finished coaches, and the....blink.gif

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Looking great Rob,

 

Love those cylinder covers. Are your rivets hand punched and measured? I had to have two goes at by smokebox wrapper on the O4 as the line wavered and like you the buffer beam really needs the wire treatment. There are in excess of 50 rivets to contend with though.

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Thanks LaScala,

 

The rivets are a mixture, I have recently (after Christmas) bought a GW models rivet press which has an index on on it allowing for really accurate spacing but the tank sides were too narrow to fit in the press at it's minimum setting so I did them by eye I did all the curves by eye as well, but you can apparently index them as well if you can interpret the instructions correctly - an excellent piece of kit for the money and very sturdy (usual disclaimers). I should have spaced the rivets out more on the splasher covers but I got carried away and wasn't about to change them.

 

With regard to 50 rivets on the buffer beam good luck and stay sanetongue.gif

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  • 1 month later...

Modelling has been none existant in the Pulham household for a few weeks due to preparing for a new kitchen fitting which has meant that the garage has been full of the new cooker etc so I haven't been able to get into metal work.

I went to the Gauge O guild show at Halifax on yesterday where I picked up a few more bits for the Severn and some transfers for the BG. Today I started to line it out. previously I have always put the gold bands on first and then gone over with black to finish off but this time I decided to follow Coachmans method of doing the black first.

 

Here are a few shots of today's progress ending with all the black lining on. The bits that look gold are just flash reflection I haven't got that far yet.

 

 

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Hopefully tomorrow will see the gold lining on

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have managed to get a bit further with the BG in my enforced absence from the garage. The interior is painted and I have just this evening added the transfers. All that's left to do is to scrape the paint of the door handles. assemble it and take some pictures in the sunshine tomorrow.

 

Here are a few shots of the interior now it's painted.

 

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The sun shone so I took it outside for a few pictures.

 

 

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I just noticed that I have forgotten to scrape the paint off the handles.

 

Tonight's job after posting these is to sort out the lighting using a DCC Concepts flicker free kit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

While I haven't posted an update recently I haven't been idle since finishing the BG. I have added the handrails to the tank, made the bunker, and cab sides.

I have also had a go at making a cab but I am going to remake it as I am not happy with it. The more discerning will notice that my cab looks different to the one that Ken did - Ken's cab goes to the rear of the bunker as in the plan. However since getting a quite good photo (also found by Ken but after he had finished his) I believe that the cab went into the front of the bunker - one of us is right ;)

 

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The right hand rear window came out too close to the edge and I got a crease across the front while folding the curve.

 

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The highlight of today has been making the coupling rods and finally having the chassis running (albeit up and down a single length of track). The reason it's upside down in the photos is the piece of PCB came loose so i have just stuck it back on with some super glue gel and I am waiting for it to dry before playing some more. I also sorted the springing with a couple of pieces of piano type wire.

 

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I also picked up a lovely casting for a Ramsbottom safety valve from Laurie Griffin at the Halifax show (seen here just balancing not soldered on yet as is the tank, bunker, etc). I also plan to remake the buffer beams after looking further at prototype pictures "they just aren't chunky enough". I also cut out a chunky piece of brass in the shape of a back head and I have acquired various lost wax fittings to go on it. How ever while browsing the Hobby horse site I chanced upon a couple of lost wax back heads for a very reasonable price so I have ordered one.

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I was away in Saltburn Monday to Saturday last week and had a lovely ride on the NYRM Pullman dining train in car 79 at long last (I have tried three times unsuccessfully to get a table) so the modelling took a bit of a back seat although I did manage to get a in a trip to Shildon (taking quite a few photos of the J52 there as I have one to build soon) and took a load of surplus books in to the bookshop in Grosmont and traded them for a volume of Yeadons and a couple of the LNER RCTS green books (one which includes J52's).

 

Sunday was very productive on the loco front. I managed to make the new cab, solder the saddle tank in place, fit the bunker and the brake standard and cut and fit the back head in temporarily. The Hobby Horse casting came with a cast 8BA thread on the back so I drilled through the boiler and it is now removable for further detailing an painting.

 

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The eagle eyed will have also spotted that I have taken of the buffer beams. I happened to have salvaged some time ago a brass letter box flap (from the rear not the front) and it is 3.5mm thick so I have cut a couple of new buffer beams from it. I was quite impressed at my ability to cut them in a straightish line with a the piercing saw so I didn't have too much filing to finish them off. I had big plans to drill them tonight for the buffers but we had visitors so perhaps tomorrow. I also fitted the safety valve base in place.

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Over the last few days I have been working on replacing the buffer beams and buffers. I drilled them out I then discovered why the new buffers were cheap at Halifax The heads didn't fit in the shanks angry.gif so more drilling was in order. Anyway I finally got them on and I managed to rescue the detailing plates from the original buffer beams so at least I didn't have to remake that.

 

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Further progress with cutting down the cranks pins and screws, filling the boiler full of lead and giving it all a quick test run down a couple of yards of track all added to today's pleasure. I also fitted some lovely lost wax three link couplings, I was most impressed at the casting of two of the links within each other and no join and all for the princely sum of £1 at Halifax (it made up some what for the extra work on the buffers. I must confess that I spent most of my time there looking through boxes picking up lots of lost wax castings for the spares box.

 

I also got fed up of waiting for a reply to enquires after a casting for a steam reverser so I made my own from a few bits of brass.

 

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Progress has been a bit slow since the weekend. I managed to get the chimney, smoke box door and front handrail/lamp iron fitted on Sunday.

 

Then my element went on my soldering iron - one of the Maplins solder stations. I managed to pick up some spares for about £3 each from Maplin's online which was good as the last time I wound up paying almost £10 for the full iron from an ebay trader as Maplins couldn't say when they would have spares available. It's a good iron and I use it quite a bit but it does seem to go through elements - this one went in last November so not that long. I have received them but haven't got around to fitting the element yet.

 

Anyway here's a couple of shots with the chimney etc and I must say I think it's now looking like a loco.

 

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The chimney and door I picked up in a box of spares from ebay (bought specifically for the door - the other items were a bonus)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have had a couple of weekend's work on this since I last posted an update and I have now added quite a bit of the detail above the foot plate. It still all needs fastening together - the smokebox, boiler and cab are all just placed in situ until I am absolutely certain that it all runs OK - I had a bit of binding with one of the coupling rods and I have ordered a 2.5mm reamer which should be here tomorrow.

 

I have also added the balance weights to the wheels in the style of Richard Lambert - plasticard front and back filled in the middle with Milliput. I have had to very much guess these as I didn't have a photo that showed them so I did the next best thing I copied what Jazz had done :laugh:

The steps are up next and while I have them marked out I have been off ill today and haven't had the energy to cut them out - maybe tomorrow if I feel better.

 

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I have finally finished Severn, aside from a few minor tweaks before the paint shop (I found the missing spring so that will need to go back on). Painting will be delayed while September due to my garage being full at the moment so I cannot get in to paint. Progress has been slow due to my being ill for the last week but I rallied a bit on Saturday before it struck again with a vengeance yesterday. A visit to the docs and a hole in the pocket later from prescriptions and I hope to be better by the end of the week to take a friend up on his offer to give it a run on 'Marske' at the Redcar Show.

 

As ever pictures speak louder than words.

 

Starting with a detailed shot of the home made vacuum pipes - brass rod, guitar string, copper tube and some n gauge chain.

 

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I even added a wooden floor

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Hopefully the next posting will show it painted but there will be a delay until I get my garage cleared from the new kitchen.

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Cheers JB, I am very pleased with it.

 

I just looked back at the beginning of the thread and I have taken about four months to build it which considering I have had to make almost every part I think it's quite respectable.

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Well, I thought I had finished but on going back and doing a few tweaks that I was aware of, I realised that I hadn't added guard irons or sand pipes.

 

I have sorted these and just had my first trouble free run up and down 2 yards of track pulling my BG.

 

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Even while posting this I have remembered rear lamp irons, at this rate I will be still adding detail at Christmasblink.gif

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Well I have made a start on the A3 getting the inner tender complete with brakes and waterscoop and quite a bit of the tender itself constructed - the detailing on the frames except the castings and the front bulkhead. I also added the balance weights to the drivers and filled them with Milliput to make them solid.

 

I have to say the DJH instructions are somewhat lacking to say how much this kit cost. angry.gif

 

I am not going to post a blow by blow account of the build due to the number of Hachette versions currently on the go so I will post pics as I complete the tender and chassis etc.

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  • 1 month later...

Tonight I managed to finish the tender for the A3 and mighty fine it looks too laugh.giflaugh.gif - sadly no photo's due to the camera being packed for tomorrows jollies.cool.gif

 

Even though it is predominantly brass it still weighs quite a bit with the castings for the corridor adding to the weight.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A few pictures of the finished tender - I still need to fit the coupling but I have ordered a set of JLRT brass buckeyes with a view to replacing the white metal one supplied by DJH with one that at least moves (I hope).

 

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