RMweb Gold farren Posted July 23, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23, 2013 Well horsetan you know mentioned the cross head looking a bit big I was hoping it would look ok when the connecting rod was fitted and it doesn't look too bad. But it's too wide the back hits the nut holding the coupling rods which is sods law. Might try a full set of princess valve gear from comet and a new set of cylinders and hope comets cross head is thinner. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Comet's is a lot thinner. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artisan100 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 There are several things you can do to improve clearance between the back of the crosshead and the coupling rod fixing. 1 - Reduce thickness of connecting rod to half thickness for last 5 mm 2 - Reduce thickness of coupling rod to half thickness in the region of the front wheel crankpin fixing. 3 - Recess the front crankpin slightly into the face of the front driver. 4 - Use a half nut or a thin soldered washer to secure coupling rod to front crankpin rather than the usual full thickness Romford washer. HTH Geoff Comet Models Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Geoff: would you consider the possibility of producing castings for the "Princess" at all? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 24, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 24, 2013 I have sent an order of to comet for the cylinders motion set cross head along with some shed codes today only just read the above posts may have to use some ideas from geoff but will have to wait to the bits turn up. I have managed to lose a bit from the bracket from the kit and hadn't noticed to today so the comet bit are now needed. I will second horsetan request for any castings for the princess royal. As I would like to build 46205 at some point in the future. One suggestion would be Cylinder vacuum release valves for one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artisan100 Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Geoff: would you consider the possibility of producing castings for the "Princess" at all? Which ones? Geoff 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 25, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2013 (edited) Small list Chimney,gravity fed auto oilers smoke box door, (cylinders vacuum release valves ether with or without the steam pipes), and just because I don't now how good I could build one,a nice casting of the fire box boiler joint. Have I missed anything horsetan Edited July 25, 2013 by farren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 ....a dome and a top feed wouldn't come amiss either.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 25, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2013 Would the smoke box door for 46212 be worth looking at doing for LMS days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Would the smoke box door for 46212 ..... Use a Stanier one. Remove the central boss. Add eleven "dog fasteners" around the door perimeter. Job done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 27, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2013 the parts have just turned up from comet along with name and transfers from fox. so will be able to do some work on the the princess now the cross bar is a lot smaller then the one that came with the kit i would say the comet cross head would fit in the grove of the one from the kit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 29, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 29, 2013 I been applying some fox transfers today the yellow lines on the tender on one side and will have to try and put the black ones on top latter should I apply a coat of varnish on before applying the black transfers or just hope they stay put Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 8, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2013 after using fox transfers i have decided i will stall away from their two part lining, i think most of the lining needs to come back of and try and get some rub on instead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 8, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2013 Has. Anyone hand lined yellow and if so what humbro paint is closest to the yellow brand used. Feeling brave might dig out the bow pen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 The close-up shot emphasises to me just how undersized the cabside windows are Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) Just come back to this topic after a long absence. The photo problem is quite simple. You are uploading to the gallery then linking to the gallery image when you post here. It might seem the obvious thing to do, but it just doesn't work. Don't do this, just upload the photos directly into the topic post (use "More Reply Options" to get the image upload facility). Nick Edited August 8, 2013 by buffalo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 8, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 8, 2013 Cheers for that nick i'll give that a go when I can get on the pc the better half hogging it at the moment. Horsetan Now you have pointed that out its going to bug me and with out a major streep down and rebuild its going to keep doing it. Shuffle's of muttering under breath to the pub. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 (edited) That was the first thing I noticed when comparing the ProScale cab with the much more modern Judith Edge etching Edited August 8, 2013 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 9, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) just like that Edited August 9, 2013 by farren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Hello Farran, could it be that you seem to be sending your photos through a second party. The gallery, then into your thread?? Just come back to this topic after a long absence. The photo problem is quite simple. You are uploading to the gallery then linking to the gallery image when you post here. It might seem the obvious thing to do, but it just doesn't work. Don't do this, just upload the photos directly into the topic post (use "More Reply Options" to get the image upload facility). Nick Invisible ink!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 SAM_0256.JPG just like that The lake looks very red, what have you used? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 9, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) hi Ozzyo yes you did suggest in porting straight to the post first from the PC but it was the more reply options which help so thanks to both of you. the colour is humbro NO 20 crimson gloss it dose look more red in the pics then it is, but with you and horsetan I am starting to think it might be best and start again but first i might use the bow pen as a practice and see how i get on. i was feeling lazy half price paints from model zone and my compressor,and air brush are at my dads until I've moved house. and after doing some work on the valve gear today i have only gone and put the valve rods upside down and wrong side round. After having some pondering juice (new castle Brown ale is the red that bad I've pictures were the red looks almost post office with I am guessing bleaching from the sun etc if the model was based just before a overall & repaint Edited August 9, 2013 by farren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 The lake looks very red, what have you used? Well, he has sweated blood over it.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) the colour is humbro NO 20 crimson gloss it dose look more red in the pics then it is, but with you and horsetan I am starting to think it might be best and start again but first i might use the bow pen as a practice and see how i get on. i was feeling lazy half price paints from model zone and my compressor,and air brush are at my dads until I've moved house. After having some pondering juice (new castle Brown ale is the red that bad I've pictures were the red looks almost post office with I am guessing bleaching from the sun etc if the model was based just before a overall & repaint if your compressor is over at your dads but you still want to repaint your Princess try a can of paint from Halfords called Rover Damask Red. Used over a red oxide base it's just about spot on. OzzyO. EDIT for PS. if your going to paint any large surface with a red based colour use a red oxide primer, as it gives a better colour to the top coat. But on buffer beams use a light grey. Edited August 10, 2013 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted August 10, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) Cheers for that oz I'll pick some up over the week what would you suggest for lining any in the humbro rage as that's all you are getting in leicester and would prefer not to have to make an order for just one tinlet of paint. Edited August 10, 2013 by farren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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