Weathering Services and DCC sound fitting as well

[Barry O]

Well it's certainly dirty but everything appears to be weathered with just one colour - black. Where's the dusty colour on the wheels and lower body side of the Western and what's with the coal dust on the windscreen?

It has brown road dust along the bottom of the bodyshell and on the wheels- it a darker brown to match the colours I have in the various photographs of the real thing - can't get the lighting right to show the difference - and the windscreens on the real photos are covered in oil and dirt - although I haven't quite finished those yet.Thats where the "active" bit takes over as the dust will shake off to reveal - dirty windows.  I will check these before it goes back to its owner - if it hasn't come off I will then gently brush the surplus off - in reality the photos are a bit too up front and personal - as the effects on the model are fine.

 

If you look at the close up the colours are closer to what is actually on the model - there is hardly any "coal" dust on the model at all - and it does have faded (whiter) patches...

 

Trying to get a better photo of the model makes it look like the attached..

 

what I really need is a nice sunny day or a brighter camera light...

 

Edited January 6, 2014 by Barry O

[Barry O]

Of course I could resort to using brighter coloured powders... however I think that I will stick to what the client likes. However, revisiting the photos reveals - brown not black..

 

 

Unfortunately the camera can "lie" when subtle tones are involved - 

 

- just to brighten it up a bit - hope you find the colour differential easier to see Ruston.

 

 

[Barry O]

Sunny day - different colours..

 

and the same shot  as the sun went in...

 

 

To the normal eye the white just shows through (representing the Laira depot coach washer damage...)

 

The windscreens have now actively weathered to remove excess dust to give the fly/dirt covered screen with the odd bit os windscreen wiper smear..

 

 

I did have to clean off a bit of ink on the nose due to fingerprint problems at the bottom edge of the yellow - out with the cotton wool bud and a bit of water ....and it is done

 

 

[ozzyo]

Hello Barry O, all,

 

thanks for the PM to let me know that you have posted in your thread but as I follow it I know that you have posted.

 

This was the cab end that was mentioned, with all the coal dust on it,

 

So you have used the active weathering on this cab to remove the coal dust, I see that you also changed the head code at the same time!

 

In one of your posts you mentioned about oil on the windscreen, with this photo attached,

 

If your looking at the blue/purple cast on the windscreen it was some sort of coating to help reduce glare?

 

You have mentioned that your photos had been affected by the lighting conditions, you also mentioned that you have a digital SLR you could try adjusting the colour balance to suit the lighting. For the type of work that your trying to show you want the best colour balance that you can get. After all we can only look at your work by the photos. 

 

As it looks like you are using Rmweb to advertise your wares please expect to receive comments good or bad.

 

OzzyO.

 

[Barry O]

Hello Barry O, all,

 

thanks for the PM to let me know that you have posted in your thread but as I follow it I know that you have posted.

 

This was the cab end that was mentioned, with all the coal dust on it,

cab details western (1280x853).jpg

 

So you have used the active weathering on this cab to remove the coal dust, I see that you also changed the head code at the same time!

sunny day nose close up (2000x1854) (1500x1391).jpg

 

In one of your posts you mentioned about oil on the windscreen, with this photo attached,

Western - Copy.JPG

 

If your looking at the blue/purple cast on the windscreen it was some sort of coating to help reduce glare?

 

You have mentioned that your photos had been affected by the lighting conditions, you also mentioned that you have a digital SLR you could try adjusting the colour balance to suit the lighting. For the type of work that your trying to show you want the best colour balance that you can get. After all we can only look at your work by the photos. 

 

As it looks like you are using Rmweb to advertise your wares please expect to receive comments good or bad.

 

OzzyO.

OzzyO,

 

I don't mind comments - they help everyone to improve but it is nice to see someone say the colours aren't just black

 

It is unfortunate that I only got chance to photograph one end of the loco before it went dark again - but they are both the same -if it isn't too dark tomorrow I will photo that end (must admit didn't even realise the headcodes were different...doh!)

 

I have other photos of the loco in service - the windscreens in the shot I included does have the anti glare tint but do have dirt on the originals - downsizing them for web use makes this much less clear. As shown

 

 

which is what I was asked to provide.

Edited January 8, 2014 by Barry O

[Barry O]

Just for OzzyO - 

 

tother end - taken this morning in very bright sunlight..

 

 

of course I could spend ages playing with the colours on the photo - but I haven't...

 

and moving on to the latest items being weathered

 

 

and this one is covered in coal dust as per the  closest colour photos I have of US coal Hoppers...

Edited January 9, 2014 by Barry O

[Ruston]

I don't mind comments - they help everyone to improve but it is nice to see someone say the colours aren't just black

 

Barry,

 

I said it was black simply because that's how it looks to me and and the stuff on the windscreen looked nothing like the dirt I have ever seen on any diesel windscreen.

 

I do all my own weathering so you've not lost a customer in me but if I can see these things then so can others, who may be potential customers, and they are also likely to make the same judgements when they've only got the same photos to go on as I have. If you post poorly photographed and unfinished work then expect criticism because if it really did look like it did in the first photos I wouldn't pay for it, even if I didn't do my own weathering.

 

I wouldn't normally criticise any modeller's work but when you're charging people their hard-earned for a service I don't see any difference in criticising that service and the criticism that is given on this forum to RTR manufacturer's new releases etc.

Edited January 9, 2014 by Ruston

[Barry O]

Barry,

 

I said it was black simply because that's how it looks to me and and the stuff on the windscreen looked nothing like the dirt I have ever seen on any diesel windscreen.

 

I do all my own weathering so you've not lost a customer in me but if I can see these things then so can others, who may be potential customers, and they are also likely to make the same judgements when they've only got the same photos to go on as I have. If you post poorly photographed and unfinished work then expect criticism because if it really did look like it did in the first photos I wouldn't pay for it, even if I didn't do my own weathering.

 

I wouldn't normally criticise any modeller's work but when you're charging people their hard-earned for a service I don't see any difference in criticising that service and the criticism that is given on this forum to RTR manufacturer's new releases etc.

Ruston

 

thanks for that - as you are aware I use activeweathering - as such the model in effect weathers itself - so saying its unfinished is proof that you seem unable to understand the process... the idea is that the weathering is not fixed in time - it changes subtley over many years ( I have examples from 30 years ago which are still weathering nicely) in this case i have done nothing else to the loco but leave it in a box - albeit I did have to remove a finger smear off one end.

 

if anything I have learnt that you need to have professional level photographs or else do what most of my customers do - see it at first hand. BUT do you now see browns as well as black in more recent photos?

[Ruston]

Ruston

 

thanks for that - as you are aware I use activeweathering - as such the model in effect weathers itself - so saying its unfinished is proof that you seem unable to understand the process... the idea is that the weathering is not fixed in time - it changes subtley over many years ( I have examples from 30 years ago which are still weathering nicely) in this case i have done nothing else to the loco but leave it in a box - albeit I did have to remove a finger smear off one end.

 

 

Correct, I don't understand it and this is why...

 

Locomotives and stock start off clean and shiny and become dirty and worn through use, damage, the effects of weather etc. and, unless they are cleaned or recieve maintenance and works attention, they become dirtier and more worn and damaged over time - the apperance of these natural and work-induced effects do not become more subtle over time, they become worse and more pronounced. Leave something out in the elements for long enough without attention and it will lose its paint and become a rusty or rotten heap.

 

Obviously a plastic or brass model that's sat in a box in someone's shed or cannot rust and isn't going to get covered in oil stains or coal and brake dust so we apply these effects artificially. Some of these effects aren't 100% permanent, such as powders, and can come off to some extent with handling. So, if anything, they become cleaner in parts and, whilst I agree that some of the effects can become more subtle, a model cannot "weather itself" over time  because no more dirt or rust can gather if it's made of plastic and kept in a box and we don't apply further artificial effects- it can only become cleaner in parts or the effects more subtle.

 

So I don't get the idea that this is 'active' weathering. It seems to be unfinished to me, especially if a lot is applied, such as on the Western's windcreen in the original photo, and the customer has to wait for it to become more subtle by handling the model or waiting for gravity to help out. Why not just finish the model with the required subtle effect to begin with and handle with care?

[Barry O]

Ruston

 

To you its unfinished - to my client its excellent - horses for courses and I have yet to have anything returned by clients as of this moment in time. And I can always return it to its original condition with the use of some water, cif and a light rub down..

 

I won't say any more on active weathering as its seems that you can't understand the whole concept - perhaps you could try asking Mike Edge as he actually coined the phrase.

 

Barry O

[Barry O]

o photos as its too dark but this can be a handy tip

 

When weathering Bachmann ( or any) Tanker with brights shiny tie rods etc - take a thin piece of plasticard, push it in between the rods and the tank and paint the rods a grey/black colour - it helps when adding top coats of weathering - remember on some of the older tankers the restraining cables were tar(?) covered steel wire. When dry - remove the plasticard before weathering. 

 

If at all possible colour match it with a good colour photo..

 

 

edited to include correct material

Edited January 14, 2014 by Barry O

[Barry O]

Always nice to see a happy customer

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/57058-5761/

 

 

Many thanks to Davey4270!

[Barry O]

Having finished 12 On3 coal hoppers I have undertaken a nice, fairly easy commission. Petrol tankers in O gauge are always interesting to weather but are a pain if you can't get the tanks apart from the chassis meaning access to the bottom half of the tanks is limited even in O gauge. As the owner is happy with them I attach a couple of shots for perusal...

 

 

and a shot from the other end..

 

[Barry O]

Remember these..

 

 

the venerable Triang Murgatroyds Bogei Chlorine tank wagon.

 

I have a number of these to weather at the moment so here is a shot of the first one I have finished ..

 

 

and here a shot of  a clean one and a dirty one.

 

 

 

Bless triang - these tankers can be stripped down so that the tank can be weathered and the chassis done separately. Which makes life so much easier. As does a great shot of one of these in one of teh Dave Larkin wagons books.

 

In this case I may have to go back and clean off some of the weathering as it has been decided to make these "slightly" dirty..

 

Enjoy

 

[Barry O]

I have two EM gauge Duchesses on the stocks

 

 

 

City of Manchester is just in for weathering,

Duchess of Rutland is in for sound and weathering. 

 

 

City of Manchester is being weathered first as I am looking for a Duchess sound chip which sounds like a Duchess. (any ideas?)

 

 

This is the City clean and now..

 

 

As the owner doesn't like this version of the BR livery it has now been ink/watered and powdered...

 

The firebox has had some more work as I find the dirt seems to stick around the firebox/footplate join.. apologies I have had to lighten this photo to pick out some of the detail

 

 

A close up of the running gear..

 

 

and finally a closer view of the tender top..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Barry O]

Forgot to mention I will be joining Mr Edge and Nicktoix demonstrating at Bolton the Sunday... bring your stock and have a go...or just use some of my "learning" pieces...

[Barry O]

The next couple of commissions include fitting sound decoders and light weathering of two EM regauged Bachmann diesels..

 

First up a Class 25....in green, Legomanbiffo chip and a light weathering..

 

 

these are representations of some of those new fangled diesels so can't be too dirty... but the exhaust area on the roof needs to have diesel "crud" around it..

 

 

and also an E_E type 4 (Class 40)

 

 

and the roof

 

 

and the nose end..

 

 

 

 

[the penguin of doom]

Hi BarryO.

 

How long does it take you to apply the weathering on your loco's?

 

Thanks.

 

Sean.

[Barry O]

Sean

 

depends on a number of factors..

1 how dirty does it need to be?

2 is it steam or diesel? (affects the ink/water colours)

3 have we got a good colour photograph of the loco to be weathered/ If yes fine - if no then find a similar one.

4 How hot and dry is it?

 

Generally about 40 minutes to an hour to get a medium dirt level - possibly shorter if its a hot dry day as the ink dries faster. 

 

Add to that prep time (finding photographs etc) and also clean up time  - not as much as with an air brush but still takes time.

 

Does that help?

 

Barry

[Barry O]

Sean,

 

the Duchess above took a bit longer and these times are for 4mm, 7mm takes about 4 times the time to do...

 

probably quicker with an airbrush but the process I use suits me and my clients...

 

barry

[Barry O]

At last some steam engines..

 

First up a Duchess - Rutland as built by Mike Edge and painted and lined by Coachman a long, long time ago..

 

 

as this is a loco shed cleaned loco you need to get the dirt to stick in places you tend not to clean.... like the firebox/footplate joint..

 

 

and a bit on the tender...

 

 

and also a D10 - its again built by Mike Edge from a Judith Edge Kit. He also supplied a black and white photo of the loco..

 

 

and  a close up of the smokebox area..

 

 

 

 

[Barry O]

I have weathered a number of these:

 

 

15 down 9 to go - they didn't weather themselves while I have been away so they need to be completed. They do make a change to 4mm models, being On3 they are big enough to get hold of but not too heavy (like O gauge diesels) to handle.

 

The inks stick well to the paint (could be car undercoat) so making sure the remaining 9 are very lightly weathered could be fun. 

 

 

also recently arrived are a Duchess in Em along with two Peaks.....watch this space!

[Barry O]

Some different railway models have been through the weathering shops now that house painting and travelling have been completed..

 

I don't see many GWR locos but this one is now on its way to a RMWebber..(or it will be tomorrow)  A Bachmann "small" Prairie with a "gentle" weathering job..

 

 

 

and a close up of the motion work and the bottom edge of the tank..

 

and a Peak... regauged to EM and repainted by Graham Varley

 

The duck egg blue used for the side grills was never a good idea.. as soon as these locos moved any distance they became fairly dirty

 

and a bit of roof muck

 

 

and something different. A duchess tender - again painted (and built) by Graham Varley.. I was asked to match it to a pre-weathered duchess engine

 

This had been weathered using black paint so always an interesting task! (Loco was built by Mike Edge who has regauged it to EM and painted by Coachman a long time ago! no idea who weathered it)

 

Loco and tender

 

 

and now the tender

 

 

and a closer look at the build up of coal dust, oil and general dirt around the tender top...

 

 

All of these are off to their respective owners..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Barry O]

And to round off my latest batch of loco weathering.. A gresley V2..

 

and a bit of close up detail

 

 

and a Scot - from a Comet kit

 

 

and a bit of boiler detail..

 

 

both of these have been built and painted by Graham Varley and are destined for Carlisle..

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Barry O]

Website updated.

Busy with some more On3 uppers, pictures of an A4 will be added today.