Down Ampney Layout Build & Workshop Thread (For All Things 7mm FS & 0-16.5)

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi again CME

I can see where Donw is coming from re the "mortar"

as you say though, it's a cruel enlargement and probably a view you wouldn't see from a normal viewpoint / distance

 

You could always try running some thinned black acrylic paint into the gaps between stones

- maybe just in some areas?

I's also be tempted to introduce some moss or ivy growing along the gaps too....

 

I always used to build my buildings using plasticard with plenty of relief

i.e. Slaters or Wills - I still use these materials, but I do look at buildings and sometimes think

"Do we really need that much relief?"

 

I often use this relief as part of my painting - 

using the mortar courses to run diluted paint into,

or applying excess black or white/grey mortar, then wiping the excess paint away etc..

 

However, I think we don't usually perceive much relief when looking at say,

a brick wall - we know the mortar is at a lower relief than the brick faces

but can we actually see this from any other position except really close to it?

 

On another point. I always thought the Wills stone walling would be too small for 7mm

but a few years back, at Telford, there was a really nice O gauge layout called "Y Cae"

This layout used a lot of the Wills material, and it looked great

It didn't appear under scale at all

 

Looks spot on for Down Ampney too

 

Marc

 

 

Hi Marc,

 

Thanks for the reply, the suggestions and kind words, always appreciated.

 

I like your thinking and by and large I agree.

 

The Skytrex walling looks good from a distance/if only viewed from one side - as you say.

 

Also as you have suggested - in other 'off camera' areas - I have wicked in some thinned acrylic and/or gouache, not sure that I like the effect though as it darkens the walling (I am trying to represent it as bathed in light even if the other side of the field is under a black thunderous cloud LOL!).

 

Moss and Ivy is a great idea (thanks) - I shall leave that for the layout proper, yet experiment on the test piece when time permits.

 

I think that you are right about the bricks and mortar (and stonework too) issue, in real life I dont think that we do - when viewing from a scale distance - perceive, or at least 'see', the relief/texture (our eyes have a blind spot and the brain fills in the gap with what it thinks is appropriate/similar), yet when we view a model, which is often, in effect, suspension of disbelief, we 'expect' to see detail/relief (also as modellers, as a badge of honour, we often feel the need to add such details too).

 

Like you I use Wills' 4mm scale products for 7mm as I think that the scale out about right. Eg the larger wall at the back of Down Ampney Sidings, when used in 4mm that Wills product is only really suitable for certain locations, such as modelling Welsh stone (Nth) or perhaps Cornwall stone, otherwise it looks too coarse or over-scale to my eyes.

 

For now the Skytrex product is the main contender, I have yet to look at PLM Castaways' product though and I have a few thoughts on various methods of making walling myself, yet I have to say that the Skytrex product captures the look even if it cant be viewed (favourably) from both sides.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited October 29, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

Back to the more mundane - for you guys' benefit I like to mix up the modelling with the mundane to add a bit of varity.

 

Here are the posts (in a little more detail) that we have used for the garden section, which are a mixture of those left over from my dad's H&BLR (rectangular) and the modified trampoline poles (in the second photo down they're buried on the higher top section of the garden) - all with steel plates welded atop (by dad as his welding skills are much more current than mine) which from memory are 8" x 4" in size.

 

The first photo (using the ex trampoline poles) is after the problematic - rotten - boards had been removed, these boards werent so bad, yet we had to bite the bullet and rip them out for the sake of the longer term. In the foreground there was to be a station area which required a nice junction and a steep gradient so as to access. After the issue with the rotten boards and as the garden, when the main bridge which crosses the path is down, would be effectively 'sealed off' (making the outdoor station awkward to operate) it was decided to not continue to develop this aspect of the layout, and with a heavy heart, we ripped those boards out too (the steel frames on which they were mounted are to be recycled and used for the Fiddle Yard boards).

 

On the upside and still under consideration a second 'micro' station/yard may be added onto the end of the Fiddle Yard. If that is possible this layout will be modular and portable (so as to link in with Draycott) hopefully as well as the Fiddle Yard any operator there can also have fun shunting this micro-layout, time will tell how this all pans out.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

 

All Photos and drawings etc.  are the copyright of the author/photographer 2008-2013.....

 

......

Edited October 30, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[marc smith]

Not mundane at all sir
Nice to see the "nuts & bolts" - how everything is being built
and how it's all coming together...

Have you used Gordon Gravett's method of leveling your supports?

In his Vol 1 book of 7mm modelling he shows how to achieve a level trackbed,
using a garden hosepipe;-

Fill the hose with water and hold both ends vertically -
leaving just a centimetre or 2 of air at each end....

Leaving one end at your "datum" - perhaps held in place with a clamp
you then place markers at key positions
and check the level with the free end of the hosepipe - genius!

Gordon also suggests using "Metpost" fencing components to create anchors for the trackbed...
EDIT: But of course, if you have had those equally suitable trampoline parts lying around... perfect

Would be nice to see an overall plan of the whole area,
and how it relates to the garage
I assume you have part of the layout on each side of the garage?

Cheers again
Marc

 

Edited October 31, 2013 by marc smith

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Not mundane at all sir

Nice to see the "nuts & bolts" - how everything is being built

and how it's all coming together...

 

Have you used Gordon Gravett's method of leveling your supports?

 

In his Vol 1 book of 7mm modelling he shows how to achieve a level trackbed,

using a garden hosepipe;-

 

Fill the hose with water and hold both ends vertically -

leaving just a centimetre or 2 of air at each end....

 

Leaving one end at your "datum" - perhaps held in place with a clamp

you then place markers at key positions

and check the level with the free end of the hosepipe - genius!

 

Gordon also suggests using "Metpost" fencing components to create anchors for the trackbed...

EDIT: But of course, if you have had those equally suitable trampoline parts lying around... perfect

 

Would be nice to see an overall plan of the whole area,

and how it relates to the garage

I assume you have part of the layout on each side of the garage?

 

Cheers again

Marc

 

 

Hi Marc,

 

Many thanks for the kind words.

 

We used - cheap - lazer guide/level, yet we used the hosepipe method on the H&BLR though (along with a long straight/level steel and spirit level and a prayer or two!).

 

I think that GG's idea is quite an ancient one, I have the feeling that the Roman's used a similar system in that water + gravity finds the level, simple and wonderfully effective.

 

The issue I have noted with Metposts are - especially on clay soil like ours - is that they can come 'loose' (although the rest of the structure should hold firm).

 

If the steel and Trampoline posts had not been available I think that lenghts of 'soil' pipe with concrete poured into them (providing a good base so as to bolt to) would have been the preferred option (I hope that helps others thinking of venturing out of doors).

 

Yes you are right Marc, the system will go into either side of the garage and the scenic boards are made, yet none laid yet and the Fiddle Yard boards are partially made. The garage interior is below the level of the ground/garden, that with a raised (mainline) a lowered NG line, 5mm of track foam, 9mm ply etc etc. means that we have yet to establish a datum for the garage sections - help my brain hurts! LOL!!

 

I would love to post a track plan, yet havnt fully decided on the final cut/version for the scenic section - I will Post more when time permits.

 

In the meantime all that I can say is that the layout is a 'U'  (Casette Fiddle Yard - via Garden - to Scenic Section) all very simple really and a trick learnt from the Rev. Peter Denny, in that the trains leave the FY and - if operating on ones own - one can turn around step to t'other side of the garage and then the train arrives in the Scenic Section.

 

We would have liked roundy roundy continous run, yet the garage/garden combination is too small in terms of the radii required and not flat so.......having said this it may be possible to have a 4' radius curve on a removable board (between the Scenic Section and the FY) for running-in locos etc (again only time will tell). I had planned to make one end of Down Ampney with an over bridge (probably both ends - a cliche I know, yet it helps to hide the entry and exits and in real life would have been feasible) and the station run-round/headshunt going under the bridge a short way, this could then be used for the temporary line/board (or expansion of the Down Ampney if ever when I win the lottery! LOL!!).

 

I hope that helps for now, thanks again for the interest.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited October 31, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Donw]

Don Neale rather famous garden line used the base of an old greenhouse for a shed with the FY one side and the Station the other there was a good write up about how it was worked in the G0G Gazette. In his case the two enter at opposite ends so a link for a continous run was feasible.

Don

 

edit because I think there was an e at the end of Neale

Edited October 31, 2013 by Donw

[marc smith]

Re fiddle yard cassettes,
On another recent O gauge thread, someone mentioned a useful piece of info;

O gauge cassettes can be made using pieces of plastic square-section guttering
I've seen this in practice, at exhibition
and it looked simple and useful
the guttering having nice high sides to protect O gauge stock

I mention it here because I know many modellers like to re-use & recycle materials when & where we can....
So, once again, Keep your eyes peeled for offcuts and odds & ends when passing builders skips

Edited November 1, 2013 by marc smith

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Don Neale rather famous garden line used the base of an old greenhouse for a shed with the FY one side and the Station the other there was a good write up about how it was worked in the G0G Gazette. In his case the two enter at opposite ends so a link for a continous run was feasible.

Don

 

edit because I think there was an e at the end of Neale

 

 

Re fiddle yard cassettes,

On another recent O gauge thread, someone mentioned a useful piece of info;

 

O gauge cassettes can be made using pieces of plastic square-section guttering

I've seen this in practice, at exhibition

and it looked simple and useful

the guttering having nice high sides to protect O gauge stock

 

I mention it here because I know many modellers like to re-use & recycle materials when & where we can....

So, once again, Keep your eyes peeled for offcuts and odds & ends when passing builders skips

 

 

 

Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for the info guys, my Gazette just arrived today.

 

I seem to rememeber seeing something similar Marc (nice idea), was that in the Gazette also?

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited November 2, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

Before I demo the rebuild (of the building) of Down Ampney (garden section) I thought that I would Post some photos of the 'rotten boards'.

 

They were just a year or so old at this stage.

 

The photos with the fencing on the rhs of the garden are to demo the new fence and the - then removed established conifer hedge (which, sadly, developed a disease and had to be removed). The first photo of this area, in fact, shows the new fence and new hedging, but with the rotten boards removed - at this stage it seemed never ending as the garden was being remodelled as well as building the railway (almost twice). Without the help of family and friends we would never have gotten this far.

 

I hope that clarifies the story so far and rounds off the downward trend - looking forward to more positive Postings and progress.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

 

All photos are the copyright of the author/photographer 2011-2013

Edited November 2, 2013 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

There hasnt been much time for any model making of late, due to a loss in the family and the usual mundane day to day challenges (that we all have to face), a few bits here and there though but even this Post is made in haste as I realised that I had neglected this Thread (in addition with any garage/garden line then progress tends to be seasonal/fair weather anyway).

 

I hope to Post more photos of the garden section in the better weather - as my digi camera isnt waterproof and it hasnt stopped raining for 6 weeks or so plus there hasnt been the opportunity.

 

I do want to share some diagrams though - with reference to the remodelling of the outdoor junction and wanting to simplify and K.I.S.S - my doodles are herewith in preparation for putting down track etc. This has come about since the removal/remodelling of the outdoor branch line as outlined in Post # 27).

 

I had planned to use trailing points (2 x crossovers) - so as to, in effect, 'protect' the main line - yet as uncoupling and shunting in the garden would be a chore, this idea is now out of favour becuase, when trains run into Down Ampney and back down the RAF branch, in reality it will be best/easiest to route them back to the fiddle-yard and then back to Down Ampney again. This will give the illusion that they have worked to the Creamery/RAF Down Ampney (before heading back into Down Ampney proper).

 

I am still unsure about temp storage of trains outdoors - but at the very least trains will be able to pass here (I may install a through station at a later date).

 

In brief I think that, by and large, Option: C is preferred (as space is limited in the garage to accomodate this cross-over, there will be two more crossovers in the garage though) and then if not Option: D is second.

 

More later.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

 

 

This photograph is copyright of the author/photographer 2014

Edited February 1, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Rods_of_Revolution]

Hi CME,

 

I have only just found this thread, though I've been following, as you know, on the Western Thunder forum. I especially love the weathering on your wagons, that close up of the mineral wagon on the first page could easily be a prototype detail photograph!

 

I certainly think options C and D are the best, I can imagine the more pointwork in the garage the easier to maintain and more reliable it will be.

 

Cheers,

 

Jack

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi CME,

 

I have only just found this thread, though I've been following, as you know, on the Western Thunder forum. I especially love the weathering on your wagons, that close up of the mineral wagon on the first page could easily be a prototype detail photograph!

 

I certainly think options C and D are the best, I can imagine the more pointwork in the garage the easier to maintain and more reliable it will be.

 

Cheers,

 

Jack

Hello Jack,

 

Great to hear from you.,

 

Thanks very much for the kind words - they're much appreciated.

 

Indeed 'C' and 'D' seem, by all acounts, to be the best and easiest options.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

[marc smith]

Hi CME,

Sorry to hear your family have had a bad time

I'm pleased to hear that you are getting some modelling done though
That's more than I seem to be able to do lately!

I think I'd agree with Jack, re pointwork being indoors
but if that's not a problem, option B looks fine

I still think option C looks as if it flows nicely though
Keep us posted matey

Best

 

Marc

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi CME,

 

Sorry to hear your family have had a bad time

 

I'm pleased to hear that you are getting some modelling done though

That's more than I seem to be able to do lately!

 

I think I'd agree with Jack, re pointwork being indoors

but if that's not a problem, option B looks fine

 

I still think option C looks as if it flows nicely though

Keep us posted matey

 

Best

 

Marc

Hi Marc,

 

Great to hear from you.

 

Thanks for the kind words too.

 

Little time for modelling of late - again - hope to remedy that though - as it's, most of the time, very therapeutic and a nice little break from the mundane.

 

I think that, when the weather is better and the new fence is up - yet another one, on t'other side (LOL) - then I will see if Option: C works/fits in reality.

 

In the meantime, here is a couple of photos of a long standing WIP my Lima Mk1's (as some visual interest) - with virtually everything altered.

 

Thanks again Marc - keep in touch.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos are the copyright of the author/photographer 2002-2014

Edited February 17, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

This week I have been listening to McAlmont and Butler!

 

Not a lot of time for model-making of late and the garden/garage area has been wet and cold, but here is a taster of the Wholesalers/Grain - Store for Down Ampney (from a SBLC kit).

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

 

Photographer is the copyright of the photographer and author 2014 etc.

 

 

Edited March 6, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[81A Oldoak]

Hi All,

 

This week I have been listening to McASBLC_Grain_Store (1rs).jpglmont and Butler!

 

Not a lot of time for model-making of late and the garden/garage area has been wet and cold, but here is a taster of the Wholesalers/Grain - Store for Down Ampney (from a SBLC kit).

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

 

Photographer is the copyright of the photographer and author 2014 etc.

That will be fun to paint and weather.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Chris,

 

Indeed, I havnt thought it through yet, just how to tackle the model/and what medium to use.

 

I shall start with washing it in warm soapy water! LOL!!

 

Thanks for looking and Posting.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited March 6, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Rods_of_Revolution]

That's a really nice model, the knackered roof and corrugated sheet repair really contribute to the rural station feel of it!

 

I'm sure the Mk1 will be cracking once complete!

 

Regards,

 

Jack

[CME and Bottlewasher]

That's a really nice model, the knackered roof and corrugated sheet repair really contribute to the rural station feel of it!

 

I'm sure the Mk1 will be cracking once complete!

 

Regards,

 

Jack

Thanks Jack,

 

The 'kit' was all of 10 parts (1 x Van Body, 3 x Sleepers and 6 x Breeze-block pillars) - it took about 20 mins to assemble LOL!

 

All nicely moulded and as you say very rural - painting it will be fun.

 

The coaches are an on going project - I will get there in the end ;-)

 

Kindest,

 

CME

[David Siddall]

...here is a taster of the Wholesalers/Grain - Store for Down Ampney (from a SBLC kit).

I'm liking that! Inspiration for a ancient grounded North Eastern van body I think :-)

 

David

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I'm liking that! Inspiration for a ancient grounded North Eastern van body I think :-)

 

David

Hi David,

 

Thanks - I think that you could be right, but I havent given its origins much thought, it is based on a prototype in a field in Devon.

 

Both of the grounded van bodies I have could be, one at least, from further afield than the WR, my excuse is that they failed here and were marked 'last trip' or similar ;-)

 

It's aquired a coat of primer today.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited March 9, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Rods_of_Revolution]

That's how the grounded van at Malmesbury ended up there. There were a couple of condemned Iron Minks sat in the sidings, one of which ended up next to the goods shed stood on bricks in a similar manner to the kit above.

 

Strangely one end of Malmesbury goods shed was of timber construction (the other end being stone). The Iron Mink sat at the timbered end, but unfortunately a rake of wagons was pushed out of the shed with their side doors open, this resulted in the timbered end being demolished and collapsing onto the Mink. I assume the Mink was damaged beyond repair as in subsequent photographs the Mink has gone!

 

That's my GWR branchline anecdote of the day :-)

 

Cheers,

 

Jack

[CME and Bottlewasher]

That's how the grounded van at Malmesbury ended up there. There were a couple of condemned Iron Minks sat in the sidings, one of which ended up next to the goods shed stood on bricks in a similar manner to the kit above.

 

Strangely one end of Malmesbury goods shed was of timber construction (the other end being stone). The Iron Mink sat at the timbered end, but unfortunately a rake of wagons was pushed out of the shed with their side doors open, this resulted in the timbered end being demolished and collapsing onto the Mink. I assume the Mink was damaged beyond repair as in subsequent photographs the Mink has gone!

 

That's my GWR branchline anecdote of the day :-)

 

Cheers,

 

Jack

Nice one Jack, great little anecdote and really helpful in terms of setting a realistic scene.

 

When info, isnt readily available, I endeavour to get into the mind of the people operating the railway and local businesses and ask, with my experience (and leaning heavily on my dad's wisdom and experiences), what would I do/how would I do x,y or z?

 

Your research, Jack, helps greatly in this regard - thank you.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

Edited March 10, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher

[CME and Bottlewasher]

As a quick thought....

 

David, the Grain-store van body could well be - upon closer inspection - one of the 12T BR Van's (circa 1949) built based on the GWR's design, in ply.

 

This makes it a more modern van than could have been on Down Ampney, yet, not to worry, as it could easliy have been involved in a rough shunting accident/derailment and beyond economical repair and thus used as a grounded body.....

 

I hope that helps.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

[marc smith]

Hi CME
Glad to see there's some progress on Down Ampney

Re your grounded van body
A nice little tip on "distressing"
I've done this in 4mm, but should work in 7mm just as well;

Why not model some distressed tarpaulin on the roof?

Scribe a couple of planks into the surface of the roof - just in a small area somewhere in the middle
Cover the roof in fine tissue paper - to give you the texture of canvas
BUT - tear a hole out of the tissue around where you scribed the planks...

Fold the tissue down, to represent tarp that has torn & flapped out of place
Paint the "planks" a nice, faded colour
Use dilute PVA to make the tissue tarp permanent...

Just a thought

Cheers

Marc

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi CME

Glad to see there's some progress on Down Ampney

 

Re your grounded van body

A nice little tip on "distressing"

I've done this in 4mm, but should work in 7mm just as well;

 

Why not model some distressed tarpaulin on the roof?

 

Scribe a couple of planks into the surface of the roof - just in a small area somewhere in the middle

Cover the roof in fine tissue paper - to give you the texture of canvas

BUT - tear a hole out of the tissue around where you scribed the planks...

 

Fold the tissue down, to represent tarp that has torn & flapped out of place

Paint the "planks" a nice, faded colour

Use dilute PVA to make the tissue tarp permanent...

 

Just a thought

 

Cheers

 

Marc

Hi Marc,

 

Thanks for Posting and for the hints and tips - what a wonderful idea.

 

Yet, I am not sure if I can carve the planks - easily - into the roof, as the model is resin, the technique would be easier on the Slaters or Parkside grounded van body I think due to the softer injection moulded plastic.

 

In addition, the roof has some nicely moulded detail in terms of 'tacked on ply' and 'battening' etc. so I would quite like to show that and perhaps paint the timber in various - weathered - shades, then dab on a mask, with a top-coat of faded black (grey) and then remove the mask to flake off most of the grey to reveal the wood underneath....that's the theory anyway LOL!

 

I would like to try out your techniques on a patched together - at the end of its life - vehicle that is still, just, in service.

 

BTW have you any photos of yours (please feel free to Post them on here)?

 

Thanks again,

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

Edited March 12, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher