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Dallam Sidings (Warrington) - N Gauge WCML 2001


87023Velocity
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Hi,

 

Decided to make a start on the rail served warehouse. As with the bridges I have made the basic structure out of 5mm foamboard. I have made it 4ft in length, it should be 6ft ish if done to scale. To allow the complete layout to fit in the garage I had to loose a couple of ft and this is the area I reduced it.

 

Whilst looking on Google Earth I noticed the shed has been built with rails feeding the south end of the warehouse aswell though the rails terminate at the boundry fence.

 

Here is a picture of progress so far. Its being built in low relief. The mk3 is standing in for a vga!

 

 

post-6834-0-15517500-1384209187_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

 

The warehouse is progressing well however I have run out of plastic cladding for the walls and roof, hopefully pick some up later. With the shed being 4ft in length and each board is 3ft, my plan is to build as a whole, then once complete carefully cut were the board split should be, hopefully that will work!

 

post-6834-0-72387600-1384941050_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

 

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this 5mm foamboard stuff - ive never used it yet you look like youve managed to cut it nice and straight especially in the horizontal plane looking along the length of the new raihtx.  how did you do this/what knife or saw did you use and was it against a straight edge?

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this 5mm foamboard stuff - ive never used it yet you look like youve managed to cut it nice and straight especially in the horizontal plane looking along the length of the new raihtx.  how did you do this/what knife or saw did you use and was it against a straight edge?

Hi,

 

I have used a craft knife with fresh blade against a steel ruler. For doing cuts this long I used 40 inch steel rule. Also got a 24 inch steel ruler aswell. I also do a number of light passes with the knife rather than 1 full cut.

 

Sam, may look at doing that.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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Hi Simon. Your photo of folley lane bridge and the 2 ,86s .your right about​ the running lines.The line the res 86 is on

Is also by directional from the station to winwick jcn. As used by the train to st,Helen's. You could run a demu back and to

On a shuttle services. Hope the info is useful to you.?   :scratchhead: I started my working life at the s&t department at arply in the late 70s   :blind:

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simon have you thought about using the 2FSs own code 40 easitrac wooden and concrete sleeper flexi for the scenic lines?  i couldnt believe the visual improvement from RTR track and I dont think you would have any regrets using it certainly in the longer term.  although designed with 2mm finescale in mind the latest RTR rolling stock and locos run fine on code 40 im told.

Edited by ThaneofFife
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Thats exactly what I am doing on Millers Dale and what I advised Simon to do. There really is no comparison and if you build your points to n standards you can use fat peco in the fiddles if you so wish and keep the standard wheels. Heres a comparison shot between code 40 track and peco code 80.

 

post-6894-0-51130200-1385128779.jpg

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RTR stock will run fine on code 40, however they will not run through the turnouts unless you have finescale wheelsets. It will look great though with the overhead catenary!

Agree with Cav though, if you set the crossings to N standards, the standard wheelsets will run through with no problems.

Edited by cornish trains jez
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They will if you build wider tolerances into the flangeways and maybe gauge narrow to minimise the gaps. Then N wheels will run fine.

 

You need to scratchbuild some proper fine catenery now though mate!

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  • RMweb Gold

I would definitely go for some type of better track - it makes a world of difference.

 

If you don't want to go 2mm FS (which I can fully understand) then you can either ease out flangeways as Cav suggests or buy point kits from Finetrax: http://www.britishfinescale.com/

 

Well worth the effort IMHO.

 

Cheers, Mike

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Waynes N gauge track is very good. In fact the sample on the pic above is fiNetrax. I do have the 2mmFS concrete for my main lines though. I very much like the look of Waynes point kits but they only come in bullhead so not suitable for mainline track in the later eras. It is fairly easy to knock up the points with copperclad though and some solder paint.

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......just take a look at "Par" being modelled in 2mm FS on here - another fairly new layout just getting off the ground now. 

 

That guys gone for Easitrac too and it so is worth the extra money and effort.  Correct about the turnouts but I would go with Cav and have turnouts to N gauge standards with peco for the fiddles as theres no need for finescale back there off scene and helps to keep costs down and construction time low.  just need to build up your code 40 on scene slightly higher than the track off scene to get the rail heights to match between your code 40 and your code 55 or 80.

Cavs photo in post 59 at a glance makes you think its a different scale of modelling altogether  :)   a good trick on the eye.

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Hi,

 

Thanks for all the comments regards the advice for the track, the trackwork will probably be started in the new year. My plan is to finish the final bits on the bridges and also complete the warehouse over the next few weeks along with completing the final baseboard.

With regards the code 40 track, is it robust enough for baseboard joins as I will have 4 board joins on the layout?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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It is very robust simon. I would suggest a copper clad sleeper or something to solder the very ends of the rails to at the board edge but thats regardless of track used imo. Its a very exposed position when seperated for any track end. I will have a board joint down the centre of the layout and I have no worries about crossing it.

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Hello Simon,

 

Our most recent club layout was built just before Easitrack (and now Finetrax) became widely available. I certainly think that for future use I would strongly consider using them in sidings/secondary lines. I am not 100% sure I would ditch the Code 55 for mainlines because it us very solid and dependable.

 

For your building, I would recommend having it as a separate part that lifts off. Even if you can cut it very accurately, I think a crack/join will always spoil the appearance - and a building that large will always catch the eye, so any issues will be magnified to the viewer. Also, as another poster pointed out, a building that large is a great way to hide a baseboard join!

 

A removable building may be better for maintenance.  I don't know if you're planning on having any working features but our steel terminal building has working doors and lights.  These do need fettling and fixing from time to time, and a removable building makes this much less of a chore!  Although it doesn't actually cross the baseboard join, the building does "butt up" to it to help disguise it.

 

I took a couple of snaps at the Shoeburyness MRC show at Southend today - this one best illustrates the building/joint interface:

 

post-420-0-27684700-1385322790_thumb.jpg

 

One other thing:  at the very least you'll want to make roof panels removable to recover the inevitable derailed wagons!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

Edited by Ben A
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Hi Ben,

 

Thats a cracking photograph of your steel terminal building. Regards the building being removable, I think thats the way I will be going now. I am going to make a working door for the warehouse, I have got a few old Fulgrex slow action point motors lying around which could be suitable.

 

Thanks

 

Simon

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Hi Simon, looking very good Simon. The bridges and warehouse are very impressive.
 
Any progress on the Cowans Sheldon crane? 

 

Hi Alex,

 

Thanks, regards the crane, its awaiting a coat of white primer and then its first coat of yellow! Dallam and the 7mm Grid have delayed work on the crane at the minute. Thinking about it, I will need to build a 2mm scale crane for Dallam!

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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  • 2 months later...

Hi,

 

Thought I should make a start on some stock for Dallam. First project for this is Dapol's 86425 in RES livery. I am modelling 2001 and here on Flickr is a picture of it in action http://www.flickr.com/photos/52781536@N05/5353414934/in/photolist-9a4DKu-axtNaU-aECzK7-9a1tbc-93kc9R-jov5LK-iX6cgp-apJTNc-9sUHWY-9oYpVy-aPQnw6-aa59yA-aWfaAD-bgoZMM-c9fXK1-frP2oE-jjaE3h-aUYQTP-eaRMNb-bnBVSp-faTANi-d9XFYZ-g7G2ct-biaqNk-byfcwR-bkkhZW-cGwCYE-bkki63-bkki3G-dWBWva-dWC3XX-e5pWfe-dobMWB-bkkU6f-dLdV9Q-9BfF7U-gT9tj3-dQuV1d-bdQ7EP-9RuKCz-cpe7kh-fzDs1Q-8nvPYu-8nvPVU-8nvPWs-8nvPZ1-8nsGd4-8nsGfF-8nvPUN-8nsG9t-8nvPVq

 

Starting with the model, the coupling has been removed completely from one end ready for the detailing to be added. Plan is to fit new high speed pantograph, footsteps above buffers, blank covers where the old MW jumper cables had been fitted,Saint Mungo nameplates, driver in cab etc.  

 

post-6834-0-53111400-1391436094_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

 

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Hi,

 

Progressed the class 86 a little more tonight, fitted the detailing kit to one end. The footsteps over the buffers are made from 10thou strip and the MW blanking plates are from 5 thou strip. Hopefully going to pick up a replacement high speed pantograph over the next few days.

 

post-6834-0-98196100-1391465177_thumb.jpg

 

At the opposite end just going to fit the steps and MW blanking plates.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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