Ah, so it is to draw and cut a scale length Tummel Viaduct then? (A nice lattice girder viaduct on the Aberfeldy branch of the Highland Railway) I have the drawings.....
Edited by uax6, 26 November 2013 - 19:58 .
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Posted 27 November 2013 - 07:14
Before starting this project, please download the Studio manual from here: http://www.silhouett...-studio_v5.pdf.
Project – A Coal Merchant’s Office in Styrene
This will be a fairly simple project to create a one room building in styrene or card. The building could be a coal office, a beach hut, or a small lockup. The output will be the scoring of planks and the cutting of sides, window frames, a window panes, a door and door frame. There will also be a roof cut in a way that will allow it to bend in the middle to fit onto the top of the structure. For this first project there won't be a drawn plan, The whole thing will be drawn in the computer by hand by tracing over a photo and making leaps of faith for the other sides. By the end of the project the skills learned will be:
I've found that the easiest way to work is to build up the drawing so that all of the pieces are present and in the correct places, and then disassembling it to create the files needed to produce the cut parts.
Based on the photo above, the wall on the left is solid, the wall facing us has a small window and electric bell, the wall to the right I’ll insert a door and a window as it faces the yard and the siding used by the firm. The wall on the other side I’ll leave solid.
There will be three files at the end of this:
If you are using .020” plastic for the walls, all .020” styrene lines will be scored as the plastic will be too thick to cut through. The “cut lines” around the outside of the walls etc in this case will simply be deeper than the planks.
Finally, We're Making a Start
Positioning the Ruler
Resizing the Photo
You should end up with something like this:
Guides are very useful in situations where you don’t have a sharp photo or plan. If your photo has an edge that blurs over four or five pixels, which of those pixels should be the definitive one? Adding a guide gives you something definite to aim at when creating your shapes to make sure they all line up correctly. Unfortunately, the free version of Silhouette Studio does not have genuine guides as these are only in the pro version. To get around this I use ordinary lines to simulate them.
The actions in steps 4-6 will stop the guides from being cut later on. I always change the guides to light blue so I know that they are guides and not cut or score lines.
The image below shows all the lines in place. Now I can move the photo and ruler out of the way and start drawing.
You should now have the photo the right size for a 4mm scale building and guides that will help you to accurately create the sides later.
I've gone into a lot of detail there as I'm assuming I'm not talking to graphic designers. Please let me know if you would like me to assume you have the basics and I'll tighten it up a bit. Also, please have a look through the manual as it gives information about all of the buttons that surround the work area.
I'm definitely not on tomorrow, so hopefully this isn't a bad start. Please let me know if I've not been clear at any point.
Next time, walls, doors and windows.
Edited by JCL, 27 November 2013 - 07:28 .
Posted 27 November 2013 - 09:44
This level of detail is just right for me at least. My wife is grumbling that if I cut or score plasticard, I wiil blunt her blades, which
I guess may be the case? Also, which of the 3 coloured blades are best for styrene? - I would like to buy a set for railway use
in the interests of marital harmony!
Posted 27 November 2013 - 09:52
Posted 27 November 2013 - 20:44
But Allan, just imagine using this machine to cut out those tiny bricks now that the old computer card chad is a thing of the past ;-)
Mike T, I have a 1/2 a cubic foot of those things that I offered to Allan a while ago and even his Avatar went a funny colour
Posted 27 November 2013 - 21:47
Ordered my Silhouette Cameo on 11th November from Amazon for £183. Waiting on delivery from USA, expected by 10th December
Your thread is most opportune, and already answers a number of questions which would have needed some considerable time to sort
I use AutoCAD for all my drawing work, so no problem with creating DXF files
It will come in handy for those precision cuts in card and styrene which test the steadiness of hand cutting, and tedious nature of repetitive designs
Will be following this thread with interest, and if I have anything to add to the experience, will post here
Posted 28 November 2013 - 06:33
Edited by JCL, 28 November 2013 - 06:45 .
Posted 28 November 2013 - 12:05
Two limitations are the thickness and the resistance of the materials. Although the blade extends to approximately 1mm, or .040", you will only be able to cut through styrene up to .015" thick (someone here has done it: http://www.hobbytalk...p/t-361584.html), after that you will be scoring and snapping.
There are some really interesting concepts on that thread, but bear in mind it is using one of the earlier generation of Silhouettes.
Sorry, wrong link. It is actually one referred to by the first link: http://www.therailwi...p?topic=23354.0
Edited by MikeTrice, 28 November 2013 - 12:14 .
Posted 28 November 2013 - 12:26
Great thread, toying with the idea of whether I can justify sufficient use out of one for 7mm.
I guess though that as long as you stay within the machine's parameters, the scale is actually irrelevant as you can laminate multiple layers together and glue end-on to make things longer than the size of the cutting table.
Will follow with interest and see if I can persuade Santa...
Posted 28 November 2013 - 13:17
Posted 28 November 2013 - 13:26
I'm sure once I got one and got to grips with the thing I'd find no end of useful things I could do with a cutter.
It's just that initial thought of spending out a large chunk of money on the unknown, which I may not get on with, or really ever get my money's worth out of - and the money could easily be spent on other stuff - although of course £250 in O gauge doesn't necessarily go that far - one Heljan Mk 1 or half a Heljan loco, 6 Peco points etc...
Posted 28 November 2013 - 13:48
Well I've just ordered one too.
I can think of things like the ends of carriage seats (for sticking to Ratio seats for where you have an open coach) little tables for coaches and for cutting gaskets for my Moggy Van!
We are all going to be very busy I feel!
Jason.. What shape blade do you use? Some seem to advocate a 60* one for finer work.
Posted 29 November 2013 - 05:24
Edited by JCL, 29 November 2013 - 05:47 .
Posted 29 November 2013 - 06:07
Oh well if we are making lists I'll add tender side frames, footplates, solebars, wagon bodies, mobile telephone exchange trailers (in model form!), bridge girders (I'll get in with that before Ron!).
Do you think we could make a decent tyre representation?
Posted 29 November 2013 - 10:38
AndyG - what's this with bridge girders - aren't they simple enough using straight edge and knife
JCL - Sorry to be jumping the gun a little, but I can indulge in a little thinking time before the machine arrives
Now this maybe what AndyG was referring to -
Have been drawing up the ornamentation for the GN Deansgate Bridge - it was built on the skew, and the North and South faces were of differing lengths
It is hoped that the various laminations will be cut in 5 & 10thou styrene - the laminations vary in height between 11 & 72mm (with the exception 30thou strips), and the lengths are 452 and 486mm. When the laminations are fixed together the overall thickness will approach 2.5mm
North Face Ornamentation Laminations
In some places I may have to introduce some support tags, etc. or produce a longer support mat, or even draw & cut in two separate sections, so that they can be butt jointed
Posted 29 November 2013 - 11:07
I am about to embark on designing a LNWR covered wooden footbridge. I originally intended to get it laser cut, but am watching this topic with interest. With laser cutting I can use .75, 1.0 and 1.5mm Rowmark (.029, .039 and .059 inch), which is styrene compatible. This would cost more, but considerably reduce the number of lams.
M concern about building up thicker items like this from many laminations is both alignment and distortion/buckling as the solvent dries. I wonder if the edges of the assembled parts are likely to show the laminations and need any/much cleaning up?
Posted 29 November 2013 - 11:25
Trust Ron to come up with THAT as a bridge design! From simple to advanced in one easy step!
Jol, you could incorporate an extra part of the cut layers that could contain some sort of lining up tool. Say three holes (two at one end, one at the other) that you can put a nail through to locate each layer. After you have put solvent on (sparingly) the edges will stil show the lamination markes, but once painted they should disappear. As long as you don't have large areas where the slovent can't evaporate there sholud be no distorsion.
Posted 29 November 2013 - 11:36
My concern about building up thicker items like this from many laminations is both alignment and distortion/buckling as the solvent dries. I wonder if the edges of the assembled parts are likely to show the laminations and need any/much cleaning up?
I agree multiple laminations can cause all sorts of distortion especially in the length of thin strips. I use a quick brush of butanone/mek along one long edge joint and leave for a few minutes before a quick brush down the other long edge joint, if the strip width is wide enough to warrant it, leaving the ends unfixed. I normally only laminate narrow strips between 10 thou and 20mm wide, not sheets
Maximum number of laminations fixed so far has been seven, on the CLC Deansgate Bridge. It is now 5 years old and still looking ok, although it is now going under a partial modification to accommodate a second signal gantry and associated electrics
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