A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[newbryford]

And another offer from www.yolo.co.uk

18% off until 1st Jan.

Enter the code HELLO2018 at checkout

 

Cheers,

Mick

[dhjgreen]

I recently got a Portrait cutter.  I have downloaded the latest version of Studio and was browsing, as you do.  I am looking at a way of making some 2mm diameter spacers, 1mm thick.  Now we know that the Portrait will not cut this thick.  However, I looked at craft foam, in the new list of materials to be cut, and it gave a blade depth setting I did not recognise: 20, then it dawned on me!  So to the craft shop for some 2mm thick foam and a fast delivery from Yolo of a deep cut blade.  Sorry to say it failed to cut my 2 mm diameter spacers at 2mm thick, however it did successfully cut a larger object.  So 2mm thick foam now added to the list of materials we can cut.

 

I can now buy some 1 mm foam and make my spacers (with the standard blade)

[Siberian Snooper]

I have just downoaded Studio 4.1 to my laptop, in a vain attempt to get Inkscape to recognise the Cameo. Never mind I will soldier on transferring the Inkscape drawing into Studio.

 

On the plus side you can now set the number of passes between 1 and 10, so you no longer have to do 2 cuts and then reset.

 

Merry Christmas.

 

SS

[stephennicholson]

And another offer from www.yolo.co.uk

18% off until 1st Jan.

Enter the code HELLO2018 at checkout

 

Cheers,

Mick

thanks for the tip. Ordered one yesterday

[Ray H]

I have been wondering for a while whether there is any relevance between the blade depth setting specified in the Silhouette software screen or whether it is totally dependant on the setting on the cutting tool itself.

 

 

I read an article some while ago about the production of the "bellows" style corridor connections. The article envisaged the complete replacement of the supplied part of the connection with a concertina style one made out of card.

 

I opted to leave the attachments on the vehicles and simply add a small "concertina" held in place with Tacky Wax.

 

The first production was for a two-car DMU produced by hand to make sure the idea had merit. It worked so well that I have now made several (of two different styles) using the Portrait and fitted them to all my coaching stock. The fact that the top (and bottoms) are open isn't too noticeable.

 

I did experiment with the depth, speed and "pressure" settings during the process. Varying just the "pressure" setting and leaving the blade depth on the cutter unaltered but changing it in the software resulted in a number of scored lines - where the card is folded to form the bellows - actually cutting right through which was not what was wanted. Therefore it does seem as though the software does impact on the final result.

 

Happy New Year to everyone.

Edited December 31, 2017 by Ray H

[MikeTrice]

Sorry, I don't agree. The blade depth shown in the software is for guidance only. From the manual "Blade Setting Recommendation – Though the software and actual Silhouette unit will not know what blade level you are actually using, the recommendation will provide you with a visual cue on what blade setting should be used for the intended media based on the blade type for your cutting tool model"

 

If you accidentally cut right through the bellows you had the blade extended too far. See this: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/page-58&do=findComment&comment=2438764

.

[Ray H]

I'll try again Mike but I'm 99% certain that I set the blade depth to 1 both on the machine and the bade unit and increasing the pressure caused the card to be cut instead of just being scored.

 

Previously I'd set the blade to 2 (in software and on the cutter) and it cut through whereas using blade 1 and a lower pressure figure generated the score lines I wanted.

[MikeTrice]

Ignoring the machine for the present, extend your blade to what you think you need then get a scrap piece of the card on a cutting (self healing) mat. Holding the blade in your hand plunge the blade through the card as far as you can and drag it to the side. Examine the resulting cut. The blade should be extended just enough to cut right through, any more and you could damage your Silhouette cutting mat and reduce its effective lifespan. Conversly when scoring you need to ensure that the blade is not extended too far so it cannot cut right through. The blade settings vary per blade (the numbers are approximations) so they are not the most accurate. It is always safer to do the plunge test first and adjust accordingly. It is the thickness/pressure setting that controls the downforce of the cut. Hope that helps.

 

P.S. Don't be frightened to use blade half settings if necessary.

Edited December 31, 2017 by MikeTrice

[PaulCheffus]

Sorry, I don't agree. The blade depth shown in the software is for guidance only. From the manual "Blade Setting Recommendation – Though the software and actual Silhouette unit will not know what blade level you are actually using, the recommendation will provide you with a visual cue on what blade setting should be used for the intended media based on the blade type for your cutting tool model".

Hi

 

The cameo 3 mentions an autoblade, the description of which, seems to suggest that particular machine does use the blade settings in the software.

 

https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/SILH-BLADE-AUTO

 

Does anyone have this model and can confirm this?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited December 31, 2017 by PaulCheffus

[Kiwi]

Hi

 

The cameo 3 mentions an autoblade, the description of which, seems to suggest that particular machine does use the blade settings in the software.

 

https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/SILH-BLADE-AUTO

 

Does anyone have this model and can confirm this?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Yes, I have the Cameo 3 with autoblade and I can confirm that blade depth is entirely set in the software. No manual adjustment of the cutting blade required

[MikeTrice]

Were we talking about the autoblade for cutting the bellows? The other blades have no way for the machine to autoadjust.

[MikeTrice]

With the autoblade, if I am reading the documentation correctly, the machine automatically adjusts the blade depth to match the material selected in the software, so if the physical material differs in depth from what the software thinks it should be the machine will either overcut or undercut?

[Kiwi]

With the autoblade, if I am reading the documentation correctly, the machine automatically adjusts the blade depth to match the material selected in the software, so if the physical material differs in depth from what the software thinks it should be the machine will either overcut or undercut?

Superficially that is correct, but you can also over-ride the default depth for any chosen material and use your own preferred depth setting.

[ISW]

Not sure if this classifies as     but Hobbycraft currently has £40 off the Cricut Explore Air (now £200). You also get 15% off a further purchase made in the next month when you join their club (free).

 

I got the Cricut, and plan to use the 15% discount to buy the 'extended blade'. Should make cutting up to 1mm thick card 'possible'. I also want it to cut styrene, so fingers crossed on that one.

 

Ian

[MikeTrice]

I wonder if JCL envisaged when starting this thread that it would go for 88 pages? I for one would really like to hear your experiences with the Cricut but just in case it takes off as a topic, my suggestion is that you start a new topic for it so it can be discussed in its own right. What do others think?

[Y_Rail]

With respect to the autoblade feature mentioned (that it adjusts automatically...) i suppose this only works when the cuts are made using the Studio software right?

 

I am using inkscape on linux for the whole process and i have to manually select everything (unless i am missing something).

[jonhall]

If anyone would like to look at a Portrait in action, or talk about what it can or cannot do, I'll be demo'ing one at the CMRA show this weekend in Stevenage, as an alternative to my usual resin casting demo.

 

Jon

[Kiwi]

With respect to the autoblade feature mentioned (that it adjusts automatically...) i suppose this only works when the cuts are made using the Studio software right?

 

I am using inkscape on linux for the whole process and i have to manually select everything (unless i am missing something).

Yes, you are quite right. Obviously, it's a matter of personal preference, what you're used to, and what you want to produce, but I've yet to find any need for anything other than Studio in my cutting.

[Robin2]

I've yet to find any need for anything other than Studio in my cutting.

Studio does not work on Linux.

 

In view of the fact that the Studio software comes free with the Silhouette machines I can't understand why they have not "Open-Sourced" the software. It's not as if there is anything especially secret about any part of the software or the machine.

 

To my mind the blade is clever part, but you can easily by clones. I was able to make a practical cutter with a clone blade mounted in my small CNC lathe and my own software. But it did not stop me buying a Portrait when the funds allowed.

 

I have been wondering if the lathe could impart sufficient force to cut thicker materials - but I can't see myself doing any tests in the near future. Too many other toys to play with

 

...R

Edited January 9, 2018 by Robin2

[Marly51]

I’ve just started checking out these cutters. I love scratching building by hand, but would also like to experiment with a cutting machine at some point. For my professional work I have always used Adobe creative software since the year dot and I know that the machines used by vinyl lettering companies had equipment which were compatible with Adobe. Ideally I would prefer a machine which could use the current version of Adobe Creative Suite, but suspect that the cheaper machines created for craft work require their own customised software? Not rushing into anything at present, but if I buy a cutter I would want to make sure it wasn’t going to be defunct within a few years. Still got to check out this whole thread and thank you everyone for sharing your experience and techniques.

Marlyn

Edited January 11, 2018 by Marly51

[Siberian Snooper]

I’ve just started checking out these cutters. I love scratching building by hand, but would also like to experiment with a cutting machine at some point. For my professional work I have always used Adobe creative software since the year dot and I know that the machines used by vinyl lettering companies had equipment which were compatible with Adobe. Ideally I would prefer a machine which could use the current version of Adobe Creative Suite, but suspect that the cheaper machines created for craft work require their own customised software? Not rushing into anything at present, but if I buy a cutter I would want to make sure it wasn’t going to be defunct within a few years. Still got to check out this whole thread and thank you everyone for sharing your experience and techniques.

Marlyn

If you download Studio (free) you can see what file types that are compatible with it and if one of these is also available to you when you, 'save as' you're home and dry, you can then produce your artwork in your favourite programme, save it in a compatible format, open it up in Studio and your away.

[ISW]

I’ve just started checking out these cutters. I love scratching building by hand, but would also like to experiment with a cutting machine at some point. For my professional work I have always used Adobe creative software since the year dot and I know that the machines used by vinyl lettering companies had equipment which were compatible with Adobe. Ideally I would prefer a machine which could use the current version of Adobe Creative Suite, but suspect that the cheaper machines created for craft work require their own customised software? Not rushing into anything at present, but if I buy a cutter I would want to make sure it wasn’t going to be defunct within a few years. Still got to check out this whole thread and thank you everyone for sharing your experience and techniques.

Marlyn

 

Just as a comparison (and an attempt to avoid going   ) the Cricut Explore Air can (but I've not checked, obviously) cut the list of materials in the image below (sorry it's a bit loooooong). I have included a PDF version for those who want to interrogate it further.

 

 

I'll have to select a few for checking, with some thin and thick materials. The one that caught my eye was 'heavy leather - 2mm', which it sets to cut 5-times. If it'll cut 2mm leather, then I stand a good chance with 2mm card, or even 1mm & 1.5mm styrene.

 

2018 - Cricut Custom Materials.pdf

Ian 

[Marly51]

Just as a comparison (and an attempt to avoid going   ) the Cricut Explore Air can (but I've not checked, obviously) cut the list of materials in the image below (sorry it's a bit loooooong). I have included a PDF version for those who want to interrogate it further.

 

2018 - Cricut Custom Materials.jpg

 

I'll have to select a few for checking, with some thin and thick materials. The one that caught my eye was 'heavy leather - 2mm', which it sets to cut 5-times. If it'll cut 2mm leather, then I stand a good chance with 2mm card, or even 1mm & 1.5mm styrene.

 

2018 - Cricut Custom Materials.pdf

Ian

 

Thanks Ian - good to know. I’ll definitely keep this in mind when I get round to considering adding this piece of kit to my workshop. A new airbrush and compressor is top of my purchase list at present

 

All the best, Marlyn

[smiths park]

A Portrait 2 arrived via Santa Claus from my parents. So starting reading the thread and Hurrah .. just finished reading the 88 pages of inspiring modelling and informative comments, plenty of do's and dont's. Just a quick note thank everybody who has contributed to the thread, no matter how small. 

[Siberian Snooper]

I have hit a bit of a problem of late, I have been cutting coach sides and it cuts out two, barely scribes the third and then more or less cuts the 4th. I am using Ver 4 of the Studio software on a Cameo cutter, I could understand it if it wasn't doing much in the middle of the length of the side, but more or less skipping one has left me puzzled. I am putting it through the cutter 4 times and I'm cutting 10 thou plasticard. it's not a problem I had with Ver 3.

 

Any ideas, Please.

 

Thanks

 

SS