chaz Posted November 14, 2017 Author Share Posted November 14, 2017 (edited) Chaz, On Leesburg the Banta kits seemed on the small size but the Laser Art depot seemed too large - I queried the size of the doors (scale 9') with the kit manufacturer but they said it was copied from drawings.... Working from drawings is always the safest way to scale buildings. IMO it's important that the buildings do make the railway equipment look small - after all it was. Chaz Edited November 14, 2017 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJon30 Posted November 14, 2017 Share Posted November 14, 2017 I used some plastic kits from Ameri-towne, ideal for kit bashing Rgds Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 15, 2017 Author Share Posted November 15, 2017 (edited) Progress at Dixon I have the first connecting track to the turntable (TT) laid. I soldered a couple of brass shims to the underside of the rails and spiked these to the rim of the TT. This packing still proved a mite too low so I slipped a small piece of paper under the shims. The approach track dropper wires are not yet connected to the DCC bus but a couple of croc’ clip hook-up wires to the nearest live tracks enabled me to test the TT. I have a Lenz decoder connected to the TT motor so the motor can be very finely controlled, allowing the rotation to be slowed right down as the rails approach alignment. Click on the link below for a video of a first test run on and off the TT (well not quite the first - but not much later). https://youtu.be/QIYaYCbxIhc Apologies for the poor quality of the video which was shot with my compact - so not HD or even near it. When I have a few more of the tracks laid I will shoot some video with my Nikon - that will be HD. The Tam Valley “frog juicer” is connected to the TT tracks and set up as an auto-reverser. This appears to work really well with no detectable effect on the movement or sound of the loco. You can see from the video that it is possible to align the table by eye without the need for any complicated indexing devices. I have found that if the alignment is missed (easily done!) it’s better to move away a bit and come back at the lowest speed. Once the table has been set moving the speed can be brought right down making it easier to get the alignment spot on. Chaz Edited November 15, 2017 by chaz 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 (edited) I have laid more of the track to the turntable. Both connections to the main lines are laid. Top right is the curve to Coal Mine Junction with the mine branch running across the top of the picture. Bottom right is the curve that leads to the line into Dixon. The spur that the gondola occupies is important. It is opposite the Coal Mine Junction connection - if the spur is in line so is the connection. A locomotive sitting on the table blocks the view and would make accurate alignment impossible - the spur makes it possible. I plan to put some buildings in the space between #25 and the mine branch to hide that track and, particularly, the transition to the Peco OO track in the staging. A view from the other side of the central peninsular with the curve into Dixon in the foreground. The Model T Ford is standing roughly where the water tank will stand. This will have two spouts, one for each of the curves. The two tracks that are not yet laid will run off the TT in the space beyond the two Dixon curves. Before I lay these tracks I will build the engine house as they will run into it and need to be positioned to suit. The card packing under the tracks brings the code 83 rail to level with the code 100 on the table. Chaz Edited November 21, 2017 by chaz 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2017 I like the logic of the spur so you can allign the track you cannot see with the one in front. Good thinking. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 I like the logic of the spur so you can allign the track you cannot see with the one in front. Good thinking. Don Thanks Don. I was thinking that I needed some sort of mark to align the table and then had a light bulb moment - I think the spur will play host to a MoW car or an internal "move-things-about" flat car. I have a very short and narrow flat car from a Chivers kit that will serve very well in this role. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 23, 2017 Author Share Posted November 23, 2017 Just about to install some Tortoises under Dixon, some new and some reclaimed from a previous layout. Checking the internal switches with a meter I find them distinctly hit and miss as to whether they work or not - regardless of whether they are new or reclaimed. I am not inclined to mess about trying to get them to work as I have previous experience of problems arising in service with switch crossings going dead due to dodgy switches. I will be installing relays, wired in parallel with the motor. This produces a very dependable alternative. Just need to add a diode in the connection to the relay coil to make the relay switch on and off depending on the polarity of the feed to the Tortoise. Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 (edited) I have spent a few days underneath the baseboards soldering the dropper wires from the rails (every individual piece of rail has its own) to the bus tag-strips. Blue and brown heavy gauge wires are the bus connections which daisy-chain around the layout, the green and orange wires are the droppers. Tedious but essential work. I just have the Tortoises to install and wire, with the relays to switch the crossing polarity and then I can climb out from under the boards and do more interesting stuff. That last snap is of a very small tag-strip put under the turntable to connect the droppers from the two "whisker" tracks. So that's well over 70 soldered joints plus the work involved in fitting the suspended MDF boards to carry it all. I deserve a treat - how about a trip to the Reading trade show tomorrow? I hope to get an On30 goody or two, and I pick up the 7mm J6 that Heather Kay has built for me. Christmas comes early. Chaz Edited December 1, 2017 by chaz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJon30 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Chaz, looking forward to seeing all those kits built! Rgds Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 Chaz, looking forward to seeing all those kits built! Rgds Andrew So am I, mate. I bought five laser cut building kits at Reading so the kit cupboard is almost too small. Still up to my eyes in wiring with the Tortoises and the accessory decoders currently being dealt with. I had hoped to buy the last two Tortoises I need at Reading but none of the dealers had any. Must go on-line for them. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJon30 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 I have a couple of Tortoises that are spare you can have, as I am standardising on servo's for future projects. Send me a PM Rgds Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 I have a couple of Tortoises that are spare you can have, as I am standardising on servo's for future projects. Send me a PM Rgds Andrew PM on its way, next. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 OH dear. One step forward....two steps back. The relays I was planning to use require too high a coil current and resulted in a failed transistor on the MERG accessory decoder PCB when I tested the first set-up. I spent some time replacing this and am now back on track. Bear in mind that the relay switches at the moment when the Tortoise starts to move - probably when the motor draws its maximum current. I will set aside the big relays - I used these successfully on Dock Green but on that layout the Tortoises are controlled with toggle switches not from DCC decoders - and put some smaller PCB relays on bespoke matrix boards. I will need several of these - as soon as I have the first board designed and installed I will post details in this topic. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 (edited) All but two of the switches now have Tortoises fitted and wired back to MERG accessory decoders. The last two (the loco release crossover) will be dealt with as soon as I have prised the two Tortoises out of the grasp of Royal Snail. The postman tried to deliver them yesterday but the idea of pressing the button to ring the door bell defeated him and, as I was in the roof working on the FVRR, I couldn't hear his pathetic knock. I am expecting the relays and other bits to come tomorrow (providing the postman doesn't c0ck up the delivery again) and I will then be able to make up the relay boards that will switch the switch crossing (frog - if you must) polarity. The track will then get a thorough test and any necessary adjustments made, ahead of ballasting (OH goody ). It has just struck me - that's all the track laid - there will be nothing to stop full operating sessions as soon as the stock is ready. Chaz Edited December 10, 2017 by chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 (edited) This afternoon I have installed the last two Tortoises on switches #17 & #18 - the loco release crossover. These work fine (and I guessed correctly with both of them, which way round to connect the two motor wires!). Next wiring job will be the relays to switch the crossing polarity. Yesterday evening, being fed up with wiring I thought I would make up one of the kits I bought at the recent Reading show. I put the basic structure together with "runny superglue", applying it into the corner of the joints and allowing it to run along. The kit has laser-cut planks which are for the siding on the front part of the building. I followed the kit instructions first making the wood "dirty" by applying a wash of Indian ink diluted in IPA (water would cause the wood to warp). Having left it overnight I then brush-painted it with Revell #36, matte carmine red. I used enamel as suggested to avoid the risk of acrylic warping the wood. I put on the red almost like dry-brushing, dragging the paint lightly along the planks to give a worn and weathered look. This allows the dirt and the wood grain to show through. Using enamel this thin means that it dries quite quickly (although not as fast as acrylics). I will post more snaps as this little building progresses. Chaz Edited December 12, 2017 by chaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Chaz, looking good. I have found that if you paint both sides with acrylic it cancells out the tendency to warp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 Chaz, looking good. I have found that if you paint both sides with acrylic it cancells out the tendency to warp. I'm sure you're right, in fact it might well be safe to use acrylic on one side only if applied in a dry-brushing technique. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 On any sheet material what you do to one side must be done to the other. It will warp no matter what you use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) On any sheet material what you do to one side must be done to the other. It will warp no matter what you use. That has not been my experience. It's certainly true that HIP will warp if laminated only on one side, and plywood always has an odd number of layers to even out any forces that produce warping. Paint and stains do not necessarily produce any such forces - wood that I soaked yesterday with an IPA/indian ink mix shows no signs of warping - this was only treated on one side. IPA has long been a favourite dilutant for our American cousins for staining their laser-cut wooden kit builds. The laser cut planks that I stained with the mix and then painted with Revell enamel did not warp, and have since been glued to the building shell with "sticky" PVA. So far so good. It's water that usually produces warping of wood - it causes the fibres to swell and if this only happens on one side... It would seem that IPA does not have this effect. Interestingly some time ago I did, as an experiment, use Indian ink diluted with water on an offcut of machine cut lap siding. This immediately warped dramatically and warned me off using the combination - however I put the sample on one side - I discovered it recently in a box of odd bits and bobs and it has returned to being flat. As it has dried out the warping has gone. However, unless you are prepared to wait several weeks or months this is not a practical approach. Obviously if glue has produced the warping then as it dries it usually locks the distortion into the material (hence the plywood ploy). Chaz Edited December 13, 2017 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 If you are not interested in my relay boards or don’t see the need for them then skip this post, you will only be bored. Prototype - relay with terminal blocks mounted on stripboard. From left to right 2 way terminal block for input from tortoise connections. The two connections will be made so that the relay is off when the switch (points!) are in their normal position. Not essential but good practice. 1N4001 diode which ensures that the relay coil is powered for only one polarity of the input. DPDT relay mounted in a DIL16 I.C. socket. You could solder the relay directly into the board but I prefer to use a socket. Three wire links. 3 way terminal block for output. The outer two terminals will be connected to the DCC bus and the centre to the switch crossing (point frog). I took this up to the roof and connected it up to the railway to check that it did work, using a continuity tester on the output connector to prove the switching. Track side of the board. Spot the 3 track breaks! Also note that I don’t bother to solder the I.C. socket pins that are unused - the relay only has 8 pins so there are 8 of those. A photo for those who find this stuff a long way from railway modelling… A Bachmann ten-wheeler chugs through the woods. Chaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 I took a break from soldering (you can have too much of a good thing) to finish planking the Banta store. A steel rule pressed against a plank as it's glued in place allows a quick check on its position (whether its parallel to the edge). Planking finished - next step is doors and windows. Chaz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 (edited) I have just finished and tested a batch of relay boards. I did wonder how the cost of these compares with the cost of frog juicers. Factoring in the "cost" of the time it takes to make up the relay boards might well mean that the frog juicers are better. However I do get some satisfaction from making these. A four-relay board made up, tested and ready to install. The four relay board before adding components, showing the track breaks. There are three for each of the four relays but some extra precautionary ones are needed to isolate the fixing screw holes and the metal spacers from the tracks. Track side of the board with the components soldered in. The usual work-bench clutter as I make up a batch of boards - the meter is being used to check the track breaks. There are obvious advantages to making all the boards needed in one go. Chaz PS - I won't mention the relays again unless someone asks me to go into more detail. This evening I plan to spend some time on the Banta store - at last - some modelling! Edited December 17, 2017 by chaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 (edited) Had to take a break from the wiring - a bit tedious - so spent some time yesterday on the Banta store. Windows and doors assembled, painted and glazed. An impressively good fit with the backs of the window frames peel-and-stick so that there is no problem with glue on the "glass". With the goods-in doors at the back I will need a dirt track for access. There is just room in the area I have in mind although I can only model half of Main Street across the front. Remaining jobs are the roof and signage - I want to do my own store sign lettering as the one in the kit relates to gold mining - not appropriate to the FVRR. Chaz Edited December 21, 2017 by chaz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fettster42 Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Happy Christmas Chas. Thanks for so much inspirational modelling here and on Dock Green. Hope Santa brings many new toys for you to entertain us with in the new year. Leigh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) Happy Christmas Chas. Thanks for so much inspirational modelling here and on Dock Green. Hope Santa brings many new toys for you to entertain us with in the new year. Leigh Thanks Leigh. I wish you a good Christmas too! I doubt that there will be many if any models "below the tree" for me. Sue is very wary of buying me such presents (unless I give her a list) as much as I would be about buying her a book. Far too easy to get it wrong! Chaz Edited December 22, 2017 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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