RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted December 29, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Thought folks might like to see the outcome of this project - there was some dramatic lighting on the decking this morning so I sallied forth with the camera The base model started out as 37254 which has the refurbed nose ends with the cowlings cut back - so first job was to source the correct nose ends. HAving acquired the base model from Muddy Blues of this parish we then did a nose end swap - thanks Craig! Had to remove ER pattern lamp irons and headboard clips and domino headcodes. Then fitted new headcodes from Precision labels with home made glazing, renumbering, OH flashes, arrows and TOPs panels from Fox labels and worksplates plus WR cow horn lamp irons from Extreme etchings - crew are Bachmann, wire coupling loops also added. Weathering washes initially with white to weather blue slightly, then black and roof grime - and track grime plus weathering powders over bogies. All subtle and done with brushes rather than sprays except for a final light coat of sprayed matt varnish - but streaky! Rather pleased with result Heres the original http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=flikr+d6992&id=09165E555A325F0F2390F25BB1A84205BEAFA78F&FORM=IQFRBA#view=detail&id=09165E555A325F0F2390F25BB1A84205BEAFA78F&selectedIndex=0 http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6046/6266116392_a3065cbb5b.jpg Many thanks to Graeme Wareham AKA Brush Veteran for the inspiration Phil Edited December 29, 2013 by Phil Bullock 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 Beautifully converted there Phil, that is a lovely loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted December 29, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2013 I hate to mention this Phil, but as Interminable026 of this parish will testify, I seem to have a thing about EE type 3 ride height and bogie gaps!!! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted December 29, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2013 Don't worry Mike - will be through Abbotswood too quickly for you to get the measuring tape out! Hee hee Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1030western musketeer Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Hi phil Lovely model mate but can I ask what transfers you have used as I have made a mistake on numbering my 37034 to D6753 in blue livery. I have noticed that my numbers for a pre tops version are set to high as should be in line with the small grilles. I have due to replica railways no longer doing rub on transfers ordered from modelmaster as prefer rub ons.I have also sprung buffered my version as didn't, have them. Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Hi phil Lovely model mate but can I ask what transfers you have used as I have made a mistake on numbering my 37034 to D6753 in blue livery. I have noticed that my numbers for a pre tops version are set to high as should be in line with the small grilles. I have due to replica railways no longer doing rub on transfers ordered from modelmaster as prefer rub ons.I have also sprung buffered my version as didn't, have them. Richard. Hi Richard, I would recommend the HMRS presfix type, they are also easier to use than rub on type in my opinion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2014 (edited) Thanks Richard Those are waterslides from Fox Transfers - F4310/10 http://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/image_display.cgi?image=11SxBELC0Jeyo.jpg No connection other than a jolly happy customer! Is this your inspiration? http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6060/6266113190_bcddac4deb.jpg As you say easy to use the grilles as alignment guide - think mine are high at B end on D6992 but far from sure that everything is perfectly straight on the prototype Phil Edited January 5, 2014 by Phil Bullock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted January 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2014 Hi Phil, I'm trying to model this class 37 to, still need to add lamp irons in the correct place, couple more transfers then sound decoder. Your model looks great, an here's a few pics of mine which I do think looks like it rides high. Paul 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2014 Nice one Paul Agree with the ride height - Was only teasing Mr EW! Some weathering of the pick ups/ bogie sides on mine would help disguise this I guess Have you got the frost grilles for yours? And would recommend some works plates from Extreme Etchings - they do the WR Cow Horn lamp irons too if you don't have them to hand. Each WR 37 seems to have a different combination of original/WR lamp irons and headboard clips - sometimes different at each end! Thanks for sharing Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2014 Meant to ask you Richard - what sprung buffers did you use? The fixed originals may cause problems when we come to double head... Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted January 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks Phil, I added the frost grills the other day, need to get the lamp irons and need to add the hand rails to the front to. I weathered the wheels the other day an it seems to help, I'll try and take a few pics of the frost grill added tomorrow night after work. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1030western musketeer Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Phil. I used markets M73 sprung oleo diesel buffers and had to cut into the nose to get them to flush fit. Yes I have used that photo of D6753 for a guide as I believe it fits my era as was one of the 1st 37s to receive blue in 67. Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 5, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2014 See what you mean - have to cut in to accommodate that square mounting plate Might try that on the next one I do Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PjKing1 Posted January 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2014 Hi Phil As promised some more of my attempt. Paul 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 13, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2014 And the next one.... 6885, One of the S Wales steam heat batch, most commonly found west of Cardiff but not exclusively.... Brush veteran captured her twice at Cardiff - heres A and B ends, thanks again Graeme http://www.flickr.com/photos/59835095@N02/6265580115/in/set-72157627818608793/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/59835095@N02/6265578537/in/set-72157627818608793/lightbox/ What a difference - definitely had a nose job at B end. A has headboard clips, coupling reinforcement plate and 2 OHLE flashes - B end has neither of the first two and only one OHLE flash. And not a WR cow horn lamp iron to be seen! So the base model - the later iteration of Bachmann's D6826, which is of course GSYP and has boiler port and vents. So we have to go BFYE. Detailing first - hers my stabs at A and B ends to match the above - clips and plate added to A end, lamp irons and side hand rails to both ends. And an over all view Used Precision Paints rattle cans over Halfords white enamel primer. Fairly please with results until... AAARGH! The masking tape kept trying to walk off the corners of the bonnet - and has succeeded partly in doing so, look at the slope on what should be a vertical yellow panel. Ah well, remask and try to respray over the blue perhaps... any one got tips on how to avoid that problem please? WIll get some better photos in daylight once completed. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45059 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Oops! You needed that to happen like a hole in the head Phil! Which masking tape do you use? I use Tamiya, which is usually pretty good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 14, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2014 Oops! You needed that to happen like a hole in the head Phil! Which masking tape do you use? I use Tamiya, which is usually pretty good. Cheers! Thought I would buy some decent tape so yup spot on - Tamiya!!! I guess the problem is that masking off over the yellow there isn't much tape adhering to the bonnet top to ensure it stays in place WIll remask and try and respray the yellow over the blue - over more white primer, but don't want too much paint build as otherwise happy with the result! Fingers crossed Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45059 Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Cheers! Thought I would buy some decent tape so yup spot on - Tamiya!!! I guess the problem is that masking off over the yellow there isn't much tape adhering to the bonnet top to ensure it stays in place WIll remask and try and respray the yellow over the blue - over more white primer, but don't want too much paint build as otherwise happy with the result! Fingers crossed Phil I don't mean to teach you to suck eggs, but it might be as well to strip back some of that yellow. Else when you spray on the next coat as well as risking the loss of detail, you may well end up with a prominent demarcation line where the first coat went on- (which with me would lead to more swearing!!) Like you say, fingers crossed. Murray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 15, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2014 Cheers! Thought I would buy some decent tape so yup spot on - Tamiya!!! I guess the problem is that masking off over the yellow there isn't much tape adhering to the bonnet top to ensure it stays in place WIll remask and try and respray the yellow over the blue - over more white primer, but don't want too much paint build as otherwise happy with the result! Fingers crossed Phil Parafilm M is your friend Phil; Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 15, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2014 Ha - thanks Mike, that stuff is very familiar to me - but for its designed purpose!!!! Will give it a go Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 15, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2014 Model strip is also my friend - is much more functional than the somewhat scenic name suggests! Have got all that yellow cr*p together with the oversprayed primer mess off without too much grief - now have a shell that is completely blue So to squirt the yellow ends over that - can anyone suggest a white or pale primer that I can overspray the nose ends with before re-applying the yellow ends? CMC has some expensive Tamiya primer - will that work? This way round I mask the blue not the yellow so the masking shouldn't walk off the end of the nose - hopefully! Much easier doing models with removable nose ends like 6992! Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2014 So to squirt the yellow ends over that - can anyone suggest a white or pale primer that I can overspray the nose ends with before re-applying the yellow ends? CMC has some expensive Tamiya primer - will that work? I'll be giving this a try when the fleet comes up for yellowending. http://www.ak-interactive.com/ecomm/index.php?acc=Catalog&sacc=view&IDCat=835&p=1&idp=8797&idc=3 Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 16, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2014 Looks acrylic - will it take enamel top coat do you reckon? Got my hands on parafilm will let you know how that goes Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2014 Looks acrylic - will it take enamel top coat do you reckon? Dunno, it works one way but not the other, not sure which is which, I stick to like on like. I'm sure somebody will be along to confirm. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 17, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 17, 2014 Pink primer over blue has worked on one end - hurrah - still got to sort the other Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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