Cwm Bach - A South Wales Branch Line

[81A Oldoak]

Some gymnastics with my smartphone yielded this evening shot of Cwm Bach Colliery MPD before I installed the oil tank. On shed are Ixion Manning Wardle H 0-4-0ST PALMERSTON and Ixion Fowler 0-4-0DM KITCHENER. 

 

Chris 

[Giles]

Very nice one Chris!

[queensquare]

Gosh, I didn't know it had appeared in MRJ; that's rather like having a letter published in The Times. I've been on holiday abroad for a month so haven't seen it. All I know is that I sent Jerry Clifford copy and photos a few months ago. I shall have to get a copy.

 

Chris

 

I said it would be in my next issue, and it was. You forgot to mention you had also sent it to other mags, I suspect Steve at RM had no idea it was going in MRJ either. A bit embarrassing when it appears in two mags at the same time, something we try to avoid.

 

Jerry

[Fastdax]

Great atmosphere!

[81A Oldoak]

9615 is a Minerva 8750 0-6-0PT that I have accoutred and weathered for a customer. "Before" picture included for comparison.

 

 

[Andrew P]

Very subtle Chris, really brings it to life, well done.

[Earl of Pembroke]

9615 is a Minerva 8750 0-6-0PT that I have accoutred and weathered for a customer. "Before" picture included for comparison.

Very nice. Would it be revealing a trade secret for you to describe how you weather your models?

 

Yours hopefully,

 

Charles

[Brinkly]

That is very nice work Chris, I would certainly be interested to know how you weathered it!

 

Best wishes,

 

Nick.

[81A Oldoak]

I am working up a Minerva 8750 pannier as 3702 with a GWR Shirtbutton totem. I  want this engine to be reasonably clean so started by polishing the superstructure with T-Cut. The first photo shows the polished cab against the unpolished tank. The second photo shows the polishing of the tank. I've noticed some spots of dried T-Cut that will need removing with a stiff brush. Decals and numberplates will go on tomorrow.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

[81A Oldoak]

3702 has been fitted with number-plates (Narrow Planet) and decals have been applied to the tanks and buffer-beams. The decals are HMRS Methfix and I think the GWR Shirtbutton totems are just right compared with some of the bright yellow specimens that surface from time to time. Vacuum and steam pipes will be installed later when I am less likely to knock them off. Next job will be to weather the chassis with brushes, enamel paint and some talcum powder.

 

Regards,

 

CK

 

 

[railwayrod]

Really nice work Chris. Your efforts have brought the model to life.

 

Rod

Edited September 21, 2018 by railwayrod

[81A Oldoak]

The weathering of 3702 advances. As reported previously, I want a reasonably clean finish. Today I brush painted a blend of Humbrol enamels M32 Dark Grey and M98 Chocolate. I applied the paint in downwards brush strokes from the top of the cabsides, tanks and bunker. The dirt was then polished away with cotton buds allowing the polished green to shine through, but leaving small deposits of dirt around the rivets and handrail knobs. I think I have captured the effect I was seeking. Later, I will spray a very fine coat of the same colour to the top of the tanks and boiler etc and the cab roof. Gently does it.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

[Barnaby]

Very skillful Chris, a slowly changing model from toy-like to life-like.

 

Best

[MarshLane]

I am working up a Minerva 8750 pannier as 3702 with a GWR Shirtbutton totem. I  want this engine to be reasonably clean so started by polishing the superstructure with T-Cut. The first photo shows the polished cab against the unpolished tank. The second photo shows the polishing of the tank. I've noticed some spots of dried T-Cut that will need removing with a stiff brush. Decals and numberplates will go on tomorrow.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

 

Hi Chris,

This may be a silly question, but although I've seen T-Cut in the shops and heard about it, I've never used it.  I presume you just use the original colour restorer variant?  Have you then painted on top of this, I am assuming there's no varnish been added or anything at this stage?

 

Thanks for the step-by-step, really interesting.

 

Rich

[tomparryharry]

The weathering of 3702 advances. As reported previously, I want a reasonably clean finish. Today I brush painted a blend of Humbrol enamels M32 Dark Grey and M98 Chocolate. I applied the paint in downwards brush strokes from the top of the cabsides, tanks and bunker. The dirt was then polished away with cotton buds allowing the polished green to shine through, but leaving small deposits of dirt around the rivets and handrail knobs. I think I have captured the effect I was seeking. Later, I will spray a very fine coat of the same colour to the top of the tanks and boiler etc and the cab roof. Gently does it.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Looks good, Chris, much impressed.

[81A Oldoak]

Hi Chris,

This may be a silly question, but although I've seen T-Cut in the shops and heard about it, I've never used it.  I presume you just use the original colour restorer variant?  Have you then painted on top of this, I am assuming there's no varnish been added or anything at this stage?

 

Thanks for the step-by-step, really interesting.

 

Rich

Rich,

I use the original colour restorer version. The only paint that goes on top is the weathering mixtures and on the polished areas I then remove the paint leaving only deposits around ruvets, handrail knobs etc. Sometimes I will apply a very fine spray of thinned weathering colour to tone down slightly. I use either enamels or acrylics (Vallejo) for this. I sprayed the model last night and today, time permitting, I will do the detail weathering. 

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Andrew P]

Rich,

I use the original colour restorer version. The only paint that goes on top is the weathering mixtures and on the polished areas I then remove the paint leaving only deposits around ruvets, handrail knobs etc. Sometimes I will apply a very fine spray of thinned weathering colour to tone down slightly. I use either enamels or acrylics (Vallejo) for this. I sprayed the model last night and today, time permitting, I will do the detail weathering. 

 

Regards,

 

Chris

I have a certain Black Minerva Pannier that needs some spit and polish, so now I'm really inspired to get going on it.

 

Nice one Chris.

[NHY 581]

Autoglym resin car polish is also a good alternative and less likely to remove paint.

 

 

Rob.

[81A Oldoak]

I've posted this before, but here is my customised Ixion Fowler 0-4-0DM KITCHENER that was polished before weathering. 

[MarshLane]

Rich,

I use the original colour restorer version. The only paint that goes on top is the weathering mixtures and on the polished areas I then remove the paint leaving only deposits around ruvets, handrail knobs etc. Sometimes I will apply a very fine spray of thinned weathering colour to tone down slightly. I use either enamels or acrylics (Vallejo) for this. I sprayed the model last night and today, time permitting, I will do the detail weathering. 

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

 

Thanks Chris,

Much appreciated.  Do you put a matt varnish on once all the weathering is complete then?

 

Rich

[81A Oldoak]

Thanks Chris,

Much appreciated.  Do you put a matt varnish on once all the weathering is complete then?

 

Rich

Rich,

As a general rule, matt varnish gets nowhere near my models. It conceals the glossy finish I am trying to simulate with the polishing and, in my opinion, ruins the effect of weathering powders. For very dirty models, I find weathering powders do a good job flattening shininess and if they rub off with handling, I simply apply more. I seem to recall Martyn Welch saying that a GWR 45XX model that had that lovely oily finish that is so hard to reproduce, would only improve with handling. 

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Simond]

This is interesting. 

 

Kevin of Little Muddle, of this parish, uses matt varnish to significant effect on RTR stock. 

 

Chris doesn't, but achieves similarly excellent results with RTR (and other) stock. 

 

Rob of sheep fame similarly uses powders and "sealed with a light dusting of Humbrol matt acrylic powders" which I now wonder if is a misprint. 

 

Giles definitely uses T-cut, and I believe uses powders.  Not sure about dullcote

 

Chaz - er, paints, I think, but I can't remember, sorry

 

Jinty - paint and powders, would have to go searching to see whether he's using varnish, though I suspect not.

 

I've played with all sorts, and still haven't got any degree of confidence with acrylics on rolling stock, though I'm reasonably happy with the results I get with enamels.  My attempts with T-Cut nearly ended in tears...  I have not purchased or used Dullcote yet.

 

It would appear that there are perhaps several ways of skinning the cat, and it appears that one has to simply keep trying to find a reliable route to weathering nirvana...

 

Do keep posting chaps!

best

Simon

Edited October 3, 2018 by Simond

[NHY 581]

This is interesting. 

 

Kevin of Little Muddle, of this parish, uses matt varnish to significant effect on RTR stock. 

 

Chris doesn't, but achieves similarly excellent results with RTR (and other) stock. 

 

Rob of sheep fame similarly uses powders and "sealed with a light dusting of Humbrol matt acrylic powders" which I now wonder if is a misprint. 

 

Giles definitely uses T-cut, and I believe uses powders.  Not sure about dullcote

 

Chaz - er, paints, I think, but I can't remember, sorry

 

Jinty - paint and powders, would have to go searching to see whether he's using varnish, though I suspect not.

 

I've played with all sorts, and still haven't got any degree of confidence with acrylics on rolling stock, though I'm reasonably happy with the results I get with enamels.  My attempts with T-Cut nearly ended in tears...  I have not purchased or used Dullcote yet.

 

It would appear that there are perhaps several ways of skinning the cat, and it appears that one has to simply keep trying to find a reliable route to weathering nirvana...

 

Do keep posting chaps!

best

Simon

 

No misprint Simon. All my use of weathering powders is sealed with weathering powders. Some are removed using a fibre brush others are polished.

 

 

Rob.

[Regularity]

It would appear that there are perhaps several ways of skinning the cat, and it appears that one has to simply keep trying to find a reliable route to weathering nirvana...

 

I think that’s the essential point about modelling, as opposed to “box opening”. There is more than one way to achieve virtually anything, and ultimately it is about trying out other people’s ideas and methods until you have reached your own personal blend.

 

Me, I generally go for enamel paints, with a mixture of washes and dry brushing. (See example in this post. ) Friends who are seriously into acrylics can’t understand this, but I can’t cope with the rapid drying time which they claim to be the key to their success. Have played with powders a bit with some moderately acceptable results, but not happy with them yet.

Edited October 3, 2018 by Regularity

[Giles]

Slight correction, if I may...!

 

I DON'T use T-Cut - as I find it rather agressive, and it only polishes what is there. I use 2000 grit wet-and--dry (used wet) to completely flat the surface, and then buff it gently with kitchen roll, occasionally using a wipe of duraglit if I want a more polished look than I'm getting with the buffing. I never use any varnishes or anything, but use a variety of enamels, water-soluble oils, and powders for weathering.

 

Garratt by Giles Favell by giles favell, on Flickr

 

I usually use rattle cans for painting, and rubbing down with 2000 wet and dry also transforms that surface. 

Edited October 3, 2018 by Giles