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Brass NMRA N Gauge (9mm) Roller Gauges for code 40 BH Rail


PeteDavey
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I have been searching fruitlessly for some time now for 4 off Brass Roller Track Gauges for the "British N Gauge" rail width of 9mm but for code 40 rail. I have found similar items for code 75 and code 55 rail but none for code 40. I realise that I could shim the above but this seems like a nuisance when I have some 80 yards of copper clad track to build including many turnouts/points. Which leads me to my question, does anyone know where I can purchase such items? Or does anyone have the facilities to turn such gauges or could point me in the direction of someone who can? I am a realist, I'm not looking for mates rates or these items on the cheap, I'm just eager to acquire some as it is beginning to halt progress on my layout. Any help would be greatly appreciated :D

 

Pete.

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Obviously you will still need gauges to build your pointwork but I am wondering why you want to have copperclad track rather than fiNetrax.

 

One valid reason might be to build flat bottomed track - especially the concrete sleepered variety. I didn't think Wayne was doing that?

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Hi Pete I am looking into this at the moment, I have someone lined up to turn them for Scale 148, just need to get on and sort it as I need a set as well.

Hi,

I'm also interested in getting 4off NMRA gauges for 9mm gauge copperclad code 40 ... tramway track, so nothing else will do!

Please let me know if you succeed in getting any.

TIA,

Mike

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Obviously you will still need gauges to build your pointwork but I am wondering why you want to have copperclad track rather than fiNetrax.

I fully intend to use finetrax for the plain track but have a number of complex junctions and an elaborate fiddle yard configuration that will require custom templot points so thought the interconnecting track in these areas was best kept as copperclad.

 

Pete

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Gauges don't need to roll, when I need a gauge I don't have I just file a couple of notches in a bit of brass or steel strip. If you just solder the required rail to one sleeper using a vernier or similar to get the gauge right, then file your strip carefully to fit, just takes a few minutes. If you want it to stand up on its own another bit of strip can be attached at right angles to rest on the sleepers.

Regards

Keith

Edited by Grovenor
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Obviously you will still need gauges to build your pointwork but I am wondering why you want to have copperclad track rather than fiNetrax.

 

Dont forget that the finetrax range is still very limited and does not look like it will be expanding in the near future. Venture outside that small range and you might as well use the 2mm scale associations easitrack components because TBH its probably much easier.

 

M :)

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Gauges don't need to roll, when I need a gauge I don't have I just file a couple of notches in a bit of brass or steel strip. If you just solder the required rail to one sleeper using a vernier or similar to get the gauge right, then file your strip carefully to fit, just takes a few minutes. If you want it to stand up on its own another bit of strip can be attached at right angles to rest on the sleepers.

Regards

Keith

That's a very good idea Keith, thank you. I am amazed that there is not someone about with a small lathe who fancied making themselves a few quid. I have also considered approaching a commercial machine shop but have my doubts that they will take on components that small.

 

I am reluctant to go down the 2mm route as I don't have the skills, time or inclination to build my own locos and rolling stock at present, but may consider it for a future layout.

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Dont forget that the finetrax range is still very limited and does not look like it will be expanding in the near future. Venture outside that small range and you might as well use the 2mm scale associations easitrack components because TBH its probably much easier.

 

M :)

 

 

A bit baist if you ask me I have now read 2 posts today from you bashing this product. Do you know for a fact that the range will not be expanding? I suspect not, as you know things take time and money to develop. I wish I could develop new products quicker but time ticks away far to fast.

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I guess you are right Richard and I apologise.

 

It does come across a bit biased but I was trying to give an honest opinion. I am sure in time the range will expand but I get the distinct impression that this is not going to happen in the near future as there hasnt seen to be any progress with this product recently (trust me, I have been keeping a very close eye on it). Although no doubt it is a very good product the fact is currently the range IS extremely limited, especially for those who are not able to cope with basic kit building so I stand by my previous comment. I am just trying to warn people that this is not the panacea that they might think it is.

 

Sadly, when a single person is tasked with producing such things then you cannot expect lighting fast product turnaround.

 

M.

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Does anyone have the dimensions for such a gauge? Specifically the width of the grooves, I have someone who is willing to take a look to see if his tooling will go down that small. Any help would be much appreciated :D

 

Pete

Edited by PeteDavey
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Does anyone have the dimensions for such a gauge? Specifically the width of the grooves, I have someone who is willing to take a look to see if his tooling will go down that small. Any help would be much appreciated :D

Pete[/quote

 

The 2mmSA code 40 bullhead I have is, as you might expect 40 thou high. It is 20thou wide (over the head). So roughly 1mmx0.5mm. Code 40 flatbottom will be the same height, and the head width should be the same. The foot will of course be wider, perhaps as much as the rail height.

 

If you want roller gauges made, but there is problems with the tooling, then why not consider making them from a number of parts. Washers/Tubes of various sizes and thicknesses and held together with a nut and bolt. Roller gauges for various tasks have been made this way in the past.

 

Izzy

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Thank you Izzy. I must admit I hadn't thought of assembling them from parts, if I draw a blank on getting them machined I think that will be the way forward. Thank you :)

Pete

I wasn't just thinking of this as a method for hand making them, but rather that it makes machining the parts easy on a lathe with simple/limited tooling, the size of which then ceases to be a factor.

 

Izzy

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Thank you Izzy. I must admit I hadn't thought of assembling them from parts, if I draw a blank on getting them machined I think that will be the way forward. Thank you :)

 

Pete

 

 

Hi Pete

As I said before I am looking into these and will hopefully sort out the details tomorrow evening.

 

I'll be in touch soon with an update.

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Hi Pete

As I said before I am looking into these and will hopefully sort out the details tomorrow evening.

I'll be in touch soon with an update.

Brilliant, thank you Richard, if they are likely to be available within the next few weeks I can shy away from the 2mm route. I am unsure if I have the time (or skills) to produce both a layout and locos/rolling stock! :)

 

Pete

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  • 1 month later...

I have now found someone who has very kindly agreed to make the above roller gauges and crossing nose gauges. The roller gauges are being machined with a 0.85mm check rail clearance. It is now my intention to build a turnout using the above gauges and the same to 2mmfs standards to make an informed decision on which way to go. I have had to place an order for 20 of each for both the roller gauges and crossing nose gauges so will have some surplus to requirements. PM me if anyone is interested.

 

Pete

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Hi Pete

That is a shame as I have got mine into production getting a test cut done ready for approval, due this week. Good luck with this project.

It's not a problem, the plan is to try yours too! Just let me know when they are available. I want to experiment with the flangeways to get modern N Gauge stock to run smoothly before committing it to a layout. If I am unsuccessful then I will go 2mmfs, this is a last resort as my modelling interests are with the layout, not stock or loco fettling. Each to their own I guess

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Hi, Mine are being done in association with Scale 148 to 9i standards - approximately 0.93mm flangways. We are waiting for test sample for approval and check the dims are correct.

Wow, that does seem a bit on the generous side.

 

I am not familiar with Scale 148 standards, but PeteDavey's 0.85mm sounds much better to me. That is close to the experimental point I built a few weeks ago. Everything I had ran through that fine, though I only have recently produced stock..

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