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Today I FINALLY got around to making 'Evil Thomas' work properly. Since the loco was the subject of this thread way back on page 1, I'd say it was about time!.

 

It's now fully working with Battery Power/Radio Control. The battery and receiver are currently stuffed in the cab. It's a constant bother that none of the batteries I have seem to fit locos properly, they are always slightly too big in one dimension. I hope that painting this black and adding a crew should disguise it.

 

The chassis is a standard Bachmann 'Junior' 0-6-0 with an extension made from a Hornby L1 pony truck and styrene strip.

 

Here's a test on the worktop. Inertia is set to about one quarter.

Edited by Corbs
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A few pics of the installation now I've done a bit more.

 

Packed out the top of the boiler with liquid gravity and glue for more weight.

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I used some glue 'n glaze to simulate a water spill down the tankside.

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The switch is visible below the cab on one side, the charging port was mounted through a plastic bracket I found in the pile of rubbish and offcuts on my desk, and glued under the cab on the other side. Both need a bit of blackening and will be hidden a bit behind the cab steps.

 

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'Evil Thomas' now fitted with an upconverter from 3.7v to 9v output. The controller is more sensitive (spurt of speed past the hut) and the top speed and power is improved. The 120mah battery means that compared to TK&F No.5 it can go a decent amount of time between recharges.

 

I think what I need to do next is rationalise and tidy up the install inside the shell, as it's pretty ugly in there! I've ordered some new batteries which may solve the 'in cab' issue.

Edited by Corbs
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Gah. As with TK&F No.5, the 9v upconverter proved unsatisfactory.

I ran some tests, and the 120mah battery took 16 minutes to charge, but only ran for an average of 6 minutes.

I took the 9v upconverter out again, and achieved a running time of 21 minutes, which is a bit more respectable. I think I'm going to leave it like this for the time being and put up with slow running. At least these are mostly shunting locos.

 

Both tests conducted at full throttle with the loco upside down.

 

What I really need is something in the middle. A large capacity battery and a smaller upconverter, say 5v. Looks like I can buy some online. I think if I were to build a loco, I'd put in a lower rated motor to begin with.

 

In better news, my Avonside 0-6-0ST 'Portbury' got some details last night.

I've finally added a smokebox handrail, bufferbeam letters and numbers, water pump piping (including control rod) and the pump itself from a piece of scrap plastic, likewise the injector on the fireman's side added with a leak-off pipe. I like it even more now!

 

I think it still needs safety valve and coupling details.

 

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Edited by Corbs
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Hi Corbs. That's a perfect match of loco and scenery. I really like those greys and browns. You can say what you want but locos look better running on a layout than on the kitchen table  :jester:  

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Just been having a good look through your thread, some pretty epic projects there Corbs! Especially like the "Evil Thomas" and Portbury industrials, right up my street.

 

Out of curiosity how well do the Bachmann junior locos run? Being cheap chassis I had wondered whether to try one in a project.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Martyn.

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Hi Corbs. That's a perfect match of loco and scenery. I really like those greys and browns. You can say what you want but locos look better running on a layout than on the kitchen table  :jester:  

Thanks Mikkel! Yes I think the colour palette for the layout is a mix of grey and brown so Portbury fits right in :)

 

Just been having a good look through your thread, some pretty epic projects there Corbs! Especially like the "Evil Thomas" and Portbury industrials, right up my street.

 

Out of curiosity how well do the Bachmann junior locos run? Being cheap chassis I had wondered whether to try one in a project.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Martyn.

 

Thanks Martyn! I have found the junior chassis to be quite good. It does seem like you need to be careful when cutting away excess plastic, though. It turns out that the 'cogging' experienced with evil thomas was due to the motor surround being mounted at one end only, so every now and again it would jump up and skip a cog. I've tightened it down for now which seems to have helped.

I managed to buy 3 'junior' saddle tanks with water damaged boxes quite cheaply, and late at night earlier this week had a flash of panic at the rising cost of small locos, and panic-bought 3 electrotren/golden valley 0-6-0T locos while they were under £50, and another Bachmann 'greg' (aka 'not percy') and 'stuart' (aka 'not thomas'). I should not be allowed on ebay late at night.

 

A tip I got from 'relaxinghobby' is using the HO scale Bachmann 0-6-0 wheels on the junior axles, available from Bachmann USA's spares site.

I was converting one of the chassis the other day. Planning to make a Manning Wardle using one of the chassis.

 

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Here's almost a 'before and after' of Portbury with its base model.

 

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Edited by Corbs
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I managed to buy 3 'junior' saddle tanks with water damaged boxes quite cheaply, and late at night earlier this week had a flash of panic at the rising cost of small locos, and panic-bought 3 electrotren/golden valley 0-6-0T locos while they were under £50, and another Bachmann 'greg' (aka 'not percy') and 'stuart' (aka 'not thomas'). I should not be allowed on ebay late at night.

 

A tip I got from 'relaxinghobby' is using the HO scale Bachmann 0-6-0 wheels on the junior axles, available from Bachmann USA's spares site.

I was converting one of the chassis the other day. Planning to make a Manning Wardle using one of the chassis.

Thanks Corbs, I find the Electrotren chassis a good, very quiet, runner, apart from the flanges are deeper than some and tended to find the odd bit of stuck ballast on my code 75 Peco track until I went round it all with a pointy screwdriver!

 

Yes it is the large wheels that thus far put me off the Junior 0-6-0, handy to know they can be changed! The 0-4-0 version would be useful for my old Barclay kit built tank which is not in the best of health.

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Aye, the only downside of the 0-4-0 is the wheel spacing is huge! I struggle to find many prototype 0-4-0 locos with the same wheel spacing. The wheels on the 'not percy' would not be able to downsize, either. The keeper plate underneath is so low it catches on the kadee magnets.

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http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82465-corbs-cobbling-avonside-0-6-0st-portbury-back-on-the-workbench-and-radio-control-tests/page-3

Have a look at the page above, I used a razor saw to cut the bottom of the tanks off, removed some height, then re-attached them as the tanks are over large for the loco otherwise.

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Major failing of my BPRC setup: The controller runs off a normal 9v battery (non rechargeable). Which I, naturally, have no spares of, so when it runs out that is an end to the fun. To the faithful battery's credit, it's lasted since I began the foray into BPRC.

 

Anyway, more Avonside business.

When I first made 'Perseus', I used Hornby Adams Radial cylinders/crosshead/slidebars, which I liked the look of, but they were so bodged they ended up very flimsy and fell apart. I ended up substituting the Hornby Pug motion, which was ok, but just screams 'Hornby Pug'.

 

Today I had a go at using the motion from a Bachmann 'Greg' (aka NotPercy). The connecting rods were too long, so I drilled new holes and trimmed off the ends. Looks much better with the cylinders under the chimney.

 

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Major failing of my BPRC setup: The controller runs off a normal 9v battery (non rechargeable). Which I, naturally, have no spares of, so when it runs out that is an end to the fun. To the faithful battery's credit, it's lasted since I began the foray into BPRC.

These are rechargeable.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9V-800mAh-USB-Rechargeable-Lipo-Battery-for-RC-Helicopter-Model-Microphone-zx/263178934553

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A little update but I'm quite pleased with it, I finally lined out the cabside on Perseus' pre-war side, and added the number and works plates.

This was followed by some matt lacquer to dull down the shininess. 

I've also installed a switch (just behind the cab steps) so I don't have to constantly remove the body to unplug the battery. I need to find a spot for a charging port next, so the whole loco can stay together.

 

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Here's my 'Percy' posed with Bachmann's 'Percy'. I hope that I've managed to capture the essence of a large, heavy Avonside 0-4-0ST (essentially a shortened B3) without it looking too oversized.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The YEC loco looks super, always thought they look almost too modern.

 

Should have posted this sooner, your Avonside being put to bed at Bristol Harbour Railway back in August.

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I'm surprised no one has done a "preserved" layout based on this yet, some interesting stock there, combined with harbour side warehouses, cranes and modern housing developments. Almost tempted myself!

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