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  • RMweb Gold

I play with the trains for my cat owner. He has a favourite - the little Avonside 'Perseus'. Whenever it's in operation, he hears it and runs into the room, and watches the loco intently. It must be a noise it makes, or he just really likes shunting locos...

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  • RMweb Gold

The FR 4-4-0 has been sat to one side for a while now. I had painted the black bits with some badly mixed paint. The damn stuff would not dry, and eventually I ran out of patience, took as much dust and hair off as I could, and sprayed the whole thing with dullcote, which managed to dry the black.

 

This meant I could look into the chassis. I had originally intended to use the 3D printed SCC one, but I rather got cold feet about it and wussed out a bit.

 

The axle spacing is roughly the same as the Hornby 0-4-0, so I got hold of a chassis, took the motor out (too wide for the boiler), sawed off all the unnecessary bits, and it fits ok.

Black 5 wheels are the right size for the not-a-K2 (although wrong spokes). The axle sizes are different so I pressed them on to the smokey joe axles with the vice. 

post-898-0-80346200-1518734861_thumb.jpg

post-898-0-56088900-1518734898_thumb.jpg

 

The smokey joe rods fitted with some washers for the time being.

 

This motor is from eBay, the output shaft was too big for the SJ worm gear so I drilled out one and filed down the other.

post-898-0-44327100-1518734954_thumb.jpg

 

The body posed here without the motor. I need to take some of the cab floor out (which should be easy-ish to disguise) to allow the worm to fit.

post-898-0-68898600-1518735132_thumb.jpg

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The FR 4-4-0 has been sat to one side for a while now. I had painted the black bits with some badly mixed paint. The damn stuff would not dry, and eventually I ran out of patience, took as much dust and hair off as I could, and sprayed the whole thing with dullcote, which managed to dry the black.

 

This meant I could look into the chassis. I had originally intended to use the 3D printed SCC one, but I rather got cold feet about it and wussed out a bit.

 

The axle spacing is roughly the same as the Hornby 0-4-0, so I got hold of a chassis, took the motor out (too wide for the boiler), sawed off all the unnecessary bits, and it fits ok.

Black 5 wheels are the right size for the not-a-K2 (although wrong spokes). The axle sizes are different so I pressed them on to the smokey joe axles with the vice. 

attachicon.gifIMG_4804.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_4806.JPG

 

The smokey joe rods fitted with some washers for the time being.

 

This motor is from eBay, the output shaft was too big for the SJ worm gear so I drilled out one and filed down the other.

attachicon.gifIMG_4809.JPG

 

The body posed here without the motor. I need to take some of the cab floor out (which should be easy-ish to disguise) to allow the worm to fit.

attachicon.gifIMG_4816.JPG

Wonderful! Glad to see it on the layout and making good progress! I gotta say, it's coming on very well.

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Wonderful to see work started on the almost a K2.  Some years ago I modelled the Furness so I'm always pleased to see a Furness based model.  With all the pre-group suitable items now available for 00 I've been tempted more than once to return to 4mm modelling, but at my age and with this illness I have 7mm is the smallest I can successfully work in. (le sigh).

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Ooooh, I love the bodging (and I use that as a term of praise!) to use the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis under this. Is there any chance you could measure the wheelbase on the 3d-printed chassis (or, indeed, on the Hornby 0-4-0 if they're that close?). I'm also looking into one of these not-K2s for a fictional line, but would prefer to use an RTR chassis if at all possible...

Edit: Sorry, ignore me - managed to find the wheelbase after all. However, I'd still be very interested to see how you've mounted the 0-4-0 chassis...

Edited by Skinnylinny
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  • RMweb Gold

Posed with a GBL caley tender, Edward needs levelling out a bit but getting there, certainly less tall-looking than before.

 

The front bogie is just for testing, it's a tad too long really.

 

post-898-0-96568900-1518906591_thumb.jpg

 

I rather like the 3 lined blue locos posed together. If I get my act together I'll make an MPD diorama where I can line more of the fleet up...

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A lovely finish on the Not-Seagull too.  What, may I ask, was the material is was printed in.

 

When in funds I want to make a freelance version of Knuckes's SPC, and several of his 4-wheel Sharp Stewart tenders, so am interested in your experience of the medium.   

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks! Both the E2 and the K2* are printed in FUD. I do have the 'proper' K2* chassis printed in BSF as well.

What I would say is that WSF/BSF can be brilliant as Nile proved, but it requires more prep work.
I barely did any prep on the FUD models, just cleaned them, a light sanding then filler primer, but FUD is VERY brittle and can snap easily. I've snapped bits off every one I've done. WSF is much more durable.

However I much prefer FUD.

 

*not a K2

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Posed with a GBL caley tender, Edward needs levelling out a bit but getting there, certainly less tall-looking than before.

 

The front bogie is just for testing, it's a tad too long really.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_4824.JPG

 

I rather like the 3 lined blue locos posed together. If I get my act together I'll make an MPD diorama where I can line more of the fleet up...

Gosh! Now, it's coming along nicely!

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  • RMweb Gold

I barely did any prep on the FUD models, just cleaned them, a light sanding then filler primer, but FUD is VERY brittle and can snap easily. I've snapped bits off every one I've done. WSF is much more durable.

However I much prefer FUD

Thanks for info, Corbs. Can I ask: How well does the FUD take glue, and which kind works best?

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