Bryan the Snail's workbench.

[gz3xzf]

Ok, not too much done at the workbench this week, too much time spent riding around on this: -

 

 

But this did arrive on Friday: -

 

 

I now need to source the wheels and motor for the kit, which is a PDK SR L1 4-4-0. I haven't built a brass kit since doing a Mallard Models GWR 517 Class 0-4-2T back in the early 80's.

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[Tony Teague]

Hi Bryan

I have two of the excellent PDK L1's, one each in SR Maunsell olive and SR Bulleid malachite.

For info, malachite liveried no.1786 is shown here:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/115550-churminster-stowe-magna-southern-railway/?p=2644236

I will take a closer pic of it and the olive version and post them shortly.

Good luck with the builds - it is fair to say that mine were built for me so I can't comment as to complexity etc.

 

Tony

[Tony Teague]

Hi Bryan

 

Here now are a couple of shots of the lined olive version of the PDK L1:

 

 

 

It is a nice looking loco and I think the PDK model captures it well.

 

Hope these help!

 

Tony

[gz3xzf]

Thanks for those Tony, it has answered one question already, where the pipe cover goes (the sloping strip on the left side of the firebox), this is most likely to be the lubrication pipes for the cylinders or axle boxes. I have no technical knowledge of the L1, sadly there are none left to go and have a look at.

 

The next build I am likely to start is one of the two DJH L Class locos I have (post #119), I also need to finish off the two SEF tank locos.

 

BTW: Paul Hill at PDK is a very helpful chap, I E-mailed PDK asking if they did an etch with the window bars (for the back of the two tank engines) and although PDK don't do them, they had a couple of packs of the Mainly Trains etches surplus to requirements. Obviously they have made their way to Dorset now.

Edited June 8, 2017 by gz3xzf

[Tony Teague]

These two L1's were built for me some time ago, and I'd now want to have included the lamp brackets which are conspicuous by their absence and need adding. Otherwise, they are nice models.

 

Let me know if pictures of L's, H's or R1's would be of interest!

 

Tony

[gz3xzf]

On 09/06/2017 at 17:33, Tony Teague said:

These two L1's were built for me some time ago, and I'd now want to have included the lamp brackets which are conspicuous by their absence and need adding. Otherwise, they are nice models.

 

Let me know if pictures of L's, H's or R1's would be of interest!

 

Tony

 

Thanks Tony, I am considering buying a etched set of lamp brackets for the L1, PDK supply some staples to be cut up and used for making the brackets, but having fitted the etched ones to the H and the R1 they do look good although a bit fiddly to fit.

 

Today I have started one of the L's and managed to get the first four parts soldered together: -

 

Next is the chassis, I will be trying out the Poppy's Wood Tech chassis builder box I bought.

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Bit more progress on the DJH Wainwright L class.

First picture is of the chassis in the Poppy WoodTech builder box, I bought the 8 coupled version which, so far, I am happy with: -

 

I used the box to fix the two frames together and fit the axle bushes, I found my temperature controlled 25W soldering iron was too small to heat up the axle bushes for soldering, so for now they have been super-glued in place. My wife has an old 100W iron which I am going to try out later to solder the motor mount in place, if that works OK, then the bushes will be removed, cleaned and redone with solder.

 

The next piece on the instructions is to fix the chassis retaining nuts to the running plate casting, so here is the complete unit with the one-piece boiler resting in place, you can see the front fixing screw with its nut under the boiler: -

 

 

The DJH instructions suggest that the rear most chassis fixing screw should be threaded into the hole in the white-metal running plate. I didn't like this idea as I would expect the soft metal threads would fail with repeated use, so I have soldered a nut to the top of the plate and filed it down to make sure the footplate base can be mounted on top: -

 

This has given me a further problem in that the kit comes with 4 nuts and screws, which I assumed would be 8BA, but it appears they are metric, the bogie mounting requires three nuts, so I am short 1 nut now. I think I will replace the bogie mounting screw with an 8BA set screw and nuts.

 

That's all for now.

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Not much to report on the L class since last week, but at Warminster show I did add another kit to the growing queue: -

 

 

I also discovered that SEF have started doing an etch of rear spectacles with grilles, here they are compared to some of the Mainly Trains products: -

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[DLT]

Hi Bryan,

 

Blast!

I didn't spot those etched spectacles and grills, even though I spent quite a long time at the SEF stand!  Thanks for pointing them out.

 

I like the look of that Builder Box you are using for the L class, another new one to me.

 

You are right about the screws supplied with DJH Kits, they are M2, which is slightly smaller than 8BA.  The practical/kitbuilding side of model railways seems to be well wedded to the use of BA threads, I don't know of anyone other than DJH who supply metric.

I keep any metric screws well away from the modelling bench, the last thing you want to do is get them mixed up.

 

All the best, Dave.

[gz3xzf]

Hi Bryan,

 

Blast!

I didn't spot those etched spectacles and grills, even though I spent quite a long time at the SEF stand!  Thanks for pointing them out.

 

I like the look of that Builder Box you are using for the L class, another new one to me.

 

You are right about the screws supplied with DJH Kits, they are M2, which is slightly smaller than 8BA.  The practical/kitbuilding side of model railways seems to be well wedded to the use of BA threads, I don't know of anyone other than DJH who supply metric.

I keep any metric screws well away from the modelling bench, the last thing you want to do is get them mixed up.

 

All the best, Dave.

Hi Dave

Yes there was a bundle of them in one of the boxes of bits on the table, Dave Ellis (I think that's his name) told me that they were only a couple of weeks old.

I have already started using the M2 screws in the kit, but I will need to use an 8BA one later as I have used one of the nuts for the rear chassis fixing.

[gz3xzf]

In between bouts of gardening I have spent a couple of sessions at my workbench, I have got the loco chassis ready for the motor, gearbox and electrical pick-ups, but then I discovered a fault on the gearbox: -

 

As you can see the axle holes are not parallel to the horizontal axis of the gearbox, needless to say it is on it's way back to DJH for replacement.

 

As work on the loco has been temporarily suspended I have moved on to the tender for some light relief, first I fitted the buffer beam, front dragbox and one side frame to the tender running plate, at this point I decided that rather than fixing the second side framing permanently with the wheels trapped between the two, I would make it detachable, here are some pictures of what transpired: -

 

 

I also decided that all tender wheels would have pick-ups fitted, so here is a bit of Veroboard ready for them: -

 

I have now fitted the pick-ups, these are simple p/b strips rubbing on the flanges at the top of the wheels: -

 

This view from the top shows the pick-ups and the two 8BA nuts soldered to the top of the tender running plate.

 

 

I have created a plug and socket at the front for the cables to the loco.

 

I have now realised that there doesn't seem to be any provision in this kit for a loco/tender coupling. I feel another mail to DJH coming on, they have had three already.

 

That's all for now folks!

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[DLT]

Hi Bryan, 

I wanted to rate your latest post Craftmanship/Clever AND Freindly/Supportive, but we are only allowed one.

Cheers, Dave.

[gz3xzf]

Ok, couple of things have happened in the last few days, firstly the wheels for the L1 arrived from SEF, I decided I would try the Scalelink wheels that David Ellis is selling and I also bought an etch of various lamp irons for the L class & the L1. Secondly I have received the replacement motor and gearbox from DJH for the L class. Lastly I have ordered some bits and pieces from Markits for various builds, still waiting for that order to arrive, been over a week now!

 

On to the current build, I sorted the tender coupling using a piece of brass sheet cut about 7mm wide, a double set from above the rear loco frame spacer got the strip under the loco and tender buffer beams. The loco end has a N/S washer soldered to it and a 2mm hole for the rear chassis fixing screw. The tender has a 10mm 8BA stud soldered into the dragbox: -

 

The loco and tender coupled together: -

 

Lastly with the new motor in the foreground, the loco looks like it dips at the front as it is front heavy and the tender is holding the back down: -

 

 

I have test fitted the motor to the chassis and discovered that it requires about 10mm taken out of the bottom of the boiler as the DJH AM10 unit is not the original one for this kit.

 

The next job is to finish the chassis build, get the pickups working and run it in on DC. I am going to fit a 6-pin decoder socket (to take a Gaugemaster DCC28).

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

OK, this week I have had two afternoons enjoying the Dorset countryside from the footplate of the Standard 4 Tank at Swanage. Thursday was our wedding anniversary and we met with our Best Man from 26 years ago for lunch. Yesterday and today due to the poor weather conditions I have been indoors working on the L class.

 

As I said above, the replacement motor and gearbox had arrived so I have got further along on the chassis, as I did with the R1 tank I have fitted the chassis with a 6-pin DCC socket which will slide down the boiler barrel when the loco is together. I have fixed "back-scratcher" pick-ups to the two driving wheels, as on the R1 I have fitted them to both the insulated and the non-insulated sides, here is a view from the underside (the wires on the right are the connection to the tender pick-ups): -

 

I have made the DCC socket detachable using some Maplins modular connector sockets (same as used for the plug/socket on the tender), here is a general view of the chassis with the DCC socket: -

 

Finally I have made a plastikard box (as per Pete McFarlane's build here) to represent the bottom of the firebox and ashpan: -

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Nearly a month since I posted anything, it has been a busy month! Swanage Railway have had a shortage of steam so things have been busy trying to get some locos working, good news is that during the 8th August the U class (31806) was deemed fit for traffic and is now running again; here she is at Harmans Cross sporting an overhauled set of motion, a new coat of BR lined black, a new tender and a quantity of mainline electronics: -

 

 

Back on topic, the L class has had some bits and pieces done, a couple of pictures of the bogie, on which I decided to make the axles removable, I held the plates together with a couple of self-tapping screws, I have also fitted the front coupling using a Bachmann small tension lock mounted on a piece of nickel-silver sheet soldered to the bogie chassis; I have also tried blacking the white-metal using some of my wife's lead patina used normally for stained glass windows, don't think I will bother with that anymore: -

 

 

 

I have also fitted a coupling to the tender, this time using a spacer made from plastikard and a NEM socket from Parkside Dundas: -

 

 

 

Lastly I have added some more weight in the front of the boiler to overcome the tension of the bogie spring, otherwise the spring forces the front driving wheels off the track, hopefully this will not give me grief later, i.e. the loco is too heavy for the motor drive: -

 

(I will have to have a look at this more closely as the picture gives the impression that the loco is going up hill, may be an optical illusion!)

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Not much been happening on the L class recently, I have been down to Swanage for a number of days in the last month and been working on this: -

 

Although it looks the part I am afraid there are a number of gauging issues, I have a couple of roller gauges which I have used during the build but I still haven't been accurate enough on some of the crossings. A pair of Romford 14mm tender wheels run though it and I have tested with a Bachmann 16T BR mineral waggon, but a Hornby Terrier is binding up in a couple of places. I am waiting for a some of diamond cutting disks to arrive for the Dremmel to allow some fine fettling to be done.

I have added all the switch rails which are pivoted on a short length of 1mm NS rod soldered to the end of the moving rail and down through a hole in a sleeper, but I have yet to add the tie rod to the toe end of the blades.

 

This has been built on a XtrkCad print of a Peco SL-93 short diamond crossing with the slip track added with a large compass (610mm radius) and I used some pictures off the Internet for reference of where and what crossings/check rails were needed. I did download Templot to help with the design, but I found the software completely unusable, it needed a huge amount of time spent understanding the software, it didn't seem intuitive at all.

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[hayfield]

It may be that the check rails need slightly larger clearances (that's why Peco have short check rails) as the wheels cannot move sideways in their chassis enough. Also try longer wheelbase wagons

[gz3xzf]

It may be that the check rails need slightly larger clearances (that's why Peco have short check rails) as the wheels cannot move sideways in their chassis enough. Also try longer wheelbase wagons

Thanks John, that would do the trick as the issue is the back-to-back of the Terrier is not enough, so the additional clearance would sort it out.

[Ian J.]

Could you open out the B2Bs of the Terrier a little?

[gz3xzf]

Could you open out the B2Bs of the Terrier a little?

I have a B2B gauge from Markits and have discovered that even the Romford wheel set mentioned above were very tight which surprised me!

[gz3xzf]

Right, haven't posted anything for over a year, I have had a bit of a loss of confidence and haven't touched the L class since then either. The trackwork building has moved on with a delivery of code 75 bullhead rail and copper clad sleepers; I also just about learnt to use Templot which was interesting and I have built this: -

 

I am in the process of building a small layout based on Gordon Gravett's Arun Quay track plan, but it is very slow as I haven't properly built a layout for over 30 years.

Changing the subject slightly, I have acquired a Bachmann Wickham Type 27 Trolly: -

 

I had a look at an article in Hornby Magazine but didn't want to go the full sound & light route, so I settled for a Gaugemaster DCC22 (very small decoder) fitted under the floor. I decided that with a small bit of modification the decoder would fit in the void under the car body; so the first job was to move the fixing screw for the little printed circuit board: -

 

I used the screw to cut a new thread and then cut off the old mounting hole as shown. I also had to file some material away from the axlebox sides to get the decoder in, remove the components from the printed circuit board (two chokes and two capacitors) and then solder the decoder wires into the holes vacated by the chokes, the track wires to the front holes and motor to the rear (the circuit board shows which way round to fix the wires): -

 

I added two pieces of the sticky part of a Post-it note to the bottom of the bodywork just to add a tiny bit more clearance: -

 

Here is the finished model posed between a Hattons AB and a Hornby L&Y Pug in the cabinet: -

 

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[Jack P]

Hi Bryan

 

Did you manage to make any more progress with either the R1 or the L?

[gz3xzf]

Hi Jack

 

I'm afraid I have had a bit of a loss of enthusiasm over the last year and nothing has happened to the 3 locos I'm building (H, R1 & L) and the small shunting layout. This has mainly been due to a bit of a confidence issue and also spending the summer 2019 (July, August & September) being the part time shed foreman at Swanage Railway. The current situation has made me have another look at things and I am currently moving my model railway room into my daughters old bedroom (as she has now moved out and got married). So I'm hoping to pick-up tools again and re-start posting updates on here.

 

The H and the R1 are both stripped down for an initial stab at painting, this is my nemesis, I am really scared of it. They will both be  needing a bit of fettling after painting to get them finished.
I need to finish building the L, I cannot even remember what is left to do, but I think the tender superstructure needs finishing and then detailing, then the dreaded painting and lining; I have all the Fox's transfers in stock ready for that.

 

Then there is this: -

 

 

This is a OO shunting layout based on the track diagram of Arun Quay, 110cm X 40CM, the track is all laid (DCC control), electrics done, most buildings built, needs the cobbles laid and the remainder of the scenery completed.

Lastly, I also have another DJH L class, a SEF P class and a PDK L1 class in storage!

 

Perhaps I'll take a photo of the new workbench later when I have finished finding a home for everything.

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

OK, another update in less than a week!
I have finished moving and sorting the model railway work bench, commandeered a desk and an old kitchen unit carcass (I was already using the old dining table on the right). I have also sorted and rationalised all the odd toolboxes, crates and cardboard boxes which contained the modelling paraphernalia, here it is: -

 

I have decided to start off quietly with a plastic kit I bought a while ago for putting on the shunting layout: -

 

I'll hopefully post a picture of some progress next week sometime.

Anyway, hope everybody has been surviving during lock-down and COVID19, all keeping safe and well.

Edited October 3, 2023 by gz3xzf
I don't know my left from my right! Re-adding Photos

[Jack P]

Bryan,

 

Sorry to hear about the loss of enthusiasm, It happens to all of us i'm sure!

 

The shunting layout looks fantastic, as does your new set up.

 

Looking forward to seeing more progress!

Edited June 16, 2020 by Jack P