Porcy Mane Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Hmmm, possibilities and hope for the Judith Edge clayton then? Be adventurous Mike. Get out your hacksaw and chop up a Heljan... today! Clearing that cab area. No probs. P 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2018 Be adventurous Mike. Get out your hacksaw and chop up a Heljan... today! Clearing that cab area. No probs. P I used/adapted/bodged a HL Lowrider, a simpler fixing version would help, but if Chris sees no volume in it, then no problem. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryP Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Chris, whilst you may have decided against 7mm gearboxes, your loco kits would prove popular, especially since Agenoria has gone. They were a very popular range under the old owner. I for one would be after a Black Hawthorn in 7mm and probably one or two others. I also reckon the gearboxes would be good sellers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Chris, whilst you may have decided against 7mm gearboxes, your loco kits would prove popular, especially since Agenoria has gone. They were a very popular range under the old owner. I for one would be after a Black Hawthorn in 7mm and probably one or two others. I also reckon the gearboxes would be good sellers. I second the need for a good value gearbox that works out of the box but does not cost the earth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
black and decker boy Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 I’ll just pop this here as well. One of Chris’s kits: 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Popplewell Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Hey, hang on! I never got to see this! Didn't even know you'd tried making a bevel box. If you'd consider one for 4mm scale, I'd be beating a path to your stand!! So would I, no more nasty worms. Mind you I must admit Chris's gearboxes take some beating, but bevel drive in theory is a much more mechanically elegant and efficient engineering solution. If Chris can make worm gears work so good, what could he do with bevel drive!! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 So would I, no more nasty worms. Mind you I must admit Chris's gearboxes take some beating, but bevel drive in theory is a much more mechanically elegant and efficient engineering solution. If Chris can make worm gears work so good, what could he do with bevel drive!! Pleeeeze, Chris, pimp our drives! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Now that HL are using grub screwed worm wheels they are very good indeed. Having said that using bevel gears would make them even better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 So would I, no more nasty worms. Mind you I must admit Chris's gearboxes take some beating, but bevel drive in theory is a much more mechanically elegant and efficient engineering solution. If Chris can make worm gears work so good, what could he do with bevel drive!! I've only built one of Chris's motor mounts, which I found very good but haven't noticed an appreciable difference to a well set up worm and gear, using the 100DP type pioneered by Ultrascale, in an etched mount.The original Romford gears were not good, with straight cut gears that didn't mesh cleanly. A first stage bevel drive would be good, but would probably mean commissioning the gears from a specialist supplier. The mesh of the gears has also got to be controlled, so setting up the end play on each gear would need careful attention by the builder. Contrate and pinion gears offer the same "reverse drive" advantage as bevel gears and while the pinion doesn't need close control of its end float, the contrate gear has to be held correctly in mesh, so more setting up issues. I mention this type because moulded gears are available from Ultrascale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Level Kits Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Bevels won’t give much of a reduction, say 3:1, so that means bigger gears, or more gears, in the rest of the box, so it’s less compact. RG4s got away with it because the motor could handle the higher ratios. The bevel box was 7mm scale and so the box and gears, in relation to the loco, was much smaller, as was the motor. As I said, the O scale lot showed no interest. I had the thing on the stand for long enough, then gave up. I've found the formula of smallish gears and worms seems to work well in practice and is very flexible. I can motorise a tiny engine like the Hudswell Clarke with 108:1 reduction and a 1224, but also provide 34:1 with a big 1420 can for a pacific, both using standard components. There are other ways of doing things of course. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted March 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2018 'Scuse me asking, but what is a bevel drive? Is it what's in the old Portescrap gearboxes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 'Scuse me asking, but what is a bevel drive? Is it what's in the old Portescrap gearboxes? Yes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 Currently in the midst of putting a 14XX chassis kit together which (despite my unintentional efforts to the contrary) is coming along nicely. In particular, I have just put together the etched axlebox/hornguide assemblies and have to say that they are brilliant! The design is genius, especially the little tab and pin that hold it all together. Well done Gibbons,11/10 for effort and go to the top of the class. Again. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Level Kits Posted March 22, 2018 Author Share Posted March 22, 2018 Currently in the midst of putting a 14XX chassis kit together which (despite my unintentional efforts to the contrary) is coming along nicely. In particular, I have just put together the etched axlebox/hornguide assemblies and have to say that they are brilliant! The design is genius, especially the little tab and pin that hold it all together. Well done Gibbons,11/10 for effort and go to the top of the class. Again. Many thanks Mr 50. I did that kit before the MiniBlox came out, which would now be the obvious choice for the trailing wheel. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted March 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25, 2018 Currently in the midst of putting a 14XX chassis kit together A 14XX on 'Enigma Engineering? Intriguing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 A 14XX on 'Enigma Engineering? Intriguing! Don't think about it to hard Tim. After S4N 'Enigma' will be in the hands of a new owner - thanks to you pointing him in the right direction. I'm currently thinking hard about a possible replacement that will make use of the several Western Region locos I've completed recently, originally intended for the ill-fated FoD layout. The 14xx chassis, whilst looking very complicated at first glance, is in fact extremely well thought out and not difficult to construct - and everything fits! I've got a couple of Pannier ones to do along with the L&Y steeple cab loco. If they're as good as the 14xx I'll be well pleased. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Level Kits Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) Test etches are now being produced for a replacement chassis for the Hornby J50. There are a number of frame options, and plain or fluted rods are included. Our approach differs from previous kits as there are less building options. Working on the assumption that all OO modellers will be happy with the model as it comes, it will be EM/P4 only. The frames come with hornblock cut-outs ready done, which saves a bit of work, and the model is designed around CSB suspension. Cutting down the number of options has greatly reduced the complexity of both the instructions and the kit itself, and has eliminated a number of compromises that would be necessary to allow so many options to co-exist. Because there is no rigid option the design incorporates drop-out wheelsets and removable (cosmetic) spring units. Also on test will be a very, cute little Armstrong Whitworth D10, which ran on The North Sunderland Railway. This weird-looking, tiny diesel electric had a transverse engine and central jackshaft, with open or closed cab options. Edited March 29, 2018 by High Level Kits 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 (edited) There's nice! I got the impression that you might be doing a chassis for the Hatton's Barclay is this still going ahead? Edited March 29, 2018 by PenrithBeacon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 Also on test will be a very, cute little Armstrong Whitworth D10, which ran on The North Sunderland Railway. This weird-looking, tiny diesel electric had a transverse engine and central jackshaft, with open or closed cab options. That sounds very interesting - any pictures? Steve Canada Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Level Kits Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 That sounds very interesting - any pictures? Steve Canada Not yet. I'll post some when I have something decent. There's nice! I got the impression that you might be doing a chassis for the Hatton's Barclay is this still going ahead? Yes, gathering info. Trying to figure out the differences between 14 and 16, in both model and real form?... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2018 Not yet. I'll post some when I have something decent. Yes, gathering info. Trying to figure out the differences between 14 and 16, in both model and real I took a lot of dimensions from the one at Newtongrange if that's any help - this one: 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 I took a lot of dimensions from the one at Newtongrange if that's any help - this one: 1 small 20170930_122505.jpg Even if it doesn't help Chris, it would help me! I'll PM you. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Level Kits Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 (edited) I took a lot of dimensions from the one at Newtongrange if that's any help - this one: 1 small 20170930_122505.jpg Yes, that might help, thank you. Its also equally important to figure out how Hattons have treated the two variants. Edited April 5, 2018 by High Level Kits Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2018 Yes, that might help, thank you. Its also equally important to figure out how Hattons have treated the two variants. OK, I'll photograph my notes tonight and send to you and Adam. If they're illegible, don't worry - I'll help you work them out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Level Kits Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 (edited) Many thanks to Jeremy C. I now have on loan, his 14’’ Barclay drawing so can make a start when myself and local historian Mr Porcy Main have figured out how to approach this kit for the best result. Key questions at this stage are: 1 What are the differences between the 14 and 16’’ real Barclays. There will probably not be a straightforward answer as locos were made to customers’ specifications so there are many possible variables, but there will also be things that are common to those sizes. 2 How have Hattons treated these differences on the models? If the real locos had significant dimensional differences (and at this stage we think the 16 was about 6mm longer with the possibility of bits above the footplate shuffled around as well) then is this reflected in the models, or have only cosmetic differences been modelled, like the chassis rails at the front, or the models produced in specific liveries with features which would identify them as 14 or 16’’? 3 If the two 4mm models do turn out to be similar, then are they closer to a 14 or a 16’’ I think things may clearer when the models are in circulation. Any comments or thoughts are welcome?.... Edited April 7, 2018 by High Level Kits 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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