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Nile's kitbuilding bench - Midland 1377


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On with the transfers.

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The big letters are Microscale waterslide, the rest are PC/HMRS pressfix (SR wagons).

 

After a bit of weathering this is the end result.

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I'll be fitting Dingham couplers later, when I get around to making some more up.

 

Here's a preview of the next project.

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Edited by Nile
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Diagram 16. It's a former D&S kit.

Prototype details here.

http://www.lnwrs.org.uk/Wagons/brakes/Diag016.php

The castings are from D&S patterns in new moulds. The underframe, brake gear, etc. are from a totally new etch design which incorporates the planked inner body partion and a floor that locates the compensated w-irons to ensure accurate axle alignment.

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The LNWR brake van kit consists of a nickel silver etch and white metal castings.

These are the etched parts.

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I've folded up and soldered the W irons.

 

The main body parts are white metal.

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As I don't have a temperature controlled iron I'll be gluing these parts together. Initially with super glue, I'll re-enforce the joints later with epoxy.

 

A trial fit of the body and chassis.

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Everything seems to fit ok.

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The rocking axle also works, although not really needed for OO.

 

Edited by Nile
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I would say doable. I'm no expert and am using 179C solder. Being nickel silver makes things easier than brass, and this kit doesn't need a lot of soldering anyway, most bits can be glued on.

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What Id be scared of is the layering of brake gear. Any aids for that?

The heavy wooden brake blocks used by the LNWR are supplied as a casting so do not require any assembling of small etched parts. They can be glued in place.

 

The brake parts visible on the etch are for the North London Railway versions which had clasp brakes. Although a bit fiddly, the clasp brakes are not too difficult to assemble, having been designed by a modeller who appreciates the frustration caused by items that can't be readily put together.

 

The subject of soldering etched kits has been covered on a number of occasions elsewhere on RMweb, but from personal experience I would reiterate that a good 145 deg solder such as LRM supply, together with a suitable liquid flux (12% Phosphoric acid, Carrs Green label, etc.) and a suitable iron and bit (e.g. Antex 25watt and 3mm bit) should always produce good results.

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I've done a bit more.The brake wheel was soldered to some brass rod, that was soldered to the partition.

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The door handle and its surround was glued on, as I thought it would be too fiddly to solder. The partition and chassis have been glued into the body using superglue.

 

The kit doesn't come with any floor surface, so I made these.

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Some Slaters planking for the veranda and some card for inside.

 

The big wooden brake shoes, made of white metal, where painted black and glued to the chassis floor.

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The axleboxes have been glued onto the W irons and painted black.

 

As it is it's mostly held together with glue.

Edited by Nile
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After much fiddling about the build is complete, apart from the roof.

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A few problems were encountered.

The space between the axle box and solebar isn't big enough for the spring as supplied, it has to be bent straighter to fit. Maybe filing the axle box top would help here.

The gaps in the footboards don't quite line up with the axle boxes. Some filing is needed, resulting in the gaps being larger than they should be.

Otherwise it went together ok. Paint next.

Edited by Nile
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The 'nubs' on the ends of the springs are the shoes that connect them to the solebar. I filed them down slightly as part of the spring modification process.

 

And now for some news.

Good news - another kit arrived today, a NLR brake van from London Road Models.

Bad news - after studying its instructions I now realise I've made a cock-up with the LNWR brake van.

 

I've used the wrong end piece on the verandah, making it open when it should have a closed end. My model appears to have a NLR body on a LNWR chassis. The instructions could have been clearer on this. Decent reference photos are rare, most are side on shots which doesn't help in this case.

 

Good news - disaster averted.

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I managed to remove the wrong part with the aid of glue remover. This also loosened the buffers.

After cleaning things up I fitted the correct part plus buffers.

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Looks a bit different now, doesn't it.

It's back to painting again now.

Edited by Nile
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Nile,

 

I have followed this up with the owner of LRM.

 

It sounds as though your kit included both the full veranda end for the standard LNWR brake van and the open end for the ballast brake version and NLR brake van version.

 

The instructions need updating to cover this update, although other than the open veranda end, there is little information available on the ballast brake.

 

In future two kits will be avilable, the NLR vesrion and the LNWR standard/ballast brake version.

 

Jol

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Work continues on the brake van - painting and transfers.

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While paint was drying I started the NLR brake. This has the same chassis but with different brake gear.

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Some of the slots for the brake hangers are too close to the wheels. I had to remove the tabs so they could be soldered in the correct position.

Edited by Nile
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I said the chassis was the same on both brake vans, in fact both etches have LNWR brake van etched into them and they look the same. But the NLR version has a wheelbase 6 inches shorter. This appears to be the only difference between the two etches, and explains the problem with the footboards on the LNWR van (they are correct for the NLR van). The slots for the brake hangers are based around the LNWR wheelbase on both chassis, another error that has crept in. None of these problems prevent the kit being built, they just make things interesting.

 

The brake gear on the NLR van is completely different to the LNWR van, and a lot more complicated. Lots of little bits and pieces have to be soldered together. This is the result.

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I've removed a bit off the tops of the axleboxes to allow more room for the springs.

 

I need a rest after all that soldering!

 

Edited by Nile
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The operating linkage was in the centre of the underframe and pulled the inner ends of the arms together through a series of rods and levers, thus making the brake shoes clasp the wheels. The outside links included the adjusters, presumably so that these could be set without going under the brake van.

 

The wire "posts" hanging down from the floor are to support the inner ends of the arms in the model, the central linkage on the prototype would replace those.

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What is the purpose of those struts coming through the brakes? That crossbeam wouldnt let the brakes work.

It is not not quite right, but this sort of brake has diagonal pulls. The idea is that the inner pulls are fixed and the brake rod pulls the top of the outer ones as you pull the brakes on the outer shoes act a pivot and pull the inner ones on.

 

The LSWR used this a lot on clasp brakes too.

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Thanks for explaining about the brakes, I think I can see how they work now.

Some (slow) progress.

The LNWR van is now finished, apart from weathering.

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The NLR van has also moved on, the body has been glued together and to the chassis.

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The difference between them is obvious now.

 

My cunning plan with the axleboxes seems to have worked. The springs now fit without modification.

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The rocking axle is on the right, hence the small gap below the spring.

Edited by Nile
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