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Kenton's Curve BritishOO Module


Kenton

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Apols, by bad. I meant between glazing and chassis :sorry:

thup.gif Thanks. That did the trick. What a stupid design - managed to snap the glazing at one corner. I don't think Hornby think the process through, the service sheet might as well be in Chinese - go back to screws or more sensible clips.

 

Oh well! explains why nothing happens when power is applied. I think they call that DCC Ready and waiting! No chip no plug.

 

2-bil_dcc_2.jpg

 

find chip, find glue, repair glazing, test, refit body - more work!

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Some days just do not go to plan - and one should simply give up!

 

Turned on my DCC system Prodigy Express and - zip nothing, blank screen. Checked power bug and that's OK, track connection as last left them leads plugged in. No green light! Dead.

 

Spend 20 minutes in the loft looking for the Dynamis (Wireless), change over all the cables and turn on - doh! some idiot left it switched on, replace batteries, switch on and then when confronted with the screen, a total blank mind .... I should probably download the manual and read it again ... but really have lost the will to live. Analogue is SO EASY!

 

To cap it all the paper scenery is pealing, what little has actually dried and is not t all right. Do I (Can I, Have I) put a thin layer of Hydrocal on in the vague hope of it setting before going into the car tomorrow? At least the river bed dried and is solid.

 

Back to fixing the broken glazing back in the 2-BIL and replacing the body (without testing) Someone can program it on Saturday.

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Some days just do not go to plan - and one should simply give up!

 

Turned on my DCC system Prodigy Express and - zip nothing, blank screen. Checked power bug and that's OK, track connection as last left them leads plugged in. No green light! Dead.

 

Spend 20 minutes in the loft looking for the Dynamis (Wireless), change over all the cables and turn on - doh! some idiot left it switched on, replace batteries, switch on and then when confronted with the screen, a total blank mind .... I should probably download the manual and read it again ... but really have lost the will to live. Analogue is SO EASY!

 

To cap it all the paper scenery is pealing, what little has actually dried and is not t all right. Do I (Can I, Have I) put a thin layer of Hydrocal on in the vague hope of it setting before going into the car tomorrow? At least the river bed dried and is solid.

 

Back to fixing the broken glazing back in the 2-BIL and replacing the body (without testing) Someone can program it on Saturday.

Not a good day Kenton - sorry to hear it.

 

Right now mix some Hydrocal to about a consistency somewhere about evaporated milk consistency but not too much at once.  Get it well mixed and gently brush it on - no need for a thick covering but enough to soak into the paper.  Keep stirring the mix while using it as it goes off fairly quickly and starts to get 'lumpy' - hence only mixing a smallish amount at once (you can thin it down a bit as you go but I'm not really sure what effect that has on it - it worked for me but I wouldn't risk when looking for 'quick setting').

 

You can colour it when you mix it but I found that can affect the drying time - in the wrong direction.  

 

Hopefilly it should be ok by tomorrow - I have applied some on a Friday and set off with it in the car the next day but I think 48 hrs might be better if you can find the extra time.  It should go off rock hard even if a thin coat.

 

Hope this helps

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Thanks, I'm off to cook breakfast/dinner first - then will give it a try. It has to go into the car at about same time tomorrow and has till 9am on Saturday to dry. I'll not bother to colour it and just hope for the best. Scenery was never going to be completed in time, but had hoped for a better day week and some progress.

 

I think the bubble wrap idea was not so good as a support as the plastic doesn't allow the air to flow all around and being concave the water from the glue+paper just sits in a puddle.

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2-bil_dcc_3.jpg

 

window glued back in place, the rest look pretty fragile (insufficient glue if you ask me)

 

2-bil_dcc_4.jpg

 

cheap decoder fitted, should be adequate as all I want is forward/reverse. Not interested in internal lights and as I understand it there were no directional lights on the 2-BIL.

 

See if I can figure out the Dynamis tomorrow.

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All the promise of a better day:

 

2-BIL running on DCC, reprogrammed to Addr:2090, and running well enough along Kenton's Curve powered through a module jumper lead.

 

Thus proving the jumper leads work; the phono sockets work; the DCC Track bus works; the track is powered (no shorts); the track is clean; the chip is not a dud; the new batteries have juice; the Dynamis is still working (can't remember when I last used it); it can reprogram address from 0003 to 2090; the 2-BIL runs (in both directions); I managed to put the body back on without breaking anything else; and, I can still read and make some sense of the Dynamis manual (some may say the biggest achievement). So at least I now have 1 loco for tomorrow.

 

Now back to hard-wiring that Lima 33030 ...

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