West End Workbench

[Denbridge]

Well, thank you. The couplings are an etch, produced by Bill Bedford and latterly available from Eileen's Emporium and Wizard Models. That said, I was going to post a link and now can't find them on either website. I shall have to ask both parties at Doncaster.

 

There is a cast version and i believe it may still be available, but I honestly can't now recall who now supplies it.

Thank you. 

Thanks to Adam (below) I have one source. Should really continue making my own, but laziness is rapidly becoming my mistress the older I get

[jwealleans]

I've been driven out of the workshop by the cold weather and howling Arctic gales this week, so retreated to warmer areas and tried to find jobs I could do without having to move large quantities of tools and equipment.

 

With two shows in rapid succession looming for Grantham, there has been a concentration on weathering and stock maintenance. One element of this is carriage servicing. Most of these have not been looked at since they were built, except where they've failed and one or two rakes felt a bit 'draggy' when shunting them round at the running weekend.

 

 

Each carriage in turn was tested for free running down the slope (1" in 3') and then the bogies were removed in turn, the wheels cleaned with a brass brush in the Dremel and each axle oiled. Worth doing as I found a couple which failed the slope test and one MJT bogie which had 'spread' to the extent that it no longer ran freely and effectively applied brakes to the whole rake. As that was part of Set 5, which is the heaviest of mine, it could have caused problems.

 

The two carriages are the very first ones I built for the layout back in 2012. The amount of crud some of the wheels had acquired in three to four years of shows and running weekends was quite surprising.

Edited May 4, 2018 by jwealleans

[St Enodoc]

I've been driven out of the workshop by the cold weather and howling Arctic gales this week, so retreated to warmer areas and tried to find jobs I could do without having to move large quantities of tools and equipment.

 

With two shows in rapid succession looming for Grantham, there has been a concentration on weathering and stock maintenance. One element of this is carriage servicing. Most of these have not been looked at since they were built, except where they've failed and one or two rakes felt a bit 'draggy' when shunting them round at the running weekend.

 

 

Each carriage in turn was tested for free running down the slope (1" in 3') and then the bogies were removed in turn, the wheels cleaned with a brass brush in the Dremel and each axle oiled. Worth doing as I found a couple which failed the slope test and one MJT bogie which had 'spread' to the extent that it no longer ran freely and effectively applied brakes to the whole rake. As that was part of Set 5, which is the heaviest of mine, it could have caused problems.

 

The two carriages are the very first ones I built for the layout back in 2012. The amount of crud some of the wheels had acquired in three to four years of shows and running weekends was quite surprising.

Someone else who likes Hornby-Dublo buffer stops!

[jwealleans]

Cheap, available and sprung. What's not to like?

[jwealleans]

More servicing and weathering today as the Lincoln/Newark show looms ever larger. Almost finished after detailing and fitting all the little gubbins in the bag, 2001.

 

 

I wanted this to look more 'in service', so the silver handrails have gone to body colour and the polished wheels toned down. I've also added a crew and Inspector (ModelU) - the assumption will be that it is working from Doncaster on test, or having one of young Mr. Bulleid's devices fitted or removed.

 

4482 has also been detailed, especially around the front end and weathered.

 

 

The D 303 6 wheel brake runs in the first configuration of Teak Set 5 and was used to carry laundry from the company hotels to York. You'd hope it's cleaner on the inside if it's bringing the clean washing back.

 

 

The 8 wheel brake was an Ebay rescue for which Dan Pinnock kindly provided the etched components.

 

 

Lastly some more coal wagons: more of the SC fleet and an ABS example which came in the haul from Middlesbrough last year. I painted it black to suit a set of transfers I had in stock, but they crinkled and disintegrated when I used them. Browsing the Powsides website, I came upon Dinham Fawcus and the name just appealed. None of my volumes of Keith Turton's book cover them, so please don't tell me if they went bust or merged out of existence in 1864.

Edited May 4, 2018 by jwealleans

[Jesse Sim]

Hiya Jonathan, three 51L kits arrived today, three NER wagons, a 12T plate wagon, a 10T perishable goods van and a pair of 8T single bolster wagons.

 

They say I need split spoke 12mm wagon wheels for them, where could I get them from? 

 

Jesse 

[nerron]

Hiya Jonathan, three 51L kits arrived today, three NER wagons, a 12T plate wagon, a 10T perishable goods van and a pair of 8T single bolster wagons.

 

They say I need split spoke 12mm wagon wheels for them, where could I get them from? 

 

Jesse 

Jesse, try Wizard models https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/

[Daddyman]

Jesse, try Wizard models https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/

Product number 16001 (just got some myself). 

[jwealleans]

Jesse, split spoke wheels may have been what they were built with, but they wouldn't necessarily keep them throughout their lives. When they were overhauled they'd be given the next pair of serviceable wheelsets of the right size and there are plenty of photos of wagons with odd wheels.

 

I usually use Hornby spoked wheels for almost everything, and 3 hole discs for anything fitted. Like the wagon works, I suspect, it's the first ones which come to hand.

 

Do they have brass W irons, or are you fitting the wheels into the sides and then soldering everything solid? If the former then it's easy to swap them afterwards - the latter, it can be done but gently and with a bit of nerve.

[St Enodoc]

Jesse, split spoke wheels may have been what they were built with, but they wouldn't necessarily keep them throughout their lives. When they were overhauled they'd be given the next pair of serviceable wheelsets of the right size and there are plenty of photos of wagons with odd wheels.

 

I usually use Hornby spoked wheels for almost everything, and 3 hole discs for anything fitted. Like the wagon works, I suspect, it's the first ones which come to hand.

 

Do they have brass W irons, or are you fitting the wheels into the sides and then soldering everything solid? If the former then it's easy to swap them afterwards - the latter, it can be done but gently and with a bit of nerve.

I also use Hornby wheels extensively these days. Very good quality and better value than other brands (especially if I tag them on to another order from the UK in which case they are effectively post-free).

[jwealleans]

Sad to say, but since production moved to China, Hornby's wheels have been excellent. They have suddenly become vastly more expensive recently, though.

[Jesse Sim]

I believe one of the three has brass W irons. Ganna order some flux and solder from Brunel Hobbies, (John and Ron will know who I speak off), hopefully then I can get cracking on them. Cheers Jonathan and everyone else. 

[St Enodoc]

I believe one of the three has brass W irons. Ganna order some flux and solder from Brunel Hobbies, (John and Ron will know who I speak off), hopefully then I can get cracking on them. Cheers Jonathan and everyone else. 

Wait until Forestville before you order anything. You might find what you need over the counter from one of the traders.

[Jesse Sim]

Whens Forestville?

[manna]

G'Day Folks

 

As you say, Hornby wheels have shot up in price, I have seen them as much as 28 pounds for a pack of 10, I balked at that, managed to get some (spoked) from 'Malta' of all places at a much better price, after they arrived I found out the the wagons they are for, (bogie bricks) had disc wheels, they won't go to waste.

 

manna

[St Enodoc]

Whens Forestville?

March 3-4.

[St Enodoc]

G'Day Folks

 

As you say, Hornby wheels have shot up in price, I have seen them as much as 28 pounds for a pack of 10, I balked at that, managed to get some (spoked) from 'Malta' of all places at a much better price, after they arrived I found out the the wagons they are for, (bogie bricks) had disc wheels, they won't go to waste.

 

manna

R8264 coach wheels GBP 14 for 10 axles at Hattons (other retailers are available). More than they used to be but still reasonable in my view, especially after deducting VAT.

[nerron]

R8264 coach wheels GBP 14 for 10 axles at Hattons (other retailers are available). More than they used to be but still reasonable in my view, especially after deducting VAT.

Also R8098 spoked wagon wheels GBP 13 at Hattons.

[jwealleans]

I found those wheels in Malta as well, Manna, over Christmas when everyone else was shut. Hornby wheels used to be about £6 a pack - I was warned that they were going to double in price so I stocked up but I'm getting to the end of what I had put aside now.

[Jesse Sim]

I found those wheels in Malta as well, Manna, over Christmas when everyone else was shut. Hornby wheels used to be about £6 a pack - I was warned that they were going to double in price so I stocked up but I'm getting to the end of what I had put aside now.

Would Bachmann wheels work also?

[St Enodoc]

Would Bachmann wheels work also?

Yes.

[jwealleans]

As long as they're not the type with two cast ends and a plastic central muff. Those will not work.

[jwealleans]

Preparations for Linwark went well, Linwark went well and we're already looking forward to Ally Pally. I seemed to come away from Linwark with an unusually long casualty list this time, so as well as the usual servicing of mine and other stock I have a few repairs to work through.

 

 

Some are nice and easy. This became apparent when putting the stock away after the show. No sign of the nut, but a new one has been fitted and a lump of tacky wax used to secure it. That's my usual method and this one was either missed or not enough was used.

 

 

With around 100 wagons in the shunting stock, every show brings different combinations and I had been notified that the Kadee on the cattle wagon was too high. I set No. 2 son on testing all of them against the gauge and these three were found to be out of tolerance. All of them had a long coupling mounted in a NEM pocket, a method I stopped using some time ago. They have now been replaced with draft boxes secured to the underside with a self-tapping screw.

 

 

We have no idea what happened to this - I noticed the missing axlebox during the show, it wasn't found or handed in, but I think it's had a thump of some sort as it wasn't running very freely. The Bill Bedford springing units are usually exemplary runners and I found brake blocks in contact with wheels and the safety loops rubbing on the back of others, suggesting some kind of impact. Bit of judicious bending, new spring/axlebox from MJT and it's ready to be repainted.

 

Finally a couple of more involved problems. Something happened under the scenic break at the south end which caused stock to foul the underneath of the bridge and this wagon ended up on the floor.

 

 

It's the sort of thing which happens from time to time - as it's only the second I can bring to mind in almost 5 years, I don''t think we've done badly. I've started making up a pair of MJT brass wagon W irons, refitted an LMS buffer to replace the broken one and glued the roof back on (you can't see that it's almost entirely detached.

 

Finally, a loco failure.

 

 

One of my Tom Foster A1s and the rear driver is out of quarter. It's actually become mobile on the axle, so although it can be forced back to the correct position it slips again as soon as it's under load. Oddly enough the same thing happened to one of Mr. King's A1s as well. I'm going to have a go at it with epoxy resin first, but I've ordered another wheelset from Peter's Spares in case that doesn't hold it.

Edited May 4, 2018 by jwealleans

[cctransuk]

Finally, a loco failure.



One of my Tom Foster A1s and the rear driver is out of quarter. It's actually become mobile on the axle, so although it can be forced back to the correct position it slips again as soon as it's under load. Oddly enough the same thing happened to one of Mr. King's A1s as well. I'm going to have a go at it with epoxy resin first, but I've ordered another wheelset from Peter's Spares in case that doesn't hold it.

 

 

Try requartering the wheel, then drill, say, a 0.3mm. hole, half in the axle and half in the wheel. Press a short piece of 0.3mm. wire into the hole and secure with a spot of cyanoacrylate glue.

 

This should prevent the wheel slipping out of quarter; it's simply a scale version of a keyway and key, as used on prototype shafts.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited March 4, 2018 by cctransuk

[grob1234]

Finally, a loco failure.

One of my Tom Foster A1s and the rear driver is out of quarter. It's actually become mobile on the axle, so although it can be forced back to the correct position it slips again as soon as it's under load. Oddly enough the same thing happened to one of Mr. King's A1s as well. I'm going to have a go at it with epoxy resin first, but I've ordered another wheelset from Peter's Spares in case that doesn't hold it.

 

 

Try requartering the wheel, then drill, say, a 0.3mm. hole, half in the axle and half in the wheel. Press a short piece of 0.3mm. wire into the hole and secure with a spot of cyanoacrylate glue.

 

This should prevent the wheel slipping out of quarter; it's simply a scale version of a keyway and key, as used on prototype shafts.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Yes I think this is the method DJH suggest in their instructions too, should you need a picture. Edited March 5, 2018 by grob1234