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My Laser Cutting workbench and my odyssey in model buildings.


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Well after much procrastinating I've finally bought myself a Laser Cutter.

 

I've been interested in the architectural side of model railways for a long time. The run down nature of the network in the seventies is my inspiration.

 

The last couple of weeks I have been working on a very old laser cutter that I had intended to purchase from a local business due to an upgrade they were doing. However it has been a bit temperamental and after some soul searching I've justified to myself the expense of a brand new machine.

 

I've managed to pick up a few little commissions for a couple of 7mm model railways.

 

Windows for Heyside

HeyWindows.tiff

post-1485-0-80717400-1408450228_thumb.jpg

 

 

I've also drawn an Arch that may be used as a back scene.

 

Arch.tiff

 

More soon....

Edited by BrushType4
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Sounds very interesting, in what sizes and type of material are you making them please

I'm using 1mm Rowmark for the 7mm windows. Its a laserable plasticard like material. For the brickwork I'm using 2mm MDF.

 

Arched Window 

post-1485-0-48702200-1408452151_thumb.jpg

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How does it do 'engraving' rather than cutting – do you just reduce the power of the laser?

 

Also, how thick can you cut metal?

Steve,

 

Yes, the brick courses are essentially less powerful cuts. There are two settings, power and speed. Manipulating these correctly for each substrate is the secret for clean cuts and engraving. I'm happy with cut and engraving bricks in MDF but still have some work to do with light engraving for letters etc.

 

Unfortunately I can't cut metal. Yet....

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If your not aware Trotec now do there Troply in 0.5mm thick which is there 'own brand' version of Rowmark it's handy as the 0.75 is a bit clunky, all us modellers could do with convincing them that they have a market for something a bit thinner still say .25mm

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I've can source many thicknesses of material and can cut anything up to 9mm MDF on 1200x2400 sheet. I can do bigger and thicker but PM first as I'll need to CNC it rather than laser.

Edited by BrushType4
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I've been asked if I can do a traditional railway era warehouse so having had a look on the net I found one that I like the look of and whose features are mainly coloured brick and pattern. This is ideal for the laser cutter.

 

post-1485-0-59440400-1408996095.jpg

post-1485-0-63579200-1408998088.jpg

 

This particular building lends itself quite well to be built in modular sections. The vertical joins can be hidden with drain pipe detail and the horizontal join should be near invisible. So that in mind I've drawn up the section to see how it looked.

 

post-1485-0-80820300-1408996175.jpg

 

The brickwork is quite complicated and I'm not sure I've quite got all the course detail right. I'll print this out to see how it looks and adjust it. I won't be able to laser it until next week.

 

post-1485-0-82934100-1408996219.jpg

 

For the 7mm version this will be a triple layer of 2mm MDF front face, 2mm MDF middle layer to hold window detail and lastly a third layer of 2mm MDF/ 2mm PLY for the building structure.

Edited by BrushType4
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi BrushType4

 

I've been using the laser cutter in Makespace in Cambridge for about a year now and been pleased with the results see.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/186/entry-14569-1865-great-eastern-station-chimneys-and-more-windows/#

 

That is one of the larger HPC machines. Where are you sourcing your Rowmark from? I've had a real trouble getting a thin plastic and I wasn't too impressed by the .7mm acrylic/perspex mix that HPC sold as a Rowmark alternative.

 

thanks

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

For version two I had a go a finger joint instead of a butt joint. I will try a mitre but I'm quite happy with this.

 

post-1485-0-47977000-1410209912_thumb.jpgpost-1485-0-36926800-1410209927_thumb.jpg

 

The camera is harsh as the shadow one can see on the joint is not visible normally.

 

I will glue together and paint up later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a small point, but, as you are in control of the artwork you could achieve what many kit / scratch builders miss. Tilers and roofers do not like to make the end of a row using anything smaller than a half tile. To achieve this the slate makers produced slates that were roughly 1 1/2 times the width of the regular slate. This allowed the roofer to trim this larger slate, to eliminate the joint that would run close to the eaves line. As you have prepared bespoke patterns to suit each building you can easily get these detail correct, as you are not just cutting the correct size out of a sheet of standard tiles or slates, which always creates the wrong, half-tile effect.

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