Pete Harvey Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Nice looking 48th scale Hurricane. A4 looks better in bare metal. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Western Master Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Just bought issues 1-3 from local newsagent, new to this but would you recommend removing paint from boiler/valences/front? I was thinking maybe just paint it in wartime black to save on paint/transfers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted September 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 21, 2014 Nice looking 48th scale Hurricane. Thanks. It's 1/24 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted September 21, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 21, 2014 Just bought issues 1-3 from local newsagent, new to this but would you recommend removing paint from boiler/valences/front? I was thinking maybe just paint it in wartime black to save on paint/transfers If the paint on yours is as thick as mine definitely strip it. Mine even had the beginnings of a run on the boiler. Personally I'd avoid black. To make a black loco look 'right' you're supposed to use about seven different shades. A pristine museum finish is easy to do from a rattle can and suits this model. If you're building it as Mallard then transfers are included anyway. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 21, 2014 Hi Western Master. Not sure what your new to.... But if you are new to modelling locomotives I would keep things easy and simple if it's your first. No need to strip off the paint, just be cautious about chipping it off as you progress. I,m only stripping it off because I prefer to apply my own finish..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Western Master Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Just to clarify, first venture into loco building and indeed O gauge.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 21, 2014 An advantage with this project is you will get a good set of illustrated instructions....not always supplied with some O guage loco kits. You will also get an abundance of advice on this web site. Decide how you want her to look and perform and stick to your chosen plan.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilEakins Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Sorry - just caught up with some of the earlier stuff on this thread! If you don't want the binders/special editions etc, just ring the subscription line and tell them! They won't be sent to you. Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2015 Right. Finally got round to doing some more... These are the cab window frames. They're laminated with a sliding pane. In the Flying Scotsman partwork they were just a flat plate you stuck the glazing to. Frames & handrails fitted to the cab. There are also some hinged cinder guards which don't show up much in the photo, which is a shame as they were really fiddly to fit. Boiler handrails and it's on to super glue rather than trying to solder to a massive lump of Zamak. Not confident with my drilling holes square skills I made the holes a little oversize so that when pressed against the boiler the handrail knobs aligned themselves. Today's handiwork. There's a bit of filler in some of the more gappy joints, especially on the valences. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) 'Tis looking the part. Someone on another site has said to leave all handrails off before painting. Did you have to drill the cab rear top handrail knob position yourself? My cab has none, and since mine will (probably) become 60014 Silver Link, circa 1961, it will need that handrail shorter...and the ones on the streamlined casing straighter at the cab end. I joined late, so all I have is the cab.........but today I got some paint stripper to remove the nasty lacquer. Edited January 3, 2015 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2015 Yes I had to drill the missing handrail holes myself... Here's the chassis. Unlike Flying Scotsman this is very thin brass. The detail comes on another layer laminated on. It seems to have turned out square. The boiler got a couple more bits stuck to it too. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 sigh. I get to show off the macro feature on my camera by showing you a 0.6mm drill bit snapped off in one of the access panels. Don't see me getting that out so hopefully I can somehow solder the handle over the top of the hole it was supposed to go in... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Hello 30801, the best way to get that out that I can think of, is to use a rotary burr to grind/mill out the metal behind the broken drill bit. When you get to the drill you should then be able to push it out. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Did the small brass (??) parts that join the boiler cladding at the top come with the kit? Or have you used extras? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 the best way to get that out that I can think of, is to use a rotary burr to grind/mill out the metal behind the broken drill bit. When you get to the drill you should then be able to push it out.Thanks. I might give that a go. There are enough casting markings on the inside of the boiler and the hole I successfully drilled on the other side, so I can figure out where the right place is. Wouldn't want to grind right through in the wrong place Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 Did the small brass (??) parts that join the boiler cladding at the top come with the kit? Or have you used extras?All in the kit It'll be interesting to see exactly what level of detail this kit will have. I originally assumed it would be quite basic like Flying Scotsman. Some of the pictures in Hachette's promotional material certainly give that impression. However the chassis looks like the one from the DJH Piercy kit as does the cab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Great work I will be following this as I have also been gathering the parts to do this and learn. I started a thread off on Britmodeller and not started yet so it's good to watch what your doing for when I start. Looks like a great model from what I've seen so far. I also like the Hurricane you have on the go. Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 There's a decent Facebook page too...if you can cope with F/B. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davep101 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Looking good, i too have subscribed to build a mallard, i was quite i pressed with the A3 ( buying 75%of the kit of a carboot for 2.50 helped) so i thought id have a dabble with mallard from the word go, ive not started it yet, just collecting some issues up, and getting tips, i do like how youve stripped the thick paint off the boiler, i reckon that will be somewhere to start on mine. Keep it up. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Wilco paint stripper, about £6.50 per 500ml. Removes bodywork paint in under half an hour, lacquer from brass in about 2 hours. I stood my model bits in a polythene sandwich box, poured in a little paint stripper and worked it all over the model with a medium paint brush, one with quite stiff bristles that came originally with a car wheel-cleaning kit. The stuff is very thick and will stay where it's put. Then you either scrape it off with the brush for re-use, or just wash it off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Why are the Brass parts lacquered is this normal for a kit ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted February 3, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2015 Why are the Brass parts lacquered is this normal for a kit ?No it's not normal. The magazine instructions assume you will stick it together with super glue. The lacquer helps there. The lacquer does not help if you plan on soldering it together.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2015 So that they can be assembled with superglue which can be difficult with just bare brass. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 As above. If you are going to use superglue, use it sparingly, and buy some of this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsuperglue+debonder&_nkw=superglue+debonder&_sacat=0in case of runs, finger marks etc. Apply and rub off excess glue with a cotton bud. Or try Acetone, it does work. Obviously, if using glue, don't flood the joint with the above or you'll just unglue it all.......... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Well thanks for the tips. I would prefer solder as I see this being more permanent with superglue not getting on well with oil which it's likely to come in contact with I think solder is the only way. I have never soldered a kit however. I will practice first making a few comet chassis kits and I quite fancy having a crack at this little gem from conniseur models. Looks ideal to get started. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Starter%20Loco.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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