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Hachette Mallard


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  • RMweb Gold

Just bought issues 1-3 from local newsagent, new to this but would you recommend removing paint from boiler/valences/front? I was thinking maybe just paint it in wartime black to save on paint/transfers

If the paint on yours is as thick as mine definitely strip it. Mine even had the beginnings of a run on the boiler.

 

Personally I'd avoid black. To make a black loco look 'right' you're supposed to use about seven different shades. A pristine museum finish is easy to do from a rattle can and suits this model. If you're building it as Mallard then transfers are included anyway.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Western Master.

Not sure what your new to.... But if you are new to modelling locomotives I would keep things easy and simple if it's your first. No need to strip off the paint, just be cautious about chipping it off as you progress. I,m only stripping it off because I prefer to apply my own finish.....

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  • RMweb Gold

An advantage with this project is you will get a good set of illustrated instructions....not always supplied with some O guage loco kits. You will also get an abundance of advice on this web site. Decide how you want her to look and perform and stick to your chosen plan....

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  • 3 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

Right. Finally got round to doing some more...

These are the cab window frames. They're laminated with a sliding pane. In the Flying Scotsman partwork they were just a flat plate you stuck the glazing to.

IMG_20150102_160619.jpg

 

IMG_20150102_164356.jpg

 

Frames & handrails fitted to the cab. There are also some hinged cinder guards which don't show up much in the photo, which is a shame as they were really fiddly to fit.

P1090318.JPG

 

Boiler handrails and it's on to super glue rather than trying to solder to a massive lump of Zamak. Not confident with my drilling holes square skills I made the holes a little oversize so that when pressed against the boiler the handrail knobs aligned themselves.

P1090319.JPG

 

Today's handiwork. There's a bit of filler in some of the more gappy joints, especially on the valences.

P1090320.JPG

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'Tis looking the part.

 

Someone on another site has said to leave all handrails off before painting. Did you have to drill the cab rear top handrail knob position yourself? My cab has none, and since mine will (probably) become 60014 Silver Link, circa 1961, it will need that handrail shorter...and the ones on the streamlined casing straighter at the cab end.

 

I joined late, so all I have is the cab.........but today I got some paint stripper to remove the nasty lacquer.

Edited by JeffP
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  • RMweb Gold

Yes I had to drill the missing handrail holes myself...

 

Here's the chassis. Unlike Flying Scotsman this is very thin brass.

P1090321.JPG

 

The detail comes on another layer laminated on. It seems to have turned out square.

P1090322.JPG

 

The boiler got a couple more bits stuck to it too.

P1090324.JPG

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  • RMweb Gold

sigh.

 

I get to show off the macro feature on my camera by showing you a 0.6mm drill bit snapped off in one of the access panels.

Don't see me getting that out so hopefully I can somehow solder the handle over the top of the hole it was supposed to go in...

 

P1090325.JPG

 

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Hello 30801,

 

the best way to get that out that I can think of, is to use a rotary burr to grind/mill out the metal behind the broken drill bit. When you get to the drill you should then be able to push it out.

 

OzzyO. 

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  • RMweb Gold

the best way to get that out that I can think of, is to use a rotary burr to grind/mill out the metal behind the broken drill bit. When you get to the drill you should then be able to push it out.

Thanks. I might give that a go. There are enough casting markings on the inside of the boiler and the hole I successfully drilled on the other side, so I can figure out where the right place is. Wouldn't want to grind right through in the wrong place :)
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  • RMweb Gold

Did the small brass (??) parts that join the boiler cladding at the top come with the kit? Or have you used extras?

All in the kit :)

It'll be interesting to see exactly what level of detail this kit will have. I originally assumed it would be quite basic like Flying Scotsman. Some of the pictures in Hachette's promotional material certainly give that impression. However the chassis looks like the one from the DJH Piercy kit as does the cab.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great work I will be following this as I have also been gathering the parts to do this and learn. I started a thread off on Britmodeller and not started yet so it's good to watch what your doing for when I start.

 

Looks like a great model from what I've seen so far.

 

I also like the Hurricane you have on the go.

 

Cheers Rob :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looking good, i too have subscribed to build a mallard, i was quite i pressed with the A3 ( buying 75%of the kit of a carboot for 2.50 helped) so i thought id have a dabble with mallard from the word go, ive not started it yet, just collecting some issues up, and getting tips, i do like how youve stripped the thick paint off the boiler, i reckon that will be somewhere to start on mine.

 

Keep it up.

 

Dave

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Wilco paint stripper, about £6.50 per 500ml.

 

Removes bodywork paint in under half an hour, lacquer from brass in about 2 hours.

 

I stood my model bits in a polythene sandwich box, poured in a little paint stripper and worked it all over the model with a medium paint brush, one with quite stiff bristles that came originally with a car wheel-cleaning kit.

 

The stuff is very thick and will stay where it's put.

 

Then you either scrape it off with the brush for re-use, or just wash it off.

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  • RMweb Gold

Why are the Brass parts lacquered is this normal for a kit ?

No it's not normal. The magazine instructions assume you will stick it together with super glue. The lacquer helps there.

The lacquer does not help if you plan on soldering it together....

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As above.

If you are going to use superglue, use it sparingly, and buy some of this:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsuperglue+debonder&_nkw=superglue+debonder&_sacat=0in case of runs, finger marks etc. Apply and rub off excess glue with a cotton bud.

 

Or try Acetone, it does work.

 

Obviously, if using glue, don't flood the joint with the above or you'll just unglue it all..........

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Well thanks for the tips. I would prefer solder as I see this being more permanent with superglue not getting on well with oil which it's likely to come in contact with I think solder is the only way.

 

I have never soldered a kit however. I will practice first making a few comet chassis kits and I quite fancy having a crack at this little gem from conniseur models. Looks ideal to get started.

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Starter%20Loco.html

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