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Addition 10th August 2017, thread header.

 

list of what to expect

 

"Rebecca", kitson 0-4-0 based on "polly" of the liverpool overhead and sister engine "Cordite" of the Corrigham light railway from 1884, as well as others

 

"J.Aspdin" 0-6-0 originally based on the Hunslets of the Pardarn 4ft gauge railway but a measurement mistake meant i couldnt fit the cylinders

 

"Thunderchild", based on Kerr Stuart No 692 of 1901 "Kynite" on the Corringham,

 

"Halfmoon" Hibberd Planet diesel

 

"Skyrack" based on a 1901 petrol built in Bradford by John Knowles, info from the Hudswell Clarke diesel book by the late Ron Redman

 

"Hestia" F class Manning from about 1870

 

"Nautilus" Peckett M5 class

 

"Highwind" beyer peacock, based on "Gardener" of 1856

 

"Gilgamesh", based on 2-4-0's converted from a mainline to tank by Isaac Boulton

 

"Bayard" Gaston Moyse 5TA petrol 'Bete a Corne'

 

ficticous traction engine type loco

 

"Padfoot" Hunslet diesel DY1

 

Boulton's Welbeck

 

Wagon liveries are all hand painted including the R.Carder which i did for Jamie92208 to go on Lancaster Green Ayre

 

original post 15th October 2014

----------------------------

ive been pondering doing this, buying an old OO loco with large wheels such as a pacific like what you see all the time on second hand stall at shows like this

(image removed)

 

and taking the wheels and the motion into making a small o gauge loco, but ive never got any further than not being able to come up with a a way of securely fixing the wheels to new axles and them sitting straight on the axles. I dont currently have a suitable loco but have previously experimented (and failed) with wheels left over from locos come and gone long ago.

 

Here is a basic MS Paint representation of the idea using the loco at the bottom of the top image.

(image removed)

 

This is all currently just speculative and theoretical, im just gathering the knowledge, know how, parts and materials to have another (but better) go at it some day. I will in time get myself such a OO loco and some brass sheet for the new chassis, the body will be the easiest thing to make and will be out of plasticard.

 

So any advice on the wheel to axle problem would be very grateful

 

Regards, Sam.

Edited by sir douglas
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Cut out every second spoke and you've got nice wheels for O gauge. You can purchase either steel or brass rods in the appropriate diameter to make the axles. The original Hornby axles are probably stepped, so you may have to take a drill to the plastic wheel centres to make a the axles fit. 6'6" driving wheels in 4mm scale work out at about 3'8" in 7mm.

 

I reckon that your best course of action is to put in longer axles the right diameter for the gears and bearings and then if necessary to drill out the wheel centres to press-fit onto the axles. A good way to make wheel sets press-fit is to put a drop of superglue through the hole. It will form a thin coat which will bring the hole to the right diameter. I did something similar with a Bachmann Streetcar power bogie by fitting slaters axles.

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I have an O gauge rail bus, the drive is supplied by an XO4 motor in a cut about Triang Jinty chassis. The original gears are mounted on a O gauge wagon wheel set with brass tube spacers between chassis block and wheels.. As it only has to pull itself no problems of traction exist with a lightweight body.

Terry

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Some time ago I had one of Jim Harris' Little Jem (or Gem) kits of a Manning Wardle K class as I recall. This used a 00 0-6-0 chassis as the basis for building the kit, so it has been done before. I sold mine on, untouched.

 

Good luck!

 

Dave

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My first O gauge loco used a Lego motor block with the plastic case removed. It had a Buhler motor and I used Hornby coach wheels literally pushed into the same plug used for the lego wheels. I made a sentinel shunter and it ran well for several years albeit slowly. I tapped screws into the cast spilt block for phosphor bronze pickups.

The only issue is the length of unsupported axle once you extend them using a OO chassis so you'll have to be a bit careful with weight and handling. Making even a plastic dummy frame outer chassis would help in supporting them nearer the wheels.

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Some time ago I had one of Jim Harris' Little Jem (or Gem) kits of a Manning Wardle K class as I recall. This used a 00 0-6-0 chassis as the basis for building the kit, so it has been done before. I sold mine on, untouched.

 

Good luck!

 

Dave

 

If my calculations are right, this would have resulted in 2'7-1/2" wheels in 7mm scale if you were re-using the 4mm scale wheels with every other spoke cut out.

 

Interestingly, if you keep only the two rear axles, you have a wheelbase just shy of 5'0" which may be suitable for tiny 0-4-0 locomotive jobs.

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If my calculations are right, this would have resulted in 2'7-1/2" wheels in 7mm scale if you were re-using the 4mm scale wheels with every other spoke cut out.

 

Interestingly, if you keep only the two rear axles, you have a wheelbase just shy of 5'0" which may be suitable for tiny 0-4-0 locomotive jobs.

It wasn't quite as simple as this. Slater's MW wheels (which come with 1/8" axles) were to be used with the gear pinion transferred. A specific - but easily found chassis was to be used (I cannot now recall which). A 4mm Jinty chassis for example with 8' + 8'6" wheelbase scales to about 4'7" + 4'10" in 7mm. Assuming that Triang or Hornby had got close to the original dimensions, a short wheelbase 0-6-0 with 3'1" wheels would be entirely feasible with a similar chassis.

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  • 2 weeks later...

a good day at the Leeds show and now have some 1mm brass sheet, brass L section, a packet of 8MBa nuts & bolts and Slaters midland sprung buffers. I can easily make the hooks & chain myself. For now i cant do anything with the stuff until i get the donor loco, ive searched Ebay and found a few suitable and cheap enough, but i'll wait until after Wakefield show because theres a good chance of getting a good bargain from the club stand.

 

On the donor loco, it doesnt matter the condition of the body or if it runs or not because im only interested in the wheels, cylinders and motion

 

Regards, Sam.

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My first O gauge loco used a Lego motor block with the plastic case removed. It had a Buhler motor and I used Hornby coach wheels literally pushed into the same plug used for the lego wheels. I made a sentinel shunter and it ran well for several years albeit slowly. I tapped screws into the cast spilt block for phosphor bronze pickups.

The only issue is the length of unsupported axle once you extend them using a OO chassis so you'll have to be a bit careful with weight and handling. Making even a plastic dummy frame outer chassis would help in supporting them nearer the wheels.

Was that in a magazine? Seem to remember reading something similar
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hi,

 

just been doing some measurement conversions on suitable donor locos to get an idea of what i could be getting. The table below shows the cylinder diameter, wheel diameter and wheel base of suitable locos. thecolumns are grouped in threes; true measurement in feet & inches, the scale measurement in MM in 4mm scale and what that measurement represents in 7mm scale. i couldnt find the wheel base for the princess royal so it is blank

 

(image removed)

 

 

regards, Sam,

Edited by sir douglas
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  • 2 weeks later...

14930165344_8c40c660f0_h.jpg

 

Here's some butchered Hornby drivers on a little 0-4-2t that I've been tinkering with for some time

 

I've been tinkering with this same kit, although my plan was to produce an inside-cylinder 2-4-0. After discovering the Hornby 8F valve gear, I might adapt this to do an outside-cylinder version down the track.

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hi,

 

just been doing some measurement conversions on suitable donor locos to get an idea of what i could be getting. The table below shows the cylinder diameter, wheel diameter and wheel base of suitable locos. thecolumns are grouped in threes; true measurement in feet & inches, the scale measurement in MM in 4mm scale and what that measurement represents in 7mm scale. i couldnt find the wheel base for the princess royal so it is blank

attachicon.gifconversion.jpg

 

regards, Sam,

Please check that the model that you use is to these dimensions, many models especially older ones, used generic chassis and the wheels / wheel spacing may not be correct for the Loco it's rpretending to be

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For an 0-6-0 build in this manner there are pros and cons to making either a saddle or a side tank type. Potentially you will be able to hide the motor better on a side-tank type because you cannot see the daylight under the boiler. However, a saddle-tank can provide a taller body to also hide the motor. I think you will have to do a few body mock-ups in card to see how well it will work.

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Hi, Martin, ive got the motor on the rear axle so i can hide it in the firebox and is at an angle so it is low enough to fit in without a saddle, i may even keep the card mock ups and varnish them, Jim Read style, i may also do some mock ups on my 3d CAD. I haven't yet decided on what the actual conversion project loco will look like

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I recieved the 3 wagons yesterday, so as said, some photos and a quick review.

 

1203759589_W01W02W03skytrex(1).JPG.d818f8ca35bfd4596d7fe1ba5f7d1732.JPG

At a first glance it looks quite good, sprung buffers & hook, a removable plastic coal load and a smart Private owner livery but when you remove the load, its not so good.

 

379526612_W01W02W03skytrex(3).JPG.b23661bc536764a326900d2b7110da7c.JPG

 

the four sides of the wagon are not fixed together in any way but are screwed down to the wagon floor leaving hair line gaps in the corners. The flanges are a little larger than they should be and since they are made of plastic they are most likely to get damaged over time, the wagons are missing the door stop irons on the chassis even though they heve the little metal plates on the doors which make contact with the irons. At first i found it quite odd that they don't have end doors but looking through my bill hudson PO wagon book reveals that it was common. There is also no cental rodding between either side of the brake gear.

 

777367244_W01W02W03skytrex(2).JPG.6e6e4143c03a8fdc0989033122fc38a2.JPG

 

All things considered i still think the bargain was worth it, i can easily sort the body by taking the sides off, cutting off the screw lugs, filling in the slots and screw holes and glueing the sides back togeter and painting over it. i can easily make the irons for the doors.

 

Update on the other loco, The name for which has now been decided. "J.Aspdin" Joseph Aspdin (1778-1855) from leeds invented & patented Portland Cement and set up the first cement works in Kirkgate, wakefield, see his wikipedia page

 

I found some problems relating to the motor and its mounting. Firstly a part of the motor inside had shattered (I could hear it rattling around when i handled the chassis) and secondley a part of the gear mounting was rubbing with the worm cog preventing it from turning smoothly, these have now been resolved as the motor has been replaced and the offending part f the mounting filed back. The motor was then wired up to a controller and it all runs very smoothly, all thats left now is the pick ups.

 

regards, sam.

Edited by sir douglas
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