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new gearbox together and running but the motor is playing up, at least its not smoking like the last time but it runs for a few seconds then slows down and stops, turn the controller off for a few seconds and try again, runs slowly then stops, so that has been replaced as well, so this loco has been through 2 chassis', 2 gearboxes and 3 motors. just need to change over the motor plug and fit the retaining strap

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Edited by sir douglas
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Retaining strap fitted, plug swapped over onto the new motor and some of the inside the body had be taken away as the motor is now  a few mm rearwards. while on the workbench more lining was done on the chassis that was intended to have been done back when i lined the body

 

Paint on the wheels had been chipped while working on the gearbox so a new coat was needed and did the lining while the paint was out, the chance was also took to do the black and cream lining around the bufferbeam

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Edited by sir douglas
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  • 2 weeks later...

still not happy with the running quality of J Aspdin as it was just a replacement of the same make of motor, ebay purchases have been made for some better motors but will take about a month to come over from china, 1 of them for J Aspdin and if it fits another one could replace the noisy motor in Hestia and a third motor for future use, i might replace Hestia's motor with the one bought at Liverpool show

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  • 2 weeks later...

got 3 motors on ebay through the "Replacing mashima motors" thread that Paul suggested to me

 

x1- Mabuchi SF-266SA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282390341666

x2- Escap 16N28 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282822079237

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Im using the Mabuchi to replace on J Aspdin but it doesnt have fixing screw holes on the end so my idea was to make a housing that soldered to the gearbox and an end plate slotted on and is either held on by screws/ nuts & bolts or what actually went with is the end of the housing slots into the end plate and is bent to retain it

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end plate made form a scrapped switch mounting on my layout

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fitted and wired in

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running in

Edited by sir douglas
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  • 2 weeks later...

a long time ago i bought one of Jamie's north british carriage etches and also got the wheels and Connoiseur compensation to go with it, i initially soldered together the body and chassis shells but had diffulty going any further with my 25W iron. then about 2 weeks ago i found a 40W in the back of a box so my enthusiasm to get on with the carraige has come back, im starting with the compensation

 

the 2 outer units done and starting the middle unit

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Yesterday in Doncaster i had a good day on the bring & buy, met some rmwebbers, David Smith and Fastdax, filled my pocket and emptied my wallet, on the B&B was a mashima motor for £10 which i snapped up, buffers from Slater for the NER 20 ton wagon, and from the stand across from us which i cant recall the name i got the buffers, wheel, figure and axleboxes

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Edited by sir douglas
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last friday, i got the centre unit made up and is now a running chassis

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The saga of the dodgy trailing wheel on Thunderchild continues, previous attempts at springing it didnt work so just added lead weight to it. Just adding spring down onto the wheel frame did indeed push the wheels down onto the track and push up the body sufficiently but if the wheels jumped on a curve or a point, the spring would pull back to centre and derail it, so the trick this time is to spring it but keep the horizontal swing unaffected

 

The first version is top left, the arms swing is fixed horizontal with no play and the vertical play and springing is in the axle box. Top right was the second idea, just like the current set up but with the spring added to the middle of the arm. Bottom right was the next, moving the springing inbetween the arm and the bearing frame. Finally bottom left, turning the frame upside down because i was i thought there wouldnt be enough room between the top of the bolt heads and the underside of the footplate

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Making the frame, thought it would be better to solder in the bearings before bending the frame so i could line them up with the centre line markings but they got bit squashed in the process and had to be replaced, the spring mounting plate also soldered on

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Trail fitting. a copper or phospher spring (not sure which) cut in half and stretched out a little bit provides the 2 springs which sit on brass 10BA bolts, the arm will be bent to shape and then cut to length after drilling the pivot hole as i wasnt sure how long to cut it with the bends involved

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cut and fitted, my worries of space were right so the frame was flipped upside down, now its just the bends in the arm and spring tension just needed some adjustment as i wanted the wheel to sit in the level position under while under some pressure of the springs, the idea is that if the loco rocks over un even track and the trailing wheel drops away then it will still be under the spring and be held down.... hopefully

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Sam, with pony trucks I just add plenty of weight and then leave them to their own devices. The loco is ballasted well, and I make sure the centre of gravity is acting over the drivers. The pony truck is made out of a strip of .018” brass, with a 6BA nut at the back on top. A 6BA screw passes up through a frame stretcher, and this forms the pivot for the truck, and it is a sloppy fit in the stretcher, so the truck can rock fore and aft, and tilt side to side. The axle runs in a brass tube soldered under the strip. The strip is then sandwiched, on top with a length of 20mm x 5mm steel strip (from B&Q) for the weight, and part way underneath with a bit of glass fibre copper clad. The sandwich is held together with two 8BA nuts and bolts. The copper clad can take wires back to the motor with some scraperpickups using phosphor bronze strip (Slaters) as I reckon small tankies need the pickups. There’s a square bracket comes down from the body at the front to limit sideways swing, I suppose a proper craftsman would try some sprung side control, I’ve left it. Hope you can pick this out on the photo, the main pieces have been painted black.post-26540-0-07224800-1528724512.jpeg

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thanks for the info, i think the next issue is that its got too much twist, as in the wheel set can turn vertically on the spring so one wheel goes up and the other goes down, this is the wheels favourite thing to do so the next job is to restrain the twist

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a set of buffers fitted and painted to the remaining G&SWR 10 ton as mentioned back in January about replacing the whitemetal buffers for sprung

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=3008927

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the last of the 3 wagon chassis' from Ruston have now been used, im thinking of building a small basic carriage like the ones at Devonport docks, the Rymney or Stockton & Darlington 179

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=2510912

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devonport

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rymney

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S&D 179

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the stock crate is now full so ive started on a 3rd tray

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91456-sirdouglas-o-gauge/?p=2359094

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Edited by sir douglas
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Nice.  Brake blocks look a long way from the wheels though. However, would a coach like this actually have brakes?  The one restored on the Isle of Wight shown on the telly on Wednesday hasn't.

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what ive come up with is a 20ft 4 comp 3rd

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cutting and marking the sides

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screwing the floor to the chassis

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with the sole bars fixed on, the headstocks (bufferbeams) could be removed, new styrene headstocks and solebar extensions will be glued on

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Yesterday i went to Middleton to see Ian, the exhibition manager and have chat in person, and im in the book for next year

 

just watched my recording of the isle of wight episode of the restoration program, very nice and it looks even better with the correct chassis under it

 

back to mine, got the sides, ends and floor glued together and then realised i forgot to cut the rest of the windows, these were done on one side for now and the timber work for that side has been started

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Edited by sir douglas
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timber work for one side and the ends on, theyre scale 2.5 inch strips, i cut some strips off a sheet and cut the longest lenghts first and then the next longestlike the top and bottom and then the uprights, any short remains of the lengths can be cut down to go into the shortest pieces like the horizontals on the doors or at the ends. This minimises wastage

 

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I was already planning on having one of the windows open like i did on a previous carriage but then also wanted a figure sticking their head out of the window enjoying the ride, the figure came with seperate arms and seperate below the waist, the right arms has been cut at the elbow and put into a bent position, im not using the left arm or legs as they wont be seen, also shown are the internal partitions cut out

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you probably cant quite see it but the door second fromt left has had the window frame cut out apart from the bottom which is now the top of the dropped whindow

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figure test fit after assembly

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Edited by sir douglas
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  • 5 weeks later...

ive been working on my layout and planning a new layout, but some rolling stock work has still been going on in some way

 

a friend was looking for someone to put together a chassis for him as he is scratch building an american diesel switcher for his logging layout, he gave me a bag containing chassis frames already cut and screws together onto brass stretchers, wheelsets, bearings, motor and gears, all i had to do was put it together by making the motor mounting plates and pickups

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  • 2 weeks later...

the chassis has been tinkered with, run in a bit and handed over to him

 

a little bit more work on the carriage, the windows on the other side have been cut out and the framework is being built up on that side. The partitions have been filed to fit and glued in

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Edited by sir douglas
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Some may know the way that Peter Smith (Kirtleypete) does the livery on his stock by doing it on the computer, printing it out and sticking it on instead of painting it all in the traditional manner, ive known since i first saw Saltdean and asked him about his wagons and his recent articles in the guild gazette are very inspirational, a week or 2 back i was thinking about doing somewhat the same but why not just print out the lining and stick it on. ive not yet used lining transfers and im not confident in trying it out and as can be seen in this thread, my own lining is by no means perfect.

 

artwork for the Knowles "Skyrack" done on Paint, the tan background is just to get the look right while i was working on it

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i did  haulage test on my locos the other day , to begin with i was wondering what the power of the Hunslet is since fitting a new motor and gearbox, it used to be able to pull 8 wagons which is 1000G or 1Kg it can now comfortably pull 10 wagons which is 1250G and i think with room for more, the Kitson, Knowles and Manning Wardle can only just do the 10 and only just being able to keep traction and momentum starting off at low speed but what surprised me is that the Kerr Stuart did well with the 10, i thought it would have struggled

 

10 vehicles were picked out at random, 9 wagons plus brake and each loco was tried in turn running from the brake being against the buffer block through the station to the loco being at the other end of the fiddle yard, they did okay pulling but the weaker locos struggled pushing through the short reverse curve at the end of the platform, about under the 2nd (falkor) to 4th (van) wagons in the photo

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Edited by sir douglas
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Considering the size of the locos, I’d say what they can handle is perfectly adequate. If you put them on your club oval, it would look a good sized train, and running them on your own line, it’s all you want. Well done.

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