Osgood Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 Hello Brian. Yes these will be 3D printed. I've commissioned ModelU to produce these for me. Would you consider allowing ModelU to make these available to other budding shed-builders? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47606odin Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) is the stack not a bit on the tall side? elf and safety and all that. a stack that tall would be a bit unstable, and you wouldn't want the landing on your feet whenever i saw them stacked against a wall where i worked, you'd have a row of blocks the same way, then the next level would all lay the other, and we only laid them about 5 high from memory Edited October 11, 2016 by 47606odin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve4rosegrove Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 is the stack not a bit on the tall side? elf and safety and all that. a stack that tall would be a bit unstable, and you wouldn't want the landing on your feet whenever i saw them stacked against a wall where i worked, you'd have a row of blocks the same way, then the next level would all lay the other, and we only laid them about 5 high from memory Does this help? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Would you consider allowing ModelU to make these available to other budding shed-builders? Yes of course. I'm not buying the copyright to the design, although I am getting ModelU to alter the first draft of the design. I'll post an image when I have it. I'll suggest to Alan from ModelU to have them for sale in his online store Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 is the stack not a bit on the tall side? elf and safety and all that. a stack that tall would be a bit unstable, and you wouldn't want the landing on your feet whenever i saw them stacked against a wall where i worked, you'd have a row of blocks the same way, then the next level would all lay the other, and we only laid them about 5 high from memory Yes that's right, the way they need to be stacked has to be changed. I've asked ModelU to alter this. I also have a photo on the inside wall of Rose Grove shed which shows a long row of stacked brake blocks, around 10-13 high. Let's not forget that OH&S wasn't as strict back then. ash plant; road entrance; lighthouse; board crossing; toilet LMS Sheds V3 5 – Version 2.jpg Does this help? Thank you Steve. Yes that does help, however I'm also placing them inside the shed (on the other side of the same wall) as per a photo I have. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 I'm starting to look into extra details to be added across the layout. Today I have painted eight 44 galon drums and when they are dry they will be rusted up and weathered. The intention with them is to have them stacked/thrown away between the bridge wall and the side of the boothy - just to fill the space and show general clutter of a steam shed in the 1960s where items we just thrown around anywhere, seemingly. Other details being added are a handful of rail chairs, to show ones that have been replaced, and have not been removed from site. A test 'plant' of these items looked great and so painting has commenced. When they are ready, I will show them off in all their glory. I'm also going to put lighting into the boothy too, I'm just debating if I go the extra mile and add interior detail to the building or not... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Newtz I'd suggest fitting the lighting as you would with interior detail, then having a look. It might be utterly obvious that it's an empty shell, or completely invisible. If the latter, well, you can decorate anyway, but I guess it slips down the priority list somewhat! If it's a resin building, you might want to line the inside of the roof with aluminium cooking foil to stop the "ghostly glowing building" effect! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 Newtz I'd suggest fitting the lighting as you would with interior detail, then having a look. It might be utterly obvious that it's an empty shell, or completely invisible. If the latter, well, you can decorate anyway, but I guess it slips down the priority list somewhat! If it's a resin building, you might want to line the inside of the roof with aluminium cooking foil to stop the "ghostly glowing building" effect! Best Simon Good idea Simon, thank you for the tips and suggestions Newtz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 As I mentioned before, I have added some more details around the layout, mainly around the boothy and the bridge. Here are a few photos of what has been added. These 44 gallon drums will be scattered between the bridge wall and the side of the boothy in a random, piled up way after they have been weathered Weeds and grass tufts added around the boothy, the tracks and bridge walls Rail chairs scattered here and there, as per what I've seen in archival photos. These will eventually be weathered The roof finally gets glued to the walls of the boothy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) I've painted and weathered the 44 gallon drums and they look brilliant. Now it's time to place them around the boothy. And I've placed one in the corner of the two parts of the boothy. Looks good to me Edited October 13, 2016 by Newtz1981 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Newtz, Those discarded rail chairs need to have the keys removed, hope you do not mind me pointing this out as I'm not your usual rivet counter. Martyn. Edited October 13, 2016 by 3 link Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Hadn't spotted that, but now you come to mention it, I'll be able to make sure nobody sees me make such a rookie error. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Newtz, Those discarded rail chairs need to have the keys removed, hope you do not mind me pointing this out as I'm not your usual rivet counter. Martyn. Hello Martyn, Thank you for your observation. I must admit that because I have not weathered or painted them I didn't even think about that level of detail. However - after your suggestion I have cut all the keys off. Naturally weathering will tone it all down and hide things a little too. Newtz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 I've positioned a few figures around the layout, just to play with how it all looks more than anything. I tell you, this simple act alone really brings the layout further to life!! Notice the tools and shovel on the right 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 This is really coming on. I pity those guys that are so afraid of getting their shoes dirty that they are standing on milk bottles. Seriously, though, I wonder if Modelu would consider resin brake blocks for builders? It would make shorts between brakegear and wheels a thing of the past. Plus they look better than etched ones. I tried to get some made once, but my guy never came through with any. I even had a 3-d drawing of one from the A1 locomotive trust. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Alan's figures are excellent, I particularly like the guy with the oil can. Are you planning to stick them down, or use the "pin up the leg" approach to allow them to be repositioned? Re the resin brake blocks - I made a silicone mould using the cast block-and-lever assemblies from a kit as masters a few years back, and cast my own from that in 2-part polyurethane if I have a shorting problem. They are ok, but a little fragile. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Re shorting out of brakeblocks. I always coat the 'rubbing face' and back of the block with a smear of epoxy. That way you get the strength of the brass or whitemetal and i've never had one short out afterwards. Ray. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 This is really coming on. I pity those guys that are so afraid of getting their shoes dirty that they are standing on milk bottles. Seriously, though, I wonder if Modelu would consider resin brake blocks for builders? It would make shorts between brakegear and wheels a thing of the past. Plus they look better than etched ones. I tried to get some made once, but my guy never came through with any. I even had a 3-d drawing of one from the A1 locomotive trust. Thank you Jeff Love the 'milk bottles' joke. I hadn't thought of it like that before. Re the brake blocks: Approach Alan from ModelU and commission him to do it. Now that he has at least got the basic block shape I'm sure he will be able to produce what you need in high quality. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 Alan's figures are excellent, I particularly like the guy with the oil can. Are you planning to stick them down, or use the "pin up the leg" approach to allow them to be repositioned? Re the resin brake blocks - I made a silicone mould using the cast block-and-lever assemblies from a kit as masters a few years back, and cast my own from that in 2-part polyurethane if I have a shorting problem. They are ok, but a little fragile. Best Simon Hi Simon, I'll probably go for the pin up the leg, as having the figures always in the same position will get a little tired I'm sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 I've started to paint the loco crew figures, after having now been inspired after seeing how good they look on the layout. All figures have been sprayed in grey primer and then I've gone over with a coat of matt dark/navy blue. They are looking great so far and when they are completed I will post some photos. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Those figures look good around your depot, things are certainly taking shape now with all these little details being added. I've just ordered a few figures from Modelu and am looking forward to receiving them. Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Newtz, Those discarded rail chairs need to have the keys removed, hope you do not mind me pointing this out as I'm not your usual rivet counter. Martyn. And don't forget to lop the screw heads off and drill the holes out! I have done this on Royd Hall and although it's tedious, and they're such a small detail, it makes the difference. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newtz1981 Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) I'm in discussions right now with Jon from Boltons Bits, about producing a 2 disc ground signal for Newton Grove. It will be placed between the two tracks just behind the boothy/almost under the bridge. I've seen videos of John's work and they are amazing. There was even one video where the signal bounced after it has been placed back to STOP - very very impressive. If you haven't seen Jon's work, check out his website: http://www.boltonsbits.com/ Thanks to Stephen Fay for putting me onto Boltons Bits Edited October 18, 2016 by Newtz1981 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Newtz, it's "Jon" rather than "John" and yes, they are b....y good! best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted October 18, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 18, 2016 I'm in discussions right now with Jon from Boltons Bits, about producing a 2 disc ground signal for Newton Grove. It will be placed between the two tracks just behind the boothy/almost under the bridge. I've seen videos of John's work and they are amazing. There was even one video where the signal bounced after it has been placed back to STOP - very very impressive. If you haven't seen Jon's work, check out his website: http://www.boltonsbits.com/ Thanks to Stephen Fay for putting me onto Boltons Bits Can totally recommend Jon's work - i've one of his handbuilt 7mm ground signals sat here waiting to go on Marsh Lane - he progressed with that quicker than I did with the layout! But the detail and operational of the signal is mind-blowing. You really won't be disappointed - he's going to be doing the rest of the ML signals once i've got the layout progressed a bit! Well done on Newton Grove btw, really is coming on superb, and the people just add to the reality. Great stuff Rich 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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