RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 Right having planned this layout in various scales & schemes since 2007 this is the year its gonna get completed ! - please feel free to keep up the pressure! Timeline:2007 : finescale O or possible S7 shunting layout 2009: half completed 4mm/OO layout aborted due to potential house move: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=40458 2011: half started apa box aborted due to lack of space 2015 is going to be the year of the double APA box - locolift fiddle yard completed project - he hopes!back soon! lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 Ach I was gonna sell it all then go back to N gauge again but need to do this lol - may run a parrallel project in N though? need to focus on one project/scale to completion I know I can do it lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 yeh keep flittin between the 2 I reckon a small stock of each then - out of my N stuff I kept the Dapol 26 which I couldnt bear to part with such a nice model but no stock to go with it- loads of n gauge flexi - plus a few points . will just keep hold of them in case I get the bite... a handful of wagons doesnt cost much does it ? lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajaxjones Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Is it finished yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 Is it finished yet? naw just give us anther 6 yrs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
col_kilgore Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Looks intriguing , will keep an eye on this . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
col_kilgore Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Just had a quick peek at your thread on the old forum . Pity that didnt get completed looked good , you must do a tutorial as to how you did the cobbled section in the yard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium skipepsi Posted January 21, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 21, 2015 Get on with it I found it inspiring a long time ago...... not that I have finished much inbetween. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Good to see this back, I always liked the half completed 4mm version and had harboured thoughts of nicking the idea for something similar. Can't beat a bit of northern grot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 I've been looking at the original plan with the loop and think I will put this in the line nearest the back - possibly also with a tunnel entrance and 2nd hidden siding where the short spur is in top pic: the trackplan being inspired by Hugh Flynns one in the original (4mm) thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 Just had a quick peek at your thread on the old forum . Pity that didnt get completed looked good , you must do a tutorial as to how you did the cobbled section in the yard. Thanks - we were trying to move (house & area) at the time - was a big move and we needed to store stuff for 6 weeks whilst we lived in a caravan... thats how it never got done that time! The cobbles were metcalfe ones that time - but think would go for Wills sets or scribe modelling clay maybe as the metcalfe looked and ARE flat. Even though they are obviously yorkshire cobbles and as such the correct colour. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks - we were trying to move (house & area) at the time - was a big move and we needed to store stuff for 6 weeks whilst we lived in a caravan... thats how it never got done that time! The cobbles were metcalfe ones that time - but think would go for Wills sets or scribe modelling clay maybe as the metcalfe looked and ARE flat. Even though they are obviously yorkshire cobbles and as such the correct colour. If you're scribing sets consider tile grout or plaster too, I found it a bit easier than modelling clay and it's pretty durable, hope you don't mind the pic but these were done with Wickes ready to use plaster and I've had no cracking problems etc with it. Appreciate it's a slightly different usage but hopefully it gives an idea. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 21, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2015 If you're scribing sets consider tile grout or plaster too, I found it a bit easier than modelling clay and it's pretty durable, hope you don't mind the pic but these were done with Wickes ready to use plaster and I've had no cracking problems etc with it. Appreciate it's a slightly different usage but hopefully it gives an idea. Thanks! feel free - excellent result too! how much did you but down at a time and what did you scribe with? I've got some gauges sorted now I think and fresh supplies of copperclad so this incarnation will have bespoke pointwork - gonna give OO-SF a try - thought about EM again but its just the rewheeling as alot of stuff will be shunters thinking of using 08 for diesel era, J94 or Jinty to start with for steam but will be looking at other options too esp the lima J50 on pannier chassis - but thats a long term aspiration lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks! feel free - excellent result too! how much did you but down at a time and what did you scribe with? I'd generally put anything upto a linear foot down at a time, then allow it to go off for a few days. Scribing was done with an engineers scribe and a steel rule. For granite setts they're a bit overscale (I put yards and yards of the real thing down in the day job....) but a lot of West Riding railway yard setts were bigger sandstone ones so you could make them a touch bigger. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Great news on the restart of this project in a new format, Russ Long term aspirations You won't have to resort to the old Lima J50 buy the time you get this done you will be able to get a RTR straight on the rails from Hornby will cost less than cutting up 2 loco's to make one any way Maybe a challenge there Russ, a race to the finish, your layout complete waiting for the model or the model waiting for the layout to be complete so you can give it its first test run. "You did say to apply the pressure"!!!! Happy Modelling Chris from Down Under Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted January 24, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2015 Long term aspirations You won't have to resort to the old Lima J50 buy the time you get this done you will be able to get a RTR straight on the rails from Hornby will cost less than cutting up 2 loco's to make one any way Cheers that had slipped by me un-noticed! def another good reason for getting on with it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I remember following the original thread of this. You can't give up on it, it just has to be made! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Is it finished yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I remember following the original thread of this. Yeh and we are all growing much older waiting ;) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted February 10, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2015 Just waiting for track gauges to come - then will start! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted February 15, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 15, 2015 need to focus on one project/scale to completion I know I can do it lol Yes. Hmmm. I am currently building my S scale project, which was supposed to be 1:64 two foot narrow gauge, as 00/HO standard gauge. Well, actually HO wherever possible, but with a loading gauge to accept 00 as well. The layout is almost entirely landscape, very few buildings, so perhaps I will get away with it. Let the trains set the scale. Anyway, I am looking forward to this topic growing because I want to see how you get on with 00-SF. Which as far as I can see, in terms of the geometry and placement of the rails, might be called 00/HO-SF. Many years ago I built a beautiful length of inset 00 gauge track and in my innocence made the check rails too far apart for the usual 00 back to backs. I still remember the feeling I had ripping it up and redoing it with bigger flangeway gaps. I am sure, 00-SF will be an aesthetically pleasing way to go for dockside and similar tracks, even if connected up to RTR pointwork. What rail section will your track be? I have some Peco code 60 "conductor rail" and I'm thinking, if I solder this onto copper clad sleepers, it will give quite a gentle, light-railway look to a siding which can then disappear under concrete infill and have quite a narrow rail head too. - Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ramblin Rich Posted February 15, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 15, 2015 Nice to see this being resurrected & good to see another 00-SF convert. For my layout* I'm intending to use 00-SF for pointwork, but stay with 00 off-the-shelf flexi track; however I do intend to incorporate a level crossing (or 2) and building short sections of 00-SF would work well in those areas to improve the visual look of the flangeways. I would think that just removing the sleepers in the crossing area, substituting a few strategic copperclad sections and easing in the track to 16.2mm, then adding the checkrails for the crossing should work.... * Russ might remember my layouts have been even longer in the planing phase...! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted February 16, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2015 Nice to see this being resurrected & good to see another 00-SF convert. For my layout* I'm intending to use 00-SF for pointwork, but stay with 00 off-the-shelf flexi track; however I do intend to incorporate a level crossing (or 2) and building short sections of 00-SF would work well in those areas to improve the visual look of the flangeways. I would think that just removing the sleepers in the crossing area, substituting a few strategic copperclad sections and easing in the track to 16.2mm, then adding the checkrails for the crossing should work.... I'm more of an admirer of 00-SF than a convert. I crave/need the small curve radii you get with ordinary 00. But as you say, a level crossing would be a good test piece. I'm looking at my "standard 00" track gauge, which has grooves for the running rails and check rails. Suppose I use this to set up the check rails first on some strips of copperclad. Then use some 1mm or so thick material as a spacer to add the two running rails. Leave the running rails over length, splay them out a tad and thread them onto some 00 sleeper base. - Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted February 18, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 18, 2015 Hang on - this 00-SF thing actually works! I've made myself up a short test piece using an ordinary 00-BF roller gauge to set the check rails first, and then the thickness of my steel rule (1 mm) to add the running rails. To make it more interesting I used some Peco code 60 FB rail, this is a bit underscale for main line rail but then so is the gauge! And, with sleepers taken from some Peco code 75 flexi track, my Bachmann class 03 diesel trundles up and down with its wheel treads on the rails and its flanges clear of the rail fixings. The flare from the 16.2 to 16.5 mm gauges isn't at all prominent. I've set the Peco sleepers at a pitch of 9mm, being roughly the HO scale dimension for 2' 6", to keep the proportions right. I don't fancy doing a whole layout with this, but for a long siding and one point intended as a "light railway" (part of a larger layout) I might just try. I never imagined the reduction of a flangeway gap by 0.15mm would make such an improvement to the appearance. Please excuse the dreadful soldering - construction of more than a few inches of track really does need the proper gauges - hopefully we will hear about these arriving soon? - Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ramblin Rich Posted February 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2015 That's a great 'proof of concept' and exactly the kind of thing I imagined! The soldering can be hidden by the road material anyway... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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