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SCRATCHBUILDING AN EX LSWR G6


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Right let me nail my flag to the post for another unfinished project.

 

I will be scratch building an ex LSWR G6 class 0-6-0 tank in 7mm scale . I have the drawing and had the intention of building it after I had finished other things. 

 

I will be using Slaters wheels and some ready made castings. I am unsure of the motor as yet but we will see as I progress.

 

I have a slight problem in so much as it will take some time before the bits I need will arrive here in Brazil. Does not stop me making a start though.

 

To be anywhere near finishing I think I will need to take one session a week out just for this.

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This is what I will be working from along with as many photos as I can find. It is not a particularly well photographed class.

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I am actually chomping at the bit to start cutting some metal. I have got some things going on inside my head for the build, which I think will be interesting for you and a challenge for me. I have decided to set aside Fridays as a time for this. Hopefully it will not interfere to much with other things. SWMBO is working later on a few days so that sort of counteracts the time.

 

I also have a front and rear drawing   but not to sure how accurate they are, but they will do for guidance if nothing else.

 

It is really just as well I put a large order in at Metalsmiths last week. Very timely, but could of got my wheels and castings for less. Now that is something I have started the casting list. It is long and has everything that Laurie dose for a G6 on it. I will now whittle out the bits I will make and the ones I have or do not need.

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Amongst other things done today, I managed to have a look the the spares box and found a few items that I need. I thought I had more but it seems not. I

 

The springs are ok but the hangers need a little modification.

 

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The buffers cam with an 02 kit I built, which for some reason had 8 sets of body castings, so I have found some heads and will all be mated to each other.

 

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The injectors are lovely brass castings.

 

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The Chimney and dome are from ABS but I need to find out if it will have a stovepipe or a Drommond chimney. The smokebox door is the right diameter, but may be replaced.

 

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The last parts are nice brass castings for the cylinder lubricators and sand pipes.

 

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Not a bad haul all things considered, There are of coarse gauges hand wheels and other cab fittings still in the spares boxes which will be of use no doubt.

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Today I cut some metal. I did not photo them as it is boring bits soldered together ready for cutting out the parts.

 

Next session I hopefully will be able to cut out the coupling rods, slide bars and connecting rods. The parts for the valve gear although I am still working out what way to do these.  The pacers are ready for making to length and folding as needed. The compensation side beam are ready for drilling and shaping. I have also sweated together the bits for the cab front, rear, bunker front, and rear. I have had to do this as I am short of sheet material and want to make sure it is not wasted.

 

The only thing I actually cut and filled were the frames. Thankfully Mr Adams made life easy for the modeller here.

 

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I have also been reading Bradley's Adams class. fortunately there is little difference in the way they look even though they had various boilers. The most noticeable bits seem to be 3 types of chimney, 2 stovepipes and a Drummond, 2 domes one with safety valves one without. The first 10 had beading on the front splasher. But I think the most important bit is that some had a 6" longer smokebox to make up for a short boiler. Plain or fluted rods.

 

Mine I think will as it stands with information I have so far, will have no splasher beading, the shorter smokebox, Drummond chimney, plain dome and separate safety valves, plain rods mainly as they are easier to scratchbuild. Also a steam reverser. I am trying to find one with a stovepipe chimney. At the moment I am planning to build number 160 but that may change.

 

Hopefully there will be something more interesting to show soon.

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Looking like an interesting project Peter. I think that you should get extra points for building this in Brazil, so far away from all the suppliers we take for granted here in the UK. I'll have to send you a photo of the spares I have from the O2 build - some might be of use to you.

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Hi Peter,  maybe something here may be of use -  http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Southern%20G6%20Class.html . I thought Jim had some drawings on line, but I guess I thought wrong. I bought his kit a couple of years ago, but still in the 'todo' list.

 

Best wishes, Ray

 

edit to add - also here -http://www.raymondwalley.com/loco/other/g6.html#.VQ39Ho79iQ4

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Hi Peter,  maybe something here may be of use -  http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Southern%20G6%20Class.html . I thought Jim had some drawings on line, but I guess I thought wrong. I bought his kit a couple of years ago, but still in the 'todo' list.

 

Best wishes, Ray

 

edit to add - also here -http://www.raymondwalley.com/loco/other/g6.html#.VQ39Ho79iQ4

Thanks

 

I had forgotten about Raymond Walley's build altough I had looked at in the past.

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Looking like an interesting project Peter. I think that you should get extra points for building this in Brazil, so far away from all the suppliers we take for granted here in the UK. I'll have to send you a photo of the spares I have from the O2 build - some might be of use to you.

The G6 has always been a favorite of mine. I built one to run on my EM layout from a Gibson kit. Thanks for the offer of bits. I have just made out my list for Laurie. I am sure it needs shortening. I have bought kits for less money. I am glad I am building the brakes etc or it would be even worse. The competition has come at the wrong time I had just order a load of track building material. I think I need to be working at the bench full time.

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I had a good day on the loco in between the the domestics that need to be done today rather than yesterday.

 

I dis a lot of marking out and made a start on the major parts for the frames.

 

I have managed to cut out so far the the connecting rods. I have just noticed though the small end hole will need carefully moving over. I also need to thin them down a bit from the small end to the shoulder.

 

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To go with these I have got the crank webs done, I did these differently to the ones I did for the 0395 it lead to the holes being more accurate.

 

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The spacers were next a simple case of cutting and folding. From left to right. The bottom one represents the cylinder block. The top one will be for body fixing and the back of the cylinder block. The next one will be the the firebox front, and lastly the rear body fixing.

 

 

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That's it for now more later. All a bit slow but there is no rush there's months to go yet!!!!

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A little more done.

 

I have now made the eccentrics for the axle.These turned out better than I had thought so my plan should work My only trouble now is I have out grown my largest reamer. not quite sure how to over come this.

 

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I have also made the the basics of the eccentric rods. The parts now need joining together and finishing. How I wish I had my lathe here, but that is another story.

You will see that they are made up of three parts two so I can make the forked end and one is a thickening part added to one side of the eccentric end. As I mentioned the eccentric end still needs opening out once assemble, but not sure what I will use at the moment. I would like to get this sort for the next session as I would like to see if my idea for the axle will work before I get to far advanced with the construction. The other main part of the experiment will need the crossheads and slide bars making. I will also try Hobbyhorse's (of this parish) approach to valve gear by making a sub frame for the slide bars crossheads and valve rods and guides.

 

 

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Finding time for more is going to be tricky with Easter coming. Hopefully we will be going to a place called Tucuri a small town in our state, about 6 hours from here. Lovey lake for swimming and fishing in. plenty of barbequing too.

 

 

 

 

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Beginning to make sense of the build now.

 

I decide I would make the coupling rods today before going back to the V3, putting up a shelf, and to make a start with the test track now I have the shelf for it to go onto. They need a bit of cleaning a polishing, I am veru [leased with the way they turned out.

 

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But one thing leads to another, and I got the frames ready for fitting the compensation. I did have a minor panic I never checked my stock of axle bushes, I do need more but I found enough for this build.

 

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Then this lead to making the compensation beams. The fitting of these will give me the clearances  for the crank axle and the unit holding the slide bars and valve rods.

 

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Well considering I was not going to be doing any of the G6 this week it is not too bad. Here are all the parts done today together. Next job will be to get the frames assembled.

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A very poor day at the bench, well hour anyway. Having spent 5 days away, and going to the coast and to lakes etc. Most of my time today was spent cleaning the beach from the clothes and the inside of the car. I hate sand.

 

I did manage to get the frames assembled up into a unit.

 

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The compensation beams are now ready to add. Which I will do tomorrow before I get back to the V1/3. I will be placing an order with Tower later today for some wheels for this little loco.

 

 

The front spacer was set at an angle as it will also double as the front and bottom of the cylinder block. I will be doing the front fixing spacer and cylinder rear slightly differently than mentioned this will be shown later as it develops.

 

 

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Reading a thread on WT there is talk that the last 10 of the class were longer M9 series.  But in Bradley's there is only mention of different length fireboxes and boilers, which were adjusted by longer smoke boxes. For something like longer frames one would of thought there would be something mentioned, or did he get it wrong?

 

Why would they change the length yet make them so that the boilers were interchangeable with the others.

 

Looking at the photos I have I cannot see anything as noticeable as longer frames or different wheel base.

 

Can anyone shed further light on this?

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I thought I would get the basic frames finished today, I should of been doing the V1/3, but I am week willed.

 

After tacking the front bushes in place and making sure they were square to the frames. I set it up in my jig with all the bushes and coupling rods, and then soldered the the centre and rear bushes to the side beams. They are back to front so I can remove the beams.

 

 

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Then I add the front pivot before I untack the front bushes. Remove the front side beams and cut a slot so that day light will be seen through the frame cut outs.

 

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The front side beams and bushes were put back together with a slip of paper between the frames and side beams to give a running clearance. These bushes are the correct way around and once it was all set up in the jig again were soldered to the side beams.

 

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Here we are all done, just waiting for the wheels and a lot of detailing.

 

 

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Needs a body too Pete!

 

Out of interest how have you done the beam pivots?

 

Hi Chris

 

On this one I have used 10BA screws. I know it is not Ideal in the engineering, I have used smooth and threaded pivots before without to much difference in wear. I do prefer to use a crankpin bush too. But there are shortage of those here so it will have a washer fitted later to each side and like.

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Although the time at the bench was mostly spent doing what I should be doing. I did have a play with the G6.

 

I assembled one of the eccentrics. I wanted to see if the idea worked. All I need now is a way to ream out the hole the right size.

 

 

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This evening I have been scaling from as many broadside photos as I can trying to find out whether there was two frame lengths. It is all a bit inconclusive at the moment. If there are two frame lengths I cannot model the one I wanted to. It also means that my coupling rods are wrong and need to be fluted.

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Hi Chris

 

On this one I have used 10BA screws. I know it is not Ideal in the engineering, I have used smooth and threaded pivots before without to much difference in wear. I do prefer to use a crankpin bush too. But there are shortage of those here so it will have a washer fitted later to each side and like.

I have used this system for many years and it's now incorporated in most of our kits but I did find that using screws for the pivots increased the wear on the frames or the beams. I changed to using rivets or plain pins of some sort.

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I have used this system for many years and it's now incorporated in most of our kits but I did find that using screws for the pivots increased the wear on the frames or the beams. I changed to using rivets or plain pins of some sort.

 

I agree that the use of a plain pivot is far better. I have some 10BA screws with plain shanks that I use on builds not for me. My own locos are only ever going to work very infrequently on a 6m layout. I expect they will outlast me by several years.

 

I like this system because it allows the frames to be not quite perfect but allow you to get all the wheels in the right place to get a free running loco, with the benefit of very smooth passage.

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I wish I had a layout that mine could do that. If we had a larger garden I would love a track out there. The ones I sell or are commissioned are built with smooth bearing surfaces. 

 

I was looking at stock today and realised I have a load of 1/16" rivets  I should use these up on the side beams.

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Wow, a great job.

Dave.

Thanks Dave

 

I have some locos that need finishing that will bring in some income, but I am really struggling to to leave this alone, I seem to have loads of ideas and mojo for the G6. I need to order parts for it which will take two months or so to get here.

 

Your 700 is coming on well. I have a 7mm one in the cupboard to do. I need to sort out the valve gear and motion for it, as in O there is a big hole under the boiler.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally managed to get some time on this.

 

Although it does not seem a lot it took a good session I assembled the other three eccentrics and finished all four ready for going into the loco.

 

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I have also been trying to figure out the way I am going to do the slide bar and motion bracket fixing.

 

Still lots to do even before I can get even before I have a running chassis.

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