RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted April 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 22, 2015 Daft question...if all the eccentrics are soldered to that axle...how do you fit the assembly between the frames? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 God I love inside motion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Daft question...if all the eccentrics are soldered to that axle...how do you fit the assembly between the frames? Not a daft question but one I had thought about. I will make the centre axle frame holes into a slot. Then it will be adding the side beams to the axle then threading both the motion and the side beams into place. If it is a bit fiddly its not too much of a problem as it will only be done a couple of times. God I love inside motion. N I just hope it all works. As it is all being done without the aid of machines, or safety net. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Had a good couple of hours at the bench today. I have manged to finish the crank axle. I modified slightly before adding the big end journals. I checked the fit of the eccentrics and ran the the axle in the drill whilst holding the eccentrics, It rotated quite freely. I will look when I take them off again to see if there is any marking that will hinder running in the future. After the running I cut the axle from between the webs, I still have a little work to do on it, but the next real task is to modify the connecting rods, so they can be easily fitted to the journal. I had not realised until making the crank axle the locos are left hand lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Just did a couple of bits today mainly spent the day finding my bench. With so many locos on the go I was working in a 6 inch bit of a ten foot bench. I modified the frames to double check my idea for getting the crank axle in. Fortunately it works, a lot easier than I thought. There is not a lot of space for the big end webs. They will run quite close to the nut holding the front side beams on, I will need to remember to lock them securely. I also made what I think are the expansion links and fitted them. Again it went together well, at least now I only need to mark them as left and right now. I am looking forward to seeing this all working. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 3, 2015 Author Share Posted May 3, 2015 I have been back to the G6. It seems to be slow progress but it is also most enjoyably. I am still doing the valve gear. It will be interesting to see it all working once I have the wheels on. These have now been ordered and are winging their way to me. They should be here by the end of the month. I will use the wheels from the 2mt to check everything later. The first bit to show for this session is the connecting rods. These I cut a in such away that they could be screwed back together then reamed out to 3/16 again. This is how it worked out not quite correct but works well. Once the two were done I fitted them to the crank axle, all seemed very good. I did notice one of the eccentric pairs was a little sticky, I will sort this when next stripped down. I think it is a screw catching. Back later with more progress I hope. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Lovely bit of engineering Pete. Maybe one day in the dim and distant future I may try that on a loco but for now I'm just grateful if the driven wheels go round smoothly at the same speed in the same direction/trajectory. I just wouldn't win if adding that level of complication! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Lovely bit of engineering Pete. Maybe one day in the dim and distant future I may try that on a loco but for now I'm just grateful if the driven wheels go round smoothly at the same speed in the same direction/trajectory. I just wouldn't win if adding that level of complication! JF Thanks Jon This is all an experiment for me. I have a superheated 700 class to do, which has enough room to drive your bus under the boiler. I want to see if working motion can be achieved with only hand tools. On the G6 I am sure the only bit to be seen will be the cross heads moving. At least I will know it is there. I am sure you would be more than capable. There are always Laurie Griffin's kits. I would like to try one of these. But with my list of castings costing more than I have paid for some kits. I took the skin flints route. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Bit more done, It feels like I am racing ahead at the moment, although very little loco to show for it. I have now made the frame containing the cylinder back and upper spacer, and the motion bracket. It went very well and sits nicely between the frames and leaves just enough room for the compensation side beams.It is still to be fix, I will drill and tap for countersunk 12BA screws. You will also see I have added the valve guides to the motion bracket and the glands to cylinders. These are representations rather than exact copies. They look OK from viewing distance. I also made the slide bars and crossheads. The photo's shows a set of parts for one, the slipper is already assembled as I made both as a unit then cut it in half to get the two. The other show the assembled item along with the parts. I still need to add the oil pot to the top, looking at the drawings this was quite large. I still need to fit the slide bars to the frame above and then make up the valve rods. This will then need to be put in the frames properly and test, The cross heads slide nicely as do the valve rods although not made properly. More soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Having done a little more we seem to have a picture overload today. So to whats been happening this session. First off the slide bars were attached to the cylinder end with a short section of angle, a tube was also soldered to act as the gland and to run the piston rod in. The position was set by using a rod through the valve guides to angle and the crosshead for the height. A slightly larger tube was added to the outside of the gland tube to give a better shape, although it is hardly visible. Next was to make the valve rods, this are from tube and wire. The tube was slit at one end then squashed flat with a lump of bass in the slot. This was then drilled to make the forked joint. Once attached to the expansion links were tried in the frames. All seems ok just need to fix the sub frame in place and check it all works. For some reason I took the photos before the rear fixing of the slide bars was soldered. I can now get on with other parts of the loco. The motion Bracket needs some flanges adding to make it look like it will actually be strong enough. The only bit of the motion still to do is the reversing mechanism, which I have not even looked at. It will all be hidden anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Peter, great work. Just found you here as I don't normally stray far from the kit building section. Looks like the sub frame is working well, and I'm amazed your not using machines with the build, that's skilful work. With my Nelsons nearly done I'm looking forward to getting on with some scratch building, some industrial 16mm locos. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Peter, great work. Just found you here as I don't normally stray far from the kit building section. Looks like the sub frame is working well, and I'm amazed your not using machines with the build, that's skilful work. With my Nelsons nearly done I'm looking forward to getting on with some scratch building, some industrial 16mm locos. Simon Thanks Simon I would us them if I had some here I have a small lathe in the UK which I need to be shipped here, or sold. It is too heavy to come in the luggage. I had to sell my mill before leaving the UK as it weighed 50+kg. I am looking at buying here but hobby size stuff is very thin on the ground. Your nelson are lovely. Did you sort the faults found whilst running? I think I am following one thread you have about a 16mm loco. I have been looking at gauge 1 and 3 very tempting but space is tight at home for 7mm running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted May 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2015 Wow Pete, the motion looks very good, chunky and even a bit "oily". I've been sat here studying it to understand how it all works, it's a lot easier to relate to than a complex drawing. So your modelling even has a paedagogical bonus for some of us Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Wow Pete, the motion looks very good, chunky and even a bit "oily". I've been sat here studying it to understand how it all works, it's a lot easier to relate to than a complex drawing. So your modelling even has a paedagogical bonus for some of us Thanks Mikkel I am glad it is also of help to others. I have always been fortunate in that I can picture things from the drawing. It probably is oily I used a lot of 3 in 1 while putting it together. It will soon be time to check it with some wheels in the frames. Then it will need taking apart for a tidy up ready for painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Yes I've corrected the problems with the Nelsons, it was a couple of shorts. The paint shop now awaits. My 16mm posts will go under the titles of First Sunday In June Rolling Stock, another tread with the same name will cover the layout construction, surprisingly in the layout section. At this years 16mm show at Peterborough I looked at some gauge 3 locos, I've probably got enough different gauges on the go at moment but a nice size to consider. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Having done a little more we seem to have a picture overload today. .... That is just so sexy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Having done most of the motion, I decided to spend some time on something a little different. So on with some of the brake gear. I started off with the brake hangers, These were cut from brass, I started with 6, 2 inch squares soldered together. I use quite a large bit as it is easy to hold at the beginning, and less wasteful than small bits. I keep all the different laminated pieces so I do not need to solder sheet together each time I want cut something. Here are the hangers all ready for their shoes, etc. I also made the pull ties. For some reason the look odd in the photo. I will check their shape tomorrow. After cutting them to shape I added some 1mm wire to the ends, the part to be soldered was filed to half thickness. I have threaded one to 14BA I think I should of used brass wire or done them before adding to the pulls. We live and learn, the one at the bottom is the finished one. I will make the shoes from plasticard,and have a think about the pull rods, and the rear brake shaft and levers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 It has been a bad week for work on the G6. I have been fitting other battles and I am unsure if I am winning or losing. The very exciting news is........ I have finished the brake cross beams and my shopping list for Laurie Griffin. Hopefully I can get back to this at the weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted May 13, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 13, 2015 Progress is progress - sometimes small, sometimes big.Just got to keep moving Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Progress is progress - sometimes small, sometimes big.Just got to keep moving I agree. It is my own fault I have 4 locos on the go, and I get too easily sidetracked. It will probably speed up once I get to the body, frames always seem to take forever to get anywhere near ready for painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 ...It is my own fault I have 4 locos on the go, and I get too easily sidetracked.... *hollow laughter* Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Did you know that the 4mm scale kit for the G6 was the O2 with a different chassis? Nice work on the crank axle. I had made the Gibson G6 to EM gauge. I did not know. I built it straight out of the box, more years ago than I want to remember. I think there is a photo of it on here somewhere I may have to find it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Here in good old Blue Peter style. Here is one I built earlier. It is 4mm and was built straight out of the box from a Gibson kit. The one on this thread will be in the same livery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Very nice. I do like that Southern livery. Simple, yet smart. The lining and panelling sets off the green perfectly. The O2 and G6 are fairly similar - not quite twins, but definitely siblings and it is quite hard to tell them apart (I am told, having a more than passing but not all-encompassing interest in the LSWR), especially as the scale gets smaller. Anyway, an 0-6-0 chassis under the O2 body is what Alan Gibson himself told me he did to create the kit! It was not a bad model I never checked to see if it was correct. You can always see the family resemblance in the work of Adams and Drummond. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted May 17, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 17, 2015 There were of course variations of build within both the G6 and O2 classes such as boilers, safety valves, buffer beams and cabs however there was definitely at least one of those variations in each class that were very similar, as has been utilised by Gibson although some slight differences did still exist, especially around the cab side cut out shape. I am sure these slight differences would soon be picked up on these days if a manufacture of one version was to use the same body from one class for another, believe me it has been considered, but I can imagine the posts such a move would get on forums if it happened! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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