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7mm and larger Modelling Down Under - Layouts & Modelling projects


SMR CHRIS
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I've used Tamiya Fine Light-Grey primer. The Tamiya spray primers are the best I've found so far. I'm a bit undecided what shade of grey to paint it though. I've normally used Tamiya TS82 "Rubber Black" because I feel that it makes a good approximation of "Gunmetal Lacquer" but I have also used "Gunship Grey" to depict a somewhat faded paint job quite successfully. I suppose I'll need to learn a thing or two about weathering next.

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I've used Tamiya Fine Light-Grey primer. The Tamiya spray primers are the best I've found so far. I'm a bit undecided what shade of grey to paint it though. I've normally used Tamiya TS82 "Rubber Black" because I feel that it makes a good approximation of "Gunmetal Lacquer" but I have also used "Gunship Grey" to depict a somewhat faded paint job quite successfully. I suppose I'll need to learn a thing or two about weathering next.

Thanks for the Tip Martin

 

I'm lucky enough to have an air compressor and spray gear with a booth I think I mentioned It to you in a email or on one of your threads at one stage.

It's a portable spray booth that I got on line at a bargain price.

It has been one of the best investments as far as model painting as I no longer have to worry about the fumes plus I can spray in enclosed areas etc.

I have thought about trying some Tamya pressure packs for quick jobs so next time at the shop will look for the rubber black.

 

On the weathering it's not that hard, painting the model is harder and more complex

 

As an introduction start with pastels or chalks use a blade to scrape to a power then brush on or use a foam pad cheap ones for makeup are good as basically your doing what the girls do with their make up layering for more uniform coverage always cover in the direction the weather would go (use a photo)

 

With pastels and chalks if you don't like the effect you can clean off then have another go.

 

 

If you like it then seal with a spray on mat sealant or dulcote, you can find a couple of good ones at spotlight, and some Bunnings that have a craft sections (in Australia) the workable mat on right in photo is great as you spray on to give a good surface to apply the powers on say shiny plastic RTR models as a base for the weathering.

 

Just remember generally when you seal the powers, pastels or chalks you loose some of the brightness of the colours and it will look more subdued after the mat finish applied.

Just add a little more until it is to your liking.

 

The pastels are from the Hot Dollar shop or when spotlight had a 50% off sale you can get the up market ones for the same price as the Hot Dollar shop cheapies.

When you get a bit more adventurous the weathering washes are great for detail stuff like axle box grease fuel stains, water stains and rust a little goes a long way. They are expensive but they realy go a long way.

I realy like one called aged wood wash its is a lot more universal than for just wood.

Keep an eye out for the products to be on sale and then "Give it a go".

After that you can move on to air brushing

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WOW! That fuel spill on the 44 is absolutely spot-on! 

 

I find it generally quite easy to paint freight wagons. One or two coats or primer and the same with an overall paint colour. Clear gloss, decals, clear matt or satin. But weathering is something that I have not tried yet. I've never finished wagons to that stage!

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Nice touch on the 44 Chris.

Bob

 

 

Thanks Bob

I find it's part of the hobby I really like and am not scared to start painting on a model that maybe worth thousands of dollars, I think this scares some people but I just figure it's only paint and it can be done again if everything goes wrong, most times it can be cleaned off and you just start again or you go from a lightly weathered effect to a heavy work stained effect to cover your sins.

 

 

 

WOW! That fuel spill on the 44 is absolutely spot-on! 

 

I find it generally quite easy to paint freight wagons. One or two coats or primer and the same with an overall paint colour. Clear gloss, decals, clear matt or satin. But weathering is something that I have not tried yet. I've never finished wagons to that stage!

Martin you do a great job on the build of your models, if you ever want to try weathering your Welcome to trek up the coast for a day (Catch the Train) and we can have a session and do some of your models I have all the stuff needed and you will be surprised how quickly you can age a model. Even do a little air brushing if you feel game or I can do for you.

Weathering is also more than just for the trains structures and model cars are a great starting point to get your eye in and try techniques before attacking an item of rolling stock

For example just about everything in this scene has some sort of weathering and I'm going to do some more on the building as I only did enough to make the gaps in the concrete panels stand out and in photos it dosn't show up that it has a light dusting with the air brush but in person you can see the subtle colour dusting differences.

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The platform timbers were done with the aged wood wash (Mig) that I mentioned in the last post

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This is the 44class in full not the greatest lighting and taken with the iPad

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And double heading with a newly painted reverse livery version

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Hi Chris,

Nice stuff! Were did you get the DL-500? We had some in Greece!

Cheers

Andreas

Hi Andreas

Thanks for the comment's

 

Re the 44class

 

The DL-500 or World Series Alco is from Auscission Models was a run of 100 models no longer available.

Link http://www.auscisionmodels.com.au/KHIAC_44_Class_Page.htm

 

However another company has done a run of the same model unfortunately it was a lot more expensive.

See this link http://oaustkits.com.au as still available, go to the loco page.

 

Another 44 Class from the stable no weathering on this one it is in the Orignal style Colour's as per how the loco is preserved.

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Hi Chris,

 

thanks for the information....I will need to think about the DL-500. Its a nice looking loco which would suit my theme in the 60s but converting a brass loco...hm...on the other hand the loco is not so expensive....2250 aus dollars are about 1900 swiss francs. If you see how much 0 gauge brass models cost here (at around 4000 swiss francs for a brass 6-axle electric loco) I would say that it is ok.

 

The following link you will find some photos of the greek ones.

 

http://amnizia.org/gallery/gallery/33-seira-301-alco#fwgallerytop

 

Cheers

Andreas

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Andreas it's nice when an exchange rate works for you, Down in Australia it has only been that way for a really short time about a year ago now it cost us at least 25% more for most things form O/S depending on the country of origin.

 

As a starting point for a conversion they are very similar and the mods would be easy when compared to a complete scratch build.

 

Thanks for the photo link.

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If you don't mind a "near-enough" version, you can get FA-1 and FA-2 locos from the Bachmann Williams O gauge range. You can even purchase just the body shells. Looking at photos and diagrams, you would probably need two body shells and splice them together to make a scale-length model. Of course, you would need new bogies, but you might be able to get something suitable such as the Mechanism from the Atlas RSD-4/5.

 

WBB_ALCO_FA.jpg

 

 

A while back I bought an Atlas RSD-4/5 with a view to do a conversion to an NSWGR 40 class. I got part-way through the conversion when I abandoned the project and sold it on because in reality I would never build a layout that would require a mainline diesel locomotive, and as nice as it was, I really love steam locomotives and short country branch line trains.

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Well no real modelling this week.

This is the first access to Internet and is super slow.

 

 

Why a very large weather front passed through causing havoc in the area, A cat 2 Cyclone it was classed as.

We have large trees down some damage to the house fences gates roof etc.

No power since Tuesday and have been told may be days way.

Having to sleep in the lounge room as we have a large gum tree hanging over the bedroom just caught by the link of the tree next to it

Have damage to the back deck or patio area that resulted in lots of water entry lucky the Layout area was able to be kept dry but the flooring etc all got very wet.

 

So the only modelling that has been able to be done was to get out the paint brushes plus the old Humbrol tins and paint a few structures that needed doing well make a start any way, out doors in the breaks in the weather as the Modelling room is very dark.

It's just like camping but in your own house.

Luckly we have a large Hot water system but can't be long before the stored hot water runs out or goes cold 6 days usualy dose it on the last time we had no power for a while after a storm

It's not all sunshine in the big land down under.

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One of the buildings painted previous it was shellacked ply wood and is from an OldDog kit avalable on Fleebay.

 

Edit updated with two photos that I managed to get to load with the dodgy Internet access.also have a good video of the live powerline that the tree took down but it won't upload with such poor internet access

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Edit link to video mentioned in post

https://youtu.be/kEqfbOgyeZc

Edited by SMR CHRIS
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Could have been a lot worse with the gum tree Chris. I removed mine before they became a danger........ as they all are.

Hope you were prepared and will have power back on soon..

 

I keep a min of a months supply in the house at all times in non perishable food and essentials and a supply of camping gas to cook if needed.

When we got cut off with the floods and landslides a year or two back the supermarkets were running out in a couple of days.

'Just in time' only works in a perfect world. :>)

 

regards

Bob

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That's right Bob

We are prepared for this as we should be my Wife Shelley works for BCF (Boating Camping Fishing) so we have all the gear, power came back on yesterday (Tuesday) so made 7 days as did the Internet and phones,but we are still waiting for a Contractor to come and remove the dangerous trees. So still having to sleep in the lounge as one of the trees if it goes any further will be in the bedroom with a bit of luck can get back to do some modelling when we get everything cleaned up.

 

The only reason the trees were still there was the local council would not let us remove however the one that they would let us remove and was one we didn't want removed is the one that has caught the tree that has fallen towards the bed room.

 

One bonus with the trees that have come down they were the ones that would have stopped an outdoor layout due to their positioning I will now have a clear fence line Down to one of the back sheds thinking and could have a return loop under the back of the house and be able to do an out and back

Little to early for decisions yet, I have a line up of modelling to complete before can even think about planning to much.

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Insurance Council of Australia latest estimate for the insurance cost of storm damage for NSW is AU$295m with 41,500 claims submitted.

Would not surprise me, Chris

And I'm guessing that my bit would be close to $5000 just in material costs no labour so far and that's with out the cost of removing the trees that we are still waiting for a contractor to do they turned up hopeing they could get a crane to lift the tree that fell over the back of the house but couldn't get good enough access and would have needed one of those huge cranes anyway due to the distance from the road so they said it was down to the old fashion way by cut and drop by rope and left and haven't been back yet.

We keep finding more bits that got water or wind damage that was unseen initially so I'm guessing that $5k will rise in the end.

 

Still having to sleep in the Lounge room as if the tree in the back moves will be good by bedrooms.

 

Not much modelling done again over the last few days,

However just received some more parts for our NSWGR TAM sleeping Car kit

"Bogies parts" 6 wheelers turning out to be nice castings so will knock one up and post some photos as soon as it is done.

Edited by SMR CHRIS
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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Not much been going on Down under this month model train wise, but finally a building assessment for the storm damage will be done and the fencing contractor will be looking at my fences today so with a bit of luck will be able to get back to some normality soon did get to run some trains for the first time since the storm and made 2 quick videos see the links. One of a NSW 48 class and the other of a C38 both with a branch line Mail train that includes a TAM sleeper car, BR intermediate sitting car and a EHO Guards/parcels Van

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4XLz3Z6FTS8

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SE8ul5o94mo

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I remember seeing your 38 at Liverpool last year. I reckon that you could get someone to take the slaters boxpok driving wheels and turn them down closer to scale diameter. 6'2" is a much bigger wheel than the 5'9". I reckon you could get it down to 5'10" and still have a servicable wheel. Of course, the alterative is to use old Col Shepherd castings, and turn them down to GOG fine standard.

 

Sometimes I regret not becoming a fitter/machinist.

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Sorry Marty but the wheels will be staying just as they are for the time being, if I did one 38 would have to do all of them that's 18 wheels and it's not about to happen any time soon the PSM 38 will be correct if it gets done soon been waiting a few years now and will use that for photos when I want a true to scale but the other 3 Fox /OGH 38's run so well that I'm not going to mess with them.

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Finally got back to some modelling today mostly finishing touches like paint and decals today.

The shunters truck now has been paint and decals to match the Prototype L273

 

The 48 class dose some shunting with the shunters truck attached

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The TAM sleeping car now has its correct 6 wheel Bogies fitted and painted.

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See the TAM running in the video, links below.

 

Edited by SMR CHRIS
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Have they managed to remove your tree yet Chris?

regards

 Bob

Hi Bob

 

Yes Bob they have removed One that was the biggest and in a dangerous position on the house, the others they were coming back for later.

 

need the stump removed now so the side fence can be replaced

Then we just have to wait for the building company to start on the building repairs now, new roof and sidding on part of the house actualy more damage than I thought when the insurance building Co inspected, looks like the whole house has moved slightly, also water damage repairs inside thankfully we are fully insured.

 

On the Modelling front.

Back doing some modelling work on East Maitland. This Layout was started by a friend and built to a stage that he could basicly exhibit it before I took it over and am adding more detail and fixing some issues before it is exhibited againg including track work and a complete rewire for DCC opperation with frog juicers as orignaly was DC one loco in steam and of you didn't have the points in the right direction on one part you got no power an the other etc

 

I have started on the track rework on East Maitland was going to build new points but found I had 2 new Peco points that fit so won't wast any time getting it back up and running.

The track work was required due to a very tight reverse curve on the station main needing to be removed as big locos couldn't negotiate the tight radius in such a short section, this section will now be basicly straight and I can get a second goods siding in that will just hold 3, 4 wheel goods trucks for more shunting interest also gives some room behind the goods shed for access to the sheds back door previous if the little people had stuck there heads out the door would be knocked of by a passing train.

track laying Tomorrow fingers crossed

 

I also have just had 2 big lazy Susan ball raced bearings delivered to use as a centre pivot for the fiddle yards at each end of the layout they are 12" across and rated at over 400kg's so should be more than suitable for the job. Something for another post when I get to that These are all items so the layout will be easier to run at shows no lifting of Locos or wagons just turn the whole lot around should have room for 4 tracks on each fiddle yard allowing 8 trains or more if short trains or rail motors etc that can share a track.

Photo of track mocked up to check it will fit as thought.

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Making the most of a model railway that is only around 40cm wide esp in O scale can be a challenge.

Over the last two day it was decided to fix up this section , previously the approach to the station had a very tight reverse curve too tight for tender engines to negotiate.

Also whilst realigning it gave a bit of space for a second siding in the goods yard.

This siding was also installed today in the goods yard for added interest.

The realignment to the front edge of the main line, has given some space for more detail around the goods shed not much but some is better than none.

 

Decided to use Tam Valley frog juicers with the rewire of the layout from DC to DCC control with only 5 points I decided to go for the twin Juicers as on 2 of the 3 boards there are 2 points each and a single point on the last board

Have also installed a large gauge copper buzz wire system under the boards for the DCC.

 

Testing the track work live Loco's on all tracks

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Looking back towards the station

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The Tam Valley frog Juicer

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Edited by SMR CHRIS
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Been doing a completed rewire for DCC on my East Maitland Layout.

East Maitland the model railway was started by a friend and was originally wired very to a basic standard with Alligator clips between boards, these attached to brass screws, that were screwed through the boards and soldered to the rails.

If you didn't have the points in the right direction on one board you got no power to the last board of the 3 not DCC friendly in anyway.

 

I have modified the hand built points to isolate the frogs and set up Tam Valley Frog juicer's to automatically change the polarity with the result that if you run through a point with out changing No Shorts and with the weight of most o scale locos they will trail through the points without issue. Very happy with the frog juicers a little extra cost but with the intention of Exhibiting the railway soon if I can limit the chances of a DCC short and the reset and start again, It will be a good thing.

 

Also today a second Big River Models 12 Wheeler arrived for a first on track test run.

This TAM also a preproduction model but with all the improvements made as items were found during the testing the kit has been built and finished in orignal Cedar Red style with white roof.

 

photo of it with the first preproduction model that is a bit of a hybrid parts wise, painted as a varnished timber style car.

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With the weatherd under carriage of this car the detail in the bogies can be seen clearly

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I also took a quick video

 

 

 

 

EDIT added video links

Edited by SMR CHRIS
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Hi Chris, the TAM does look nice.

You are certainly making the most of your limited space.

 

You said you had a 59, interested to know if the bearing block sits flat under the chassis or is inset on your one.

regards

 Bob

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