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BritMod-OO Modular 2015 Challenge 3ft straight Badgers Vale update 25/5


Steve-e

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So 2nd board of the Challenge this is just a straight board 3ft long and I'm unsure as to what to put on it yet.

 

What I was thinking with this one was either. 

 

a. Twin Track scenic board. (Name:- Badgers Vale)

b. Twin Track through a station. (Name:- "Bankside" - the station, NSE theme)

c. Twin Track through a Yard (the yard not connected just a series of tracks on which I could store my stock) a bit like a fiddle yard without points... (Name "Flatland Yard" )

d. Single Track scenic board. (Name:- Badgers Vale)

e Single Track through a station.(Name "Bankside" - the station, NSE theme)

 

No points involved in any, just to show the basics for involvement in the project. At the moment I'm looking at a,b or c. as twin tracks are probably more adaptable than single.

 

I have the station ready and we don't appear to have many stations yet? if there was an influx of stations then either a or c?

 

but on with the construction first.

 

With the construction been similar to this board http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97881-britmod-oo-modular-challenge-border-curve/&do=findComment&comment=1842232 I'll start a bit later..

 

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As mentioned the construction is similar to the curved board with a main top board with sides and middle cross members.

 

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As per the curved board everything is handily etched with a description of inner faces and the part it is.

 

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This module came with 3 of the strengtheners as per the middle section of the above however as we need to accomodate legs for a modular meet I left off the outer 2.

 

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Again the bit I really liked was the side facia panels which were glued over everything to leave a smart clean finish.

 

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Like the curved board a handy guide line to show you where your track centers should be.

 

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The finished board. With this one screws were provided to give an extra grip but given its size probably not needed but it gave an extra layer of confidence when transporting the board.

 

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With the curved board showing the posibilities of the modular principle.

 

As with the curved board hopefully I'll make some legs next week.

 

 

Cheers

Steve

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You'd be wise to strengthen the corners with a block of 2" x 1" and add some thickness to the sides where the track joins up, to have some "meat" (rather: wood :P ) when putting it together with C-clamps. Recently we altered our standard and now have 23 mm thickness instead of the 9 mm of the previous end profile. It also gives you some distance from the edge of the board, useful when adjusting the height as you don't get tangled up so much with your neighbours legs ;)

Cheers legs is next on the list so I can build some of this in then. At the mo I have 12mm thickness on the ends but should be able to find something suitable to pad it out.

 

Cheers.

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Been thinking about what to put on it and I wanted to show the most basic of board so... out goes option c. the yard effort.

 

The station I have is OK but not really what I was wanting to achieve so out go b and e, this can wait for another day.

 

So it just leaves a straight through line either single or double track as my idea is to show the most basic board for participation out goes a. the double track.

 

So option d. the single line scenic board it is perhaps with a footpath or open crossing on for interest.

 

The single line will fit in with the curved board and one end of Bankside so no issues the home set up either.

 

And so Badgers Vale is born..

 

Better get some Badgers now..

 

 

 

Steve

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So the legs were this weeks project.

 

I intended to do both a set for the straight and a set for the curve but the adjustable feet for the curve only came today so didn't get time for the curve but the wood is all cut ready to go.

 

1st up I bought some lengths of 2" x 1" by 2.4m from Homebase. (other wood suppliers available)

 

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Next I found some previously purchased adjustable feet. With the other ones for the curved board I now buy from Station road baseboards they come with a protective cap over the end to prevent damage to flooring etc. But I found some of these which are felt pads for furniture on wooden flooring which should provide some level of protection to any church/school/village hall etc.. that we meet at.

 

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Next attaching the adjstable feet to one end of the wood.

 

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And adjusting the feet so they are in the middle. Examples shown all in bottom would give -1 inch then next one up all out to give +1 inch with the next up been in the middle and just right. 

Next measuring from the bottom of the adjustable foot up and taking into account the depth of the baseboard and any track underlay then the track you need to come up with a distance to the top of the track of 45 inches.

The adjustable feet will give an tolerance off -1 / +1 inch so I measured what I thought was right. I did over estimate as its easier to cut a bit more off than add on. :O

 

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8 small sections of the same wood were cut to the depth of the board these would turn into 1. a bit more support in the corner of the board and 2. a slot for the legs to go into. Doing it this way also gives approx. 2 inches from the end of the board so as not to foul the other legs on the adjacent board.

I used a spare bit of the wood to gauge the gap and using glue and screws attached them to the side of the board.

 

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If you are using Tim Horn's baseboards it may be useful to do this part prior to sticking the nice clean edge to the outer side of the board.

 

I haven't put a part across the two parts to form a hole rather than a slot as it seems to work ok without and is a lot easier to hit the spot. If this is a problem I can soon add something to make it a true hole to aim for

 

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Next I cut some lengths about 18" long to act as cross members of the legs and trying to get them to attach square was probably the hard part but luckily It all worked out and the legs did indeed slot home. With them been 18" long the cross members do stick out slightly but it does prevent the wood from splitting at the end.

 

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As I say I did over compensate on the lengths so when I first put everything together found I was about 1/2 inch to high this was soon fixed and allowing for the track bed and track probably I am there or there abouts (don’t forget you have the +1/-1 inch to play with at a meet.

 

 

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This was just to show the board in its new home with two lenghts of peco code 75 flexitrack placed on just to show what that would look like if I had gone for that set up.

 

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But I am going with a single track to show the basic of basic set ups for any meet.

Of note a length of Peco flexitrack is 3 foot long so fits perfectly with no cutting required.

 

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So next week we'll look at getting the track down and the basic electrics.

 

 

This is just my interpretation of how to do the legs there are other ways but for me this(seems to have) worked and were my 1st proper attempt at them ( the ones on the Bankside module are just loosely holding the board in place) .

 

 

Cheers

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was planning on getting some track down on this board this week but instead opted to get my "Border Curve" board http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97881-britmod-oo-modular-challenge-border-curve/?p=1842232 to the same height and work on them together.

 

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So while doing the leg work on that board I also made some banana jump leads for all the boards, cut some copper strips and started to plan out the basic wiring.

 

More to follow next weekend.

 

 

Cheers

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So onto some track laying.

 

As mentioned the Peco code 75 flexi track comes in handy 3 foot lengths so no cutting is required for the straight 3 foot board.

 

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first up I got all of the bits together for the project, Flexi track, Woodland scenics Track bed, some copper board cut into some strips.

 

 

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Measuring the copper board to see how many sleepers would need to be removes and to gauge where the pins would go to secure it.

The copper board is mainly used to protect the track ends from been damaged, Another alternative would be screws with the track soldered to those.

 

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Remember to isolate each track I used the mini cutting disc to remove the etching from the board.

 

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next up I drilled some pilot holes.

 

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before putting together..

 

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butting up to a piece of wood so that the track ends lined up with the end of the board.

 

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Then soldering to the copper board. Try to solder just the outside of the rail so the solder does not affect the wheel flange.

 

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Finally adding some droppers and the bus wire connected to some female banana plugs.

 

I did red down one side and black down the other but it doesn't matter what colour scheme you choose as the boards are reversible so you can end up with black to red etc...

 

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Once I did this board and the curved board I connected to my Dynamis system and success everything works ok and a train passed from one board to the other without a problem...

Heljan 47491 first down the line...

 

So thats the basic set up and all you would need to do to take part in a Modular Meet first one on June 27th so still plenty of time to get it together.

 

I'll add some scenery over the next few updates .

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Having now taken over the whole spare bedroom with modular boards thanks to SWMBO who was suprised at my offer to tidy the spare room up and not so when she found she had to duck under to get to the window :punish:  but it got to stay aslong as I dont make a mess.... :whistle:

 

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So I've now got about 11 foot up to test on. Going from Bankside through Border Curve to Badger's Vale.

I did find a slight problem in that I had pushed the copper strip with the track on to far down in the foam underlay stuff which was causing de-railments as the rear wheels co co-co locos would clear the track and not land inline. Its all sorted now and as I used pins rather than screws to secure the copper board its easy to adjust slightly if we have the same issue at a meet.

 

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The ballasting I've tried the new Ballast Magic which is alot easier than the traditional method of diluted PVA glue.

 

 

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The other change I made rather than having Badger's Vale as a straight through board which it still is there is now going to be a former junction with the old abandoned track bed coming off to one side.

This is purely cosmetic to add some interest.

 

 

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This is Border Curve also taking shape there is to be a pathway along side field then crossing the line.

Need a whistle board for all of the Sound locos :)

 

 

So still plodding on I'm off for 2 weeks at the end of May so hope to blitz both boards then.

 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

 

 

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So using the same principle at Border Curve.

 

 

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Started with some basic hill type shapes. It doesn't really matter on the shape as the plaster bandages do the forming and you can shape with those.

 

 

 

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Covered with plaster bandages dipped in water.

 

 

 

 

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This gave these which wouldn't be too bad if we were modelling a snow scene.

 

 

 

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A quick spray over with the Modelmates sandy colour.

 

 

 

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And we can start measuring up the walls and fences.

 

 

 

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As mentioned previously to add a bit of interest the board is to suggest a former junction with a disused signal box and the former trackbed of the long closed branch to Badger's End.... :stinker:

 

 

 

 

More coming soon.

 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Onto adding some more scenery.

 

Imagine the rolling British countryside mixed with Tellytubby land ..... :paint: and were getting there...

 

Now for a "virtual" History lesson back in 1067 there was a little known battle a mere year after Hastings, called "The Battle of Badger's Vale" and at it many lost their lives protecting the English soil and were buried under a mound surprisingly called "The mound of Badger's Vale" now this has recently been designated a site of significant interest preserved by English Heritage but not before it was sited between the single line to Lulworth Castle and the former line to Badger's End the Railways not taking into account this minor obstacle but they did manage to avoid flattening it.

 

At least that's how the folklore tells it , in reality the Mound looked out of shape once it dried but it does fit with these odd bumps and lumps we have left on the landscape so thats what it will now be.

 

Onto some scenery.

 

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Painting all of the hills and mounds with a brown colour along with some hints of the sandy colour coming through.

 

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Next I covered all the areas that would attract grass with glue as grass would struggle on a vertical surface some of there were left brown.

 

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Then sprinkling some grass fibres on the glue along with some Hornby scenic scatter.

I couldn't find my tea strainer tool so just dropped them from a height and left a while then hoovered off the excess and got a good result for grass.

 

 

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So this is where I'm up to today "The mound of Badger's Vale" is the bottom left lump in its English Heritage enclosure.

 

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The fences are laser cut cardboard took a bit of making each length but I like them.

 

More to be added soon.

Steve

 

 

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Steve,

 

You've certainly made good progress with the scenery given that you only started this month.  My only criticism of your progress so far is the angle at which the former branch line diverges from the remaining running line.  If you were to imagine the rail line being reinstated, the point work would have something like a 6 inch radius, or even less.  It's not even set-track standards of curvature.  If you can try and create a better curve between the former line and what remains of the branch (ie the current track work), I think it would look better, visually.  I appreciate that you have already erected a fence that will limit the scope somewhat, but even a little bit of extra ballast should help to make it look like there was once a point at that location.

 

On a different matter, in post #6 you show track being laid and your banana plug binding sockets can be seen attached to metal fixing brackets.  Where did you purchase these from? 

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Yeah thought it was a bit tight the fence follows a better curve so I'll have a go at forming a better flow tomorrow.

 

The brackets are called stretcher plate angle brackets you get around 6 for £3 on ebay. The cheaper banana plugs I got wouldn't fit them the better gold quality ones went in with a bit of trimming of some plastic rings that came with them.

The other option would be to open the holes out a bit.

 

Cheers

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An early morning start today to take on board what Dungrange was suggesting.

 

So set about adding a bit more of a curve to the disused branch line.

While I was at it also planted some trees and added some bushes etc.

 

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looking better just need a touch more at the top where the old join to the main branch was.

 

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I've added some tufts which had previously grown between the sleepers when the track was lifted.

 

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Some more colour added around the mound and the opposite hill and some trees added to the other hills.

 

 

"Where are the Badgers!" I hear you cry... OK maybe not but that's what it sounded like...

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Some Badgers have also moved in to their freshly dug set.

 

 

 

Cheers

Steve

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With just a little over a month to go to the first meet I think I've managed to cover all of the boards in something so there should be no bare wood showing.

 

So re-attached everything together and did some test running up and down with Heljan Class 47 (Heavy), Bachmann 08 (as an 09) (Short) and Hornby TTS Class 40 (Long and light)

 

Still had a slight problem derailing as the curve met the straight at one end only(with the class 40) but managed to sort it so all now run up and down.

 

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Hornby TTS class 40 rebodied/renumbered and weathered as 40012 with 6 x FTG models SPA wagons.

 

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09024 with single Cambrian kit wagon.

 

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09024 in the summer haze.

 

While out for a ride on the Cumbrian Coast class 37's on Saturday 23rd May I spotted the landscape I'm hoping to capture, here's some pics of it all taken from the train.

 

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Now for some more bushes,Gorse and sheeps etc.

 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

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Steve, add a blue Landrover and mini-versions of Mick, Tony, Carenza and of course Phil ;) A JCB and spoil heap would finish the scene :yes:

Thanks for the idea.

 

I've started project "Time Team" on the modules.

 

1st up is Victor sitting in a field on his own doing a sketch of how the landscape was back when the "Battle of Badger's Vale" was taking place.

Just loosly placed on the bank of the River (on the Bankside module) for the photo awaiting his new location to be found.

 

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It's behind you Victor...

 

 

 

Cheers

Steve

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Just a small update to my off on a tangent "Time Team" project for Badger's Vale.

 

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I purchased an Oxford models blue landrover and reduced some Time Team badges down in size on the PC until I thought they were just about right.

Then cutting around them and sticking them on the Landrover.

 

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And hey presto Tony's Landrover :) I think he had a later model but trying to cover a wider date range with this one.

I have noticed the face on the door is looking the wrong way this has since been sorted.

 

Camera crew is on order now as are some diggers and hopefully something that will pass of as Mick and Phil with a bit of modelling.

 

Just need to find a Tony and Carenza..

 

 

Steve

 

 

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Made a couple of "English Heritage" style signs to provide some reason for the "Mound of Badger's Vale" in its enclosure with the "Time Team" presence rather than an odd shaped bump that it started out as. 

 

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The Camera crew have arrived to set up. Mick, Phil etc... must still be down the pub.

 

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ooh Tony look at the camera mans muscles :O

 

 

Steve

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So the Time Team crew emerge from the Pub and get to work.

 

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Tony and Mick check the latest geo-phys under the watch of the Camera and sound man.

 

 

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While over in Trench one "Phil you better come quick"

 

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False alarm as Phil makes a dash "it was an old ring pull from a 1970's can of Coke...."

 

But hang on thing are getting exciting in Trench two.

 

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The view from the Helicoptor to show the whole area.

 

A worth while project especially trying to source some figures that fit the scene thanks to "Dutch Master" for the initial inspiration. :) and all achieved in a Time Team three days .... yeah right..... 

 

 

Cheers

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

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