The Great Australian Outdoors

[81A Oldoak]

Today I got to trial run the hopper rake.

A few things to tidy up but I was impatient to see them run.

So after the ANZAC day dawn service I took them out for a run in the sun.

 

alphabet coal train 2.jpg

 

 

regards

 Bob

Like very muchly.

[SMR CHRIS]

Nice work Bob in double quick time as well,

A nice variation with a high sided wagon in the rake looks spot on.

[robertc]

Thanks all.

 

I also have one on the wrong underframe too, just to add to the prototypical mix Chris :>)

 

regards

 Bob

[hartleymartin]

So many variations possible with the non-air hoppers! Timber or Steel or Composite underframes, and many different shapes for the hoppers, arrangements of the lifting hooks, etc.

[robertc]

Thought I might make a move on a pile of bits taking up room in a box.

A Ron Fox 59 class kit with Slaters wheels.

 

 

regards

 Bob

[hartleymartin]

Are these Fox kits still available? I recall that he had a 35 and a 59 in his range. They are a bit basic, but give you an excellent starting point to super-detail a model.

[robertc]

My memory tells me this kit or a 35 was the last of the kits that Ron had left a few years ago when we did a trade Marty. The 35 was never high on my list despite numerous trips behind them so it had to be the 59.

You could ask around, you never know. Access to a drill press would be useful if you get one as there is some serious cutting out of slots in the body and frame to be done.

regards

Bob

[hartleymartin]

I doubt that I'll ever have a layout big enough for a 35 or 59, but I must admit that I do rather like both, the 35 in particular. The 35 class was my gateway into the NSWGR after being rather keen on the GWR as a teenager. Then I fell in love with the 19 class, and even forked out for an RTR one when I was working full-time. Sold the 19 class a few years ago because it only came out of it's box twice a year, and I had been harbouring a desire to own a 20 class and a 30 class. The latter has been available for a while as a kit, but we're still waiting on the former!

[SMR CHRIS]

Thought I might make a move on a pile of bits taking up room in a box.

A Ron Fox 59 class kit with Slaters wheels.

 

regards

 Bob

Hi Bob I will find a photo of Ron's 59 and post for you, Ron said that the 59 kit was one of the smallest run kits he did so is a bit of a rarity.

[robertc]

OK, look forward to seeing it Chris. I'll keep an eye out on your thread.

Sounds to me like you are in the wrong scale Martin.

I had N scale when I lived in a bed-sit. HO I can do in spare room, S is the largest that will fit in the garage and I have had gauge 1 in the yard. Should I end up in a bed-sit I'll be back in N scale :>)

 

regards

 Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

Hi Bob

Thanks for the comments over on my post

Re the Fox 59 kit

And you are in luck with the 59 it is in the work shop and being striped down so easy for photos.

The Axle Block is located directly on the chassis block was lookng how to fix this at the moment as it results in the buffer hight being way to high.

See the photos I may wait until I can afford a good quality milling machine to rectify the issue as you can see in the photos the Hight is way out as supplied in the kit.

I haven't measured the wheels to see if they are correct yet (can't find my calipers) but I think it is the Chassis issue and it needs notching to accept as the cylinder block and piston rod don't line up with the center of the main driver that the connecting rod goes to as should be the case.

Ron has located the connecting rod lower than the piston rod on the cross head to make it look 1/2 ok.

Remembering that these kits were intended orignaly to be basic 3rail types.

So I guess we can consider them now as scratch building or kit bashing aids to get a fine scale model from.

 

 

The comparison of the front buffer beam hight to a wagon.

 

Also Sorry realise I had forgot to post up some photos of the 59 as I said I would.

[robertc]

Thanks Chris, initial measurements showed mine 7mm too high. Could not do it on my little lathe so have sent it to the local engineering works to have the slot milled out.

Think it might have been forgotten when making the chassis mould as Col's bearing blocks are normally inset. Yes, Ron's products were predominantly for the 3-rail market even though he modified his own for 2-rail use.

 

regards

 Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

 

Good to know that you have a local workshop that can do small milling work, the good thing about living in a country town.

 

We have lots of engineering shops around here but none want to do such little jobs when I have walked in and asked about doing little milling jobs like this they look at it and say just that and only the one and they come back with a rediculus price.

 

So I decided to save up and buy a small miling machine as it will pay for itself by the time I have done all those little jobs.

 

A small milling machine to do the jobs required it is still quite large around 70kg I intialy thought may be able to get away with a small bench top hobby unit but soon found that the bed travel is so short that you can't do much esp with O Scale in mind, may be Ok if only doing HO/OO scale stuff but with O scale in mind a larger (small) machine is the go not cheap though so saving up for it.

I'm looking at it this way it may be one of those tools that gets use every now and again but the time saving using it will be huge and as they say Time = Money,

I added up the number of little jobs I have done this year that required large amounts of file work to produce a slot or get a nice flat surface and relisted I can easly justify the purchase just have to save up enough money now to get the one I want.

[robertc]

I think i understand why so many model engineers have said they get more use out of their mill than the lathe Chris  :>)

I have a Taig and considered using the money I would spend at the metal fab shop to purchase the vertical slide (milling attachment). Due to the way my motor is mounted I couldn't get enough travel. I think I might get the slide one day anyhow. Yes, you do need a bit bigger equipment sometimes with 7mm.

regards

 Bob

[robertc]

Sometimes train services have to be suspended even here. We don't all live on the Gold Coast or at Bondi. :>)

 

 

regards

 Bob

Edited February 14, 2023 by robertc

[robertc]

Before I went outside I had another shunting layout in the garage.

Here are some pics of the layout being built.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Atlas F9 and a piece of commercial track were a temporary abberation, rest is code 100 track and scratch stock.

 

Now a set of sidings for the great outdoors.

 

regards

 Bob Comerford

 

Edited February 14, 2023 by robertc

[robertc]

Did some assembly of the 59 class tonight.

 

 

 

 

regards

 Bob

Edited February 14, 2023 by robertc

[hartleymartin]

I heard that many of the masters for these old Fox Kits were lost in the Queensland floods a few years back, and there is some other trouble with a moulding company who claim that they own the masters/moulds which effectively make these kits now unobtainium.

 

Such a shame that the 59 and 35 class kits are not available. The tooling could be brought up closer to modern standards and they do build into quite nice kits. At least they're not like the old Col Shepherd kits which were cast in gunmetal!

[robertc]

This kit uses Col Shepherd brass bearing blocks and other parts Marty. You will find Col Shepherd parts in many of the other offerings of the era.  The bronze boilers were either loved or loathed depending whether the owner preferred to solder everything.

While I am sure it will assemble into a useful engine, it is more assisted scratchbuilding than what would be classed a kit for the last 40 years. I doubt many new buyers would be happy with this standard of product, it is typical of the offerings from O gauge house, Col Shepherd etc.  The only difference to the 40's era products is the use in some instances of urethane instead of brass or metal castings, some would argue that as a backward step.

 

What would be good is if the common castings from many of the old ranges such as domes, chimneys, headlights etc were taken over and continued to be offered. It is not hard to make the flat bits on the kitchen table but having access to cast fat bits means not needing a workshop. It would also help if new manufacturers of local prototype kits did the same.

 

Meanwhile, I need Slaters to do a 38 class driver.... I'll continue to dream. :>)

 

regards

 Bob

Edited October 15, 2015 by robertc

[SMR CHRIS]

Meanwhile, I need Slaters to do a 38 class driver.... I'll continue to dream. :>)

 

regards

Bob

Hi Bob they do have masters of C38 wheels I have tried to contact them about but my email requests are never replied to.

 

Orignaly They where sourced by David Peterson modelling services but I haven't got any contact details for David so went direct to Slaters with out luck may have to Phone direct.

I need 4 sets I have been asked by another modeller for 2 sets if I was able to get in contact with Slaters about?

 

Photos of them exist so Slaters must have the masters.

 

Will do some more investigations and let you know, Ernie may also like a set if they are available for his Black Beauty Fox 3803.

 

 

 

The 59 is coming along nicely

Bob was the tender hight incorrect with your when assembled?

I'm going to source a smaller wheel set as can't get the bogies any closer to the under frame and get to articulate I now have access to a big mill to do the chassis mods to reduce the loco hight differance in one pass so will be nice and accurate.

 

Regards Chris

Edited October 15, 2015 by SMR CHRIS

[robertc]

Chris you had the same non response from Slaters re these wheels as I did. Piss poor customer service! If they did not want to, or could not, they at least should have answered queries. I wonder if everyone gets treated that way ?

 

Yes, the tender is too high. I think the answer is smaller wheels and some 1/4" scale bogies.

I used the services of a machine shop to mill my chassis.

A tip - have them mill a slot wider than you think you need as you may have to adjust the position of the bearing block for the wheels to clear the cylinders once they are raised.

 

regards

 Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

Thanks for the tip, Bob the mill I have access to, I will be doing the machining my self so that's good to know my biggest issue is that I will have to take some from the brass bearing block and the Alloy frame as Ron cut a deep slot in the top for the north west CAN motor

The frame doesn't have enough left to get the hight reduction and I would end up with 2parts nothing simple with this one unfortunately.

 

Re the tender I think the smaller wheels will be the go and may I look for a set of bogies from the US. Should be a Baldwin set available from some one.

 

Re Slaters also not impressed with the non contacts a simple thankyou for your enquiry, sorry not available or yes but you need to order Xnumber of sets.

 

Say 10 sets that's 60 wheels you think they would like the £'s for those.

 

Happy Modelling

Chris

[hartleymartin]

I remember seeing those wheels on David Peterson's stand some years ago.

[robertc]

Perhaps next time I'll tell them my name is Windsor ...or perhaps even Waterman might elicit a response. :>)

 

The alternative is to start with Col Shepherd blanks and reprofile, open out the holes,  insulate and make axles. A job I'd prefer to avoid.

 

That V cut does make it more difficult for sure with the 59 chassis.

 

I altered my tender bogies with new stretchers to be flexible as per Col Shepherd's method. As a rough measurement the bottom of the frame sits about 5mm too high. It might also be worth considering taking a mm off the top of the bogies as an alternative to 1/4" scale ones to allow the chassis to come down lower. That plus the smaller wheels might just give enough to make it look OK.

 

regards

 Bob

[robertc]

Tender bogies.