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Freemo Module "Sullivan Scrap"


squeaky
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I had one of those Kibri claw kits - I had a dreadful time trying to assemble the claw (which works) - it is a bit like doing the hokey-cokey - you get the last bit in, and the rest falls out, In  -out  - in - -out - throw it on the floor and rude words shout!!  and eventually gave up and glued it in a suitable position! The other item worth getting is a tracked  Hydraulic shear for cutting up rebar and girders. There were none available so I  eventually made one and fitted it to a diecast excavator, but I have since  seen them for sale at Perth Exhibition last year.  It looks like this but this is 1:50  http://www.cranesetc.co.uk/library/ismreviews/4500r/4500rreview.htm

Edited by shortliner
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Yep most of the "movable" bits got glued on mine as well, i'd also got fed up with them falling apart! :)

 

 

Most scrap yards I've seen use the orange peel style one, or magnets. There's an interesting set of comments on them here: http://forums.dhsdiecast.com/default.aspx?g=posts&m=1171926

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Well the boards are now fully built, just waiting on a few longer M6 bolts and the M8 bolts for the end legs, but I have enough bolts to put it all together for a test run.

 

Please ignore the mess on the patio..  :resent:

 

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Edited by squeaky
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I have setup the boards in the dining room and i'm now using the peco templates to play around with track layout.

 

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The problem with the current plan is that the switches on the middle board are overlapping the joins between boards as the boards are 900mm long.

 

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So I have changed a couple of switches and compressed the middle section so that 7 out of the 8 switches are all on the middle board, the 8th switch is on the right hand board. I have also reversed the right hand most switch so that there are now 3 unloding spurs for scrap cars.

 

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I have now received the M8 bolts for the end leg attachment, the bolts make the end panel completely flush for attaching to the next module.

 

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On the inside I have used a 30mm washer and wing nut to secure it. It really could do with a 40mm washer as the hole in the leg is 25mm, although it seems pretty secure.

 

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I have also filled in the gap between the corner ends to stop the leg being squashed when clamped to the next module.

 

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I have also been playing around with the layout design and Dutch_Master you are correct and ideally I wouldn't have the switches so close to the board end, however the design calls for 4 switches end to end to fit in a 900mm board, so I don't have much choice. I have made a couple of changes and this the 9th version of the plan!

 

I have made the 3 freight car spurs at least 23 inches long which should allow 3 freight cars in each if needed.

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I have decided to hold off on a 45 tonner for now and I will use my trusty MP15 as the site switcher.

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Hope you are all not getting too board with changes.

Edited by squeaky
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Some recent progress on the layout.

 

 

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I have used 3mm cork under the main double track.

 

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I have used a small amout of 1.5mm cork to provide the gradient down to the rest of the track which will have no under lay at all!

 

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There is quite a slope from the main line to the yard tracks but it doesn't affect the running of the wagons.

 

The next job is to drill the holes for the servo point actuators and start soldering the drop wires.

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I have made a start on the drop wires and all the holes for the servo point actuators are drilled.

 

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I have also been looking at the cross board joints that need some delicate cutting!

 

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Much more work to do before September.....

 

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  • 1 month later...

I have been busy on the layout, getting it ready for the Freemo event.

 

I have finished all of the track cutting, soldering of pcb end sleepers and glued all the track down.

 

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I have now started the wiring on the right hand board, this board is the second easiest to wire as it only has one switch to wire and setup the motor. I'm using a Tam Valley Octopus III to control all the servo switch motors. There will be one push button each side of the layout when finished.

 

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The next board is the middle board, this board has 7 switches on it so it's going to be a challenge to keep the wiring neat!

 

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I have now wired the left hand board, that was the easy one as it has no switches.

 

Then I started on the middle board..........

 

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I have mounted and wired all 7 servos for the switches and soldered all the drop wires for the DCC bus. I now have to cut 7 x 35mm holes in each side of the board to accomodate the Tam Valley remote buttons.

 

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Here is the Octopus III mounted, I have removed the DCC module for now as I will be using the remote push buttons for now.

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I'm going to tidy all the wires once I've fitted all the push button switches.

 

I've decided not to use the Tam Valley push buttons with LEDs and opt for the simpler approach of a push to make switch.

 

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I wasn't comfortable with drilling 35mm holes for the switch plates in 5mm ply, in fear of it weakening the baseboard too much.

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