Graham Walters Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I'm trying to wire up a DPDT switch to operate seep PM1 point motors, with indicator led's in the circuit. Problem is I can't get it to work at all Here is a diagram of where I've got to The LED's are soldered long legs together, I'm not sure if there is a right or wrong way of routing the resistor, even so the LED's are not illuminating, and the motor isn't switching. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holgate Junction Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Graham, To qualify what I am about to say I want you to know I am not an expert on circuits and have learnt a lot about this from Brian Lamberts very useful site. Take a look here :- http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html#Motor Firstly you appear to need a short burst current running in one or other of A or B for the SEEP motor. You should therefore have a momentary (or sprung to centre off) switch for the motors. Secondly you appear to need current running in one or other of A or B for the LEDs to light but this conflicts with the motor's temporary current need. Therefore the basic constant current requirement to light one or other LED suggests you should have a parallel circuit probably switched using a reed switch or similar and not the DPDT. I have purchased commercial kits to make these that included their own CDU and are transistor controlled. Somebody else will hopefully provide you with a more comprehensive answer of how to get the solution you want in the easiest way. Matthew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Walters Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Graham, To qualify what I am about to say I want you to know I am not an expert on circuits and have learnt a lot about this from Brian Lamberts very useful site. Take a look here :- http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html#Motor Firstly you appear to need a short burst current running in one or other of A or B for the SEEP motor. You should therefore have a momentary (or sprung to centre off) switch for the motors. Secondly you appear to need current running in one or other of A or B for the LEDs to light but this conflicts with the motor's temporary current need. Therefore the basic constant current requirement to light one or other LED suggests you should have a parallel circuit probably switched using a reed switch or similar and not the DPDT. I have purchased commercial kits to make these that included their own CDU and are transistor controlled. Somebody else will hopefully provide you with a more comprehensive answer of how to get the solution you want in the easiest way. Matthew This seems to be the root of the problem then, using an on/on DPDT switch is wrong... ( anyone want 9 DPDT sub miniature switches) ! You seem to have provided the right answer ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
73c Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Sorry Graham, need to amend that diagram I sent you. The led's need their own constant supply Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Walters Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 I've finally got the motor working, as is always when you nothing about some thing, it takes a bit of trial/error/patience and tips from other people to get things working. I didn't know that a CDU had to wired up correctly polarity wise,.... I do now I didn't know that due to the above you had to wire up the switch polarity correct... I do now So I now know how to wire up a seep point motor: Don't use DPDT switches, use SPST switches, it's a much simpler job. Make sure you are watching the right video on Youtube, watching the wrong one can result in threads like this ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold SHMD Posted April 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 25, 2015 Glad to hear that you have sussed it Graham. Any chance that you can post a 'corrected' circuit diagram to help future members to benefit from your experience? Kev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LJB Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 And for the record LEDs (no apostrophe!) are usually long lead +, so if the black lead is negative the short leads need wiring together with the resistor in series to the black lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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