Flat crossing for 16.5 and 9 mm gauges

[47137]

Flat crossings for mixed standard and narrow gauge don't come up much on the forums (or in Britain for that matter, bar the Ffestiniog one) so here is a pictorial account of mine, which I have finished today with much satisfaction.

 

The biggest decision is "what rail to use" because the job will be easier (much easier) if both routes use the same rail section. I settled on code 80, as used by Peco and Roco for their NG track. This has a narrower foot than code 75, and is usefully taller than Peco code 60 (see later!). The other decision is to use a sheet of copperclad board to make the foundation. This will be hidden under the ballast. I tried using Veroboard, but it dropped to pieces during rail cutting - the rails need to be held by larger areas of copper.

 

This is the general arrangement of the location

 

Take a photo from directly above and print out full size to make a template

Draw on the rails (green lines)

Cut out some sleepers from a length of 009/HOe track (mine is Roco)

Solder the track onto a piece of copperclad board

 

Make a saw cut for the location of the first SG rail

 

 

Cut two notches in the foot of the SG rail so it will butt up against the NG rail

Widen the cut so the rail fits nicely

 

Solder the SG rail into place

 

With some care, cut the slot for the second SG rail

I aimed for the location of the flangeway, and widened the cut out in both directions

Solder in the second SG rail

Cut the rails and the copperclad to divide the unit into four electrical sections

 

Cut the rails for the flanges to pass through

 

Set up the eight outside check rails with Araldite

 

Glue a piece of plain postcard (about 10 thou thick) into the centre - this is my chosen insulator

Add the four inner check rails from a shorter rail - I used Peco code 60

 

Solder up all the visible rail joints

Make sure it works with some trains

 

Fettle the job and retest with trains

One last look before painting

 

A mate told me this would be "easy". Hmm. Two 16.5 mm gauge lines crossing would be easier, there would be more room to work in. I wouldn't contemplate doing it with crossing timbers and no copperclad sheet 

 

- Richard.

[plarailfan]

That's a lovely model you've made There's some more on the subject here if anyone is interested.http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/74729-old-track-help-ho-oo-x-hoe-oo9-crossing/ 

[Multiple identity account]

Amazing work there

[47137]

Thank you for the nice comments. I would like to add one more detail, and it is that during soldering up, the solder will flow to fill small gaps between rails. It is easy to clean up afterwards and it all probably ends up looking more precision-made than it really is. The really important thing is to keep looking along the rails to make sure they are true, and tweak them into line if necessary.

 

- Richard.

[hayfield]

Richard

 

A very nice piece of work and do like the build process you have used. Are you considering filling the isolation gaps in the crossing rails with filler ? 

[47137]

Yes. I did actually fill all four isolation gaps with the five-minute Araldite, but two of the blobs fell out during the fettling afterwards. The important thing is to trim back the epoxy when it has gone rubbery, I left it too late.

 

- Richard.

[hayfield]

Richard 

 

Try Green Squadron filler