Brian

You're very lucky! Electricity is basically a lazy item and will always flow to the path of least resistance (usually in this case the first solenoid motor coil) hence the second coil when linked coil to coil only gets a tiny amount of power, if any at all. I only offer the best advice to help stop later issues which with a solenoid is to run separate feed wires from the switch. You haven't said what Peco solenoid motors are being used? PL-10 or surface PL-11? If PL-11 these need fitting so as they are not to pulled down too much. You haven't said what wire size is being used for feeding to motor and the return? Just "All the wiring is fine" which is a bit unclear. Also to be 100% clear are the operating switches non locking sprung to center Off type (On)-Off-(On) rather than locking switches? Also worth noting is the need to wait a second or so for the CDU to fully recharge before the next switch operation takes place. 16v maximum is quite a low input voltage for a CDU. Take a look at the capacitor(s) and they should have both their microfarad rating and their DC working voltage shown on their case. This will set the maximum volts the capacitor can handle safely. Over this you risk them exploding! Is this the CDU you're using and mentioned at the beginning Link to CDU If the image is correct, the four capacitors are rated at 35 volts DC so well withing the proposed 19 to 22 volts DC. If you have a 19 to 22 volt Power Supply (As I suggested a former laptop brick style Power supply is ideal). You can always try this without the CDU in circuit and the current output of the power supply at usually around 3 to 4 Amps should move a solenoid motor easily. 😀 Of interest, a CDU has to convert an AC input to DC to store the charge in the capacitor(s). If the input is an AC supply, then the capacitors will charge to the Peak AC value of the supply. This is 1.4 times the RMS voltage (RMS is the one usually quoted for an AC supply) so if the supply provided 16v AC (RMS) the capacitors would charge to around 22 volts DC minus a little bit for the rectification diodes in circuit. Hence a higher DC input voltage can normally be used i.e. 19 to 22 v DC.

Are you able to power the CDU from another source? A 19 to 21 volt DC laptop power brick would be ideal as a test supply. Or use 16v AC (uncontrolled AC outlet on a train controller) Also is all the wiring CDU output to the switches, switch to its motor and the return in a suitably large wire size? I recommend the minimum to be 16/0.2mm equipment wire. Do not connect two solenoid motors together (in parallel) linking from first motor to second as the first will "Grab" all the power. Best is to run wires from the switch position to each motor and try to keep the wires all to roughly the same length, use a terminal block near the switch if need be to allow extra connection room for these added wires.

Can you explain ideally with a drawing if possible as to how do you use Latching Relays with Servos?

There is an ESU Switch Pilot Extension unit that plugs into the Switch Pilot Servo and the extension unit offers outputs that can feed panel LEDs or frog switching etc Example Extension

Hi For the point motors common return consider using 32/0.2mm wire which is roughly equal to 1.0mm2 or 17AWG. This larger size will ensure two or more solenoid motors can move together i.e. a cross-over pair of points. This common motor return connects to the CDUs Output negative terminal. All the motors returns join onto this one wire. Positive CDU Output going to all the point switches middle tabs. For the two feeds to each point motor from the switches outer tabs consider using 16/0.2mm which is roughly equal to 0.5mm2 or 20AWG. Where two motors move together, I recommend taking each motors two feed (operation) wires back to the switches tabs (or a terminal block located near the switch) rather than linking from one motor to the other, as if linked the first motor tends to "grab" all the power and the second one is left with little or no power if they are wired in parallel motor to motor. Try to keep the four wires (two to each motor) as near as equal length as practical. There is some guidance on my web site which may help for solenoid wiring. Just scroll through the whole section. Link to item 😄

Many decoders are reset to manufacturers default settings by entering CV8 and then a value of 8. Check the decoder manual paper version or go online and it will tell you more details. Generally.... Place the loco onto the Programming track and select on the PA the Prog button and select the Prog track option and press Enter, scroll though the options by pressing Enter until CV appears. Now enter 8 by pressing button 8 and press Enter, followed by another press of the 8 (assuming 8 and 8 are the decoder reset values). Then press enter. This should write to the decoder a reset command and the decoder should revert to as manufactured with an address number of 03. Sometimes you may have to do this more than once to gain a reset. Once completed press Enter until the display reverts to normal mode.

It is also worth checking and if needs be adjusting the problem loco(s) back to back dimensions, as if too wide can lead to the metal wheel rim being able to touch both rails at the vee crossing.

Hi This article may offer you the solution? Link to item Just scroll down a fraction. This has been mentioned above too. 😉

Pleased to read its working as designed. 😊 Yes diodes are 'one way valves' for electron flow.

How many pins has the relay got. 8 its a bidirectional latching relay. 10 pins and its a twin coil latching relay. If it has 8 it will need reverse polarity applied to pins 1 and 16 to unlatch it i.e. apply positive to pin 1 and negative to pin 16 to latch the relay. Then apply positive to pin 16 and negative to pin 1 to unlatch it. IMO a twin coil latching relay is far easier to wire into a solenoid motor circuit

This is a DCC question not a DC one, on DC separate controller feeds are often used for different tracks entering the DS. On a DCC layout using an Insulated double slip then no IRJs are needed! All that is needed for best performance is a pair of dropper wires attached to the outer stock rails of the DS.

Double sided Sticky Fixers are a simple option, as too is using a cable tie (as mentioned above) around a bracing timber or drill a hole in a timber brace to allow the tie to pass through and then around the board.

Hi The H&M Duette is suitable for Track common return. What you cannot do is connect either of the uncontrolled outputs - 12v DC and 16v AC to the common return. Reason is the Duette uses a dual wound transformer. One half of the output windings of the transformer feeds Track 1 controller and the 12v DC uncontrolled. The other half of the windings feed Track 2 controller and also the 16v AC uncontrolled. If either of the uncontrolled outputs were to be connected to the track common return it would cause a short circuit! The "Rule" of Common return is that whatever connects onto the common return wire it MUST be fed from totally separate transformer secondary windings or separate power supplies.

You will have what is known as a Reverse Loop caused by the crossover point(s). On a DCC layout this can be overcome by making a section of track isolated from the rest by fitting at least four Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJs) - 2 IRJs at each end of the isolated section and the section being longer than the longest complete train to run over the section - Train = loco and all carriages or wagons. Then the isolated section is feed form the output or a Reverse Loop module and the input to the module comes from the DCC Bus or DCC powered rails, Then the section automatically flips the rail power to match one end of the loop to the DCC powered rails. It can also be done by using a switch too. But personally, I prefer the automated loop method. A sketch of your plan would help in showing where the section could be fitted. Edit...Spelling error corrected

Asking "What is the Best currently available DCC system" is akin to asking What is the best car to buy? You will get answers from everyone that theirs or the next generation one is the Bees Knees. IMO the only way to find a system that suits you (not everyone else) is to go and try as many as possible before you part with yourhard earned. Somewhere like a MR exhibition where a DCC supplier has a stall is often a good starting place. Coastal DCC tend to have stalls at some shows (Unsure if they offer viewings at their premises though?) Digitrains and several other retailers all offer tests before you buy in store, but be a little cautious, as some retailers may well will promote the brand that they sell, which may not be the best for you!