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About this blog

A record of weathering work, intended to show both good and bad results, including explanations of what is used and how.

Entries in this blog

D3721. Step 8.

The frame dirt has now been airbrushed onto the frames as well, taking some care not to get overspray onto the body. This is not critical, but it helps to keep extra work to a minimum if I decide to spray the bodywork a significantly different shade of filth. With the locomotive upside down in the cradle, it is quite easy to ensure that the underneath of the running plate is covered. The accuracy of the airbrush also helps to keep unwanted paint off the wheel treads.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 7.

Clean wheels.   With the aforementioned battery applied to a pair of wheels, a cotton bud soaked in isopropyl alcohol has been applied to the wheel treads and the backs of the wheels. You should be able to see that all of the dried enamel paint has been completely removed from those surfaces that need to be clean for conducting electricity. Isopropyl alcohol will remove all enamel and acrylic paints from these surfaces, so you will need to take care with where you apply it.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 6.

Round to the other side of the chassis now. Same process, but you can see where the last rotation of the wheel has yet to be sprayed. Still no masking, and the small spray area resulting from coming up close has kept the overspray off of most of the frames. Turning the wheels with the battery is still keeping the backs of the wheels clear because the wiping action of the pickups is removing the still wet paint.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 5.

The first few coats of paint have been applied. Each coat consists of a pass across the chassis to apply a very light coat of paint. This only results in a very slight discolouration of the wheels, or at least those parts of the wheels that show above the frames. The wheels are then turned a quarter of a turn using the battery and the exercise is repeated.   You can see in the accompanying picture that there is still one small area on each wheel that needs to be covered. You can also s

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 4.

Getting tools prepared. As already mentioned, the airbrush to be used is an Iwata HP SB Plus, with a 0.2mm nozzle for fine control when working close up. I'll be utilising this airbrush's ability to come in close and only cover small areas at a time.   The glass dish contains clean white spirit, as does the plastic bottle to the left. The former is used during the mixing of paint to achieve the necessary consistency and the latter will be used to keep the internals of the airbrush clea

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 3.

For this project I have chosen to use Railmatch Frame Dirt on the underparts. This is not my usual colour for working on underframes, but I had some available so thought I'd give it a go. The airbrush I am using in this case is an Iwata HP SB Plus, because it gives me a great deal of control over the area to be covered for each pass along the model.   When working on the whole length of a model, whether it is the chassis, bodysides or the roof, I like to have complete control over the

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 2.

High-tech cradle in use to support upside down model while underparts are dirtied. The battery is used to turn the wheels during airbrushing, to avoid paintless shadows from the connecting rods and to get to those parts of the wheels hidden behind the frames.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

D3721. Step 1.

How it all began.   Out of the box, couplings removed but no hoses yet added to the buffer beam.  

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick

There's a first time for everything.

Exploring the blog concept with a view to maintaining a record of weathering processes, materials, tools and techniques. Entries will be sporadic and entirely dependent upon time and memory.

Mick Bonwick

Mick Bonwick


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