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How to build an inglenook layout in N gauge. Or rather how not to build one.

Entries in this blog

I like Metcalf, but I’m scared I’ll ruin them if I colour the edges in

I really like Metcalf buildings. They sometimes feel a little over scale for N, but if you’re consistent they don’t look wrong; just don’t mix them with some of the Liddle-End models that look decidedly under-scale 😊(Rye station and Hornby factory spring to mind).     But.. I can’t bring myself to colour the edges in. I know I’m not alone in this as I’ve seen many a photo showing a layout with white-edges to the otherwise normally looking buildings, but I feel I should Grow S

I’m Rubbish at Ballasting Track

I’ve avoided ballasting points since the debacle when I was 13 - I saved weeks of pocket money for that point (a left-hand Peco settrack; I can picture it now) only to ruin it nearly as soon as I’d laid it. I couldn’t tell anyone so my one siding ended up a bit of a space invader.   Because of this fear I started ballasting from the edges of this layout. With an intention of building up my skills and confidence by ballasting some straight pieces of track before tackling the points.

I’m Rubbish at Laying Track

The baseboard I bought was only 5mm ply. This means that I needed to glue and pin some 2”x1” to the underside where my track was going so that it could pin properly and not just pop-out.   Unfortunately, I’d already laid the track, fitted the Twist Lock point motors and trimmed their pins to length (more on that later) before I realised this. So I had to leave “gaps” where the point motors were, which means the actual points themselves couldn’t be pinned down or else the pins ended up


Its only a small layout, I don’t need to get complicated, so what’s going to wrong with just using Peco settrack?     Two things it turns out (1) the small-radius points (2) deadfrogs.   The small-radius points help the Easyshunts not work.   The deadfrogs cause my little shunting engine to stutter and need the occasional Finger-of-God to make them move; and as this is “N” gauge the FoG needs to be accurately applied or you poke the engine over onto its si


I decided to use Dapol Easyshunt couplings; the clue was in the name. Obviously, this meant I spent the next few weeks butchering/converting eight Peco/Dapol/GF wagons to nem couplings and fitting the Easyshunts.   I looked at the Inglenook diagram and decided I’d only want one point at which to uncouple, at the top of the “first” point; that way I could pull wagons back to there, uncouple and delayed-uncouple the wagons I didn’t want back into their siding.   Nope. I could g

Rolling Stock - Not exactly prototypical

I have Private owner wagons from the 40s; an 04 early-crest shunter from the 50s and a Nun from the 60s.     I wanted a small shunter and the 04 had just come out screaming “cute”. I do have a Dapol Terrier but it’s not well and doesn’t like going forwards or backwards, so I’m waiting for a new batch of those before I pick up another one -second-hand wasn’t the way to go there ☹     Rather than painting numbers on a set of 16t mineral wagons, I wanted to b

Introduction - Whither IngleNook?

I wanted to build a small layout that I could be “happy” with. Something that would be interesting to “play with” and interesting to look at and interesting to build. Something small that I could take from room to room without doing my back in again.   I decided a “N” gauge Inglenook sounded nice. My “N” gauge stuff to date has been Kato Unitrack laid out on a spare table as and when I get the chance. Unitrack points are fairly large and putting a few lengths of track together it still
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