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2. Opening the box...


Skinnylinny

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So, having sat down and opened the box, I checked to make sure all the parts were there. Easy enough in the Peco kit - the exploded diagram and parts list corresponded to all those big grey lumps of metal. Having a basic knowledge of steam locos, I had no trouble here. The Branchlines chassis kit was rather more fun. The parts list in the instructions included such joys as "Etched nickel silver fret of most parts (1)". In fairness, everything else is listed fairly clearly and has been packed into small resealable bags in an organised way, such as wheels and axles and crankpins and associated nuts being in one bag. I should really have taken a picture of the various bits in the kit before I started, but having got up the courage to start, I dived in.

 

Starting out, I managed to get the main frames off the etch, remove the etched representations of the springs (as mentioned in the instructions, if I wanted a full footplate on the body) and fold it into something vaguely box-shaped. Out came the soldering iron, away went the swear box, and construction commenced.

 

So far, I have a basic brass box with some spacers. Not too shabby, thinks I. Best to check it's square, though, so I popped the included bearings into the etched holes in the chassis, reached for an axle and... oh. The axle doesn't fit through the bearing. Hum. Not that the chassis isn't square, it won't even go through the first one. I decided to try the axle through just the chassis, and no surprise, it's a fairly sloppy fit. Not even at the end of step 3 of 23 and I've hit my first hurdle.

 

The axles are 1/8" steel, and the driving wheels are described as "specially commissioned, black plated, steel tyred, wheels of the correct pattern" which is all well and good, but doesn't tell me much about why the 1/8" axles won't fit through the 1/8" bearings. Incidentally, there are two types of bearings included (both for use with the 1/8" axles) - described as "long brass "top hat" bearings" and "short brass "straw-hat" bearings". The axles will happily pass through the long bearings, but not the short ones. Could anyone offer ideas or advice on why this might be, and how I could go about remedying this? Incidentally, while I'm asking, apparently the long bearings will need shortening at a later stage and I have no idea how to go about this - the instructions assume you'll know how! So it looks like I'm signing off for tonight. I'll post a picture showing where I've got to in the morning - the light here is no good for photography sadly.

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Welcome to the delights of metal kit building. Funny how most of us start off expecting instructions to be intelligeable, but we soon learn...

 

Fitting the axles will give you an indication if the chassis is not square, but they're really to short to check whether it really is square. A simple way of doing this is to use lengths of 1/8" silver steel -- you can buy it lengths of about 13" which are ideal. Pass them through the axle holes and it is fairly easy to check visually (or even with the aid of square and or steel ruler) if all is well.

 

First, however, you need to get them through the bearings. Most bearings need a bit of work to get the ideal clearance. To get the correct size holes in the bearings you'll need a 1/8" parallel reamer. Eileens's Emporium and others can supply these. Some will say you can get away with using a drill bit, but it is not good practice and there's no guarantee you'll end up with the correct size. Use the reamer after soldering the bearings into the frames.

 

As to shortening a top hat, this is often necessary so that a gearbox will fit between the frames. The simplest way to do it is to solder the bearings into the frames first, then file them down to suit. You'll need the reamer again to clean up the hole after filing.

 

Nick

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Thanks, Nick. I guess I'm a little confused as to why the instructions say to fit the shorter bearings to the front axle, then the long ones to the rear axle (which has the gearbox) - would it not be easier to swap them over? Thank you for the advice about the reamer - it looks like I now have an excuse to order from Eileen's! Anything else you'd suggest I get while I'm there? Turned brass seems like a very hard material to be working by hand...

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It may well be that fitting the long bearings at the gearbox end is either to stop the gearbox moving side to side in the frames or that it sits on them aswell.

As Nick says you must use a reamer or the axles will wear the bearings out quickly.

Photos are also really helpful when wanting advise because it is so much easy for those wanting to help.

I know that you said you would post later.

Also welcome to the frustrations of building kits.

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Sadly, as always seems to be the case, the camera's gone walkabouts and is nowhere to be seen, and my phone camera is totally useless when it comes to taking photos of tiny shiny pieces of metal... I'll do my best to get the photo up when I can.

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