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Three in a row...


Chrislock

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Well I'm trying to complete a bit each night on the Ratio 2-4-0.

 

I heard on another thread that these kits did not have a great reputation for running well, so it was with trepidation I set off on building the chassis tonight.

Again, it has been a relatively easy buildso far, although most holes needed to be opened out slightly to accomodate the bearings and axles, and I have yet to fit the gearbox and motor..

However, no soldering was required, though I did add a dab where the pick up wires attached to the brass outer frames.

A faux pas I made yesterday was thinking that the second lead weight was for the tender - it suddenly dawned on me that it was designed to sit low between the main frames of the engine! Fortunately, I had not glued down the tender top, so was able to retrieve, file and fit it to the chassis.

Needing another weight for the tender, I suddenly remembered the remains of an N gauge Union Mills tender

body which I had part butchered some time ago. Glued in the front end of the tender, this adds a perfect and very appropriate weight beneath the now attached tender top. Real coal may be an option for another time methinks.

Since epoxying the lead weight into the loco chassis it doesn't seem to roll as freely. I suspect that the frames may have been unintentionally moved by the width of the lead against them, squeezing in on the muff, so I need to remedy this before adding the motor.

Offered up to the body this is what it looks like so far.

Purists would no doubt say I should have blacked the wheels and chassis before assembly, but I am happy to black it once I know its all working.

 

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Finally, my Ratio coaches were waiting for me when I got home today, and a brief look suggests while they are more complex than the brake, they shouldn't be too taxing for me.

 

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Regards,

Chris

 

Morning update.

As I was on something of a roll, I worked on the chassis last night to complete it. Adding the motor etc was not a difficult task and the wiring simplicity itself; especially compared to working it all out for yourself on your own designs.

 

A quick test on the a piece of track and it ran - a bit grungy, but after oiling and a few trips up and down it sounded a bit looser, but I will have a look at the meshing when I get back from work - it is designed to be correct when the motor is in position, but as we know it only takes a fraction of a millimetre to make that difference.

Pleased though it all works, and here is the loco assembled with tender for the very first time.

My it looks sooo good...

 

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Keen observers will notice the broken tender brake but this has now been repaired - unfortunately after the photoshoot!

 

Chris

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It is not clear to me why you would add ballast to the tender, unless it has some bearing on how the locomotive sits or balances on the rails or is a tender drive? In the latter case why would you ballast the locomotive so heavily?

 

Check the sides of the coach kits are the same length before you start building. I've seen a few of the ratio kits (I think they were the ex-LNWR coaches) that had one side longer than the other. I believe the problem was rectified some time ago but you don't know how old the kits you've got are when buying 'pre-loved'.

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Hi Rich.

I was just following instructions is the answer to the weighting question.

The lead weight sits between the drivers in the loco, and over the front of the tender - would it be a balance thing? Certainly the weight is over the driving wheels and tender connection.

I have to say though that the leading wheels are sprung, and only just rest on the track, so it might be an idea to remove the loco weight and reduce it slightly?

Thanks for the tip on the coach sides that's worth knowing!

Chris

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Just measured the lengths of the coaches and they are the same for both models.

Having looked at the instructions there is quite a lot more to them than I had at first thought, but nothing which is un-do-able.

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