I guess I've reached two fairly major mileposts with 'Jutland'. Firstly I've attached the last of the whitemetal bits of the kit. The eight footsteps were glued in place this morning. Secondly the locomotive has now been given its formal identication and lined out. I used etched brass nameplates from the Modelmaster range (I've been a very happy customer of theirs for most of my named loco projects), applied using a very sparing dab of UHU touched on the back of the 'plate.

When it came to lining, I used HMRS pressfix transfers. I'm in the habit however of drenching them with water before application. Effectively this means I use them much like a waterslide decal- once placed on the model I move them around with a pair of tweezers until I'm happy with their location and then use blotting paper to remove the excess water.

I used the loco numbering sheet from the same source, however with these I've finally acquired the knack of being able to press them in position. I saturate the backing paper first though so I can check up on their location before pressing down. This didn't quite work today, in that when starting the number off (I always start with the middle of the number- hence for '5504' I started with the '0') I misplaced the number on both sides by about 3mm- so on one side it was biased toward the cab and on the other toward the back of the tender (modelling the pre-1928 LNER scene I use small 'LNER' insignia on the tender with the loco number in 12'' numbers below it). I found however that by dropping a couple of brushfuls of water onto the offending decal, and then very gently and patiently working at it with a scalpel blade, I was able to lift it. It lost all of its adhesive in the process; but I was able to move it to the right place without the frustration of having to try and scratch/rub it off the model or use more of the decal sheet.

I was then able to seal the model using diluted PVA. I use this because it drys to a flat matt finish, it evens out the paintwork a little (areas which may be striated or where brushstrokes are visible tend to be less noticeable afterward) and because it's what I have to hand, and it's fairly cheap. Also being waterbased and non-toxic helps avoid the 'what is that smell?' 'it's irritating me' 'why are you doing that in here' sort of comment... which is useful, being a tabletop modeller.

The jobs still left to complete the model really run to

- handrails

- footplate lining

- brass around front spectacles

- timber around side windows

- window glazing

- cab interior painting

- crushed coal in tender

- weathering

Most of which are 5-minute jobs I can do just so soon as the model has dried out.