Phil -

Check out my various blogs/posts about building construction.  If you have access to a computer with a DTP or CAD program, you can design your own windows including an aperture template.  Printed on adhesive paper, the templates can be cut out, stuck to the plasticard and then cut out.  It's quite possible to do the lintel arches 'freehand' using this method.  The together advantage is that all the apertures are identical dimension-wise...

I'd also question thewisdom of using 40 thou faced with embossed styrene.  I think you will find that the solvent sets up tension stress in the two materials and the result will be distortion.  I personally make up the main wall using layered 20 thou. A 'front sheet' - which has 20 thou spacers, separating a 'back' sheet also in 20 thou.  Once all the apertures are cut, the embossed plasticard can be attached and the apertures cut through.  For a better description see my 'Emsford Mill' forum entry.

Regs

Ian

This site gives some interesting insights into building elaborate buildings in plasticard

http://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=73945

It is in German, but well illustrated with photos

I lurk on Buntbahn regularly for inspiration but had not seen that thread. Thanks for posting the link!

Phil -

 

Check out my various blogs/posts about building construction.  If you have access to a computer with a DTP or CAD program, you can design your own windows including an aperture template.  Printed on adhesive paper, the templates can be cut out, stuck to the plasticard and then cut out.  It's quite possible to do the lintel arches 'freehand' using this method.  The together advantage is that all the apertures are identical dimension-wise...

 

I'd also question thewisdom of using 40 thou faced with embossed styrene.  I think you will find that the solvent sets up tension stress in the two materials and the result will be distortion.  I personally make up the main wall using layered 20 thou. A 'front sheet' - which has 20 thou spacers, separating a 'back' sheet also in 20 thou.  Once all the apertures are cut, the embossed plasticard can be attached and the apertures cut through.  For a better description see my 'Emsford Mill' forum entry.

 

Regs

 

Ian

Yes, I had my doubts about the best choice for the main walls, principally because there are two curved walls.  If it turns out that my experiment doesn't work, then I will ahve learned something.  What I intend to do is bend the curved walls to the right radius using hot water and a suitable former.  Then bend the embossed layer to the same radius, then tack the embossed layer in place temporarily and use the holes in the 40 thou to mark the apertures in the embossed layer.  Then I'll remove the embossed layer, cut the apertures roughly, stick the layers together properly and fettle the brickwork edges.  Watch this space, it may well go very pear shaped!

This site gives some interesting insights into building elaborate buildings in plasticard

 

http://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=73945

 

It is in German, but well illustrated with photos

Very useful, thanks a lot.  All input gratefully received.