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Baseboards and a name for my project!


wenlock

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I've finished painting and lining my Dean Goods, but it needs a final coat of satin varnish and some number plates before its ready for viewing on the blog. While I've been waiting for the various coats of paint to dry, I've made a start on building the baseboards for my proposed Edwardian, GWR, branch line terminus. As a reminder of what I'm trying to build, here's a picture of my 1/7th scale foam and cardboard mock up.

 

Mock up

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The layout will fit along one wall of my workshop and comprise of four sections, giving a total length including fiddle yard of 5240 millimetres, or 17 feet 2 inches in good old imperial! Originally the layout was going to be 1370mm (4 feet 6 inches) deep, but I've reduced this to 1220mm (4 feet), which is more manageable when trying to reach the back of the layout. I know there is a vogue for building baseboards from foam board, but I've decided to stick with the method that I have used on previous layouts and that I know I can make successfully. I first came across the technique in Barry Norman's excellent "Landscape Modelling" book, which I must have bought at least 20 years ago. The book describes a method for making layout supporting beams, which resist distortion by having one component of the beam in tension, the other in compression and both held apart by softwood blocks. The resultant beams are also considerably lighter than similar size ones made from sawn timber.

 

The four boards were built as pairs, one pair 1220mm long and one pair 1400mm, giving the required total length of 5240mm. The scenic part of the layout would be made up from both 1220 mm long boards, along with one of the 1400mm boards. The remaining 1400 board will be for the off stage fiddle yard/revolving train turntable.

 

To make the components needed to build the beams, two sheets of 6mm MDF were cut using a table saw into 98mm wide strips. Lengths of 98mm x 18mm softwood were cut into 98mm squares using a circular chop saw. Obviously it would be possible to cut these pieces using a handsaw, but I'm lucky in having a Father in Law who has a workshop equipped with just about every power tool known to man and it seemed daft not to use them!

 

MDF being cut into 98mm strips

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98mm x 18mm softwood being cut into blocks

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Finished beam components, ready for assembly

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Construction of the beams began by fixing the softwood blocks to the MDF strip using screws and PVA glue. One of the benefits of making the beams in this manner is that the softwood blocks can be rotated through 90 degrees to each other. This ensures that when the beams are joined together to make the framework, you can always screw into side grain rather than end grain.

 

Softwood blocks screwed and glued to MDF strip

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Once the glue had set, the second MDF strip was glued and screwed in position, and again allowed to dry.

 

Second MDF strip in position

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This process was continued until all the beams had been fabricated.

 

Completed Beams

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In order to ensure that the finished baseboards would align together accurately, I decided to use brass pattern makers dowels. I ordered these from stationroadbaseboards.co.uk along with some hole cutting drill bits. Ive not used this supplier before, but the parts arrived within a couple of days as specified, so I'll be using them again.

 

The end beams were marked as pairs and the male part of the pattern makers dowels was fitted into one beam by carefully drilling a 25 mm diameter recess, then screwing into position.

 

Dowel in position

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The female part of the pattern makers dowel needed fitting into the other beam in exactly the right position, if the pair of beams was going to align together accurately. With this in mind I had to come up with a way of marking the position of the male dowel on the female dowel carrying beam. I needed something that I could apply to the end of the male dowel, that would transfer across to the female beam and clearly mark the wood when the beams were pressed together. I tried pencil and chalk, but the mark wasn't clear enough to dill accurately, so more pondering took place! In the end inspiration struck in the form of lipstick! Armed with some of Mrs Wenlock's best red lippy, I marked the ends of the dowels and pressed the beams together. Once the beams were pulled apart, a perfect red dot was marked on the opposing beam and drilling could commence. From now on, no modelling box should be deemed to be complete without a stick of said lipstick!

 

Lipstick on brass dowel

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Lipstick marks the spot!

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Once the pattern makers dowels had been successfully fitted into the end beams, they were numbered as pairs and their top surface sanded to ensure that once the baseboard tops were fitted, they would be exactly the same height.

 

The frameworks were then assembled from the beams, ensuring they were square before gluing and screwing them into position. 9mm MDF was used to form the baseboard tops, these once cut to size, were glued and screwed into position

 

1st completed baseboard

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The subsequent boards were assembled in a similar fashion, but plastic bin liner was used as a barrier between the boards to prevent them sticking together.

 

2nd board under construction

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Once the three boards that make up the "visible" portion of the layout were completed, the wallpaper layout plan was put into position to check the dimensions. The front of the layout will be on a gentle convex curve, so after marking out, this was carefully cut using a jigsaw.

 

3rd board and layout plan

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The framework for the off stage part of the layout was then made, but I still need to construct the revolving train turntable.

 

Board 4, fiddle yard

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Off stage board

 

Legs were made from lengths of 38mm softwood, bolted to the baseboard framework. I'm not sure how high to make the finished layout, the legs may end up being trimmed. At present the baseboard tops are 4 foot 9 inches from the floor, which is fine if you happen to be 6 foot 4 like me, but not ideal if you happen to be 5 foot 2! I'd be interested to hear opinions on what people think is an ideal height for viewing 0 gauge layouts.

 

Layout on it's legs.

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I need a name for this project of mine, I can't just keep calling it "My proposed GWR, Edwardian, branch line terminus" for much longer! I remember Mikkel suggesting using place names from literature, which seems like a good idea. Trollope's Barsetshire has a number of likely sounding place names, I'm quite taken with calling the layout "Uffley" or possibly "Lower Uffley" which I think has a nice ring!

 

As always I'm interested in your views and comments.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Even with 9mm tops, I'm surprised you haven't put in a mid-frame support for that kind of board length.

 

On baseboard height, I'm all in favour of high layouts, so applaud your 57". There's only one problem with that kind of height though, and that's working on it, especially for a layout that deep.
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Even with 9mm tops, I'm surprised you haven't put in a mid-frame support for that kind of board length.

 

On baseboard height, I'm all in favour of high layouts, so applaud your 57". There's only one problem with that kind of height though, and that's working on it, especially for a layout that deep.

Hi Miss P, you're quite right about the support needed in the middle of the boards. I should have mentioned what I was planning to do in the blog. I've cut some single skin beams from the MDF that are the same length as the board width and I plan to use these for intermediate support. I don't want to glue them in position yet until I've marked from the plan exactly where the toe of each point lies. I've been caught before on previous layouts where a beam is exactly below where a point motor needs to go. I'm doing my best to ensure it doesn't happen again!

 

I think you may be right about working on boards that are nearly five foot high. Even if my back survives track laying, I'll be doing the scenic side with the boards perched on a much lower table top!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Dave's seen my 4mm layout so he knows how high it is - trackwork at eye level for me (6') and nicely below eye level for the towering Wenlock. The deepest part of the boards is 3' and that's been a challenge to work on, but it's all been doable with a bit of stretching and some perilous use of the folding steps, as well as very long paint brushes and so on.

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Great stuff!  I must add red lipstick to my toolbox ASAP - I always like learning tricks like this and I'm sure it's more effective than the soft pencil I used to use.  After all, isn't the main purpose of the stuff to leave incriminating marks?!!

 

I'd love to suggest a name but I'm in the same situation myself so, when I have a bright idea, I shall claim it first :)  As a hint, look around for all those branches that were never built!

 

Mike

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Dave's seen my 4mm layout so he knows how high it is - trackwork at eye level for me (6') and nicely below eye level for the towering Wenlock. The deepest part of the boards is 3' and that's been a challenge to work on, but it's all been doable with a bit of stretching and some perilous use of the folding steps, as well as very long paint brushes and so on.

It was seeing your layout Al that convinced me that high baseboards are the way to go! Sounds like I'd better invest in some extra long paint brushes.

Hope to catch up again soon.

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Great stuff!  I must add red lipstick to my toolbox ASAP - I always like learning tricks like this and I'm sure it's more effective than the soft pencil I used to use.  After all, isn't the main purpose of the stuff to leave incriminating marks?!!

 

I'd love to suggest a name but I'm in the same situation myself so, when I have a bright idea, I shall claim it first :)  As a hint, look around for all those branches that were never built!

 

Mike

Glad you liked the lipstick tip Mike, the cheaper and stickier the better seems to the way to go!

 

Layout names are always tricky, I'm hoping inspiration will strike!

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I used Barry Norman's beam idea some time ago but found the baseboard could still twist. I now find that diagonal bracing keeps it flat without the need for strong sides.

Four ft deep boards will need some stretching over. In the US they make special things to reach over deep layouts. The main thing with height is what suits you and the ability to see things a narrow baseboard can be higher than a wide one simply because you can see it all.

Like the project though.

Don

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I want your father in law and your lipstick. Oh wait, that came out wrong.

 

Congratulations on getting this far with the baseboards, Dave. Must be a bit of a milestone, after all the planning. As ever it all looks very neat and well built.

 

I cannot possibly judge "Uffley" as a layout name, since in Danish it sounds like an expression of disgust! So I will leave that to others, but it is certainly a catchy name, I think!

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I used Barry Norman's beam idea some time ago but found the baseboard could still twist. I now find that diagonal bracing keeps it flat without the need for strong sides.

Four ft deep boards will need some stretching over. In the US they make special things to reach over deep layouts. The main thing with height is what suits you and the ability to see things a narrow baseboard can be higher than a wide one simply because you can see it all.

Like the project though.

Don

Hi Don, glad you like the project! Although Ive got long arms, I'm intrigued by "the special things built in the US to reach over deep layouts" Have you got any pictures or diagrams to hand of such a beastie!

 

Dave

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I want your father in law and your lipstick. Oh wait, that came out wrong.

 

Congratulations on getting this far with the baseboards, Dave. Must be a bit of a milestone, after all the planning. As ever it all looks very neat and well built.

 

I cannot possibly judge "Uffley" as a layout name, since in Danish it sounds like an expression of disgust! So I will leave that to others, but it is certainly a catchy name, I think!

Hi Mikkel, I'm afraid the only way to get access to my father in laws work shop and Mrs W's lipstick is to marry her! Lovely as she is, I'm sure you would find as I did that she's a very expensive luxury. I think on balance it would be cheaper to build yourself a fully equiped workshop and pop down the local chemist to get a lipstick!

 

As you say, It's good to have something tangible to look at after all the planning.

 

I hadn't considered "Uffley" meaning or sounding something different in another language, I still like the sound of it though!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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Beautiful, beautiful woodwork, Wenlock. This is the part I dread, but know that the whole success of a layout rests in the how the baseboards are built. I just wish I had the patience to be so neat and precise. Brilliant workmanship.

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Beautiful, beautiful woodwork, Wenlock. This is the part I dread, but know that the whole success of a layout rests in the how the baseboards are built. I just wish I had the patience to be so neat and precise. Brilliant workmanship.

Thanks Paternoster! Although I think the final baseboard result is more down to having access to the right tools for the job, rather than my skills as a carpenter!

 

Dave

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I'm with Dave on this, getting sound-straight solid baseboards is a skill to be learnt by many myself included, and this step-by-step is useful... I know it'd been shown before but not in quite so fine a format... well illustrated too. Very useful, thanks

Jon

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Hi Mikkel, I'm afraid the only way to get access to my father in laws work shop and Mrs W's lipstick is to marry her! Lovely as she is, I'm sure you would find as I did that she's a very expensive luxury. I think on balance it would be cheaper to build yourself a fully equiped workshop and pop down the local chemist to get a lipstick!

 

Hmm, I see that I shall have to plan this carefully. Perhaps I could assume your identity just long enough to use the workshop, grab the lipstick and operate your superb stock for a couple of hours :-)

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Dave,

 

Really sturdy looking baseboards.  I dread to think how heavy they are though!! (or will be once complete).  I envy your work room if it can accommodate what is a large layout, I got my son to help me mix and lay 2 and a half tons of concrete for my "man shed" last week, I'm going for something 10'6" long which should allow my proposed 2mm layout to fit quite nicely down one side.

 

I look forward to seeing the Dean Goods in all her glory!  Which reminds me to chase up some 2mm number plates for my saddle tank :-)

 

Regards,

 

Ian

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Hi Ian, yep the boards are a bit on the heavy side! Once the track is layed I'm planning on cutting around the track bed and removing as much 9mm MDF as I can. I've got an 8 foot by 4 foot sheet of 2 inch thick polystyrene foam that I'm going to use to buid up the land contours. My train room is a "work in progress", Ive spent a fair chunk of the summer puting up a stud partition, plaster boarding and flooring in my room. It still needs painting and a laminate floor, but I'm going to sort that out once the structural part of the layout is finished. Ive ended up with a space 18 foot by 10, so I consider myself very fortunate!

 

I'm glad you had help mixing the concrete for your shed, 10'6" should give you plenty of space for a 2mm layout. To do my plan in 2mm you would only need a shed about 5'6" long!

 

Once I get the Number/works/tenderplates that Ive commisioned from severnmillnameplates I'll post up some pics of the Dean Goods. If I do say it myself number 2467 is something I'm very pleasaed with!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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I'm with Dave on this, getting sound-straight solid baseboards is a skill to be learnt by many myself included, and this step-by-step is useful... I know it'd been shown before but not in quite so fine a format... well illustrated too. Very useful, thanks

Jon

Thanks Jon, glad you found it useful!

 

Dave

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Hi Dave,

I've used the open beam idea before, but with 6mm ply and on a much smaller scale. Like Don, I reckon you'll need more bracing. Mine ended up with a grid of beams on about a 15" interval, though that was probably overkill.

 

As to the name, I'm not sure about Uffley though it sounds to me like a cross between Uffington in the Vale of the White Horse (Oxfordshire, but formerly Berkshire) and Ubley in the Chew Valley in Somerset. Ubley is next to the wonderfully named Nempnett Thrubwell as visitors to Didcot may know. I wonder what they sound like in Danish? Given that there was once a proposal to join the Cheddar Line at Congresbury to Farrington Gurney on the Bristol & North Somerset, and a later one to join the Wrington Vale Light Railway at Blagdon to the B & NS at Pensford, the Chew Valley has always struck me as good site for an imaginary location (I'm also biased because it's near my origins). Plenty of coal and milk traffic and, had it been built a little earlier than proposed, might well have been another with William Clarke buildings.

 

Nick

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Nice clean woodwork Dave. Looking forward to watching your layout progress, I paticularly like the 1/7th scale mockup idea, something I could be getting on with while all my machines  (father in law comes to me with all his projects) reside in what is to be the dream layout building.

 

Regards Shaun.

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Hi Dave,

I've used the open beam idea before, but with 6mm ply and on a much smaller scale. Like Don, I reckon you'll need more bracing. Mine ended up with a grid of beams on about a 15" interval, though that was probably overkill.

 

As to the name, I'm not sure about Uffley though it sounds to me like a cross between Uffington in the Vale of the White Horse (Oxfordshire, but formerly Berkshire) and Ubley in the Chew Valley in Somerset. Ubley is next to the wonderfully named Nempnett Thrubwell as visitors to Didcot may know. I wonder what they sound like in Danish? Given that there was once a proposal to join the Cheddar Line at Congresbury to Farrington Gurney on the Bristol & North Somerset, and a later one to join the Wrington Vale Light Railway at Blagdon to the B & NS at Pensford, the Chew Valley has always struck me as good site for an imaginary location (I'm also biased because it's near my origins). Plenty of coal and milk traffic and, had it been built a little earlier than proposed, might well have been another with William Clarke buildings.

 

Nick

Hi Nick, I've had a look on google earth and as you say the Chew Valley looks very promising as a location for a fictitious scheme. I had a quick look around the area on street view and most of the buildings appear to be built from stone. My station building is in red brick, I'm not sure it would be approriate in that part of the U.K. I guess what I really need is a fictitious line running through an area with buildings constructed from red brick and terminating at my station! Any suggestions gratefully received.

 

Dave

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Nice clean woodwork Dave. Looking forward to watching your layout progress, I paticularly like the 1/7th scale mockup idea, something I could be getting on with while all my machines  (father in law comes to me with all his projects) reside in what is to be the dream layout building.

 

Regards Shaun.

Thanks Shaun, glad you like the progress so far! Barry Normans book "designing a layout" has some nice 7th scale track and point templates that can be photocopied and used when building the mock up layout. I must admit I really enjoyed that part of the design process.

 

Dave

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Hi Nick, I've had a look on google earth and as you say the Chew Valley looks very promising as a location for a fictitious scheme. I had a quick look around the area on street view and most of the buildings appear to be built from stone. My station building is in red brick, I'm not sure it would be approriate in that part of the U.K. I guess what I really need is a fictitious line running through an area with buildings constructed from red brick and terminating at my station! Any suggestions gratefully received.

Hi Dave,

 

Brick wouldn't be a problem in the Chew Valley. As you say, there is plenty of stone, but there are some brick buildings of the appropriate age. The Clarke buildings on the nearby B&NS are mostly brick even though the predominant local material is stone (e.g. Brislington, Clutton, Midsomer Norton, etc, though Hallatrow is Stone.

 

The area that I am modelling, Camerton, is another branch off the B&NS to the east from Hallatrow. Again, most buildings are stone but Clarke used brick. Even today, the remaining brick bridges stand out as quite different from their surroundings.

 

Nick

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Hi Dave,

 

Brick wouldn't be a problem in the Chew Valley. As you say, there is plenty of stone, but there are some brick buildings of the appropriate age. The Clarke buildings on the nearby B&NS are mostly brick even though the predominant local material is stone (e.g. Brislington, Clutton, Midsomer Norton, etc, though Hallatrow is Stone.

 

The area that I am modelling, Camerton, is another branch off the B&NS to the east from Hallatrow. Again, most buildings are stone but Clarke used brick. Even today, the remaining brick bridges stand out as quite different from their surroundings.

 

Nick

Hi Nick, that's excellent news! I'm going to have to get some books about lines in the area and then try and find a town or village that wasn't served and could have had a line terminating there. Can you recommend any good books on the B&NS that I could start with? I'm sure Ive seen a Wild Swan book about the Camerton branch, but I could be wrong!

 

Dave

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Hi Dave,

 

For the B&NS, some detail on the Camerton branch, and early proposals for other local lines, the best start and widest coverage is Mike Vincent, Through Countryside and Coalfield, OPC, ISBN 0-96093-428-4. Then there is Vic Mitchell & Keith Smith, Frome to Bristol, Middleton Press, ISBN 1-873793-774 which has photos and plans of stations on both the B&NS and Camerton branch. For the latter, as you've seen, there is Colin Maggs & Gerry Beale The Camerton Branch, Wild Swan, ISBN 0-906867-258.

 

Nick

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Hi Dave,

 

For the B&NS, some detail on the Camerton branch, and early proposals for other local lines, the best start and widest coverage is Mike Vincent, Through Countryside and Coalfield, OPC, ISBN 0-96093-428-4. Then there is Vic Mitchell & Keith Smith, Frome to Bristol, Middleton Press, ISBN 1-873793-774 which has photos and plans of stations on both the B&NS and Camerton branch. For the latter, as you've seen, there is Colin Maggs & Gerry Beale The Camerton Branch, Wild Swan, ISBN 0-906867-258.

 

Nick

Thanks Nick, Just been on Amazon and treated myself to "Through Countryside and Coalfield" and "Frome to Bristol". Looking forward to a bit of "what iffing!"

 

Thanks again

 

Dave

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