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Trefeglwvs Road Cambrian Railways 12


Steam_Julie

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Hi

 

I had a frustrating weekend, attempting to paint a rectangle of MDF sky blue. In the last 6 months the two local art shops have gone bust, leaving us with no other option than buying paints from an internet supplier. The company sells a range of art products aimed at children, poster paints etc.

 

I purchased a bottle of white poster paint and mixed in a small quantity of blue artists acrylic paint, the colour in the pallet was good, it had the correct consistency, BUT when applied to the MDF it didn't stick!

 

Using a range of art techniques including adding PVA to the paint didn't help either. A friend came to see me yesterday, and he subsequently lent me some acrylic paint from a well know art supplier and that worked as I expected, and thus this posting has finally happened.

 

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Besides my fight with the paint, I have also pained the wooden baulks of the stream bridge, added the stone to the bridge supports, and clad the Mill Farm barn and finally added the stream surface in the area upstream of the weir.

 

blogentry-20065-0-22894600-1381247316.jpg

 

Have you also noticed how it happens, you have your trains operating smoothly over your layout, and as soon as a camera is pointed toward them they come off all the time. Well that happened too when I was taking these pictures. I believe this is an application of Murphy's Law, if it can go wrong, then it will.

 

blogentry-20065-0-87167400-1381250393.jpg

 

Below is a short movie of a train from Van entering the scenic section. This video was taken from the normal viewing position of the layout. The join between the main backscene and the fiddleyard one is designed not visible from the this position, but due to the need to place train cassettes in position to access the number 1 fiddleyard track, it is visible from positions to the right of it.

 

blogentry-20065-0-32113100-1381247314.gif

 

Sorry for the repeating of the video, this is a function of RMWeb and GIF animations.

 

With a little more attention to the colours and lighting used the join between the backscene and the become near invisible.

 

Julie

 

PS Previous entries in this blog can be found at

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1394-steam-julies-layout-blog/

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The use of the coloured fiddleyard backscene works on this layout because of the sharp approach curve, which are sub radius 1.

 

Julie

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I find the 'tester' pots of household paints very handy for this sort of thing.  Farrow & Ball do a wide range of colours in good opaque and tough paint - find them at Homebase etc.

 

Afraid I have no expertise on building weirs but, perhaps, a piece of translucent polythene to make the main curve of the flow, backed with some crinkled aluminium foil might produce the effect, especially if lit by an LED from below.  Just a thought - I haven't actually tried it.

 

Mike

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One of the most difficult tasks I have found in modelling is sticking two different types of plastic together. I have found that a thin piece of styrene sheet acts as a buffer, and different adhesives an be used on each side, provided that they don't attack it.

 

You might find this a useful technique when you start working on the weir, when you will require to stick styrene to the surface of the perspex that you have used for the water surface.
 

Lisa

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I will be visiting Mid Wales, tomorrow Thursday and time permitting I will take some photographs of the mountains in the area, to use when producing the backscene. These images will the be printed out using a inkjet printer and then glued onto the fixed backscene. I intend to extend this with a extension piece when the layout used.

 

Julie

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Sorry to hear about your problems with the backscene, I must admit I use tester pots a lot from the local DIY stores as they are very reasonable and can be used for many other modelling jobs.

 

I always tend to use vry thin fine grain plywood for backscenes as I find the paint sticks to this a lot better, but the experiments I have made with MDF have worked well especially if you gently rub the surface with some fine sandpaper to remove a substance that is sometimes sprayed on the sheets at the production mill.

 

I was given this tip by my local wood merchant

 

Keep up the good work, its looking good

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